(9.11.2023) Jannu. West pillar.
To surpass oneself It probably would have been difficult for me to get through so many events and ascents that I have experienced during my long years of climbing and to survive thus far, had it not been for a deep-seated intuitive sense of caution. This sense has pointed the way out of many dangerous situations, intuitively leading me in the right direction in my struggle to survive.
Author: Valeri Babanov, Chamonix
(6.06.2021) Baruntse West Face
Heavenly trap The weather is devilish and even ordinary basic tasks, such as boiling water or going to urinate, are on the limits of survival
Author: Marek Holecek, Czech Republic
(31.05.2021) The West Face of Baruntse Climbing the almost 1500m route up the face took seven days - seven days of constant physical and psychological tension. Snow pitches alternated with sections of rock, often plastered with ice. Placing protection on such mixed routes is more complicated than on a purely rock or ice route
Author: Sergei Efimov, Yekaterinburg, Russia
Translated from the Russian by Richard Sills
(6.11.2020) Sani Pakkush 6953m (Virgin South face)
Revers gagnant After two weeks we were ready to give a try in this big piece of alpinism. Poor weather conditions made us wait fax days more but the sun was expected to shine for almost one week which made us allow to give a proper try in the face
(19.11.2019) About real winter again What does mean for you "Mezzogiorno" (Midday)? Is the moment when the sun is in the hiest position onto the sky. What does mean "Mezzonotte" (Midnight)? Exactly controversial - sun locate in the lowest position, other side of the Earth
(1.08.2019) Piolets d’Or 2019 In 2019 the International Jury of the Piolets d'Or has chosen to honour
three innovative ascents: a famous face on an iconic mountain of the
central Karakoram
(12.05.2019) Baintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk West (6,660m) and Baintha Brakk West II (6,540m). Max Ten and I had the latter as our goal for the summer of 2018
(15.04.2019) Spirit of mounteering et Nanga Parbat The two men team was climbing the infamous 13km long Mazeno Ridge, the lengthiest arete on any 8000 meters peak
Author: Major General Khalil Dar, Pakistan
(27.03.2019)
Latok I
Saving Chief Mate Gukov
Part IV How many days can rescue operations last? How adequate are decisions made by the relatives who frequently know nothing or precious little about mountains?
Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg
(6.02.2019) Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition. Daniele Nardi from Base Camp We did not expect so heavy snow fall so we left the equipment into a crevass on 5700m. That's the only possibility to fix a camp in that area so we were forced to fix the tent there
(28.01.2019) Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m There are no walk-downs from the summit of Ordzhonikidze. The easiest route is Russian 2B or French PD. On the icy north face were three existing routes, the first by Alexander Kolegov’s team in 1956. Much later, Vassily Pivtsov and various friends added two more, in 2000 and 2004. All these were 4A or 4B
(9.01.2019)
Latok I
Saving Chief Mate Gukov
Part III Gukov, what about Gukov? My lively imagination was presenting a picture of him dying there on his ledge.
Little by little.
Life is going to seep out of him over a long, long time because he is healthy, not injured, and the weather is relatively warm
Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg
Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg
(28.08.2018) Alexander Gukov. Latok I Impossible is not forever ”it’s Latok I, Sanya,” - Sergey shouted. “Take me,” I shouted to him. “This is unreal, Sanya. Everything is covered with snow mushrooms and vertical slopes here,” Sergey answered and began to descend.
Àâòîð:Alexander Gukov, S.Peterburg Translation: Maria Samsonova, Dmitry Zagorovskiy, Ekaterinburg
(14.11.2016) Grandes Jorasses “Nothing happens by chance, everything happens for a reason”, that’s what was on my mind as Roma and I got on the Freboudze glacier in the early summer 2016. We were looking at the east face of the Grandes Jorasses and we already imagined ourselves climbing there
Text by Maxim Foygel, Krasnodar Photos Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy
(26.10.2016) Moveable Feast. Thalay Sagar 2016 As far as I know, nobody has ever climbed North face of Thalay Sagar without using portaledge. We, on the contrary, ceased using portaledge after "No Fear" on Trango Nameless. It was a sort of extra challenge for us this time – try to make it with a tent for 2 personsjazz-music.net
Author Dmitry Golovchenko, Moscow
(25.10.2016) Tibet – West Nyenchen Tanglha expedition report Recently Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm came back from a successful exploratory expedition in Tibet, where they made a first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300 m) in West Nyenchen Tanglha mountain range that is mainly unvisited area
Àâòîð: Domen Kastelic, Slovenia
(16.12.2015) Cerro San Lorenzo: three new routes by Slovenian alpinists in Patagonia In November 2015 a team of five Slovenian alpinists Dejan Koren, Bostjan Mikuz, Rok Kurincic, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic spent a month in the area of Cerro San Lorenzo, the second highest peak in Patagonia. They established three new routes: Direct Route in Cerro Hermoso's southwest face (TD-, 1100 m Petrovcic, Kastelic), No fiesta in Cerro San Lorenzo's East Face
Author: Manca Cujez, Slovenia
(18.11.2015) Talung 7349m, first ascent via NNW spur At the beginning of acclimatization phase we came up to our spur to look at it and to see the quality of the ice and rock. Even after looking at the first pitches we realized that it would be something like Chamonix mixed climbing but with heavy packs higher than 6000 m and during a week!
Autor: Mikhail Fomin, Nikita Balabanov, Ukraine
(17.11.2015) Kok-Shaal Too 2015
Short history Idea was that all 3 teams could work independently. For that purpose Grigoriev joined second team for acclimatization period, 3rd team were climbing easiest lines while me and Nilov were doing reconnaissance of major goal. One of unpleasant surprises: we found garbage with dates of 2010 and 2011 on glacier under South East face of the mountain
Author Dmitry Golovchenko, Moscow
(26.10.2015) Thulagi Chuli, 7059m, Mansari Himal, Gandaki zone, Nepal 25th of September four of us Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dojdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko were staying on the unclimbed summit of Mt. Thulagi Chuli
(2.05.2015) About paragliding in Azerbaijan Azerbaijan is the country that fits ideally Mountaineering and Paragliding needs. We are leaving at area of Small and Big Caucasus next to the Caspian Sea
Àâòîð: Jamal Kashkay, Azerbaijan
(20.04.2015) Attention! The 24th cycle of solar activity and its peak of accidents Now we have time to monitor the laws of accidence by the time the next SA cycle will have come (and its peak will fall approximately within the period 2022-2024) and to try to make the accidence less by way of introducing advanced security measures
Àâòîð: Evgeniy Buyanov, St. Petersburg, Russia
(1.01.2013) Leha!
In memory of Alexey Bolotov Because Leha was the special, outstanding person. Such people deserve to be remembered and spoken about.
Àâòîð: Oleg Ushakov, Moscow
(16.10.2012) Morcheka: Restoration works I must say that for me personally, it wasn’t the Internet where the whole unsavory story began, but directly under Morcheka, on a hot September day, when reaching to the wall and getting ready for the route, I caught a glimpse of fixed ropes braced the ground up to the top of the wall, directly across the central tower
Author: Aleksey Shelkhakov (Morcheka first ascentionist) Crimea
(6.09.2012) OUT OF REALITY
(Dodo Kopold) Another long day. Michal went in bed at 2 AM. Sorry, not in bed but in haulbag. And I sat on a small ledge where sparrows rest.
(14.09.2011) The First Russian Route on Trango Tower In august 2011 a new route on Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) wall was put up by the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation team during the expedition to Karakoram. This is the first Russian route on this mountain
(22.03.2011) DGPS Survey of Shkara In Summer 2010 duo Peter Schon (Austria) and Boris Avdeev (Russia) climbed Mt.Shkhara (5193 m) the top of Bezengi wall via rarely visited route from South (5B Russian grade, max. 4 UIAA, max 55 degree snow). The climb was started from anscient Georgian Ushguli village, UNESCO heritage site.
Àâòîð: Peter Schoen, Republik Österreich
(17.02.2011) Zalia is 6 y.o. Birthday! Once a week she’s deal with speech therapist. She will be back to hospital in March. The speech therapists, psychologists and masseurs will take care of her for a month or more.
Salavat Rakhmetov
(23.12.2010) Antarctica. Ulvetanna. Interview with Valery Rozov The idea is as follows: 3 different persons set on an expedition, each having different tasks (though the target is shared), each getting own mosaic of recollections and feelings. We will try to collect the mosaic to get the complete picture.
Interview with Valery Rozov Photos by:A. Ruchkin, Predrag Vuckovich & Thomas Senf (Øâåéöàðèÿ).
(19.10.2010) Climbs we did in Greenland We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in
Greenland... This was definitely one of our wildest adventure so far. But
don't worry we are already thinking of wilder things :)
(8.07.2010) Ukrainian National expedition “Ukraine – Makalu 2010” in brief The team was divided into three groups working on the route in 5-7 day shifts.
While one group was pushing the upper end of the fixed ropes further,
the other two groups were involved in load carrying to high camps.
(17.12.2009) Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.
(2.11.2009) Nemjung South Face Report We couldn't climb on Manaslu because of lack of acclimatisation and too
much snow...we had a long 12 day period of rest due to very bad weather,
but in the end managed to put up what we believe is a new route on the
south face of Nemjung.
(7.10.2009) Free Ascent of "Quinto Imperio" 550m 8b Naranjo, Spain After solve all the boulder moves and get in touch with the upper exposure part, we get excited and completely forgot about the weather that was getting worst and the 300 meters of rappelling that separate us from the base camp.
(29.09.2009) Muztag-Ata It is one of the highest (7546) and most popular peaks of The Pamirs. Its name can be translated from Turkic as “Father of the icy mountains”. This peak occupies the third place in altitude in the Pamirs after Kongur (7719) and Kongur-Tube (7595).
Author: A. Lebedev, Moscow
(21.09.2009) Again 2 grade route or Exotic alpinism in the Lost World (Cape Aya.) 3 routes, described by Sevastopol alpinists, we didn't try because of too destroyed and dangerous terrain. We didn't find any more information, so we decided to ascend the Western part of the massif which is located to the left from the couloir, to the west from Small Kokia-Kaya mountain.
Author: Dmitry Podgorny, Yalta
(18.09.2009) First free ascent of the Japanese Diretissima on the Eiger North Face The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (Germany) und Roger Schali (Switzerland) managed to finally freeclimb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.
Author: Robert Jasper
(14.09.2009) Mshatka: triangle on the right, by the center of the eastern bastion Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The main part of the the route goes along the right interrupted ledge, forming Triangle.
(9.09.2009) Big Wall Free Climbing in Baffin Island Our main target was to climb around Mt Asgard, which is one of the craziest looking mountains I have ever
seen ( Two cylindrical towers with super steep and long walls all
around).
Author: Nicolas Favresse
(7.09.2009) On the left side of the western buttress, 4B
(Forossky Kant) The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.
(31.08.2009) The first ski down from Lyap Nazar (5990 m), Pamir. Climbing and the first skiing down Pik Afzalsho Olimov (Lyap Nazar, 5990 m), Yazgulem Range, in Pamir, via NW Ridge and West Couloir (50 degrees +).
Author: Peter Schoen (Austra-Canada)
(25.08.2009) Small Kilse Small Kilse Peak is situated in nearly 6 kilometers to the north-east from Foros village. It has altitude about 600 m above sea level and 220 m from its foot and is well seen from the road Yalta – Sevastopol near Sanatornoe village. It has more than 10 routes from 1-st to 6-th grade.
(10.08.2009) Present on February 23 Crimea... We had three holidays – 2 days to drive and 1 day to climb short 5-grade route "Three Cornices" on Small Kilse mountain.
Author: Alexey Osipov, Sergey Tretyakov, Max Kostrov
(3.08.2009) Brief information about the route of Kazakhstan team on Cho Oyu (8,201m) The weather didn’t improve in the morning, but under the shelter of this bergshrund, which slanted up and right, we could catch hold of the rocks. We followed them till 7,300m, then traversed to the right under the serac level.
Author: Denis Urubko, Kazahstan
(30.07.2009) Ruchkin&Mikhailov. Carte Blanche. Pt. 6,134 m No connection (but we fetched our phone all the same), no observers. A cook and a translator didn’t know what mountain we were climbing. No porters. We loaded like donkeys – gear for different kinds of terrain, warm clothes.
Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Photo: Ruchkin&Mikhailov
(27.07.2009) Small Kilse Buroon 638m The route goes along the left side of the wall to the big pine-tree, and then it goes through the middle grade rocks to the pine-tree on the summit. Crux section is the lower part (100m 6 à À 3), then it isn't more difficult then 5 â . Like all the routes od Small Kilse, it looks well from the road, but the nearer you come the more questions appear…
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(20.07.2009) THE SERIKS Serik: Style, beauty, technique and using inertia of moves is something that goes best with practical demonstration. And observation, analyzing, learning rules, and seeing the essence of climbing is an important talent.
Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Translation Svet
(13.07.2009) On the left side of the south-eastern face and the western buttress (Ïåðüÿ (Feathers), 5À *) The route starts 60 m to the right from the western buttress and goes along the lower part by the abrupt and nail face, and in the upper part it goes along the western buttress (Kant), going there through the chain of several breaks, called feathers (R0: 200 m, 20-30 0, á/ê ).
(6.07.2009) Mshatka: “Triangle”, Triangle by the center Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The middle part of the route goes along the left ledge, forming the Triangle.
(24.06.2009) Forossky Kant: The left rhomb, The right rhomb From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards and to the left firstly along the path, then by the slide-rocks (R0: 150 m, 20-30 0, á/ê).
(10.06.2009) Forossky Kant: On the left side and on the right side of the Green corner The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.
(8.06.2009) Kush Kaya Routs: Parabola, Balalaika Route starts just under the " Integral " (see the deion of " Èíòåãðàë " ( Integral ), V grade ).
(5.06.2009) Kush Kaya Routs: Big chimney, Integral From R5 ascend 40 m along the cracks till the ledge with a tree — R6. From the tree go to the right by the wall over the ridge and then go along the corner to the direction of an overhanging stone.
(1.06.2009) Mshatka-Kaya
«Ñòðåëêà» (Strelka) (5À) This well-known route was sent long ago. Nowadays, many bolts become worthless, but the route is yet climbable.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko ("Odessit") Odessa
(22.05.2009) The oldest routs of Kush-Kaya
Mittens Route starts from " âòîðîãî ôóòáîëüíîãî ïîëÿ " (second football ground), from the gray cup . Ascent to R4 point is possible by the following routes: " Êðîêîäèë " ( V grade ), " Øêóðîäåð " ( V grade ), “ In the center through the bushes” ( II-III grade )
Author: Valentin Solomentcev, Moscow, ÌÂÒÓ
(20.05.2009) FA 6À. Cape Aya, May 2007 The wall of cape Aya peak is the longest one in Crimea with a half-kilometer height. There are several routes on the main part of the face. All of them are more than 5B grade.
(18.05.2009) Route "Gates" on Cape Aya The route “Gates” is called so because of peculiar cornices in the middle of the massif. You should climb between these cornices and even climb on the right one.
(13.05.2009) Routes on Cape Aya. The Lost World From the main gorge come by easy rocks to the first abrupt ascent with an inclined (45 degrees) pine-tree on it (80-90 m I grade). In the end of the section turn to the Northern part of the ridge to the ledge with a juniper (photo 2). R7.
Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol
(11.05.2009) Birth of the route "ÀLINÀ" 6b+, 220m In the first day of preparing the route 2 pitches were made, that was 90 meters of the wall. On the second day they made 2 and a half pitches, 100 meters more were done!
Author: M.S. Panferova, Yalta Photo: À. Demin, Simeiz
(5.05.2009) Crimea2006, May-June. New routes Merdven-Kayasu mountain, but many people say that it is Uarch-Kaya, but it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that two new routes appeared here.
(4.05.2009) Uarch-Kaya
The route "Red Fox" The route, equipped by permanent belay points , goes along the beautiful solid face and allows to enjoy free climbing. It has very quick and comfortable approach to the face, not difficult climbing (for good climbers), fully bolted.
(30.04.2009) Shambala 2B
(with the last pitch 3à) In the left part of the nail walls, there is a slanting, ascending right to left overgrown crack . belay with bolts.
The material sent by: Igor Savelyev, Dnepropetrovsk
(28.04.2009) Uarch-Kaya
The route NEW "Shambala" The route "Shambala" was sent last year by Sergey Nadtochey. Because of the new route "Red Fox" situated nearby, the main (central) part of the route "Shambala" was changed, with Author's agreement.
(22.04.2009) Forossky Kant. Routes "Of the green corner" In the end of January we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) send the new route in the left part of Forossky Kant, by the left edge of "The Green corner". The route looks so logically, that it's surprisingly why it hasn't been sent before. In the corner there are human traces, but I don't know if is passed up to the top, at least there are 2 descent loops.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(20.04.2009) Small Kilse, the route "8 màðòà (On March 8)"
5À, F7a, 150m From the upper road go firstly by the path, going into Kievsky couloir*, then straight upwards by the stone-slipping slope to the wall. Ascend on the rocky jut under the central part of the wall.
(13.04.2009) Forossky Kant
The alpinist routes
Part 2 The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.
Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk
(10.04.2009) Mshatka-Kaya.
«Ðûæèé âûâàë» (Red fall) (5Á) The route passes to the right from the central bastion Mshatka- Kaya . The route is rarely visited. The beginning coincides with the route «Triangle on the left».
(8.04.2009) Route «Óõàíîâñêèé» (Uhanovsky) Peak with altiyude 501,6 m is a part of the plateau moved by the plastic ground.
Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol
(7.04.2009) Crimea. South-Westernàÿ face of Cape Aya.. Route "«Ñòðåãîð» (Stregor)" There is yet no grade, only the deion of its sections. As far as it isn't possible now to make the continuation of the route till the top of the wall, and there have already been the ascents, we give the deion to everyone.
(2.04.2009) "Sokolinuy" route In many free climbable places AID is needed, pulling bushes and cleaning the cracks from soil (after every pitch of the first bastion all the clothes, gear and face of the leader were dirty, and looked like a valorous miner).
Author: Poltavetc Eugene and Sipavin Valentin, Kharkov
(1.04.2009) Ak Kaya in winter For the first time in recent 10 years Ukraine organized a winter championship, and I decided that it was time to ascend Ak-Kaya. Though, competitors chose higher and longer routes, but we had first ascent, and winter is a lottery "sent / not sent". fgdfgfd
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(30.03.2009) Zamok
3 popular routes Zamok Peak is situated in the western part of the Southern Coast, to the north-east å from Foros village. Its altitude is 650 m and it is about 370 m from its foot, well seen from the road Yalta - Sevastopol.
Author: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk
(27.03.2009) Zamok
The route “Riglos” The beginning is same with the Cave, but then climb to the right, go upwards to the bush(10m), then difficult climbing on Riglos starts.
Author: Igor Savelyev (SAVA) Foros – Dnepropetrovsk
Author: Igor Savelyev (SAVA) Foros – Dnepropetrovsk
Information from Vladimir Pestrikov, Dnepropetrovsk
(25.03.2009) «Ãîëóáàÿ âîëíà» (Blue Wave) V grade The route starts under the "upper level" of the rock in its right part under the long black spot on the wall. Ascend 15 meters to the direction of the crack with a tree and then go upwards 15 meters along the crack to the area comfortable for belay on the top of the break - R1.
(23.03.2009) Mshatka-Kaya
The route «Êàñêàä» (Cascade) 5Á, 6b, A3, 370m Approach: go upwards from the fork Church-House under Kilse along the path, then move by easy rocks to the ledge. From the ledge go upwards, to the left edge of the "mould". Move by the left edge of the "mould", then move by the buttress, without turning to the left, to the ledge where R5 is.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Taras Tcushko, Odessa
(19.03.2009) Routes on Cape Aya. The Lost World This small piece of the seashore less than kilometer long is accessible only from the sea, because it is surrounded by difficult rocks (by the way, one risky descent variant is described in this article).
Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol
(18.03.2009) Kerag At first we had 5 pitches of very easy climbing by the ledges overgrown with grass maybe in summer it is possible to climb without belay and fixed ropes, but that time it was slippery, with snow areas, we carried loads, so we had to fix line up.
(12.03.2009) Kush-Kaya "Kush-Kaya mountain translated from Turkic means "Bird's mountain", it is situated above Batiliman and Laspi bay on the 30 th km of Sevastopol — Yalta road. Due to Kush-Kaja, which protects this area from northern winds, Batiliman is famous for its warm microclimate.
(11.03.2009) Ascents alone the Caucasus, Uzunkol, 1999 In the morning I started to pack. After nearly a pitch I met group Djaparidze. They offered me to bypass them. After 3 pitches I was on the grassy ledges with streams, grass and butterflies.
Author: Alexander Maximenya, Minsk
(9.03.2009) Route fifteen Winter tactics was used in the ascent, in its base were comfortable nights, and working out the route was made from them. A tent-platform is moved from one safe and convenient place to another while ascending. This tactics allows to improve ascent safety, because party of two can descend along the lines to their tent any time, or to call party of four for help.
(4.03.2009) Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya. First ascents
Resume of first half of 2007 We had an idea to pass the big cornice to the right from « Ðûæåãî âûâàëà » (Red fall), on the fhotos a crack was seen in the center of the cornice. Looking closely, it turned to be not a crack, but a trace of fallen patch. We said goodbye to the beautiful idea and ascended to the summit.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(2.03.2009) Cape Aya. Route "Gates" 5B+ grade May be, it is the longest wall route in Crimea. 14 pitches, climbing is mainly by slabs on friction. The route can be send in a day, but in autumn or unstable weather a night can be foreseen.
(25.02.2009) Life on abscissa axis The fourth ascent of Alexander Ruchkin's route to Free Korea Peak, 6 «à» grade.
Author: Ivan Pugachev, Bishkek
(23.02.2009) 14 routes by the Northern face of Free Korea Peak Free Korea Peak is an adornment of Askai gorge ( Kirghiz ridge. Tien Shan ). About 14 routes go along its Northern face. Many of them can compete with the most difficult technical routes of Tien Shan, Alps and the Caucasus .
(20.02.2009) Forossky Kant The most popular peak in Crimea , Forossky Kant is situated in the South-Western part of the Crimean coastline, near Foros village.
(16.02.2009) Kongur
(Historical- geographical essay, March 2008) Kongur (7719), the highest peak of the Pamirs, is situated on Kongur Tagh ridge, which is a part of Kongurmuztagh – the highest one in Kashgar mountains in the Chinese Pamirs. Kongur Tagh Ridge extends in latitudinal direction to the South from Gezgaryi gorge.
Author: Andrew Lebedev, Moscow
(11.02.2009) Uarch-Kaya, the route «Êàðíàâàë» (Carnaval) 4B, (10m 6à), 270m Approach: from the forester's house under Kilse-Buroon go 3,5 êm along the upper road «Chortova Lestnica» (Devil's stairs). Near the second bridge (from the forester's house) you can leave your car.
The deion made by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow
(9.02.2009) "Renaissance" The route was sent in autumn 2001 by the team from Odessa (Aleksey Jilin, Sergey Kalachev, Alexander Lavrinenko,Vladimir Mogila).
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(5.02.2009) Shaan-Kaya (one more forgotten mountain) Shaan-Kaya is situated in Alupka region. It isn't part of the Main ridge, but is moved forward to the sea, before Alupka wall. Wall difference is about 250 m. In its central part the wall overhangs. It has 6 routes (Note: on December 2001 there were 8 routes passed), all 6 grade.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(2.02.2009) Mshatka-Kaya
Alpinist routes deion Mshatka-Kaya is situated in the south-western part of the Crimean coast, to the north-west from Sanatornoe village, and it is well seen from the road Sevastopol-Yalta.
Author: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk
(30.01.2009) Mizhirgi. Northern ridge. January 2009 When I was in Bezengi for the
first time, on the approach to Warm Corner I noticed a severe and in
the same time very elegant ridge, leading to the top of a huge ice-and-rock
massif, rising above 5000 meters.
Author: Viktor Koval, St. Petersburg
(29.01.2009) Route "Fly down" Was ascended by A. Zakrevsky in autumn 1993. Sasha was under the impression of ascents in the mountains of Wales, where we spent a month together, and went to the mountains almost every day.
Author: Yuri Kruglov
(26.01.2009) Samoded’s Route. 5B (TD+), VII-, A2 (6-7 hours) Ascend to the wall before the most distant from Kush-Kaya big crack. The reference point is a cascade of 2 cornices with brown splits.
(14.01.2009) Treugolnik (Triangle) Treugolnik (Triangle) mountain ( 1000 m altitude) is located above Parkovoe village, 2 km to the west from Morcheka. The wall has western orientation, so it is hardly seen from the lower road.
(5.01.2009) Deep Water Solo on cape Aya We gathered on July 21 on the Embankment of Balaklava. There, on the berth, 160 liters of water were delivered because there are no water springs near our future camp.
Author: Puzankov Sergey
(29.12.2008) "Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335m) or Morcheka 2002 The idea of the route has been changed a lot during the ascent preparation. Primary plan was to pass Bodnik's route, straighten it through the solid, overhanging in its lower part, slab (boulge).
Àâòîð: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(25.12.2008) Unknown routes on Zamok R0-R1: from the tree go upwards through easy destroyed rocks 15 m, then go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing to the overhang 20 m, then AID by cracks 10 m to the belay (3 bolts) IV, À3, 45m
Àâòîð: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(22.12.2008) Through 3 Crimean canyons You can climb without nuts, but we lacked loops. Dynamic rope is also a luxury – climbing is easy.
(18.12.2008) Shaan-Kaya, Crimea.
“Hiperborea" route (Yarechevsky-Marunich)
6À, 5.11d (F 7a), A3+, 300m, >100° The route goes along the right side of the Southern wall of Shaan-Kaya, in its upper part turning to the left, to the center. As a reference point you can use a big overhanging corner, seen even from the lower road. If you trace a line from the root of the corner perpendicularly to the foot, it will show the start.
Àâòîð: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(15.12.2008) Route "Musi-Pusi"
2À grade The route goes along the southern buttress of Hergiani rock, just opposite the route “Surprise”.
Approach: go along the upper old road to the Devil's Stairs, then 400- 500 m to the east, to a small rock near the road, and 100- 130 m more to the note “Crimea” made with green paint.
Author: Taras Ivankov, Simferopol, Ukraine
(11.12.2008) Safety problems on Crimean ascents Alpinism is closely related to the falls. But fallings can be different. Nobody is secured against occasional break or stone blow. There is no 100% reliability. But the paradox is that people usually get wounded not because of objective reasons, but on account of their own muddle-headedness.
Àâòîð: Sergey Nadtochey, Simferopol
(4.12.2008) Kastropol wall Kastropol wall is situated on the Main ridge of Crimean mountains above Kastropol village. From the quarry under Morcheka go to the west along the upper road for about 2.5 km .
(1.12.2008) Warm-up In the evening a snowstorm began, it was time to think about the night. There are 3 ledges on all the route, all of them inclined, covered with ice and stones.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
(28.11.2008) Simone Moro Announces his New Winter Project: Makalu SIMONE’S PASSION FOR EXPLORATION has led him from his playground in the Italian Dolomites to the highest places on our earth. He is world renowned for his all round prowess as an alpinist - on rock, on ice, mixed and at altitude.
(27.11.2008) Experience on Kastropol wall All we heard about it can be said in few words: much destroyed, overhanging wall with rarely visited old routes.
Author: Alexander Shelhakov Photo: Alexander Kuzmitcky
(24.11.2008) Au-Dag — from the ancient times to our days Au-Dag is covered with legends. In ancient times the mountain caused the sacred feeling of nature's power. According to an old legend, a giant bear who lived here became a stone, trying to drink the sea and to stop fugitives.
(10.11.2008) How we “got tipsy” on Angarka! This weekend we had free Sunday, so Maxim and I decided to furrow the spaces of Angarka. The road was nice: sunny, without mosquitoes, the blackberry grew, that's why we were in fighting spirit and decided to climb something interesting.
Àâòîð: Dmitry Spiridonov, Simferopol
(7.11.2008) Sickle and Three on the Angarskaya wall Angarskaya wall isn't popular among climbers few even know that it has about 10 routes 2-5 grades. Mainly climbers know only “Acrofobia” – a multipitch route (5A) made by V. Ivanov in 90-th years, but such trad routes like “Sickle” (4B) and “Three” (3A) are unknown.
(5.11.2008) Chelebi, Crimea.
Alpinist routes
Chelebi massif is located in the Western part of the Main ridge of Crimean mountains, between “Baydarsky gates” pass and Ilyas-Kaya mountain. Its height is 200 m, altitude – 600 m above sea level. In spite of small height, its central part has 5 routes 5 and 6 grades.
(31.10.2008) Ay-Petri – route “soviet botanists” In comparison with many other climbing regions of Crimea , walls of Ay-Petri are not so popular because of long approaches, though first steps of Crimean alpinism were made here.
Author: Gostev K.V., Yalta Photo: Voshanov S.V.
(29.10.2008) Crimea, Ay-Petri, alpinist route 3 B grade Among the most of Crimean alpinist routes this route is notable for heterogeneous sections. It has sections where you can go on foot in bunches with shortened rope (the most self-confident can go without rope), and there is a difficult climbing section where skills of vertical climbing are needed, as well as making belay.
(21.10.2008) To the peak of Aj-Petri You can receive evidence in the contrast of Ay-Petri climate, if you ascend from Yalta to the plateau, and change hot sub Mediterranean climate to moderate cold, damp climate. The average air temperature in Yalta is +13,1°, on Ay-Petri it is +5,9°, temperature difference is in these points is about 7,2°.
Author: Fomenko Alexandra, Yalta Photos: Alexander Demin, Simeiz
(15.10.2008) Chelebi by the left part of the wall From the belay go upwards to the split 3 m (spits), then traverse to the left along the small ledge with juniper till the vertical corner. Go upwards 8-10 m by the corner (spits), to the small cornice, then go to the left to the wall, a good place for a horizontal climbing bolt.
(14.10.2008) To the peak of Aj-Petri The route of this excursion begins from Yalta bus station, then we will drive along the wide Yalta-Sevastopol highway, which streams Yalta on the north-west, then we will turn to the mountain road, the group will visit the peak, then descent to the Southern coast by the aerial ropeway and return to Yalta by minibus.
Author: Fomenko Alexandra, Yalta Photos: Alexander Demin, Simeiz
(8.10.2008) “New” routes on Chelebi The spectacular place was chosen: a solid boulge under a big red cornice in the right part of Chelebi massif. And though the ethics of ascent was not alpinist at all (the lines were fixed up for the exploring of the alleged route), the route was worthy.
(3.10.2008) Potential climbing regions of Crimea The region from Sevastopol to Balaklava is an abrupt shore, sometimes 200 m high. This part is much broken up . There are no rocks useful for climbing.
Author: Yury Kruglov, Sevastopol
(1.10.2008) Angara-Burun along the right part of Angarskaya wall, 4À (90 m, V) In spite of the fact that Angarskaya wall of Chatur-Dag is well seen from the Angarsky pass, few people know that it has several routes from 2 to 5 grades. In its right part there is a three grade route which is described in “Crimean Alps” in 1968.
Author: Anatoly Brunza, Ukraine
(29.09.2008) A jump from Kukurturlu wall I’ve wanted to do an interesting base-project on the Caucasus for a long time. Formerly I spent a lot of time there as an alpinist.
Author: Valery Rozov, Moscow
(22.09.2008) Experience of “Travel Tale” I can't but share my impressions of climbing multi pitch route “Travel Tale” on Forossky Kant.
(16.09.2008) Two new routes in Karakorum. Pakistan.
Summer 2008. An idea of switching over from 7000 and starting passing new technical routs on 8000 came to my mind last autumn, in 2007, after ascent to Janna in Himalayas.
Author: Valery Babanov, Canada
(11.09.2008) Guidbook of Treugolnoe The massif consists of separate walls about 15 m wide and 10-18 m high, mainly overhanging and vertical sections and VERY rich relief (on photos only 2 overhanging sections, I didn't take pictures of verticals, photos aren't sharp because it was twilight and many trees).
Author: Aleksey Tcelishev, Sain-Petersburg
(3.09.2008) Crimea mountains The Crimean peninsula is situated in the South-Eastern Europe, it is part of the Ukraine. Its area is 27 000 square kilometers. It is washed by the Black Sea and the See of Azov.
(18.08.2008) Skyang Kangri. To Be Continued… On June, 23, Krasnoyarian team (Nikolay Zakharov – leader, climbers: Alexander Mikhaylitsyn, Vladimir Arkhipov, Serguey Cherezov, Eugueniy Beljaev, Igor Loginov, and doctor Alexander Kukharev a.k.a. Bormental) camped at the base of the Skyang Kangri.
Àâòîð: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU.
Photo: E. Belyaev, A. Mikhalitsyn, V. Arkhipov.
(5.05.2008) Trento Film Festival. Russian Mountaineering Party As emotional aspect of alpinism the main thing especially in solo climbing is that the mountains is the only place to be true to oneself.
(7.04.2008) Sector 2
(Left side of the Southern Wall) As for the general appraise of the routes, for some of them we attend your attention the grade difficulty that differs from the generally accepted one.
Authors: Alexander Kuzminsky, Moscow Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
(3.03.2008) Far-Eastern Alpinist Camp Badzhal 2007
Resurrection We had to pass about 50 kilometers in three days along the channels of the rivers Gerbi and Omot Makit, and came to the sources of the river Ulun.
(11.02.2008) The Chinese Tien-Shan
(continuation) We started the descent, finding out our hooks. The upper ones we passed through but found ourselves on the station below marble zone. From that place there were two ropes for descending using descenders down to the fixed ropes, so we couldn’t miss then.
(4.02.2008) New route in Jabal Misht, Oman Next morning began with the problem: alarm clock on our (both) mobiles were set on central European time, so we woke up at 6 instead of 3 o’clock in the morning. We ran up to the face and began the climb at about 8:30.
Gestola is a very beautiful mountain. Its slender pyramid attracts and summons everyone, who has been to the Bezengiysky canyon. And the route of Hergiani to Gestola is also very beautiful and attractive, and even a little bit defiant. And we couldn’t stand up against their beauty…
In my opinion it is a thankless thing to write about the Fanskie Mountains. They have written a lot about them and the region has become well explored, but nevertheless… I’ll try. May, this review will become useful for somebody.
During walking days we were working for7-12 hours, the relief was mostly slide-rocky, or very difficult ice-snowy, climbing sometimes in crampons, sometime without them.
(13.12.2007) Peak of Lenin Further you descent to the glacier of Lenin and go along the path along the glacier, then come to the glacier in its middle stream. Up to the coming to the body of the glacier, the path is rather good.
Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar
(28.06.2006) Grand Jorasses North Face Expedition This Project is a continuation of new adventure - a kind of extreme sport that we opened in 2002 and named "B.A.S.E. climbing".
The goal is not just to get to the top (not around but via the line of the future falling), but to do a B.A.S.E. jump from the summit.
(26.02.2006) Alex Chabot and C in Argentina Alex Chabot, Romain Pagnoux, Chris Lindner and Phil Maurel in Bariloche, Argentina
