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(6.07.2011)
Valery Rozov. Mont Blanc Base Jump

Today, 6.07.2011, at 7am local time Valery Rozov made first ever base jump from Mont Blanc (Italy side).

(19.05.2011)
Shark Tooth / 1555m
East Greenland, region Renland

The first ascent to the top Shark Tooth / 1555m / The North-West ridge from 05/02/2011 to 05/05/2011

Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhaylov
The height of the ABC / Edward Bailey Gletscher / - 40m
The height of the glacier Sharks Teeth Glacier 640 m

Vertical wall, 915 m
6A, 1200m, A2, 6C,
The route length of 1200 m

From ABC 02/05/2011
Top 05.05.2011 at 18.30.
Descend to ABC 05/06/2011


News source: Alexander Ruchkin

(18.10.2010)
The John Harlin direttissima route with Heckmair exit climbed freestyle for the first time

Robert Jasper and climbing partner Roger Schaeli reach another milestone on the north face of the Eiger.
Extreme mountaineer Robert Jasper (42) - considered one of the best alpinists in the world - together with his rope partner, the Swiss professional mountaineer Roger Schaeli (31), has forged another breakthrough on the north face of the Eiger.
From 20th – 23rd September Jasper and Schaeli climbed the world-famous John Harlin direttissima route with Heckmair exit in redpoint freestyle for the first time. The 1800m high route, known as the John Harlin direttissima on the north face of the Eiger, is one of the most challenging in the world, with rock and ice presenting real technical difficulties.

(Mixed M8- /rock 7a E5 redpoint). The pitons left behind 44 years ago by the first climbers were very dubious. After the Eiger Japan direttissima (1st free ascent, Jasper/Schaeli, 2009), the “free Harlin route” is the second major “line” in modern freestyle climbing through the north face (pitons now just serving as security, no longer aiding progress). But it is so dangerous that climbing it in the summer was out of the question. Then again, in the winter it is too cold, which is why these two professional mountain climbers chose autumn. “It was a balance between what is just tenable and the risks on the wall,” said Jasper. “I made my first attempt at this route in the winter as early as 20 years ago I had to turn back on my own. After three further attempts I had gained the experience I needed. You have to know what is important here.

When I climbed the north face of the Eiger whilst making the IMAX film with John Harlin III (the son of John Harlin II who fell to his death in 1966 on his first ascent when his rope broke) I was really affected by his family tragedy.”

“Climbing this legendary route, I could not stop my thoughts from turning to that drama. As I lead climbed the very length of rope where John Harlin had his fatal fall in 1966, thoughts of my family and the risks of the mountain flitted through my mind, which was really tough. That route was the most emotional climb of my whole life!”

After three days on the wall, at around half past eight in the evening, partners Jasper and Schaeli reached the summit of the 3970m high Eiger in true Alpine style. Elated but utterly drained, they set up their third bivouac a few metres below the summit on the knife-edge ridge. The next morning, an abseil down the 700m high south wall brought them back down to civilization.

Source: Robert Jasper

(22.09.2010)
Back To The USSR. Crimea. USSR Championship-1987
(12.08.2010)
Date update: 13.08.2010
New Route On Khan Tengri

Gleb Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov team up and established new route on Khan Tengri (7010m).

The route follows approximately via rocky "snake-line" which is going down all along the wall between a classical WSW rib and "sickles".

The weather was marginal.

The team reached the summit four days ago after five days of climbing plus one day waiting for a weather window.

Details on arrival.

(6.08.2010)
K2. We Lost Fredrik Ericsson

Early morning (8/6/2010) in America, the phone call came, it was bad news .... Fredrik fell .... We held the news figuring it would be 24 hours before his family was notified.

Fredrik Ericsson was attempting the summit of K2. The weather forecast was stated to be excellent. Some climbers did not believe the forecast. It was clear when Fredrik left for the summit. But then a very strong storm moved in. The forecast was very very wrong. He fall down about 1000 meters. His body was seen by Yura Ermachek, a Russian Climber.

All Abruzzi climbers have turned around and headed down the mountain. They are very sad. Fredrik Ericsson was a friend to many.

We have been told Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner turned and returned to camp 4. We have no other knowledge on her summit attempt. She did not summit. Trey Cook, Fredrik Ericsson climbing partner, also attempted the summit but turned back after a few hours into the attempt.

A very sad day on K2 and for those of us who knew Fredrik he was a nice guy.... Our prayers go out to his family.

Source: Asghar Ali Porik, JASMINE TOURS

(5.08.2010)
Amin Brakk. Girls Completed Czech Express

Russian-Ukrainian trio Marina Kopteva,
Anna Yasinskaya and Galina Chibitik (all female team)
just came back home from Pakistan where they completed
Czech Express on Amin Brakk.

More details (in russian)

More details in english coming soon

(18.05.2010)
Denis Urubko. New Route on Lhotse

This morning Denis came back to base camp.
He was happy and tired for the nice climb he did on Lhotse along a new route/variation. Starting from south col, yesterday at 6:30, arrived first of the season at 11,30 on the Lhotse summit at 11,30. He followed the line we studied together some weeks ago. Well done Denis. I was in base camp because I worked quite hard to coordinate the evacuation f two dead bodies from camp by helicopters. Burocracy and coordination between helicopter and Sherpas in camp 2 had been quite had to do in the past days. Everything at the end worked well.

Now my intention is to take few days rest and than start for a no oxygen Everest attempt. The summit day should be the 23rd may. Only if the forecast suggest some other date I will change my schedule. Denis is just started to go down in the valley to meet friends and his girlfriend that are trekking toward Everest Base camp. They will come here also to wait my return from the Everest attempt.

Source: Source Simone Moro

(13.05.2010)
The videos of the Trento Filmfestival 2010

Online the videos of the first five days of the TrentoFilmfestival 2010 WebTV, from Antoine Le Menestral to Krzysztof Wielicki, via Lothar Brandler, Erhard Loretan Mauro Corona, Nicolas Favresse, Hanspeter Eisendle, Kurt Diembergerand many more...

Climbing and mountaineering e alpinismo
Antoine Le Menestrel - the poetry of climbing
Erhard Loretan - a great interpreter of world mountaineering
Krzysztof Wielicki - winter exploration on the highest mountains in the world
Lothar Brandler - from the legendary Hasse - Brandler to winning three Genziane d'Oro at Trento.
Kurt Diemberger - la prima salita del Dhaulagiri, il 13 maggio 1960.
Tamotsu Nakamura - Tibet and the beauty of discovering remote lands and unclimbed peaks.
Hanspeter Eisendle - the love for mountaineering and being a Mountain Guide
Ang Tshering Sherpa - testimone dei cambiamenti climatici che stanno interessando l'Himalayana.
Mauro Corona - the holy and the mountains
Nicolas Favresse - one of the most talented climbers in the world
IFSC Speed World Cup 2010
Mountaineering evening: Nico Favresse
Mountaineering evening: Himalaya, yesterday and today - with Nives Meroi, Kurt Diemberger, Krzysztof Wielicki and Ang Tshering Sherpa
Mountaineering evening: Mountain Guides and clients on the great classics - with Hanspeter Eisendle, Erhard Loretan, Marco Furlani, Marcello Cominetti.
Homage to Bruno Detassis

Literature, film and culture
Maurizio Nichetti - after 6 years at the helm, the art director thanks and greets the Trento FilmFestival.
Syusy Blady - Yo valgo, yo puedo, yo voy a perder el miedo
Marco Albino Ferrari - La sposa dell’aria
Marco Paolini - introduces Eva dorme by Francesca Melandri
Bruno Bozzetto - Camuni
Francesca Melandri - Eva dorme
Maurizio Zaccaro - Jury president 2010
Stefano Caserini - climate changes
Scalatori e grimpeur - Coppi and Bartali, the eternal rivals
Bartali - Coppi - a great story
Thierry Toscan - lthe difficulties of living in the mountains
Il sacro e la montagna - with Giuseppe Cederna and Mauro Corona
Susanna Tamaro - the big tree
Claudio Sabelli Fioretti - the uncertainty - greatness of walking
Jospeh Vilsmaier - Nanga Parbat
Elisabetta Sgarbi - the final ascent
La via degli dei - Wu Ming 2
Leni Riefenstahl vista da Irene Bignardi
Der Heilige Berg - opening ceremony
Thangkas - introduced by René Vernadet
Le vie dei canti by Bruce Chatwin
Augusto Golin -the 2010 program
Egidio Bonapace - President Trento FilmFestival
Trento FilmFestival, he 1000 faces of the mountain

(28.04.2010)
Monte Sarmiento, North Face first ascent

At the start of April the German extreme climber Robert Jasper and his team, the mountain guide Jorn Heller and the photographer Ralf Gantzhorn reached the summit of Monte Sarmiento (West 2145m) via a new route up the North Face.

On 4th April 2010 a small German team comprised of Robert Jasper, Jorn Heller and mountain photographer Ralf Gantzhorn succeeded in climbing a new route up the virgin north face of the Monte Sarmiento, reaching it's west summit.
Located in Patagonia's inhospitable Terra del Fuego, the peak is rarely ascended and some 30 expeditions have failed in the past, giving an indication as to the regions difficulties.
In fact, prior to their ascent the team had to dig deep just to reach the base of the mountain proper: after having arrived at Ushuaia in March they spent 11 days sailing through the rough waters around Cape Horn and making their way up north to the Magellan Strait, to establish their base camp at Caleta Escandallo.
Finding a way through the thick vegetation and the glacier proved highly complicated, and bad weather soon brought three attempts to an abrupt, premature end.

On 1 April the winds changed direction and they set off once again, only to dig themselves into a snowhole half way up the mountain in total white-out conditions.
But the three struck lucky and at 2 am Jasper noticed the first star appear through the clouds. They quickly melted snow, ate some food and set off once again, reaching the summit at midday in perfect weather.
They named their alpine-style ascent "La Odisea de Magellanes" to honour the 18 century adventurers who first ventured into this area, and their climb covered a distance of circa 20km with 3000m height gain and difficulties up to WI 4+. The roundtrip from their boat at Caleta Escandallo to the summit and back again required 39 hours.

Jasper recounts:
"The whole expedition was a real adventure. The storms of Cape Horn where tossing our little sailing boat back and forth. This Terra del Fuego has always interested me from a historical point of view and I've always wanted to go there ever since meeting Stephen Venables, who reached the West Summit via the South Face in 1995 together with John Rosekelley, Tim Macartney-Snape in an expediton led by Jim Wickwire. Every region poses specific difficulties and while Monte Sarmiento is much lower than the peaks in the Himalaya, the weather is extreme, with raging storms, intense cold and incessant rain. Add to this the fact that it's pure wilderness, there's simply nothing remotely like this in Europe. The vegetation is so thick it's like a brick wall and there are so many dangerous swamps that you could disappear into that we needed a couple of days just to fight our way through the jungle. The freezing cold and the vertical, pressed snow proved demanding and finding a route though the massive ice formations proved demanding, but we managed and in the end we were really lucky with the weather: the unexpected window lasted 20 hours and gave us just enough time to get back safely. I suppose it's a question of being in the right place at the right time, but despite the perfect weather we couldn't really enjoy the summit as we were constantly worried about it closing in on us in a matter of minutes. Which it did, but by then we were back safely. Yes, a real adventure which came to an end on 10 April at Puerto Natales after another week sailing back to civilisation."


Photos: Ralf Gantzhorn
Text/Translation: Nicholas Hobley

Source: Robert Jasper


Photo Nuria Garcia
(16.04.2010)
20 days at the El Gigante Valley

The first time I’ve heard about El Gigante was in the summer of 2009 from a Mexican friend (Daniel “Wey”), who had been there a few years before, opening a route on the Basaseachi waterfall. A few months later he invited me to join with three other climbers with the objective of climbing a new route on El Gigante Valley.

Because there‘s not much information about the place, we didn’t really know where we were going to open or what kind of equipment would be needed, then, after three days of hiking through the jungle to carry over 300 kilos of equipment and food, we had the chance to see and pick the wall we feel more attracted to, so we set our base camp 20 minutes from Piedra Volada, an unclimbed 400meters beautiful and steep wall. When we made the first approach, we realized that it would take us at least another three days with many rope tricks, just to load all the gear to the base of the wall, and we only had 20 days.

We had to find a “quick” alternative, so we decided to try our luck on the famous El Gigante tower.

Most of the existing routes on this 900 meters impressive wall are aid routes and we’ve quickly understand why, the almost absent presence of natural protections, the pour rock and the brutal steepness, makes it almost impossible to free climb while you’re opening, so, most of the time you have to climb and wend your adrenaline starts to getting high, you try to hang on something, most of the times was on really bad hooks or even hanged with one hand and drilling with the other, really scary moments. Of course that this takes a really long time to progress but is the only way to make it possible to free climb…

There’s a positive side on that, as we could not be the four opening and climbing at the same time, we could explore and enjoy the endless bouldering potential all over the canyon field, at the end we opened almost 50 boulders, from V0 to V12 range, good fanatic moments! Sure if it wasn’t the inaccessibility of the place it could really be an overwhelming place, with hundreds of boulders shaped by the river.

We spent the first few days avoiding the poor rock and the blank sections, so we could get faster at half of the wall, where despite the much more steeped ground, also seemed much more solid than the first part and apparently with much more options to natural protections.

Once again we were wrong! After 400 meters of brutal work, opening and cleaning to make it possible to free climb, we got to a place that just wasn’t possible to move forward (at least for us that were seeking a line to go free), huge sections of poor rock in every directions that we tried to move. We all had the same feeling, it was time to stop and climb the pitches we didn’t freed on our way up.

We could free climb all of them, except the second last one, that wend I finally solved the moves after two days of effort, I was shut down by breaking holds twice after the crux and I was too tired to try it again. That pitch together with the second, are the hardest one.

We must thank our sponsors and friends who supported us so much:
Petzl, Beal, Nuria, Martin, Varis, Omar, Diego, Santiago and Don Santiago.

All photos (number: 5)

(22.03.2010)
Results: Nissan Xtreme by Swatch, Verbier 2010

Women Freeride World Champions Crowned:

Ski: Ane Enderud NOR
Snowboard: Aline Bock GER

Men’s Competition Postponed to a Later Date this Week

Verbier, Switzerland – March 20, 2010 – More than six thousand spectators watched the world’s best freeride skiers and snowboarders take on the impressive 600 vertical metre face of the Bec des Rosses in Verbier, Switzerland, for the Nissan Xtreme by Swatch, celebrating its 15th edition.
The women athletes were first down the mountain and the two women Freeride World Champions 2010 were crowned after the competition.
Due to poor visibility, the competition was stopped for the men before the last seven athletes were able to go down the face.
For the men the competition is therefore postponed to a later date this coming week as soon as there is a weather window.
The last possible day is Sunday 28 March.

Norwegian skier Ane Enderud has had an impressive season going from strength to strength.
After cancelling the first stage of the Freeride World Tour because of back problems, she won two of the following competitions, and was second once.
With that consistent result she was crowned Freeride World Champion on Saturday, defending her title from last year.

Double Olympic silver medallist Julia Mancuso had an impressive first experience of freeride competitions, being the fastest women down the mountain and taking third.

Shannan Yates, American newcomer to the Freeride World Tour, won the women’s snowboard on the Bec des Rosses, with German Aline Bock taking second, giving her the World Champion title after four nice podiums this season.

Women’s Freeride World Tour Ranking 2010 (complete FWT ranking click here)

SKI WOMEN

1. Ane Enderud (NOR)
2. Jess McMillan (USA)
3. Jaclyn Paaso (USA)

SNOWBOARD WOMEN

1. Aline Bock (GER)
2. Susan Mol (USA)
3. Shannan Yates (USA)
Women’s Results Nissan Xtreme by Swatch, Verbier (complete results click here)

SKI WOMEN

1. Ane Enderud (NOR)
2. Jess McMillan (USA)
3. Julia Mancuso (USA)

SNOWBOARD WOMEN

1. ShannanYates (USA)
2. Aline Bock (GER)
3. Geraldine Fasnacht (SUI)

All photos (number: 4)

Source: Nissan Xtreme by Swatch

(8.12.2009)
Himalaya (Nepal) Winter Expedition

Vassily Pivtsov (33) a member of the Kazakhstan National team project and David Falt (38) from Sweden will attempt the North Face of Kwangde Lho 6187m in Nepal staring in January 2010.

Pivtsov and Falt are aiming to do a pure alpine style calendar-winter ascent of Kwangde Lho (6187m) via the North Face.
Vassily has done several hard technical winter routes in the past, lately Vassily has focused on completing his quest to do all of the worlds 14 summits over 8000 meters with out O2.
In just a few years Vassily has done 12 of the 14 summits so his vast Himalaya experience will come in handy on this very different expedition.
David has been part of three Himalayan expeditions adding to his 45 plus winter accents in the Alps up to ED3.
David was part of a Swedish team establishing a new route (ED-) on the previously unclimbed Hunza Peak 6270 in alpine style 1991.
David also tried Shani 5885 m twice, both times in alpine style and this past summer he was part of an expedition trying a new route on Gasherbrum 4 in alpine style.

Pivtsov and Falt will try a new route on the North Face if conditions permit.
If conditions looks to thin on the "project" we will try to repeat the legendary Breashears-Lowe route, ED2, WI6, 1200m, from 1982.
This route has never had a complete accent since it was first established.
The Kwangde group lies in Nepal's Khumbu region.
The North Face is about 1300 meters in Vertical height and has 7 routes that we know of.
They are all very technical and we expect steep ice, rock and mixed.
The routes established so far are all ED rated with Ice not easier than WI5 and mixed between M5 and M8.

Starting January 6th News updates will be posted on e9climbing

Picture of Kwangde: Courtesy of Simone Moro

Routes in the picture from left to right: Japannes route WI6 M5, Breashears-Lowe WI6 M?A?, French (Benoist) route WI5+

Sponsors: Crux, Redfox, Outdoordesigns, Rab, Human Edge Tech

All photos (number: 3)

Source: David Walter Falt


Alexander Ruchkin
(7.12.2009)
Russian Piolet d'Or-2009 goes to...

Russian Piolet d'Or goes to Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhaylov new route Carte Blanche on peak 6134m in Minya Konka, Sichuan, China. It is situated in the Daxue Shan mountain range.

Other nominated routes were:

Gleb Sokolov, Vitaliy Gorelik, desperate two man FA on peak Pobeda West, 6918m, via "Verblud" NW buttress, 6B.
Kyrgystan, Tjan Shan

Peak Verniy (Cathedral Sobor), 5250m, direct NW face, 6B, FA.
Kyrgystan, Tjan Shan
Team: Bandalet, Golovchenko, Nilov, Mikhaylov, Malakhovskiy

Stolb (Tsar' Tron), 2850m, left edging of West face.
6B, Winter FA
Kodar range, Russia
Team Veretenin, Bashkirtsev, Pedenko, Glazunov, Davydenko

Kjerag North face, Norway
6B Winter FA
Team Chibitok, Ivanov, Lonchinskiy, Dozhdev, Shamalo

Sichuan, NW Face, China
6B FA
Team Shamalo, Molodozhen, Muryshev, Sushko

Pamir's Marathon, 622km, 56 days: Peak Revolution, 5B, peak Communism, 5B, peak Lenin, 5A
Peak Revolution, SE Face on the right, via Zaydler route, 5B
Peak Communism via SE ridge from Bivachniy glacier via Tamm's route, 5B.
Peak Lenin West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara's glacier, 5A (not rated)
Overfall 22267m, lenth 419km
Team Timoshenko, Shabalin, Zharov, Savchinskiy, Vorobjev, Zhanov, Janchevskiy, Lebedev (leader)

Peak Armoured Cruiser Varjag, 2430m
6B, First winter Ascent
Sherstnev, Ljaghin, Sinushkin, Shelkovnikov

Read more about Ruchkin-Mikhaylov ascent
Ruchkin&Mikhailov. Carte Blanche. Pt. 6,134 m

Video

Pamir's Marathon. Video


Spantik, 7028m. Ph Manu Pelissier
(21.10.2009)
Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Pakistan During 2009

Pakistan's Summer Moutaineering Season 2009 has finally ended.
Year 2009 has been a very bleak season for Mountaineering in Pakistan.
The current security state of the country has adversely affected the inflow of Tourists in Pakistan.
This year a total No of 63 teams originally applied for attempting various peaks but 18 withdrew their applications leaving 45 teams who have been granted permit to climb various peaks of their choice, 02 more teams who had been granted permit to climb peaks did not turn up for climbing, thus leaving just 43 teams in the field.
Out of these four teams were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each and one team to climb 03 peaks, as such overall 49 attempts were made to climb various peaks by 343 climbers including 54 climbers attempting 2 peaks each thus totaling the numbers on attempting climbers to 397.
Out of these 17 expeditions have returned successful by putting 72 climbers on the summits of various peaks including o4 climbers summitting 02 peaks each whereas 32 teams have returned unsuccessful.
Unluckily 03 climbers lost their lives while descending from the summit after summitting the peak, 02 on Nanga Parbat and 01 on G-II while another 03 climbers lost their lives while attempting K-2, Broad Peak & Latok-I.

A brief resume of expeditions on various peaks is given below

Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Pakistan During 2009

Result of Mountaineering Expeditions - 2009 (Name of Summitteers)

Source: Karrar Haidri, Member Executive Council Alpine Club of Pakistan

(22.08.2009)
12-years old Zhenja Kazbekova sends 8b "Zhuzha, don't be chiken!"

12-years old Zhenja Kazbekova sent solid 8b "Zhuzha, don't be chiken!" on Aug, 20, at the Red Stone, Crimea.
She had about 10 tries on it.
Zhenja's now 12, and will turn 13 yo this year (15 October).

"Zhuzha, don't be chicken!" was bolted two years ago by Andrew Vedenmeer for Mountain.RU Rock Trip Contest, and only Serik could do it then.

Zhuzha is nickname of world bouldering champion Julia Abramchuk, she was really afraid of falling while trying this route so the guys cried to encourage her everything that came to mind.. and then we decided that it is good name for this route.

Read more The SERIKS
Zhuzha


Zhenja Kazbekova fights on Vremja Ch, 8a
(1.07.2009)
12 year old Zhenja Kazbekova sent 8a+/b

This morning 12 year old Zhenja Kazbekova sent New Kenigsberg 8a+/8b, Crimea, Red Stone.
Last year she sent her first 8a "Vremja Ch"

It seems Zhenja became the youngest girl climbed 8a at 11 and now 8a+/b at 12.
(24.06.2009)
Fredrik Ericsson. K2 Ski Expedition 2009 - Update 3

2009-06-18 - Skiing on K2

K2, What a mountain. It is 8612 meters high, but when I stand here in base camp, at 5100 meters, and look at it, it doesn't fell like it is more than 1000 meters to the summit. It is a weird feeling when I know it is more than 3500 meters to the top.

A few days ago when Michele and I was on our first acclimatization trip we got to experience how big the mountain really is. We left base camp at seven in the morning and walked along the Godwin Austen Glacier for 30 minutes up to the foot of K2 and the start of the Cesen Route. With ski boots and crampons on our feet, poles in our hands and a heavy backpack filled with a tent, sleeping bag, primus stove, gas, food etc. and a pair of skis strapped onto it, we started the climbing. At the beginning it was a nice ski slope of 30 degrees with perfect hard packed snow. Nice to climb on. We climbed on the right hand side of a big snow slope close to a rock ridge to stay out of the danger zone of a large Serac hanging above the left side of the slope. The ski slope got steeper, between 40-50 degrees and the snow got deeper. I had a hard time to stop dreaming about the upcoming ski descent on this perfect slope in soft powder snow. But first we had to find a tent spot where we could spend the night. I would have liked to ski down straight away but for our acclimatization it is best to spend time on higher altitude. To find a spot for the tent proved to be very difficult. We started the search at 5700 meters but it wasn't until we reached 6000 meters, after a total of seven hours of climbing, that we found a spot that we could imaging being flat. After some digging and building we had a semi-bad tent spot with two of the corners hanging in the air. Guess who got to sleep on that side of the tent? Not surprisingly, I slept pretty good anyway.

The next morning both Michele and I woke up with a headache and it was blowing and snowing outside. Great! After breakfast and a bit of fresh air my headache was gone but Michele must have caught some altitude illness since he didn't get well until we were back in base camp. After chilling in our tent for a few hours it stopped snowing and cleared up so we put our skis on and started sliding down the mountain. We took it easy in the beginning since I am always a bit unsecure on a new mountain especially when it is steep and rocks around. The snow was better than we had expected, cold and just a little windpacked and it was sloughing a bit. When the slope opened up I could do bigger turns and carry more speed, just cruising down the mountain. I had a big smile on my face, cause even if only a third of the mountain, we were skiing on K2. I got 900 vertical meters of nice skiing before I, totally euphoric, took my skis off 30 meters from my tent in BC. I had just skied the coolest ski slope in the world.

We will now have a few days of rest in base camp, charging batteries, before the next ski adventure on K2.

Book that I'm reading: Richard Branson - Business Stripped bare - Adventures of a Global Entrepreneur
Music on my MP3 player: No power
For more info about Fredrik, check out his website: www.fredrikericsson.com

Sponsors: Dynastar, Tierra, Osprey, Hestra, Grivel, Adidas Eyewear
Supporters: Tissot, Giro, Scarpa, Primus, Garmin, Honey Stinger, Ortovox, Exped, Jämtport
Photos: Michele Fait

All photos (number: 1)

(4.06.2009)
K2 and Laila Peak Ski Expedition 2009

This summer I’m going to Pakistan with my Italian friend Michele Fait to try to climb and ski the world’s second highest mountain K2 (8612m).
As acclimatization for K2 we will make an attempt to ski Laila Peak (6069m).
The expedition starts on May 30 when we will fly to Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. We will spend a few days in the city for meetings with the Pakistan Alpine club to organize climbing permit and with our trekking agency Karakurum Magic Mountain (KMM). KMM helps us with all the logistics in Pakistan and will set us up with a base camp team that will cook food for Michele and I when we are in base camp.

From Islamabad we have a one hour flight up north to Skardu, the last town before we hit the mountains. Skardu is our last opportunity to pick up gear and food that we need for our two months stay in the mountains. Epi gas for our Primus stoves, chips and chocolate bars are some of the things we will buy in Skardu. From Skardu a five hours drive takes us to the small village of Hushe at the end of the road. From there on we will continue on foot. Around June 6 we start the two days trek towards Laila Peak.

Laila Peak is one of the most beautiful mountains in Pakistan - if not the world -with its summit forming a perfect needle shape. The peak is synonymous with its northwest face which s down the mountains at almost uniform gradient forming a giant ramp. Its northern and eastern sides consist of contrasting steep granite. The mountain is located east of the Gondogoro glacier and west of the Chogolisa Glacier in the Masherbrum Mountains of Baltistan. Most people have set eyes on the peak after crossing the Gondogoro La from Concordia.

The first ascent was by a four man British team including Simon Yates, Sean Smith and Mark Miller who climbed the peak in 1987 via the west face from the Gondogoro Glacier. Simon Yates dedicated a chapter in his book The Flame of Adventure on the ascent of Laila Peak.

With approximately 1500m ascent the mountain can be climbed in alpine style in one day but many people will choose to bivi on route then summit and descend on the second day. Climbing is mid-grade with an inclination of no more than 55 degrees.

In 2005 Jörgen Aamot and I made two attempts to climb and ski the northwest face of Laila Peak. On both occasions the top section was too icy to ski so we turned around at 5950m and skied down to the Gondogoro Glacier (4500m). It’s my favorite ski descent of all times. Until this day no one has skied from the summit of Laila Peak.

This summer we will spend about two weeks on Laila Peak. It will be the perfect warm-up for K2 and hopefully we can ski from the summit this time.

K2 is the second highest mountain in the world and is located on the border between China and Pakistan. Reinhold Messner called K2 the "Mountain of Mountains" after his ascent in 1979. This pyramid of a mountain is right in the heart of the Karokoram Range and can be seen in its entirety from Concordia. It is at the head of the Godwin Austin Glacier which unites with a second glacier at Concordia to form the famous Baltoro Glacier. It is said to be the ultimate climb, since many consider it to be much more technically challenging than Mount Everest.

The name K2 is derived from the notation used by the Great Trigonometric Survey. On 10 September 1856, Thomas Montgomerie made the first survey of the Karakoram from Mount Haramukh, some 130 miles to the south, and sketched the two most prominent peaks, labeling them K1 and K2.

In 1954 the Italians Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni were the first to summit K2. They climbed the Abruzzi ridge. After the 2008 season K2 has been climbed 298 times but so far no one has managed to make a complete ski descent of K2.

K2 is known as the Savage Mountain due to the difficulty of ascent and the high fatality rate among those who climb it. For every four people who have reached the summit, one has died trying. Among the eight-thousanders, K2 has the second highest climbing mortality rate.

After Laila Peak we will arrive at K2 base camp around June 20. Then we will use about three weeks for acclimatization before we try for the summit. The route we will try to climb and ski is called The Cesen Route and is the south-southeast ridge.

Fredrik Ericsson

Sponsors: Dynastar, Tierra, Osprey, Hestra, Grivel, Adidas Eyewear
Supporters: Tissot, Giro, Scarpa, Primus, Garmin, Honey Stinger, Ortovox, Exped, Jämtport

All photos (number: 2)

(6.05.2009)
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko had been nominated for the prestigious Eiger Award

I’m proud to announce that I and Denis Urubko had been nominated for the prestigious Eiger Award the winner will be presented the 6th June in Grindewald (Swiss). It is an award called “The Oscar of Mountainering”.

The other candidates are Kurt Albert and Daniel H Anker. The winner of the 3 will be decided by you and the people that will vote in internet for the entire month of may. So please spend 5 second of your time and
decide who you prefer and like will be the winner…

http://www.eigerlive.ch/nominationen/voting/

Ciao and Thank you

Simone Moro and Denis Urubko

(14.02.2009)
Simone Moro&Denis Urubko. Video Makalu Winter

Summit video

(5.12.2008)
Help Jim Bridwell

A group of Italian friends and mountain guides has created a fund to help Jim Bridwell, the American climber and mountaineer, overcome a difficult moment.

Jim, who has always been had particular close ties to Italian mountaineering, is 64 years old and is currently going through a rough patch: he recently lost his house due to failed mortgage repayments. This is not only due to the current economic crisis, but also to a mountaineering accident which he hasn't yet entirely recovered from.

A group of mountain guides and friends from Trento, Italy, has created a committee to help this great but unlucky climber overcome this difficult moment.
Those wishing to help can do so by donating to the following bank account:
IBAN IT-64-H-07601-01800-000092800887, in the name of HELP JIM BRIDWELL, 38100 POVO (TN), Italy.

The Comitte has recently been officialised by the Italian Revenue Agency, with the following tax code: 9608136022.

A heartfelt thanks to all those who help.
Giovanni Groaz

Jim Bridwell - a selction of ascents and first ascents

1963 Northeast Buttress, Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, CA, USA
1964 North Buttress 5.10a, Middle Cathedral Rock, first free ascent
1965 Entrance Exam, Arch Rock, Yosemite, CA, USA con Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks and Larry Marshik
1967 East Face, Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, CA, USA with Chris Fredericks
1967 South Central, Washington Column, Yosemite, CA, USA with Joe Faint
1968 T-riple Direct, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Kim Schmitz
1970 New Dimensions, Arch Rock, Yosemite, CA, USA with Mark Klemens
1970 Vain Hope, Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, CA, USA with Royal Robbins and Kim Schmitz
1971 Aquarian Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Kim Schmitz
1972 Nabisco Wall, The Cookie, Yosemite, CA, USA
1973 Straight Error, Elephant Rock
1974 Freestone, Geek Towers, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite, CA, USA
1975 Wailing Wall, Tuolumne Meadows, CA, USA (2nd 5.12 in the USA) with Dale Bard and Rick Accomozo
1975 Pacific Ocean Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske and Fred East
1976 Gold Ribbon, Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, CA, USA with Mike Graham
1977 Bushido, Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA with Dale Bard
1978 Sea of Dreams, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Dale Bard and Dave Diegelman
1978 Zenith, Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA with Kim Schmitz
1979 Southeast Ridge del Cerro Torre (Compressor route), Patagonia, Argentina with Steven Brewer (first ascent in Alpine style of Cerro Torre)
1979 Northwest Face, Kichatna Spire, Alaska Range, USA with Andrew Embick
1981 Zenyatta Mondatta, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Peter Mayfield and Charlie Row
1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face di The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA with Mugs Stump
1982 South Face, Pumori, Nepal with Jan Reynolds and Ned Gilette (winter)
1987 The Big Chill, Half Dome, Yosemite, CA, USA with Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett and Steve Bosque
1988 Exocet VI 5.9 WI6, East Face Cerro Stanhardt, Patagonia with Greg Smith, Jay Smith
1989 Shadows VI 5.10 A5, Half Dome, with Cito Kirkpatrick, Charles Row, William Westby
1989 West Face (VI 5.11b), El Capitan (free ascent)
1999 Oddysey, Gran Capucin, Mont Blanc, Fnech Alps with Giovani Groaz
1999 The Useless Emotion (VII 5.9 WI4 A4), The Bear's Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska, USA with Terry Christensen, Glenn Dunmire, Brian Jonas and Brian McCray May 3-21, 1999
2001 The Beast Pillar, The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA with Spencer Pfinsten

Source: PlanetMountain.com


First foto: Fredrik picking up the tent out of a crevasse.
Second: Fredrik skiing powder with the Yalung glacier in the background.
Third: Fredrik climbing up towards ”The Hump”
(31.10.2008)
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition. No summit on Kangchenjunga

The first day of our summit push on Kangchenjunga gave a big surprise. The weather was nice, the snow was solid to climb on and we were moving easily up to “The Hump“ at 6200 meters where the site for our first camp was. Only one problem, there was no tent where we left it a week ago. The wind had taken it for a little flight about a hundred meters away and dumped it into a crevasse. Luckily we found it and it wasn’t too damaged. A bit of duct tape could fix it.

The second day was a windy day. We made it up to 6800 meters before we got sick of the wind and found a nice crevasse to put our tent in to hide from the wind.

On the third day came the second surprise. Snowfall and whiteout. Totally opposite from the bluebird that the weather forecast promised. Without visibility we became spectators, sitting in our crevasse all day watching the snow piling up outside. The next morning the sun was shining again but it was also 50 cm of fresh snow on the ground. Bearing in mind the previous week of storm winds blasting the snow cover. The fresh snow on top made it ideal for avalanches. The decision to not continue towards the summit was easy to make but it wasn’t fun. We had to give up our hopes for the summit of Kangchenjunga.

Standing at 6800 meters we had 1300 vertical meters of powder skiing ahead of us. But to make it down without getting avalanched we had to use all our experience and all the tricks in the book. There were some scary sections but mostly we could enjoy nice powder turns on one of the world highest mountains in the world. I am disappointed that we didn’t reach the summit but at the same time relieved that we made it down safely. We had a great experience in a beautiful environment and I will definitely return one day to make a new attempt on Kangchenjunga.

We are now packing our gear and getting ready for the week long hike back to civilization Looking forward to a Pizza in Kathmandu.

All photos (number: 6)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.

(29.10.2008)
Moscow climbing worldcup 2008. Provisional programme

PROVISIONAL PROGRAMME:

Friday, 31th BOULDERING
12.00 &ndash 13.00  Opening ceremony
13.00 &ndash Male and female Qualification Starts

Saturday, 1th BOULDERING

11.00 &ndash Semifinal starts(Female, Male)
17.00 &ndash Final starts (Female, Male)
18.30 &ndash Awarding Ceremony flower,

Sunday, 2th SPEED
11.00 &ndashQualification Starts (Female, Male)
15.00 &ndashFinal starts (Female, Male)
17.00 &ndash Awarding Ceremony,
20.00 &ndash Farewell Party (La Sportiva Party)

Place of competitions:
XV International Ski Salon
Moscow, Il&rsquoinka street, 4. Gostiny Dvor


Jurgen relaxing by his tent with Kangchenjunga in the background
(24.10.2008)
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition Update 5. Base Camp Life

At the moment we are stuck in base camp and all we can do is to wait for the weather to change. I’m getting a bit of déjà vu from last year on Dhaulagiri. Acclimatization climbs passed by without any problems but as soon as I‘m ready for the summit the weather changes totally. Last year it was a week of snowfall that stopped me, this year the jet stream has taken over the mountain. For about a week now it’s been around 90 km/h wind up on 8000 meters and that is no place for us to be in those conditions.

Instead we get to hang out in base camp. So how is life in the camp? My home is a big four man tent that I got all to myself. My down sleeping mattress is possible to convert into a nice and comfy chair. That’s where I spend most of my time. Either listening to music, reading a good book or just enjoying the amazing view from my tent. Our tent site is not very exciting. It’s made up of ice, sand and rocks and it’s very uneven. But the mountains surrounding our camp are very impressive. It’s an amphi-theatre of beautiful peaks, from “The Fake Jannu” in the north via Kangbacken, Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga to Talung and Kabru in the south. They are all rising 2000 meters higher than we are. That view is hard to beat.

When I’m not in my tent I’m eating food. Jörgen and I have our own kitchen crew here in base camp. Buddhi, Kansha and Mon are making sure we are stuffed after breakfast, lunch and dinner. They are a good crew. Not only are they cooking good food but they are also laughing at our jokes (we paid extra for that).

Anyway after a week in base camp I’m getting restless and I’m hoping that the wind will calm down soon so that we can pack our gear and head up on the mountain again. This time we will try for the summit of Kangchenjunga (8586m).

Facts:
GPS position
Base Camp: Lat N 27° 40’ 24”
Lon E 88° 05’ 43”
Altitude: 5163 meters

Favorite Norwegian story:
“Why do the Norwegians leave the door open when they go to the toilet”?
“So that no one will look through the keyhole” )

Book that I'm reading: Tissot: The story of a watch company by Estelle Fallet
Music on my MP3 player: Dio - Holy Diver

All photos (number: 3)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.


Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President.
(22.10.2008)
Referencing the president IFSC to Russia climbers before IFSC World Cup finals

It is always a pleasure to return to Russia, one of the cradle of our sport. We have seen so many international events organised in this country, that we feel at home. I also remember years ago, when we were experiencing hard times, but Russia, together with Italy, guaranteed the basis for the future development and the today strengths. Thanks Climbing Federation of Russia!

This year Moscow hosts two IFSC World Cup finals, speed and bouldering, both will be a success, we are sure, and the occasion to celebrate our athletes, coming from all over the world.

The IFSC Paraclimbing Cup is also part of the event. For the IFSC this is an important step forward to show the potentiality of our sport, a little contribution to make a better world.

Let’s climb the world together!

Marco Maria Scolaris
IFSC President


Fredrik on \"The Hump\".
(20.10.2008)
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition - Update 4. Skiing at last

Back in base camp again after a second acclimatization climb on Kangchenjunga. This time it took us only eight hours, instead of four days, to climb the 1000 vertical meters up to Camp 1 at 6250 meters. Being better acclimatized and having a trail to follow makes a big difference.

The weather has been identical to last week. We've had sunshine in the morning and clouds and snowfall in the afternoon. We are happy that we have marked the route with willow wands (bamboo sticks), that way we could easily find the way to C1 even if it was bad visibility almost half the way up there.

The route from "The Hump" (C1) up to "The Great Shelf" (C2) goes down for about a hundred meters then up what we call "The Second Glacier", a steep snow slope with lots of Seracs and Crevasses. Very similar to "The First Glacier" that goes up to C1.

Being a bit lazy and too comfortable in our sleeping bags we were not very quick out of the tent in the mornings. That way we didn't get far before clouds and snowfall stopped us at lunchtime. To our defense: we can feel the winter coming and the nights are getting colder ). With this pace it took us three days from C1 to 6950 meters (almost "The Great Shelf") where we found a nice ridge to set camp on.

At this moment the weather changed and it got very windy. According to Meteotest, that are doing our weather forecasts, the wind was 90 km/h at 8000 meters. Maybe a bit less where we were, but still enough. After a stormy night and when the wind didn't decline the next day we decided to return to BC.

After four days of uphill it was then time for skiing. It felt good to step into the bindings after a long summer and a lot of uphill on this trip. "The Second Glacier" is a nice slope for skiing. It has everything from low angle traverses to 50 degrees sections. Unfortunately the snow wasn't great this time but the scenery made up for that. Anyway, skiing on the slopes of Kangchenjunga was a special feeling.

Both Jörgen and I are in good mood and are acclimatizing well. We are now ready for the summit push and as soon as we get a weather forecast giving us four days of nice weather we will go for it.

All photos (number: 5)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.


Fredrik near camp 1
(13.10.2008)

Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition Update 3. Route to Camp 1!

Climbing an 8000-meter peak is a time consuming project. Not only can it be a long and demanding approach to the foot of the mountain but you also need to spend weeks to get used to the altitude (acclimatize) to be able to climb the mountain. In total Jörgen and I are spending two month to be able to climb and ski on Kangchenjunga.

This Autumn Jörgen and I are the only climbers on the south side of Kangchenjunga. Normally the base camps on the 8000ers are crowded with climbers and on the mountain there are fixed ropes all along the routes. Being alone is great, it gives a more adventurous touch to it. We get to go up on the mountain all by ourselves to search and find a nice and safe route to climb (and ski). I can almost imagine what it was like for the British climbers that first climbed Kangchenjunga in 1955.

From our base camp at 5100 meters we have about 3500 meters up to the summit of the mountain and we will use three camps on the way. During the last four days Jörgen and I have been working our way up to our first camp. It is located at about 6200 meters on a ridge that was named &ldquoThe Hump&rdquo by the first ascensionists. The route goes on a fairly steep glacier that is cracked up by crevasses (cracks) and seracs (ice walls) that we have to navigate around. The routefinding was a bit tricky and the weather didn&rsquot cooperate with us either. Each day it was clear and sunny in the morning but after a only few hours clouds pulled in and it started snowing. Needing good visibility to move higher up we could only manage to ascend a few hundred meters a day. We spent one night at camp one before we returned to base camp. Four days up, three hours down.

Having a good route up to C1 and the fact that Jörgen and I seem to acclimatize well we are getting good confidence for the future. At the moment we are resting in base camp before we are heading up the mountain to continue our acclimatization and trying to figure out the route to Camp 2 at 7000 meters. More news when we are back from C2.

Fredrik.

 

Facts:

GPS position

Base Camp:   Lat N 27° 40&rsquo 24&rdquo

                   Lon E 88° 05&rsquo 43&rdquo

Altitude: 5100 meters

Warmest temp: +36°C

Coldest temp:    -11°C

 

For more info about Fredrik and Jörgen check out their websites:

www.fredrikericsson.com and www.jorgenaamot.no

All photos (number: 4)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.


Fredrik is getting excited to head up to the snow.
(6.10.2008)
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition Update 2: Base Camp at last!

Finally we have reached the Kangchenjunga Base Camp and it was not a walk in the park to get there. We were hoping for eight days of nice walking in the hills and mountains of eastern Nepal. Now 14 days later I know that the Kangchenjunga base camp trek is a bit more complicated than that.

First we were strolling in the sun along rice fields and banana plantations. Then came the Jungle with the leeches. The days got longer and the rainfalls got more frequent. As we moved up to higher altitude the weather and the terrain got nicer. Once in a while I even got a glimpse of a snow capped mountain. Our mood got better but that didn’t stop Jorgen from catching a cold. He got a sore throat and a bad cough that kept him a wake most of the night. To get rid of the cough Jorgen decided to stay a few days in the camp in Tseram (3700m) while the rest of the crew continued. During the trek we had about 20 porters that helped us carry our gear and food. When we came up to the Yalung Glacier that leads up to Kangchenjunga, about half of them didn’t want to continue. With only half the men it took us two days to travel the distance of a normal day. If that wasn’t enough, then came the snow. In one day we got 20 cm snow and that made the rest of the porters give up on us as well. Even though it gave us some problems I totally understand them. Walking on this glacier is no fun at all and 20 cm of snow doesn’t make it more exciting. It’s a mix of sand, rocks and ice and always up or down. Not a single flat spot. The gear the porters show up in is better suited for a sunny day on the beach than on a snowy glacier. I’m impressed that they made it as far as they did. Fortunate for us we were not far from base camp. Jorgen got well and caught up with us and together with our cooking crew: Buddhi, Kansha and Mon we could move up to Kangchenjunga Base Camp.

It feels great to be here at the foot of Kangchenjunga and the view of the beautiful mountains makes the long trek all worthwhile. After 14 days in the jungle and on the moraine Jorgen and I are getting very excited to take out the skis and head up to the snow.

For more info about Fredrik and Jorgen check out their websites:
www.fredrikericsson.com and www.jorgenaamot.no
Fredrik’s sponsors: Dynastar, Osprey, Tierra, Hestra, Adidas Eyewear and Grivel
Supporters: Tissot, Giro, DHL, Exped, Loben Expeditions and Jamtport

All photos (number: 4)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.

(24.09.2008)
Kangchenjunga Ski Expedition: The Adventure has begun

The Adventure has begun. Jorgen and I are now on the trek towards Kangchenjunga base camp. Four days have passed and four days to go to reach camp.
It’s just over a week since we arrived in Nepal. We spent three days in Kathmandu sorting out climbing permit at the ministry of tourism, meetings with journalists and a chat with Elisabeth Hawley, the master of Himalayan climbing statistics. We also bought some gear and food that we will need on the expedition.
Kathmandu is a big and lively city with millions of people. There is a massive amount of cars and motorcycles and the traffic is the most chaotic I’ve ever experienced. It’s interesting to visit Kathmandu but it’s a bit too stressful for a guy like me that is used to the peace and quiet life of northern Sweden.
We continued with a one hour flight to Bhadrapur and a jeep ride via Ilam to Gopetar. After getting delayed one day due to a missing bag on the flight to Bhadrapurwe left Gopetar last Friday and started the trek towards Kanghenjunga, We are now halfway on the eight days trek and it’s not the regular trek that we are used to. We’ve been walking up and down the hills, going through rise- and cornfields, crossing rives on wooden suspension bridges and through the jungle. Jorgen and I have agreed that we are not made for the jungle. It’s warm and moisty, the rocks are slippery and leeches are attacking us from all directions. During the trek we have met a lot of nice people that have been telling us stories about life in Nepal and we have been trying to describe to them what life is like in Europe.
We are now looking forward to leave the jungle and move up to higher altitude and hopefully we will reach base camp in a few days. More news when we arrive.

For more info about Fredrik and Jörgen check out their websites:
www.fredrikericsson.com and www.jorgenaamot.no

Fredrik’s sponsors: Dynastar, Osprey, Tierra, Hestra, Adidas Eyewear and Grivel Supporters: Tissot, Giro, DHL, Exped, Loben Expeditions and Jamtport

All photos (number: 2)

Source: Fredrik Ericsson.

(25.02.2005)
Today, on 25 February Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) yearly award will be presented in Grenoble, France.

All nominees are assembled. In some minutes the hanging committee opens representation of the projects - the most important alpine achievements over the past year.

In the evening just past midnight (Moscow time) the Winners will be announced.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: NOMINEES PIOLET D'OR 2004

(17.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
16.02.2005
Hi, everybody!
Now it's 5 am on local time. We had to cease efforts to ascend Fitz Roy because of an objective danger of the route: a huge ice-fall hangs over the couloir and it's constantly under ice bombardment. We decided to change our plans and to climb Saint Exupery peak (2558m). We are going to start, summit and descend this day. The weather forecast is good for the first half of the day, but for the second is bad. We will try to work faster. Wish us good luck.
Cheerie-bye!

(16.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
Hi, everybody.
Yesterday we descended in Chalten and in the very nick of time - got right into a global climbing party. The party was terrific and we had a great time. As always, Russian songs headed the bill. Alexander's singing already became a legend in Chalten. People recognize him in the street and almost nearly ask for an autograph.

Our climb was rather uneasy - the route appeared very long and difficult. We had to haul a lot of gear as the route includes practically all elements: difficult rock-climbing, AID-climbing, ice and snow climbing. We did our best and showed a good result - for the first day we climbed the ice-fall, made 11 pitches up to the Col and 18 pitches after it and stop to spend the night sitting on a small ledge under the traverse. It was cold but according to the Patagonian measures rather tolerable as it could be much worse. Since the morning we quickly traversed and met a great company of British climbers descending to base camp after four day-climbing the route. They were impressed very much at our technique and speed of climb, and later, on the party they invited us to arrive in UÊ on annual international forum. In the same place we met Slovenian familiar girls Tanya and Monica that had luck this time: they found courage to return after a week-old failure and summited after a three-day climb.

After the traverse we made four pitches more. The sun was already shining with all his might. It was the 4-th day of ideal sun weather. We prayed on good weather and we had it. However it brought us the main problem. Under the sun's rays the summit ice mushroom, hanging above a vertical headwall, began to thaw and crumble. When we got under it, the collapse of ice-blocks drew to a head. Every pitch more and more ice fell from above. Making the 4-th pitch we had to shelter from the ice bombardment with our backpacks for some minutes and to take advantage of a 30-second break to climb some meters more. It became too dangerous. And we decided that living is high and bailed being overpowered by nature. And it was not for nothing. Traversing back and being already in safe place we saw a great ice collapse falling on our route and sweeping away everything on the way. Really, we realized that the danger was over.

Slovene girls descended this dangerous dihedral before us, but they were not such lucky - Monica was rather seriously injured and fractured rib. But all the same, they were very pleased indeed.

For the same reason this day Dean Potter did not manage to summit Torre Egger, Thomas Huber bailed too, the Austrians Toni and Marcus stop climbing Cerro Torre via Maestri -Egger route. Too good weather appeared good-for-nothing for climb in Patagonia.

Now we are reviving in Chalten and plan to leave on Fitz Roy to climb the American route. This time the weather is bad, but according weather forecast we will have a weather window on Monday. And on Monday we will leave Polish camp site at the foot of Fitz Roy. We have no enough time, in a week we have to leave back. So if they do not prove the weather window, we will not climb at all. It will not be easy to get under the route: we have to go through rather dangerous place - a couloir between Fitz Roy and Poincenot with hanging above huge ice seracs. We will try to work quickly.

Wish us of good luck.
Leonid, Alexander, Olga.

(11.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
10.02.2005
Hi! Having climbed the Mountain for two days we had to descend yesterday. We were too close to summit but got into a violent icefall right under the summit mushroom. Thank Heaven we are safe and sound but it was too dangerous there and decided to stop climbing and descend. Now we have a rest. We'll inform you about our further plans.
That's all on for today. Take care.

(7.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
08.02.2005
Hi everybody!
Yesterday we descended to El Chalten. Three days ago we hired horses and moved our base camp (150 kg!) in Camp-Bridwell. Campamento Bridwell at Lago Torre is a very cosy camping area embowered in trees. A stunning view at Cerro Torre massif opens from there. There are a lot of aspiring Cerro Torre climbers and trekkers living there now. Weather was wonderful. However toward evening surprisingly beautiful clouds of fantastic colors and shapes reminding UFOs appeared in the sky. It's the typical sign of an impending storm.

At night there was a nasty turn in the weather indeed, however the next day it improved again and we moved forward to Norwegian-camp at the foot of Cerro Torre. Having humped our heavy backpacks (about 40kg each) we made good time crossing 10 km onto a huge glacier, moraines and loose talus for 11 hours. Well, later we were requited for our uneasy trek.

Dean PotterA good company consisting of Dean Potter and his wife, Thomas Huber, climbers from Austria and Slovenia met us at Norwegos (Norwegian camp). Dean, his wife Stephanie and Thomas told that the Austrians first and they after them were going to start at midnight. And Dean really wanted to b.a.s.e.-jump from Cerro Torre summit.

Tomas HuberTowards evening a Slovene two-woman team returned from ascent to the base camp. Monica and Tanya on hearsay were the first female team summited Fitzroy. They were very pleased and cheerful as they returned safe and sound. The day before (right when we were admiring clouds in Bridwell) they got into a violent storm. They did not have even waterproof gloves and their descent was rather difficult. In spite of the fact that they did not climb the last 4 pitches up to the top and bailed their mood was wonderful. Really everybody here are enamoured of climbing in itself. It does not matter if you manage to summit or not.

Having spent the white night under stones at Norwegos we moved further. Under the plan we had to climb towards the Col where to spend the night. But on our way we were informed on a satellite phone about bad weather forecast for the nearest 3 days. It seemed to be the truth because since the morning the summit was tightened with dark clouds with lightning flashed in. Thus everywhere except for Cerro Torre the weather was good. Fitzroy (just in 3 km) was absolutely clear of cloud. We dropped the backpacks and went further with light baggage - to get limbered up and look at the route condition. On our way we met the Slovenes who bailed their climb due to the bad weather and then Dean Potter and Thomas Huber. They did not want to ask for trouble too climbing through bad weather. Thomas appeared a very pleasant guy, smiling and thanking a lot when we suggested them to throw off the rope for rappelling.

Austrians & SashaThe ice-fall leading to the rocks under the Col was strongly softened under the bright sun. Getting over a bergschrund, we had to climb a hanging wall covered with softened granulated snows. Tools did not hold in general, even when having been hammered on the shaft, they went further deep under pressing. We moved trying to find slices of firm ice, in size of a coin. Probably, the summit ice mush-room is in the same condition. But, as people speak "it's possible".

As the result we climbed halfway up to the col. Rocks were wet with ice sites in places and we climbed in crampons. When small avalanches began to collapse we gave up and descended right up to Bridwell-camp.

Cerro Torre at dawnNow we are in Chalten attached ourselves to an excellent company: Leo Houlding and Kevin Thaw, Thomas Huber singing his songs to a guitar, Dean, cheerful guys from Slovenia and a lot of others. Yesterday we had a good party in our camping singing Russian songs on happy three voices to a guitar too.

Leo and Kevin just summited Fitzroy, Cazarotto route (North ridge). They had expected to climb the route for one day (under the description it's difficultly no more than 6b, and the guys are the real experienced climbers of 8-graded lines). However the route appeared very complex. They had to spend 2 cold nights on the wall without sleeping bags and a stove, meal and water. They were heated putting on backpacks on a head. After they descended Leo was sleeping for two days and then was drinking nonstop one day more. Now he is as sober as a judge, and they'll leave tomorrow for the next climb: this time it is El Mocho turn.

Dean and Stephanie yesterday descended to Bridwell and tomorrow are going to Norwegos. They want to try to summit Cerro Torre all the same. We'll leave tomorrow too. We decided to try to start directly from Norwegos in alpine style not to bivy at the Col. It would be hard. All the route includes about 40 pitches. We'll start at night on Monday. We have a good forecast on Monday - Tuesday, but on Wednesday the weather will start to spoil.

We'd like to hug tight all of you,
Alexander, Leonid, Olga.

(7.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
03.02.2005
Hi, everybody. Today we finally climbed up to Norwegian camp site. It took us rather much time.
People say that there is a bad weather forecast for the day after tomorrow and we do not know really what to do. We need two days to try for the summit.

Tomorrow we will climb hardly upper and spend the night on a shoulder's bergschrund there. Thomas Huber and Dean Potter plan to start climbing in 2 hours and ascend all the night, i.e. tomorrow to reach the top and then Dean Potter wants to make a b.a.s.e.-jump right from the summit.

(3.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
Leonid Kozlov and Alexander Lastochkin reports:
01.02.2005
Our greetings to everybody! Yesterday we reached Base Camp and homed in it. We found a lot of people there. Thomas Huber told us about his brother Alex Huber that had to left home because had wounded his eye (at least the story runs that). Weather has been standing magnificent for three days, and it hurts us that we arrived so late. We are afraid, that good weather will not hold for some days more and we will not have time to ascend. Tomorrow we are going to climb up to Norwegian camp site and , the day after tomorrow we plan to get the Col and if the weather is good we will make a summit push the next day.

That is all there is to it for today.

(1.02.2005)
Expedition of Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Cerro Torre (Patagonia)-2005
29.01.
We flied almost lost-free. Only two backpacks with our belongings, sleeping bags, etc. and a tent were lost en route. But as people say money makes the mare go and we are going to buy needed gear in El Calafate where we will take off tomorrow.

And in Buenos Aires the real summer holds. They are dancing tango in the streets, beggars and paperboys are passing to and fro. The day is sweaty. Tomorrow we take off for El Calafate.

We'd like to hold you in our arms.
Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

30.01.
Things are shaking down rapidly. They found Olga's backpack and delivered it. In an hour our plane departs to El Calafate. Our greetings to everybody.

Today we arrived from Buenos Aires in El Calafate. Cerro Torre and Fitzroy were visible from the plane. The sky is grotesque here. Low torn clouds, absolutely flat, bear heavily on your mind.

As expected we bought all needed things in El Calafate. You can't pick and choose here because practically all the things sold there are made by one local company...

There was only one terrible tent and we had to buy it unconscious of how to use it. But there was no other alternative. And we bought a cool newest down sleeping bag in weight of 700g.

Tomorrow at 7 a.m. we leave in Chalten by bus. This journey will take us for 5 hours.

Alxander, Leonid, Olga.

 

 Ines PapertHarald Berger

(31.01.2005)
Harald Berger and Ines Papert are the World and European Ice Boulder Champions

In the Super Final in Valle di Daone the Austrian and German beat Herbert Klammer from Italy and Natalia Koulikova from Russia.

Simon Wandeler from Switzerland and Jenny Lavarda from Italy placed third.

For full news reports and a great photo gallery by Giulio Malfer, please visit: http://www.daoneicemaster.it/

 

 

www.planetmountain.com

(31.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
30.01.05.

The team successfully summited on January 29!
On January 29 the guys woke up early in the morning (4 a.m.) and started their summit bid. After they climbed the summit bastion and narrow rocky ridge, all the team reached the Kodar's summit at 9.00. Temperature was negative 43, but weather was breathless. That day all of them safe and sound descended to the base camp toward evening.

Such fast ascent's ending appeared unexpected for a lot of fans. We were adjusted for waiting for good news for some days. As it turned out during communication Kodar-Krasnoyarsk Nikolay omitted mention of the bottom 4-5 pitches of an abrupt snow-ice couloir they had climbed. Thus, all the route is really of 22 pitches, extent of its wall part - 17 pitches.

All the plans have been completely accomplished. The team prepares for returning. Term of return depends on helicopter's availability in Taksimo and good weather.

We congratulate and wait for the winners!

(26.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
26.01.05.
We have already climbed a half of the route. We abide by the schedule. On January 24 we made 3 pitches, it's a record for the present time. Yesterday we made only one pitch. Today two-man team of Dmitrienko and Tsyganov is next in turn to fix the rope on the route. In total, since 19 of January we made 13 pitches - it's approximately a half of the route. Yesterday the team in its full complement took off and now is making themselves at home in a tent settled in a small rocky niche that was found in the area of 12-th pitch.

We decided not to take off the fixed rope for extreme descent in case of bad weather. Today is negative 34, but a thermometer has already registered -38 and-40 degrees centigrade. The wall is very cold and all ice-covered due to its exposition: within all the day any stream of sun does not reach its slopes. Large monolithic blocks, corners, chimneys are characteristic parameters of wall's terrain structure. It's hard to organize a safe belay. We use sky-hooks to climb very firm granite plates, but it's really difficult. Steepness is up to 80 degrees in places, but the top part of the route seems more abrupt on the average.

Everything is lovely in the base camp. The warmed tent Rock Pillars is worth its keep. When it's made up the fire in it we have about +20 inside. Under the wall we dug a good cave for 6 people. The area is very interesting, wild: there is not any local habitation, hunting shelters or man's traces. Loginov and Sikilinda climbed a beautiful winter 5B-graded route on the next (left) mountain spending 2 days for fixing the rope and one day for the summit push. The other free members of our expedition climbed less complex routes 1B- and 2A-graded.

We keep shootings a film about our expedition. In spite of the fact that the camera is frequently freezing, we have already shot an hour and a half. Misha Vershinin actively works. Now it's full of the moon, and Mike is shooting even in the moonlight. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to send photos. And we can only receive SMS-messages but not send them.

Keep in touch with us!

24.01.05.
For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. For two days the guys made two complex pitches more. In total 9 pitches are climbed. Firm granite, cold, ice-covered rocks. Today Prokof'ev and Belyanin are working. They have to find a convenient site for the first hanging camp. Temperature is negative 30.

(26.01.2005)
New world champions in ice-climbing. January, 21-22, The 2nd World Championships for Difficulty- and Speed Ice Climbing and the 1st Swiss Ice Climbing Masters in Difficulty and Speed, Saas-Fee, Switzerland.

In ice-climbing organizers do not want to peddle cups: if they carry out something it will be a championship. The results of World Championship-2005 were summed up: Austrian Hari Berger and Petra Muller from Switzerland won Difficulty and Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Natalia Kulikova from Russia were the first in speed.

Results

Difficulty. Men

1 BERGER Hari (Austria)
2 ANTHAMATTEN Simon (Switzerland)
3 LEICHTFRIED Albert (Austria)

4 BENDLER Markus (Austria)
5 ANTHAMATTEN Samuel (Switzerland)
6 WANDELER Simon (Switzerland)
7 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
8 ODERMATT Urs (Switzerland)

Difficulty. Women

1 MULLER Petra (Switzerland)
2 PAPERT Ines (Germany)
3 MAUREAU Stephanie (France)

4 BUCHMANN Kirsten (Germany)
5 TORRETTA Anna (Italy)
6 EYER Alexandra (Switzerland)
7 FILIPPOVA Maryam (Russia)
8 SHABALINA Maria (Russia)

Speed. Men

1 KRYVOSHEYTSEV Evgeny (Ukraine)
2 FAYZULLIN Igor (Russia)
3 CHVED Nikolai (Russia)

4 HOFER Lars (Switzerland)

Speed. Women

1 KOULIKOVA Natalia Russia
2 OLEINIKOVA Joulia Russia
3 TORRETTA Anna Italy

Photo: Hari Berger. Author: Giulio Malfer,
www.planetmountain.com

(24.01.2005)
On Saturday January, 22, Sergey Borisov was killed in an automobile accident in Ekaterinburg. I do not know, what I can add any more. Suddenly I realized that I have nothing to say if it happens to my friends... because it is not right..

Sergey Borisov

Master of Sport of International Grade
For a long time he was the captain of Sport Club of Army of Ural military region.
He became four times champion of USSR, twice champion of Russia, numerous prize-winner of different national championships.

The last climber who was called as "The best climber of the USSR" (1990 and 1991) just before USSR's disintegration.

1990 - won the USSR championship in a technical class (Fanskie mountain) having ascended 8 summits for 13 days (six 5B-graded routes and two 6À).

1991 - the USSR championship, a rocky class, Karavshin gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Alexander Klenov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Bruk, Igor Bugachevsky, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Solodovnikov summited peaks "Slesova", "Asan" and won "the gold".

1991 - the USSR championship, a technical class, Aksu gorge of the Turkestansky ridge. The team of Sergey Borisov, Alexander Klenov, Michael Brook, Michael Donskikh, Alexander Kolesov, Alexander Limarenko summited Admiralteets, Iskander, A.Blok and won "the gold".

2002 - Everest via Northern col.

2004 - Jannu North Face, summiter

(24.01.2005)
Kodar-2005

22.01.05
Everything is turning out well. We dug a cave and sorted out the problem of fire wood. Three two-man teams (Prokofiev-Belyaev, Dmitrienko-Tsyganov, Tsygankov - Cherezov) worked alternating on the route for 3 days and made 7 pitches. It became warmer a little, -20, snowfalls. The Wall is ice- and snow-covered.

21.01.05
It's snowing, temperature is -20. 5 pitches are made.

19.01.05
Kodar-2005. Nikolay Zakharov called: We continue to make our base camp more comfortable. There is a lot of snow. We clear away the beaten track to the wall. It's -35. Our greetings to everybody!

(24.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
20.01
Till the end this expedition was very hard…
After the summit and the attempt form Jacek and Darek, they braked for the horrible wind and temperature (more than - 40 degree) it begins to snow and it bad weather continue. We decided to try to go to Nyalam, the first village, where we did start our trek one month ago. There we will take the jeeps to Kathmandu.

The day before we start our descent adventure we lost our Kitchenboy Chiring, who went to ABC to take down the last things….. In the evening he didn’t come back to BC and we was very worry…. All together we went out in the darkness and the storm, looking for him. We thought about the worst, because the temperature was very low and it had snow a lot. Luckily Chiring organised by himself one bivac 2 ours far from BC, when he understood the difficulty of the situation. But we pasted a very bad night….

The they after we Chiring arrived in BC and we all were very happy to see him. But one other dramatic adventure was starting. At 12:30 we started from BC at 5200 meters to Nyalam at 3750 and 25 km far. Nobody from us thought, that only after some ours we would find storm, - 30 degree, fog and snow sometimes till our waist!!! We needed 14 ours without stop, fighting with the elements and in the darkness, before we arrived with totally cold in Nyalam. My small finger is black and all the other fingers I have only partially sensibility. The others are only tired from the exhausting work and some small frostbite in the face (also I have….). More than one time we finished in the icy water from the river, because he was covert by thin ice and snow, that broken when we passed over. Other times the snow was so deep and powdery near to impossible to go on. At 3:30 Peking time Piotr and I reached the place where we slept when we did go up. The others came a little later and at last Jan after some ours. I think our looks were not so nice, because the people observed us long…..

The day after we droved by the jeep to Zangmu, the boarder to Nepal. There we take showers and sauna for 3 ours non-stop!!!

Today we arrived at Kathmandu. On more shower and now we are preparing to go out from our Hotel and I want to eat a big beef and make party for be back to the normality.

P.S. Today, the 20th of January the CTMA certificated our summit with the sentence “first winter Summit” as the first winter summit from Shisha Pangma, maked by Simone Moro ITA and Piotr Morawski POL at the 14th of Januray

 

Svetlana Boldykova(24.01.2005)
From January 15-23, 2005 the 2005 Snowboard World Championships took place in Whistler, Canada.
On January 18 Russians sportsmen showed good results: at Women's Parallel Giant Slalom (PGS - Olympic discipline) Svetlana Boldykova became the second, Ekaterina Tudigescheva - the forth and at Men's Parallel Giant Slalom Denis Salagaev was the ninth.

On January 19 at Parallel Slalom Denis became only 13th and Svetlana - 12th. The world championship is carried out twice a year.

And against rather sad results of Russian skiers in technical sports (slalom, giant slalom) success of our snowboarding team is impressing.

 

 

(24.01.2005)
Ines Papert breaks record in Ouary Ice Park, USA
Igor Ivashura, CYKHAX ENT, Munich, informs:
This girl just went and did that left behind all the monsters of ice-climbing and showed the best result among men and women on the tenth annual "Ouary Ice Festival" (USA)!!!

Ines Papert won Difficulty event with the best time 19:53 and thousand spectators could enjoy her sending the most complicated mixed line in the artificial ice canyon. She was the unique women made TOP - really that was not a sensation, but that fact that her time was the best by the end of the competitions went through like a packet of salts! A cool Canadian athlete Will Gadd yielded this fragile German girl almost for two minutes, and Harry Berger from Austria - much more than that. It is fair to say that Will Gadd sent a final line without "Heelhooks" manner and that took much more time to send. Well, this result and sending the route of "Vertical Limit" are confirmed Ines's high class and unconditional leadership among all the masters of frozen water.

The tenth annual festival "Events in Ouary" (Salt Lake City, Utha) became unqualified success of its Organizers, some thousand spectators were obvious confirmation to that. The conditions for ice-climbing in Ouary canyon were simply phenomenally good. And slide shows and a fashion parade of exclusive sports mark "Arc'teryx" completed even without that interesting evening programs.

Ines's result is really unique.

The Chief of Black Diamond European branch said: "Ines is very cool. I do not know any woman in athletic sports in which a girl could become better, than the best man!"

Total report

Men
1 22:47 WILL GADD
2 23:10 HARRY BERGER
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
5 20:20 ALJAZ ANDERJLE
6 14:13 JARED OGDEN
7 18:52 SEAN HUISMAN
8 15:45 RICH PURNELL
9 10:40 DALE REMSBERG
10 17:59 SONNIE TROTTER
11 13:28 VINCE ANDERSON
12 12:19 LOUIS JULIENNE ROY
13 16:42 ADAM STACK
14 6:50 RYAN NELSON
Women
1 19:53 INES PAPERT ALL ALL
2 14:05 KIRSTEN BUCHMANN
3 20:10 AUDREY GARIEPY
4 16:14 ANNA TORRETTA
5 13:53 SUE NOTT
6 14:54 KRISTIE AREND
7 10:15 ISABELLE SANTOIRE
8 11:35 SHELLY HUISMAN
9 8:50 ABBY WATKINS

Photo - www.bergsteigen.at

(21.01.2005)
Georgian Mountain, Adventure and Extreme Film Festival N I A M O R I
In January-March 2005, in Georgia (former Soviet Union) Tbilisi will host the second annual Mountain Film Festival “Niamori”
Details

 

(19.01.2005)
Kodar-2005
18.01.05 Zakharov called from base camp:
16.01 The bad weather was.
17.01 We finally got to the area of ascent. The gorge is so narrow that the helicopter could not find any convenient site to land and we were dropped in deep snow from a hovering helicopter.

The Wall justifies our expectations: impressive, severe, tempting. It's very abrupt and has altitude difference not less than 1000m. We set a camp in 3 kilometers from the Wall. Woodland is insignificant there.

Today the part of our team went downwards the gorge for preparation of fire wood for the stove, and the others went to break trail to Wall's foot. Yesterday the temperature in Taksimo was negative 40, but in the gorge it is a little bit warmer.

Our greetings to everyone who is a fan of us!

14.01.2005 Our Expedition started.

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Kodar range, Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW wall

(18.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma. First wimter ascent
18.01
Bad weather. Since 3 days is snowing and obviously the yak can not start from Nyalam and come to base camp to take all our equipment and transport to the village that is 25 km from here. In the meantime we celebrate the success play cart, or chess, reading books and also waiting boring for the sun....

Portfolio

 

(17.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
15.01
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.

One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

(14.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
14.01
Summit!
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited today at 13.15. We followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Yesterday we fixed ropes to the col, set up the Camp II, and today we decided for a summit push. The wind was strong, reaching 30-35 m/s. After 5 hours of fast climbing we summited.

This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history (callendar winter started 21st December) and we can truly say that in typical winter conditions (strong wind, no snow, a lot of ice). Now only six 8000 meters peaks are waiting for its first winter ascents...


13.01
Simone and Piotr reached the col and put up Camp 2 on 7400!
Today morning we took the tent (heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable), sleeping bags and food. We climbed very fast because we wanted to reach the col. On 7300 we started also to fix. Most of today climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). When we reached the col it was already in shadow, and it was extremely cold. During setting up the tent we observed that a part of the ridge is little protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind. A big part of the ridge is of course not protected, but... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers!...

Simone and Piotr

(14.01.2005)
Petites Jorasses. First free climbing "Omega" route Britons Nick Bullock and Stuart MacAleese became the third team climbed historical Patrick "Gab" Gabarrou's and Ferran Latorre's route "Omega" on Petites Jorasses (Mt. Blanc), (700m, VI/5+,A3).

It is worthwhile to say that Nick and Stuart sent the route clean, i.e. free climbed. Nick already tried the route last year but fell and broke his anklebone, and this year he returned there with MacAleese to have luck again on 13-pitch mixed route. All the route took them four days, from which two full days they were climbing.

http://desnivel.com/

 

(14.01.2005)
Ice-climbing. Jenny Lavarda and Hannes Pfeifhofer are the champions of Italy
The second stage of the Italian Ice-climbing championship "ITALIAN ALPINE CUP" finished at the last weekend in Val Passiria .
At men having got over all the grandees and merited runners as Bubu Mauro Bole and Herbert Klammer Hannes Pfeifhofer, a 18-year climber, unexpectedly won the gold.
Jenny Lavarda, having switched off from rock-climbing on ice in this winter season, took part at such events for the first time and won by a head. Silvia Cian is the second and Monica Gemelli- the third.

http://www.planetmountain.com/

 

 

(14.01.2005)
GRANDES JORASSES. Linceul (4208m). Winter solo
Ferran Martínez is the Spanish climber soloed the "great classics" of GRANDES JORASSES: Linceul. Some days later his climb was repeated by other Spanish climber Eloi Callado.

http://desnivel.com/

 

 

(14.01.2005)
The fifth summit under the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter" has been climbed
Sergey Shchepachkov informs:

On January, 9, 2005 a team of climbers (Ivan Artemov, Ivan Alentsev, Victor Afanasyev, Andrey Bukin, and Oleg Bibin) summited Mt. Kazbek (5033m) within the framework of the project "Caucasus Five thousand-Mountains in Winter".
Weather during the ascent held ideal. I got cold and had to stop climbing and left the team during the summit push. Proshchenko Maxim and Grishnjachy Leonid had to abandon the team too. The route line went from Northern Ossetia side, through Genaldonskoe gorge via Pastukhova route.

(14.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
12.01
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.

 

 

(13.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
12.01
All the night the wind shook the tents and it was difficult to sleep. Also the mountain was very loud, showing what the hell is going up. In the morning we wait for the sun and then we crowed from our sleepingbags.
Today the sky was with no clouds, but cold wind was stopping us, especially on plateau. Now we are sitting in the tent of Camp 1 and prepare for tomorrow: very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col...

Simone and Piotr

(12.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
11.01
Going up! The next attack to the mountain has just begun. We're sitting (Simone and Piotr) already in ABC (5600). After a few days rest Darek and Jacek are also going up.

The wind is still blowing with terrible force. But we'd like to reach the col (about 7300) and hope to set up Camp 2 behind the col. Today, during the way to the ABC we were watching a wind smoke on the summit ridge, and we didn't want even to think what was up there...

Also the south wall of Shisha has totally changed character comparing to that 2 weeks ago: instead of snow we could see big fields of pure ice!

(11.01.2005)
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
10.01
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.

 

(11.01.2005)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
10.01
First day of the week and, as the weather forecast said, will be the same all the rest of the week: windy!!. The wind continue to be strong and for the next weekend Karl Gabl from Innsbruck said that the speed could arrive also to 180 km/h!!!! "be patient" said Karl, but for us is difficult to be...

We are in a good physical condition and motivation is high... In any case we will follow his advise and Piotr and I will go tomorrow "only" to try to finish to fix all the route till the ridge at 7300 and fix C2. Than we will be back in base camp waiting for good news from Karl and his perfect forecast.

09.01
Wind, wind, strong wind. Today the force of the wind is extremely high. We decided to reinforce with ropes and big stones the kitchen tend and dining tend. The store tend brake this morning for the strong wind. The birds already brake many tends (also in C1) looking for food so we don't want to have other damages to our equipment. At 10 am we get contact with Darek and Jacek that still were in C1.

Yesterday they get a really hard job and difficult conditions and this morning was difficult to take decision to left the sleeping bags and start for the descent to ABC and BC. Jan also started to come down from ABC to BC and this evening we will be all together here at 5200 meter of Base Camp. Tomorrow we will take decision and strategies for the next important week....

08.01
Another day of extreme cold and strong wind, but Darek and Jacek did a great job. They carried 400 meters of rope till 7200 and fix 100 of those. It had been not enough to reach the ridge but it is closer and closer.... Now Darek and Jacek "sleep" in C1 and tomorrow they probably came down to ABC or BC to take a good rest. I and Piotr continue to eat and get rest to be ready after a few days to set C2 and maybe make already a first summit attempt....

Yesterday we finished to repair one of the 3 tends we get in ABC that had been seriously broken from the big hungry birds. The birds were looking for food and brake all the tends, without find any food (we left especially in a plastic drum). Maybe the damage is a revenge....?

07.01
Yesterday we get a terrible cold and difficult day but at the end we reached 7200 m. Piotr and I dreamed to stand up of the ridge but we finished the fix rope at 50/100 m of altitude to the ridge. We have to set 200/300 m rope still. We would like to observe the last 700 meters of difference between the col and the summit. In our plan after rest, we want to fix a tend on the col at 7350 meter and spend night to acclimatise well and also using that point as the starting point for the summit. Today Piotr and I came back to Base camp and we will remain 3 days to get a full rest. Yesterday we get -40° degree and strong wind and we need time to find again the energies to work. Darek and Jacek today carried up 400 meters rope till C1.

Tomorrow they will try to carry higher.... Cross the finger for us.... The next 1/2 weeks will be extremely important for the climb.
FOTO: Cold in the tend

05.01
The winter now is here completely...
Wind was attacking us all the day. On the morning temperature was about -30 degree Celsius in the ABC at 5600 m.

Darek and Jacek were working all the day above the C1 (6550 m). They probably reached 6800 m, foot of the last few hundreds meters of couloir.
Today Simone and Piotr carried equipment to C1, also the tent for Camp 2, which should stand on the col.

Our route occured longer than we expected and with ropes we already have up, it will be difficult to reach the col. But we will do our best.

04.01
The good weather returned. After 4 days of storm and cold, today we saw again the sun. It had been a cold night but the morning sun get us the possibility to continue to work on the mountain. Unfortunately with the sun is arrived also the strong wind in high altitude and in the next weekend the speed will be over 40 m/sec (160 km/h). Today Darek and Jacek went to ABC and tomorrow they will reach the tend we set at 6600 m. They will spend night and the day after will try to climb higher. Piotr and I will follow them tomorrow and for the week end we dream to reach the end of the face ad set the tend on the ridge at 7200 m. The problem will be the wind... but we will try to do our best to resist. Yesterday we get the first technical problem.

Our generator stopped to work and "get frostbite". Piotr and Jan today made a surgery operation and they obtain to get 12 volt power from it. Together my solar pannel we should continue to give enough energy to our camp...

01.01.2005
Is arrived also here at base camp the midnight but nobody was in the dining tend waiting for it. We was too tired and was to cold and we decided to go in our warm sleeping bags and sleep deeply. Also today the weather is bad with wind and snow and it should be the same also for the next 2 days.

Karl Gabl (our Austrian Guru for the weahter forecast) said to be patient and to call him Monday in Innsbruck. We will have our next weather forecast and we hope to have good news...

We wish again a nice 2005 full of smiling moments...

31.12
After 4 days climbing along the Jugoslavian route on Shisha Pangma, we came back to Base Camp. Storm and bad weather obliged us to turn back. I and Piotr spent nigh at 6550 and today we planned to go near 7000 meters but this was impossible. So from 6550 we came directly back to 5200 meters of base camp (log way....)

Last night the wind and the cold had been a good test for our capacities. The bad weather should persist for the next 3/4 days and we will take a good rest and "charge our motivations and determination". Tonight we will celebrate the new year and we wish to all of you a 2005 in health and without any polemic...

Have a nice 2005!! and I hope you will continue to follow the adventures from me and my friends also in 2005.

On the way to C1(31.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
30.12
We (Simone and Piotr) started today early. In our rucksacks we had ropes, climbing equipment, tent, sleeping bags, food and all what is necessary for setting a camp. The wind came and the weather is changing. After a few hours we reached the point which Darek and Jacek left depot in. We took also those things and heavy loaded we came under the big serac, below huge crevasse where we found a good place for our Camp I. The altitude is about 6550.

Tomorrow we'd like to work higher. Now the weather is quite good, a lot of clouds, sometimes sun and the wind is shaking our tent, but not blowing us out from the wall.

Ciao, Simone

(27.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
24.12
Finally we reached base camp of the south face of Shisha pangma. We trek 2 days together with our carovan of 32 yaks and yesterday afternoon we arrived here at 5250 meters.

Today we worked to fix all the tends of base camp and fix them with ropes and big stones to avoid that wind brake them during next storms. Tonight we will celebrate our Christmas and Jan prepared a nice Christmas tree in the dining tend. Tomorrow we probably go to ABC and back to BC, to carry some equipment.

We wish all of you our greetings and Marry Christmas!!!

base camp

Simone, Jan, Darek, Piotr, Jacek

(22.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma
22.12
Today we finaly start from Nyalam. Yesterday we hardly discuss with the yak drivers and Laison officier about the weight that each yak can carry and price of the extra yak we have to take. The yak drivers said that each yak can carry 40 kg. but the truth is that 60 kg is the normal weight agreed since ever with them and TMA. In this way we discussed for some hours and at the end we agreed that we will take and pay 10 extra yaks and other 5 extra will be paid from TMA. Totally we started this morning wiht 32 yaks to transport our 1606 kg of equipment, gas, kerosene, food and all necessary to remain for 2 month at B.C and on high camps. The weather is still good even the temperature went down in compare of one week before.
Ciao Simone and all team

21.12
I left my computer and modem behind in the bin. Instead, I'm writing with Piotr's PC because he's come up on the roof of the hostel where we're staying in order to send messages. We're sentries up here…

We arrived in Nyalam today. We left yesterday because today there was supposed to be a strike with numerous blockades on the street from Kathmandu to the border. Unfortunately, although we left yesterday we still had problems half an hour before Kodhari (on the border of Nepal and China). A military street blockade with a barbed wire and machine gunners lined up forced us to wait until the next day to continue. We were able to sleep in a small private house and eat in a hut for the Nepalese.
The block was due to an armed clash with Maoists a few hours prior to our arrival, which had killed 11 people! This morning we left and passed the "Friendship Bridge," crossing into Tibet. We met Dawa, the liason officer and Nawang, who was the liason officer for JC Lafaille. He told us that the French alpinist had arrived in Tibet on the 11th of November.

A few days ago, before returning to Nepal, he gave Lafaille the certificate which proves his climb to the peak at 14:00 on December 11th, but he did not write "WINTER EXPEDITION" even though the Frenchman insisted he write it because he didn't consider it a winter climb. Nawang says that he has 10 years of expedition experience in all 4 seasons and Lafaille's climb was not to be registered with the TMA as a "WINTER EXPEDITION" but as "LATE AUTUMN." Anyone can contact Nawang at the TMA in order to confirm this.

The French alpinist got his Chinese Visa extended because he only intended to stay 30 days and as he entered Tibet and started the expedition before December 1st, he acted with the normal autumn permission. With all this news and clarification, added to the scientific one of the world season calendar which says that winter starts the 21st of December, we must consider that Shisha Pangma has never been conquered in winter. Now it's up to us to see if this climb is possible…
Bye, Simone

Translation by Jonathan Etes

(17.12.2004)
German TOP-climbers Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz did not sustained the most severe gale-force wind and bailed their first ascent Murallon, North face, (Patagonia).

Having stayed for some days in only 150 meters up to the summit waiting for the weather window, the guys began their sad descent.

www.robert-jasper.de

(15.12.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Pangma.
Our trekking to go back to Kathmandu began today. Now we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla and 1 or 2 members will spend other 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet Jan Szulc that should be in Namche as he arrived 1 week later than us in Nepal.

Today we navigated in internet to see how is going with the news about the JC Lafaille climb on Shisha. With huge surprise we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!!!!! We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route cross the number 5 and 6). We didn't considered that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit, and our line had been only the physiological variant in order to the ice and weather conditions. In any case we sent many photos already one years ago to my web site and the most important world web site and our line and story should be well known.

In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him for the tactics.....
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. The world is already full of wars and problems and we believe that should be stupid to increase the "bordel" with extra stupid discussion.

Simone, Darek, Piotr

(14.12.2004)
On 12 December Jean-Christophe Lafaille returned to the base camp after his challenge summit (on December 11) Shishapangma.

It is the first successful ascent on Shishapangma (8047m) done solo and without supplementary oxygen.

The information is provided by Katia Lafaille, France, www.jclafaille.com

 

 

 

(7.12.2004)
International calendar for ice-climbing competitions, 2005 season

 

 

 

 

MRAZEK Tomas
CHABOT Alexandre
PETRENKO Maxim
 EITER Angela
SARKANY Muriel
SHALAHINA Olha

(24.11.2004)
World Cup 2004 Top-10

Men
1. MRAZEK Tomas CZE 560.00
2. CHABOT Alexandre FRA 516.00
3. CRESPI Flavio ITA 333.00
4. PETRENKO Maxim UKR 322.00

5. USOBIAGA Patxi ESP 317.00
6. POUVREAU Gérome FRA 291.00
7. MILLET Sylvain FRA 268.00
8. FUSELIER Mickael FRA 249.00
9. VERHOEVEN Jorg NED 248.00
10. PUIGBLANQUE Ramón Julián ESP 240.00

Women
1. EITER Angela AUT 535.00
2. SARKANY Muriel BEL 525.00
3. EYER Alexandra SUI 364.00

4. GROS Natalija SLO 364.00
5. CIAVALDINI Caroline FRA 356.00
6. SCHÖPF Bettina AUT 345.00
7. LAVARDA Jenny ITA 299.00
8. VIDMAR Maja SLO 287.00
9. CUFAR Martina SLO 286.00
10. SHALAHINA Olha UKR 245.00

(22.11.2004)
World Cup. Latest Stage. Kranj, SLO

Men
1. Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
2. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov (RUS)
3. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

Women
1. Angela Eiter (AUT)
2. Natalija Gros (SLO)
3-4. Maja Vidmar (SLO)
3-4. Sandrine Levet (FRA)

(16.11.2004)
Simone Moro. Shisha Winter
Everything is working well here in preparing the expedition. Monday will flight to Kathmandu our cargo with equipment and food we will use during the 2month expedition. I and my friends planned to go in Khumbu valley for a trekking to Everest base camp and easy climbs for acclimatisation in the areas.

After that we will start by road to Kodhari- Zangmu and Nyalam and from that village we will trek till the Shisha Pangma south face base camp.

Only at base camp we will decide the route we will attempt. We want to see directly the snow condition of the face and the weather forecast we will have from Innsbruck from my personal friend Karl Gabl.

Herewith I'm sending you the postcard I prepared for our expedition. I dind't received yet the cable but I took free all next week to realize all the procedure and training with iPAQ and Contact 3.0. Keep in touch

About expedition

(15.11.2004)
UIAA Worldcup Difficulty Event Brno (CZE) 2004. Results.
The Winners - Flavio CRESPI, Italy, and Alexandra EYER, Switzerland. At men Tomas MRAZEK, CZE, and Alexandre CHABOT, France, are the second and the third accordingly. And at women the Russian Olga SHALAGINA (!!!) is the second and Maja VIDMAR, Slovenia is the third.

See all the results http://www.digitalrock.de

 

(11.11.2004)
Fred Rouhling opens his new line Mandallaz drive, 9à
Fred Rouhling has just declared about his successful redpoint of the new project in d'Allonzier la Caille - Mandallaz drive, 9à.
In 1993 only lazy did not mock Fred when he declared the first French 9à, Hugh line. However in 2001, 8 (!) years later, the category was confirmed by Italian climber Alessandro Lamberti.
1995 "Practically everyone in this world had to doubt of his judiciousness" - It is about Fred Rouhling and his challenging Akira, 9b. Do you really think the world delightfully looked into his eyes?
1997 l'Autre Cote du Ciel (The other side of the sky), the second 9à, sent by Fred. Then everything went without any autographs....
3d "9a" of Fred was Fred Nicole's "bain de sang"
2004 Mandallaz drive, 9à. Who would doubt... Go, Fred! :)

http://kairn.com

(11.11.2004)
INTERNATIONAL CALENDAR FOR SKI MOUNTAINEERING COMPETITIONS 2004- 2005 SEASON

(9.11.2004)
Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton
On October 5, the two climbed six new pitches, totaling about 1,000 feet of thin ice and mixed climbing. The new route, which is unnamed, started just left of the classic North Face route and ended at the Hossack-McGowan Couloir, which they followed to the East Ridge and eventually reached the summit.
The crux was found on the second pitch, where unprotectable ice forced Koch into a soaking-wet, “womb-like feature” behind the ice until he could bust through and pull a roof to easier ground. He spent the next belay wringing out his clothes and pouring water out of his boots. A sudden storm then dumped buckets of graupel, which cascaded down the face in “one of the most spectacular sights I have witnessed in the mountains,” Koch said. When the storm stopped, they continued upward through four more good pitches of ice, including a winding WI 5 pitch that Koch called the nicest ice pitch he has ever done on a mountain route.

http://climbing.com

(4.11.2004)
Rating of rock-climbers - the world leaders. Bouldering. Speed. Difficulty
In bouldering and speed the sportmen have been already put in their places, "all sweets" are given away, in difficulty there are two events more ahead...

UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2004

Bouldering

Women
1. Sandrine Levet, France
2. Olga Bibik, Russia
3. Julia Abramchuk, Russia

Men
1. Daniel Dulac, France
2. Kilian Fischhuber, Austria
3. Jerome Meyer, France

Speed

Women
1. Tatyana Ruyga, Russia
2. Anna Saulevich, Russia
3. HENDRAWATI Agung Ethi, INA

Men
1. Sergey Sinitsyn, Russia
2. Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky, Russia
3. Alexander Peshehonov, Russia

Difficulty. The current rating

Women
1. Muriel Sarkany, Belgium
2. Angela Eiter, Austria
3. Bettina Schopf, Austria

Men
1. Tomas Mrazek, Czechia
2. Alexandre Chabot, France
3. Gerome Pouvreau, France

All results http://digitalrock.de

(2.11.2004)
Rock Climbing. World Cup in Valence, France. Difficulty.
The winners

Men
1. CHABOT Alexandre FRA
2. Bindhammer Christian Germany
3. MRAZEK Tomas CZE
4. FUSELIER Micha FRA
5. AUCLAIR Fran FRA
Women
1. Muriel Sarkany Belgium
2. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
2. CUFAR Martina SLO
4. Jenny Lavarda ITA
5. Angela Eiter AUT

The leaders of Big Cup Mrazek and Sarkany. Chabot and Eiter are the second.

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