!
Mountain.RU
Mountain.RU

newsclimbski & snowboardadventurephotossearch

russian

Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Climb >

First ascent of the Western face K2 peak 8611 m.
Expedition of the national Russian alpinist team.

Route of the national Russian alpinist team goes along the center of the Western face abrupt rocky bastion. No one has ever tried to ascend K2 peak by the Western face.

Sponsors:

Expedition news

(7.09.2007)
Press conference of the national Russian alpinist team takes place on September 10 in Moscow Center of the International Trade.

(3.09.2007)
Congratulation of the Odessa alpinist clubs director Mstislav Gorbenko. Dear friends-colleagues on K2!
Im glad of your FA on the Western face K2, especially as for the ascent without oxygen and porters.
Personal greetings to Viktor Volodin and Eugene Vinogradsky, Nicolay Chernuy.
With best regards, Mstislav Gorbenko,
Senior trainer of the national Russian alpinist team, K2 ascender in 1994 without oxygen.

(24.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m: Ascent is made!
August 24, 14-50 Pakistan time, 13-50 Moscow time.
All Russian alpinists safely descended to the base camp, FA of K2 Western face has been successfully finished!
On August 21-22 11 alpinists ascended to K2 peak. Russian flag is placed on 8611 m high.
Expedition leader Viktor Kozlov
Senior trainer of the expedition Nicolay Chernuy.

(23.08.2007)
K2 Western face: Descent from the peak.
22.08.2007 19:01 On K2 Western face August 22, 18-50 Pakistan time 17.00 Moscow time
Shabalin-Tuhvatullin- Volodin-Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik in the sixth camp.
Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky in the fifth camp.
Mariev and Popovich in the first camp.
Congratulations to everyone! Thanks for support!
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(22.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m: Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Pavel Shabalin on K2 peak
Summit! August 22 15-00
15-00 radio communication from the summit with Tuhvatullin!
15.00 Pakistan time, 14.00 Moscow time Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Pavel Shabalin on K2 peak!
Summit! August 22 12-10 Pakistan time Viktor Volodin, Gennady Kirievsky and Vitaliy Gorelik on K2 peak.
Information was obtained at 15-10 from Vinogradsky, at 12-10 Viktor Volodin, Gennady Kirievsky and Vitaliy Gorelik couldnt connect from the summit because an accumulator for their radio station has frozen.
Congratulations to everyone! Thanks for support!
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(22.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m: Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Pavel Shabalin on K2 peak Summit! August 22 11-50
11-50 radio communication from the summit with Vinogradsky!
11.50 Pakistan time, 10. 50 Moscow time Eugene Vinogradsky on 2!
Congratulations to everyone! Thanks for support!
22.08.2007 11:15 Summit!
11-10 radio communication from the summit with Sokolov!
11.10 Pakistan time, 10.10 Moscow time Gleb Sokolov on 2!
Congratulations to everyone! Thanks for support!
22.08.2007 11:00 Summit! August 22 10-45

(21.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m
21.08.2007 13:00 Summit!
12-50 radio communication from the summit with Mariev and Popovich!
12.50 Pakistan time, 11.50 Moscow time Andrey Mariev and Vadim Popovich on 2!
Congratulations to everyone! Thanks for support!
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(21.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m: A cloud is on the summit, minimum field of vision.
On Western face, August 21, radio communication 10-15
Shabalin-Tuhvatullin are in the tent of sevenths camp, 8400 m. Mariev-Popovich ascended from the seventh camp, for exploration of further ascent way. Volodin-Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are in the sixth camp, 8150 m.
A cloud is on the summit, minimum field of vision. Leader four and four Volodin-Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are waiting for weather improvement. Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky connected, they ascend to the sixth camp. Penzov descends from the first camp to ABC.
On Western face, August 21, radio communication 8-15
August 21 (Friday)
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich are in the seventh camp, 8400 m, waiting for weather improvement.
Four Volodin-Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik ascended from Camp 6, but now return to Camp 6 and wait for weather improvement. Today in the morning on K2 summit was cloud, minimum field of vision, wind speed on 8400 altitude is 50 km per hour.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky didnt connect firstly they may be now ascending the lines. Yesterday they gave one of two group radio stations to Penzov.
Penzov is descending to ABC, now he is between the second and first camps.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(21.08.2007)
First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m: the Seventh camp is placed on 8400 m
On Western face, August 20, radio communication 18-15
August 20 (Monday)
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich are in the seventh camp, 8400 m.
Volodin and three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik ascended to Camp 6.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky are in Camp 5.
Shamalo ascended to , where he was met by Chernuy.
Penzov ascended to Camp 3, he reported via additional radio communication at 20-00. Time of all the messages is Pakistan, one hour more then Moscow.
20.08.2007 16:24 On Western face, August 20, radio communication 16-15
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich ascended to about 8400 m, they are making place for tent, it will be Camp 7. Volodin and three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are ascending to Camp 6.
Penzov felt bad and began descending he is already lower than Camp 1.
20.08.2007 14:00 On Western face, August 20, radio communication 14-15
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich are ascending above Camp 6. Two Volodin-Penzov and three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are ascending to Camp 6.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky are in Camp 5.
Shemalo is descending, he is lower than Camp 2.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(20.08.2007)
2 Western face: vision improved
20.08.2007 12:00 On Western face, August 20, radio communication 12-15
Start ascending from Camp 6.
August 20 (Monday)
Vision improved, but wind sometimes rushes.
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich ascended from camp 6.
Two Volodin-Penzov and three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are ascending to Camp 6.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky ascended to Camp5.
Shamalo is descending.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(20.08.2007)

First Ascent of K2 Western face 8611 m.
On Western face, August 20, radio communication 8-15
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich left Camp 6 at 6 AM, was ascending for more than an hour, and then was to return to the tent of Camp 6 because of big cloud above, poor vision (no more than 50 m) and wind rushes. At Camp 6 the leading group is waiting for the weather improvement.
Two Volodin-Penzov and three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik are leaving Camp 5. Shamalo begins descending from Camp 5 according to recommendation of ascent-doctor Eugene Volodarsky
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky left Camp 4.
19.08.2007 16:15
On the Western face
Window appeared, but higher than 7000 m wind rushes sometimes happen.
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich (Shamalin is a leader) ascended to Camp 6, dug the tent of Camp 6 out of snow and treaded a path in the snow till the horizontal rocky zone. Four is staying for the night in Camp 6.
Three Volodin-Shamalo-Penzov (Volodin is a leader) ascended from Camp 4 to Camp 5.
Three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik (Sokolov is a leader) ascended from Camp 3 to Camp 5
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky ascended from Camp 2 to Camp 4.
18.08.2007 16:57 On the Western face
Three Shabalin- Tuhvatullin-Popovich (Shamalin is a leader) ascended from Camp 4 to Camp 5 to Andey Mariev.
Three Volodin-Shamalo-Penzov (Volodin is a leader) ascended from Camp 3 to Camp 4.
Three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik (Sokolov is a leader) ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 3.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky ascended from ABC to Camp 2. Night on August 18-19:
Four in Camp 5
Three in Camp 4
Three in Camp 3
Three in Camp 2
18.08.2007 7:07 On the Western face, August 17
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich (Shabalin is a leader) ascended from Camp 3 to Camp 4, the same day Mariev ascended to Camp 5.
Three Volodin-Shamalo-Penzov (Volodin is a leader) ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 3.
Three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik (Sokolov is a leader) ascended from ABC to Camp 1.
Three Totmyanin-Bolotov-Kirievsky ascended from BC to ABC.
All the groups are ascending, in hope of the window above the lines.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(15.08.2007)
K2 Western face: strong wind and snow on the route.
Three Sokolov-Vinogradsky-Gorelik today descended to .
Four Shabalin-Mariev-Tuhvatullin-Popovich still stay at 1.
Three Volodin-Shamalo-Penzov ascended to .
Weather: rain, snow and fog in the base camp. Strong wind and snow on the height.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(13.08.2007)
K2 Western face. Nicolay Totmyanin: Tired, of course, but eager to ascend.
Lesha, Gena and I today descended to BC. We havent ever walked in such bad weather on altitude higher than 7500 m. Tired, of course, but eager to ascend. Groups of Sokolov and Shabalin are ascending. Gleb is already in Camp 5
Base camp is a place where you can fully relax and feel safety. Summer ends warm and windless, or cold and wet, I dont know. Long lodgment far from the civilization provoke habituation to unusual surroundings, clothes, and even trekkers, passing through the base camp, are being interpreted as people from other world. The aim of my life now is ascending to the summit. Everything for it I have: health, acclimatization, current physical and psychological state, lines and camps on the route, a group of fighters, aimed to win. But I want not only to reach the summit, but also to descend. For the ascent we need good weather at least 3 days and nights (really we need about 8 days, if we start from BC, for sure and comfort).
Experience is a good thing information about what will never repeat again. I have ascended to 7000 many times in normal style 5-6 days with nights in camps, in ideal weather, slowly and sadly. Why sadly? Because its a drowsy boredom to ascent 300 m per day when you are capable for more. There were cases when I ascended to the summit from the BC and returned running during 1 day (Communism peak 7495 m, Han-Tengri 6995 m, Lenin peak 7134 m).
Feelings are spicy, and altitude influence is more intensive. In high-speed ascent weather factor is absent, you dont leave the camp if the weather is unstable.
Forthcoming fifth ascent I felt as ending one, that means ascent with reaching the summit for me and my group. Strong group of Bolotov ascended before us, they were able to place a push camp on about 8100 m and try to take the summit. Weather forecasts promised a window from 5 to 7, or from 7 to 9, or after 11. Bolotov ascended, and my group started from BC 2 days later, on August 2. The weather is bad wind and snow everywhere. Before the first camp Sasha Korobkov left Bolotov. We are ascending after Bolotov and Kirievsky. On August 5 they reach C5, and we ascended to C4. It was midday, the weather was not bad, and I decide to ascend to C5 to strengthen the first group. It is a difficult task, especially for group of 2, to take the tent, rabbler, mats, sleeping bags, food and gas for several days, tableware for C6, ropes, gear, to ascend 300 m high, to build flat area for the tent in safe place without wind. Promiced window didnt come. Group of 3 stayed in C5, two Volodin-Shamalo were in C4. We could descend with clear conscience because we have been ascending during 3 days in the weather when no one from other expedition leaves BC. The altitude of C5 is 7500 Communism peak altitude habitual for experienced ascenders, but you live there a couple of days and descend. We decided to live in C5 till the real weather improvement, and to ascend and install C6 on at least 8100 m, and push the summit, and descend. We ascended to 8500 and higher (altimeter showed 8550) and faced rocky wall, which could not be bypassed, and for pushing it we didnt have gear.
Fresh snow knee-deep, somewhere breast-deep and deeper, on the slope higher than 7800 m (abruptness of the snow slope was from 30 to 60 degrees!), four days of forced wait in the camp on 7500 m with wind 18-25 meters per second and uncertainty of the remaining part of the ascent didnt let the group to reach the summit.
There are people in the expedition who can breathe nothing, doing hard work and remaining clear-minded in constant danger of break on the slope.
Wait for the news.
Nicolay Totmyanin

(12.08.2007)
Changed: 13.08.2007
Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky descended to ABC.
11.08.2007 19:00
Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky descended to ABC. Tomorrow they will return to BC.
Gleb Sokolov, Eugene Vinogradsky and Vitaly Gorelik have now ascended to C4. Tomorrow they are going to ascend to C5.
Pavel Shabalin, Andrew Mariev, Ilyas Tuhvatullin, Vadim Popovich are starting tomorrow early in the morning from BC.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(12.08.2007)

Changed: 13.08.2007
Ilyas Tuhvatullin: She was called Humo
I hoped that Janna legend, as American press called the guys, would solve at last the problem of K2. And would take off our weight of collective responsibility for the fate of our expedition, turning the ascent of our group into our own occupation. But it seemed that fate wants to try everyone fully. Entrapping the guys near the summit, the Mountain exposed its plans for us: the final stage of our ascent would not be less complicated than everything before. The weather forecast promises a window from August 17 to 19. Now its our turn to try. This is our sixth try to ascend.
An analogy with a poem of Alisher Navooi birds language comes to mind. Its content is following: once birds decided to fly to God, but no one knew the way, though several tried to lead this flight, but they failed. Then the birds asked the magic bird named Humo. It was all from bronze, even feathers. It knew the way for sure. After long persuasion it agreed to lead the birds to their aim. But it told that only strongest and especially those who believe in success would reach the end. Their way lay through several rooms, where they met different trials and tribulations: room of fire, room of cold, room of countless riches, room of darkness etc. Several burned their wings, several didnt withstand the cold. But strongest and luckiest birds entered the last room and glanced back, and saw something that made them think deeply and reconsider all they knew before
Tomorrow our group starts its next journey. Our group opens the sixth round of the ascent. Having passed 5 rounds of trials and tribulations, the expedition reached the sixth room
Ilyas

(11.08.2007)
Changed: 13.08.2007
Three descended to C6
Communication at 18-30 (local time): Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky descended to C6. It will be dark in 20 minutes.
Group of Gleb Sokolov ascended to C3. Tomorrow they will ascend to 4 or 5 depending on health.
10.08.2007 18:00

(10.08.2007)
Changed: 11.08.2007
K2 Western face. Three is descending they are planning to make a night in C6. Very tired.
10.08.2007 16:00
According to communication with Bolotov: Three is descending they are planning to make a night in C6. Very tired.
10.08.2007 14:00
Only 100 m left till the summit, but a difficult rock became a barrier on the way.
Having lost a lot of strength during 4 days and nights of waiting for the weather in C5, three of the strongest alpinists - Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky began the ascent to the summit yesterday. They placed tent of C6 on the altitude more than 8000 m.
Today from 5 AM the three has ploughed the waist-deep, sometimes breast-deep snow and reached 8550 m, but faced a difficult rock. Their tries to bypass it were unsuccessful there are vertical slopes on both sides, and lack of special gear made impossible climbing it head-on.
Guys are tired because of too long lodgment on big altitude. They began to descend.
It left only 100 m from the foot of the rock to the summit
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(10.08.2007)
Changed: 11.08.2007
K2 Western face. Three is moving to the summit.
Bolotovs group is moving to the summit. Met a serious rock, are looking for a bypass.
The weather is fine. Kirievskys altimeter shows 8550 m (in good weather reading can be overestimated about in 50 m).
10.08.2007 12:20

(10.08.2007)

Changed: 11.08.2007
Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky left C6 at 5 AM and went to the direction of summit.
Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky left C6 at 5 AM and went to the direction of summit. The weather is fine. But there is waist-deep, sometimes breast-deep snow.
Nicolay Chernuy and Sergey Buchkovsky ascended to ABC in case of broadcast. But now the base has direct connection with Bolotov. Group of Sokolov starts ascent to C2.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.
10.08.2007 9:40
Im afraid of putting the evil eye on this, but it seems our leading three will climb through this very window which we were waiting for a long time.
Today guys, having been waiting for 4 days and nights in C5, at last saw wind decay and, having passed 12 fixed ropes, entered the snowy area that very one leading to the summit.
Push starts unusually low, it can last several days. These are the minuses. But there are also the pluses. Wind decays gradually, the guys have experience of ascending Everest without oxygen. Snow turned out unexpectedly deep. During 5 hours our fighters were beating the path from the end of fixed lines. They moved slowly, it was a result of the nights in the upper camp. On connection sessions it was seen how difficult it was.
At last at 5 PM the guys stopped and installed C6. It is a small tent solo plus, estimated for 3.
They told they felt all right, they are cooking tea and something to eat.
Today they have been moving along the right rocks and stopped 200 m lower than the cross rocky barrier.
Tomorrow the guys are going to push the summit.
Ilyas
09.08.2007 19:24

(10.08.2007)
Changed: 11.08.2007
K2 Western face. Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky go to the summit.
09.08.2007 15:40
Now it is a very important moment for our expedition. We have wait for the window, it is small, but we must use it on 100 percent.
Three ascenders - Alexy Bolotov, Nicolay Totmyanin and Gennady Kirievsky have been waiting for the window during 4 days in C5, on 7500 m. It was a regular connection between C5 and BC, the alpinists told they are ok.
Yesterday it was yet impossible to start, because of the snow and especially strong wind.
Today early in the morning three has left C5 and passed 12 ropes, fixed in advance. Then, before midday, they have broken from the lines and continued to move to the summit. The group has small tent solo+, 2 rugs, stove, gas, sleeping bags all minimum, but enough for surviving.
Connection with the group is every 2 hours. It is impossible to communicate them directly, so the group Gleb Sokolov, Eugene Vinogradsky and Vitaly Gorelik which is in C1 broadcast them.
The group is in good state. The group of Sokolov is planning to ascent to C3 tomorrow.
Viktor Kozlov, expedition leader.

(8.08.2007)
Changed: 9.08.2007
K2 Western face. Ilyas Tuhvatullin: our expedition is also a world of waiting.
07.08.2007 19:36
Our expedition is also a world of waiting. Now, when we have come to the end step, waiting is especially tiresome and sometimes intolerable. The worst thing is that we cant change anything.
The matter is that for more than a week there is bad weather in our region. In BC it looks quite peacefully: snow silently falls, or it is drizzling and SW wind blows, that very wind, which brings precipitation. Atmosphere pressure is very low. We have searched the weather forecasts on many sites: nothing comforting till the second decade.
If windows appear, they are so small that it is impossible to fit in it. Now two groups 3 in C5, 2 in C4 3 days are waiting for the window promised by hydrometer.
Wind is blowing with 60 km per hour speed, the tent is flapping, and the guys cant sleep, cooking turns into a problem, because one needs to go out for snow (as water), not minding such a specific problem as toilet You are laying for the whole days in the tent, moveless, with closed eyes, trying not to think and wait, like Buddha.
The most difficult is the thing that it is unknown how long will it take. But every morning we look in the sky and wait for changes, it cant last forever
Ilyas

(6.08.2007)
Evacuation from BC
04.08.07 At 9 AM (Pakistan time) a helicopter took Alexander Korobkov who fell ill and accompanying him Dmitry Komarov from BC to Skarda.
On August 1 Alexander Korobkov felt pain in his foot and descended from ABC to BC with groups of Sokolov and Shabalin. In the same day in BC the expedition doctor Sergey Buchkovsky rendered medical aid to Alexander Korobkov and concluded: obligatory evacuation and treatment in a clinic. On August 2-3 helicopter couldnt take the ill because of the weather.
Today, on August 4, if the weather in Skardu is fine, Alexander and Dmitry fly from Skardu to Islamabad. In the airport of Islamabad Alexander Korobkov will be taken to the clinic. Then by the nearest flight he will be taken to Moscow together with his companion.
Our expedition thanks the insurance company Osnova for their efficient help.
The ascent on the Western face continues, two Bolotov-Kirievsky ascends fron C3, three Bolotov, Totmyanin and Kirievsky fron C2. From Sunday- Monday the forecast promises good weather for 3 days!

(3.08.2007)
K2 Western face. July 27 August 3.
Strong wind and snow in C1. Push is postponed.
27.07.07 The group of Shabalin, Cherny and Buchkovsky went from BC to ABC. The group of Shabalin ascended to C1 the same day. The group of Sokolov ascended from C2 to C3.
28.07.07 The group of Shabalin ascended from C1 to C3. The group of Sokolov ascended from C3 to C4.
29.07.07 The group of Sokolov ascended from C4 to C5 and fixed 1.5 ropes. The group of Shabalin ascended to C4. Mariev ascended from C4 to C5 and joined Sokolovs group.
30.07.07 Mariev and Gorelik fixed 3.5 ropes on the bastion rocks and 3 ropes on the snowy slope. Sokolov, Vinogradsky, Popovich, Tuhvatullin and Shabalin made a cargo trip. The group of Shabalin installs the second tent together with the group of Sokolov in C5.
Bastion is passed!
31.07.07 The weather became bad. Strong wind force both groups to descend to ABC. The group of Bolotov went from BC to ABC.
01.08.07 Two Bolotov-Kirievsky ascended to C1. Korobkov felt pain in his foot and descended to BC together with the groups of Sokolov and Shabalin.
02.08.07 The group of Totmyanin ascended fron BC to ABC. The group of Bolotov waits in C1 for the end of hard snowfall.
03.08.07 The group of Totmyanin ascends from ABC. Two Bolotov-Kirievsky ascends from C1.
Viktor Kozlov, Pavel Shabalin.
03.08.2007 9:28

(30.07.2007)
K2 Western face. Bastion is passed!
July 30 2007 Bastion is passed! But the face continues. ..
Now two groups are working upwards: three of Sokolov and four of Shabalin. Yesterday at 16.00 they reached the end of fixed lines and had time to use 1.5 ropes more. Today 6.5 ropes more have been fixed. The expedition came to the snowy area. Bastion is passed! But the face continues in form of snow, ice, rocks. Tomorrow ascenders will try to go up, and to install C6 in some safe place under the rocks.
15-30, Viktor Kozlov from BC.
So far there is some time to describe our life. A long period of uncertainty came (ice period, to be more precise period of snowfall), all the groups gathered in BC. Someone is reading someone is taking a steam bath, other play chess. Everything like in usual expedition. But whatever we do, we feel anxious. Too little remains till the beginning of winter. Will we have time? The wall is practically passed several difficult ropes remain, and then snow fields. We want to believe that it will be easier, but now we still remain lower than cherished 8000 m. Tomorrow early in the morning our group goes up to fix those very several ropes upper than C5. It isnt a difficult tusk, but the weather is not expected to be fine
Only one small chance remains: to jump into small window between Monday and Wednesday.
So far there is some time to describe our life. We are resting in BC for 6 days. The first day is bath. This day we are able not to think about the Mountain. Our cooks do their best these days to feed us. We cant keep our diet, its very hard. Being aware about this, our wise doctor has already put needed tablets, which will reduce our sufferings, on the table. In the evening one calls his relatives to say that everything is all right.
Day second. It is a day of laundering. This isnt easy in our conditions. Water is here is from a glacier, it is distilled. Washing powder foams well, but practically dont wash off. It is also impossible to keep hands in the water for a long time skin becomes very dry. The problem of dry air is also serious high in the mountains. The most unpleasant consequence is that your throat turns into burning hot frying pan and every swallow is a torture. Then cough comes, which doesnt give a moment's peace to anyone.
In the evening, after supper, we install a small cinema in the dining room: open note book, connect acoustic systems and merge into watching. It can seem banal, but our most popular movie is White Sun of the Desert. We go to bed quite early at 21 PM. I think it is connected with nature rhythm and the Sun. We wake up also early, at 6 AM, a bit after the Sun.
Day third. I feel that time doesnt stand, and memory gradually removes the difficulties of the previous ascent. At breakfast I listen to radio communication. Trying to divert my attention away, I take a book and try to read. After an hour I understand that everything is in vain. The Mountain requires attention. I go out the tent.
K2 rises over the area and over me, engrossing attention. But we have one occupation which helps to become oblivious. The matter is that we live on a glacier. And under the Sun influence the glacier melts and sinks, and our tents gradually come up and turn out to be on a pedestal, because ice melts slower under the tents. From time to time we need to transfer our tents on the new place, and this place is needed to be prepared.
Trekkers sometimes go near our camp, reminding that there is somewhere big Earth with different interests and problems. They come to us, surprised by the size of our camp, and sincerely wish us good luck. It charges, and we dont want to upset these unknown guys.
Next day I start by watching to the valley direction if there are any clouds. It seems to be clear. It gives hope. Then I move my glance to our Russian flag. It proudly flies over the glacier, showing the wind direction. The wind is blowing to the valley. Its good. A nice day will be. Im interested in everything that is connected with the weather. Soon our ascent will start. I have my breakfast with appetite and understand that I am ready to ascent. But its a deceptive impression. I need to be patient. This day I dont miss any radio connection. I want the upper group to do their aim.
In our BC there is a place where miracles happen. No, it isnt a kitchen, it is a tent where our photo and video masters work, regularly sending on the big Earth photo reports about expedition life. All our guys regularly disappear in this tent, watching the material and checking their mail. It is an interesting effect on photos many episodes seem to be more interesting than in reality. Joking, we call our masters bohemia and respect them for helping to see unusual in usual.
Day fifth is fully dedicated to the preparation to our ascent. There are no trifles in it. If you believe yourself to be a professional, you do automatically a lot, not overworking your mind. Mind is busy with other things it is there, above, helps you to get ready for the next round. This is a very important part of preparation.
Ilyas.

(27.07.2007)

News of the team K2 (Western face): The group of Sokolov, if the weather permits, ascends in C3.
25.07.07 The group of Sokolov ascended with cargo from ABC to C1 and renewed the camp.
26.07.07 The group of Sokolov ascended with cargo from C1 to C2.
27.07.07 The group of Shabalin, Chernuy and Buchkovsky came from BC to ABC. The group of Sokolov, if the weather permits, ascends in C3.

(26.07.2007)
FA of 2 Western face: Still wind and snow on the route
25.07.2007
BC, call of Vladimir Kupcov:
Everything is all right. In BC it is sunny. But it is wind and snow on the route. The group of Sokolov ascends. On the day after tomorrow The group of Shabalin will leave BC.
The group of Totmyanin couldnt do anything on last ascent because of the hard storm.
25.07.2007
Today the support group with great pity left BC. The weather presented magnificent views of surrounding mountains we hope, not for a moment.
24.07.2007
On July 23 a welcome support group ascended to BC of Russian national team:
Viktor Pleskachevsky, leader of the expedition organizing committee, master of sports
Alexander Glushkovsky expedition sponsor, general director of RedFox company, master of sports of international grade.
Pavel Polenov - expedition sponsor, general director of Osnova insurance company
Alexander Volosov worker of multifrequency network.
Mark Bashmakov academician of the Russian education academy
Anatoly Moshnikov - Honoured Master of Sports of USSR
22.07.2007
BC, call from Pavel Shabalin:
Hello! We are in the base. C5 has been placed on the route 3 days ago by the group of Bolotov on the place where Sokolov and Vinogradsky finished fixing lines up. It is on about 7500 m (I cant say more accurately because we really have grate difference in readings. I give number according to Marievs altimeter). Our ascent turned to be a rescue- and-cargo one. We brought 7 ropes, a tent, dural bolts, food, gas, then 2 more ropes etc. to C5. The group of Bolotov installed C5. Then they passed 1.5 ropes. Once more an overhang, AID, and the end isnt seen. Yesterday they couldnt do anything because of the weather. Today they are descending. Totmyanin with guys is ascending. If it will be heavy storm, they will sit in C3 it is a comfort camp. If it will be possible, they will ascend till the end of the lines and do something more. Tomorrow the group of Gleb is leaving BC. Chernuy with (havent heard with whom E.L.) have been ascending to the pass where the upper section of the route is seen. They made a photo. Soon we will come to the snofy field..
21.07.2007
On July 20 Bitaly Ivanov and his companion Vladimir Kochurov arrived at Moscow. In one of the clinics Bitaly Ivanov will have a prophylactic treatment.
The groups of Bolotov and Totmyanin are working on the wall.

(19.07.2007)

2 Western face. A window has appeared today. Bitaly Ivanov fell ill and was evacuated on big Earth. Work on the route above C4 continues.
15.07.07 Bad weather continues since June 12: today heavy snowfall and wind is on all the altitudes. The group of Bolotov ascended from BC to ABC. The group of Shabalin is in C2. The group of Sokolov began to descend from C4. At 12 Vinogradsky told to BC that Bitaly Ivanov is going bad and he cant descend without outside assistance, and all the group is descending to C3.
During the remaining time till 22 h groups of Shabalin and Sokolov delivered medical oxygen from C1 to C3 for the ill and medical aid was given to him in the tent of C3.
16.07.07 In bad weather conditions the group of Sokolov continued to descend and in the evening they were in ABC. Vitaly Ivanovs condition became worse. The expedition doctor and the senior trainer ascended from BC to ABC. The doctor watched the ill, made a preliminary diagnosis and made medical treatment.
7.07.07 In the morning two Totmyanin and Shemalo left BC to help transporting Ivanov. The ill was transported on a sledge by plain part of the glacier, by broken ground and moraine he went with help of other alpinists. At 14 h he was in BC. According to medical decision he will be evacuated on the big Earth.
The group of Bolotov ascended from C1 to C2, Shabalin, Tuhvatullin and Popovich ascended from C2 to C4, Mariev ascended from C1 to C3.
18.07.07 The weather is ideal. At 8 AM Vitaly Ivanov with hic companion Vladimir Kochurov were sent to Skarda.
The group of Shabalin is working above C4, The group of Bolotov is ascending from C2 to C3.
In spite of 6 days of bad weather from July 12 to 17, our team has saved from snow and strong wind all the tents in upper camps, and transferred gear from lower camps to upper ones, and what is the most important, helped Vitaly Ivanov who fell ill.
The expedition continues the ascent by the Western face of K2 and thanks all for the support on the sites forum.
The expedition thanks insurance company Osnova for its timely help in evacuation of the ill from BC to the big Earth.
Viktor Kozlov, Nicolay Totmyanin
All photos (number: 9)

(16.07.2007)
2 Western face. The snowfall continues. Groups have spread among the camps.
2 Western face from July 08 to 14.
08.07.07 All night and day long the snow falls. The group of Bolotov descended for rest to BC. The group of Sokolov remained in ABC. The group of Totmyanin works upwards of C4, but because of strong dusty avalanche makes only cargo trips to the end of the lines.
09.07.07 The weather is perfect. The group of Sokolov ascended from ABC to C2. The group of Totmyanin fixed 3 ropes and prepared an area for transferring C4 upwards.
10.07.07 The group of Sokolov ascended from C2 to C3, then two Sokolov-Gorelik descended to C2 for cargo. The group of Totmyanin transferred C4 on 6 ropes higher and fixed one rope of lines. Volodin began to descend his throat was ill.
11.07.07 The group of Shabalin ascended from BC to ABC. The group of Sokolov ascended to C4. The group of Totmyanin fixed 3 ropes of lines and descended for night to C2.
12.07.07 The group of Shabalin ascended from ABC to C1. The group of totmyanin descended to BC for rest. The group of Sokolov fixed 2 ropes of lines.
13.07.07 The weather has become worse it is cloudy, snowy and windy. The group of Sokolov is in C4, from time to time raking out snow between the tent and slope. The group of Shabalin is ascending from C1 to C2.
14.07.07 The snowfall continues. Two Shabalin-Tuhvatullin remain in C2, two Mariev and Popovich are ascending with cargo from 2 to C3 and are digging the tent of C3 out of snow. The group of Sokolov remains in C4.
Viktor Kozlov, Nicolay Totmyanin

(13.07.2007)

K2 Sergey Bogomolov: Second group has made the route till 5700
12.07.07
Second group has made the route till 5700, installed there C1 and returned to ABC. First group is in BC, preparing to ascend.
All photos (number: 2)

(12.07.2007)
2 Western face from July 01 to 08.
01.07.07 Two Mariev-Tuhvatullin fixed 3.5 ropes and marked the place for C4 (7200 m). Two Shabalin-Popovich made a cargo trip from C1 to C2. The group of Bolotov ascended to C1.
02.07.07 The group of Shabalin brought the cargo and installed the tent Solo+ in C4. Two Mariev-Tuhvatullin are staying for night in C4, Shabalin-Popovich in C3. The group of Bolotov ascended to C2.
03.07.07 In the evening The group of Shabalin descended to C1. The group of Bolotov ascended to C3.
04.07. The group of Bolotov ascended to C4 and installed big tent Cave 6 for the whole group. The group of Shabalin descended to BC for rest. The group of Totmyanin ascended to ABC.
05.07.07 The group of Bolotov fixed 2 ropes to the right from the tent. The group of Totmyanin ascended from ABC to C2.
06.07.07 Two Kirievsky-Korobkov fixed up 2 ropes. The group of Totmyanin ascended to C3. Totmyanin and Shemalo made a cargo trip to C4.
07.07.07 Two Bolotov-Korobkov up 3 ropes and descended to ABC. The group of Totmyanin ascended to C4. The group of Sokolov, Chernuy and Buchkovsky ascended to ABC.
08.07.07 The group of Bolotov descended to BC for rest.
Viktor Kozlov, Aleksey Bolotov, Pavel Shabalin
July 8, 18-00

(9.07.2007)
2 Western face: The group of Bolotov returned to BC.

(6.07.2007)

2. Commemorative signs were placed to the dead in avalanche on August 13 2006.
On July 2 to BC under K2 came friends and relatives of Jury Uteshev, Peter Kuznetcov, Alexander Foyght, and Arcady Kuvakin, dead in the avalanche on August 13 2006.
Commemorative signs were placed on the rock.

(2.07.2007)
2 Western face
The weather becomes better. The group of Shabalin is in C3 and prepares to ascend. Ahead are the rocks of the central part of the bastion.
25.06.07 The group of Totmyanin changed the group of Bolotov and continued to work higher C2: two TotmyaninShemalo fixed up 3 lines and entered the snowy ledge, where they could make an area for the tent Solo+, Volodin and Komarov made a cargo trip from C2. Three stayed for night in C3, Komarov descended to C2. The group of Sokolov ascended with cargo from ABC to C1.
26.06.07 Two Volodin-Shemalo passed 3 pitches above C3, Totmyanin and Komarov made a cargo trip from C2 to C3. Three spent a night in C3, Komarov descended to C2, where the leading two of the next group was located: Sokolov, Gorelik.
27.06.07 The group of Totmyanin passed one more pitch upwards, transferred gear and ropes to the highest point of the lines and descended to ABC. Two Sokolov-Gorelik ascended with cargo from C2 to C3 and , transferred gear to the upper lines and stayed for night in C3. Two Vinogradsky-Ivanov made a cargo trip from C1 to C2.
28.06.07 Two Sokolov-Gorelik passed 1 pitch upwards and descended to C3. Two Vinogradsky-Ivanov put cargo from C2 to C3 and spent night in C3. The group of Totmyanin descended to BC for rest. The group of Shabalin ascended from BC to C1. the weather became worse to the evening. In BC it was rainy, in ABC and higher the snowfall began with strong wind.
29.06.07 The group of Sokolov descended to ABC. The group of Shabalin, despite the bad weather, ascended to C2.
30.06.07 The weather began to improve: the snowfall stopped, clouds reduced. The group of Shabalin ascended to C3, widened the area and placed more capacious tent for 6 persons.
Two Vinogradsky-Ivanov, together with the senior trainer and doctor descended to BC. Two Sokolov-Gorelik remained in ABC for security of the leading group. Tomorrow, if the weather remains good, the group of Shabalin continues the work as for the rout breaking. The group of Bolotov will go to ABC.
After the first abrupt area of bastion rocks, which can be compared with Jannu bastions as for their psychological pressure, easier rocks of the central part of the bastion higher than 7000 m begin. Here not only climbing skills are needed, but also ability to survive in low temperature and high altitude. We hope that the weather and relief will allow free climbing. The rock is solid, with many long vertical cracks filled with ice.
Viktor Kozlov, Nicolay Totmyanin.
30.06.2007 17:37 Many new photos from Volodya Kupcov.
On July 1 a team from St. Petersburg who are planning an ascent on Broad peak came to our team.

(26.06.2007)
2 Western face. Bastion. Its lower part.
June 25 2007 Evening (20-00).
Aleksey Bolotov, Alexander Korobkov and Sergey Penzov descended to BC: We have worked 6 days. The foot of the bastion is very difficult. We had to pass an overhanging section, and it isnt a cornice, but gentle overhang about 3 m. It was passed by Alexander Korobkov. Here there are a lot of such difficult sections, but they are not everywhere, like on Jannu, they alternate with ledges. After a ledge there is an overhang once again. It is a very difficult wall. 5-6 ropes from the passed ones are very abrupt.
A friend of Ukrainian production cracked, and I flied 4 meters. I didnt injure. Today Nicolay Totmyanin has passed 2.5 ropes and installed C3 (7150 m). It is a really small tent, only to spend night, (C2 is too far to descend), and to start climbing early in the morning.

(25.06.2007)

2 Western face: Two Bolotov-Korobkov reached 7000 m
News of 3 last expedition days:
22.06.07 Two Bolotov-Kirievsky fixed two ropes (AID) in the vertical corner. Two Penzov-Korobkov made a cargo trip from C1 to C2. The group of Totmyanin and Chernuy made a cargo trip from ABC to C1.The group of Shabalin descended to BC for rest.
23.06.07 Two Korobkov-Bolotov fixed overhang rope (AID). Kirievsky straightened lines above C2. The group of Totmyanin and Penzov made a cargo trip from C1 to C2.
Nights: The group of Bolotov in C2, The group of Totmyanin in C1.
24.06.07 Two Korobkov-Bolotov fixed 1.5 ropes and reached 7000 m. Penzov transferred gear from C2 upwards. All of them descended to ABC for night. Kirievsky and Chernuy descended to BC for rest. The group of Totmyanin put cargo to C2 and remained there for night. The group of Sokolov came from BC to ABC.

(25.06.2007)

2 Western face. Photogallery
All photos (number: 20)

(22.06.2007)

Changed: 23.06.2007
2 Western face: Shabalins grandson was born this day!
22.06.2007 18:35
The group of Shabalin has recently descended to BC. The happy grandfather told the news from the wall: Our ascent partly fell to bad weather. On July 19 we made a cargo trip, transferred C1 to 6200. The day before yesterday, on June 20, the weather improved, and Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Andrey Mariev fixed 5 ropes. Yesterday they already worked with the group of Bolotov which made a cargo trip. Fixed one more rope, found place for C2. Descended on 6200 m.
Bolotov and Kirievsky spent night in C2 (6750, 1 tent), and today fixed 2 more ropes (80 m).
The part of the bastion beginning is very abrupt, with overhangs. On the common opinion, this wall is like a mix of the Everest and Jannu the wall on the big altitude, and the rocks are very abrupt.
Totmyanin and Shemalo today are making a cargo trip. The group of Bolotov with its full complement stays for night in C2.
Tomorrow the group of Bolotov will continue the work and then descend, and their place will occupy the group of Totmyanin. The group of Sokolov will ascend to C1 and will bring cargo for them.
The snow doesnt keep on the wall. Temperature regime here is phenomenal: -13 in the night, in the day my thermometer shows +38, Penzovs one - +49. It is on 6200. Its very hard under the direct sunshine. On 6800 it is much better wind blows.
In ABC from 12 AM to 15.30 it is heat. A scorching heat. But below, on the glacier, we go only in snowshoes. The couloir on the left is very dangerous.

(22.06.2007)
2 Western face: C2 was installed on 6750 m.
C2 was installed on 6750 m, fours of Shabalin and Bolotov are working above.
Viktor Kozlovs ring from BC (8-30):
The weather improved till June 20.
Evening communication, June 21 18-00:
Fours of Shabalin and Bolotov are working above. C1 was transferred upwards now it is on 6200 m. C2 is installed on 6750 m. On the bastion lines are fixed up to 6830 m.
Today early in the morning four of Totmyanin ascended from ABC they change four of Shabalin on the bastion.
All photos (number: 9)

(19.06.2007)

2 Western face: the weather is improving. Work on 2 Western face bastion has been started.
The weather is improving. Four of Shabalin came upwards from BC on June 17 to start work on 2 Western face bastion.
Viktor Kozlovs call from BC of 2 (10-00):
The group of Shabalin ascended from BC on June 17. Today, on June 18, the group of Bolotov is going upwards.
Some redistribution of ascenders in the groups happened in the team:
The group of Shabalin remained unchanged (Ilyas Tuhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Vadim Popovich).
The group of Sokolov is also in previous membership: Eugene Vinogradsky Vinogradsky, Vitaly Gorelik, Vitaly Ivanov.
The group of Bolotov (Gennady Kirievsky, Alexander Korobkov, Sergey Penzov).
The group of Totmyanin (Valery Shamalo, Viktor Volodin, Dmitry Komarov).

(15.06.2007)
2 Western face: C1 was installed on 6000 m.
C1 was installed on 6000 m, bergshrund was passed, the rock is caught. Altitude is 6500 m. Nicolay Totmyanin told after descending to BC:
We have recently descended here. Valery Shamalo and I started to ascend from the upper part of the icefall on the day before yesterday, reached the bergshrund and crossed it, passed 6 pitches and caught the wall. On the wall there is ice covered with snow. Further the bastion starts.
There were four of us in the group - Valery Shamalo and I fixed lines up, Viktor Volodin and Sergey Penzov brought the ropes.
Yesterday we ascended from BC to ABC (which is on 5600 m), worked 1 day, spend a night. Today we have made a one more cargo trip upwards and descended here.
The bergshrund is big, but in one section it is luckily covered with grey snow, so we passed it without problems.
The wall is very abrupt one has to throw back his head. And it is obvious that it remains the same, isnt sloping. Therefore it is absolutely safe, no flying stones, even no traces, clear rock, only streamlets.
The wall exposition is such, that from 8-9 AM all day long it is sunlit from the foot to the top.
We are working only in underwear. But situation changes, you get into the shadow and it becomes very cold. So far we are experimenting with clothes.
We are almost healthy, have a cough, of course, - the air is very dry. But when we descend, doctor treats us.
In common, we are still working in half of power, acclimatizing hasnt been finished, altitude gives its results, cargo trips are very hard, and it is very hot on the wall.
The weather is fine. The group of Sokolov today has ascended with cargo till the end of our fixed lines and has fixed 2 more ropes. Tomorrow the group of Shabalin is going to ascend from BC.
ABC is on 5600 m
C1 (for convenience, we are going to search a better place, now it is on the first step of the glacier) 6000 m.
All photos (number: 1)

(12.06.2007)
2 Western face news:
On June 10, at 6 PM radio connection, the leading group told that first 2 tents of ABC had been installed. 6 persons will spend night in the camp: Pavel Shabalin, Ilyas Tuhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Gennady Kirievsky, Alexander Korobkov, Vadim Popovich.

(8.06.2007)
2 Western face: the team reached BC
The team reached BC the first expedition step was finished. 6 ascenders came to Savoy glacier and ascended till Japanese places for camp, marking the way. Ring of Viktor Kozlov from BC (16.50)
Yesterday we came to BC. The weather is rather good today is much better. Early in the morning we started to ascend. We installed a big antenna, made connection through BGAM.

(4.06.2007)

2 Western face: the team enters Baltoro glacier. Askole was left on May 31. It is problem with porters.
02.06.2007
Ring of Viktor Kozlov, 12.12: On May 30 we moved by jeeps from Skardu to Askole. On May 31 we went from Askole by path. We found only 360 porters, and 170 more we needed. Nicolay stayed to solve this problem. One night was in Julu, now we are in Payu. Tomorrow moving to Urdukas.
31.05.2007
Today the team must have a very intensive and responsible day. In Askole all the weight must be divided between the porters. In Pakistan the maximum weight for a porter is 20 kg, thats why everything is weighted in presence of the porters leader.
www.johnthemap.co.uk

(31.05.2007)

K2: look to the map where our guys are going? This is a section between Skardu and Askole.
All photos (number: 2)

(31.05.2007)

Photos of the research 2005 from Islamabad to Askole.
Authors: V. Elagin, V. Kozlov, P. Kuznetcov, P. Shabalin.
All photos (number: 22)

(29.05.2007)
2 Western face:
Ring of Viktor Kozlov: We are in Skardu, packing cargo. Have already sent 3 jeeps to Askole. Leave in Konkordia hotel here we stayed on researches.

Viktor Kozlov, Nicolay Totmyanin, Ashraf
Aman, Vitaly Gorelik and Naykham Karim


(27.05.2007)

Changed: 28.05.2007
2 Western face news: the team has left Islamabad.
Ring of Viktor Kozlov:
It was a caravan of 5 buses and a truck. The road will take about 13 hours, night we are going to spend in Chilas village.
25.05.2007 A solemn presentation of the permit for K2 ascent was made to the Russian team.
All photos (number: 3)

(24.05.2007)

2 Western face: Ring of Viktor Kozlov from Islamabad
An expedition cargo is in Pakistan, today in the evening it must be delivered to ATP company office.

Sponsors:

edinros.ru
www.gazprombank.ru
www.redfox.ru
www.rostselmash.com
www.osnova.org
www.breeze.ru
www.doublev.ru
www.inmarsat.ru
www.marsat.ru
www.incoma.ru
www.iridium.ru
www.ntvplus.ru
www.camp-it.ru
www.asus.ru
www.gft-leasing.ru
gloria.magweb.ru
zamberlan.com
www.polartec.com
www.3m.com
www.gore-tex.com
www.tendon.com
www.mountain.ru


1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: info@mountain.ru
@Mail.ru Rambler's Top100