Pumori. The route line

There is a set of routes lead to Pumori summit, two of which are considered as the classical ones. The route via Southeast ridge is the most simple. Nevertheless, it is the most dangerous in a post - monsoonal period and ice collapses from a shoulder of the southeast ridge overhangs climbers. Taking into account winter time of our coming ascent, we choose this route considering that the risk of ice collapses would be minimal in winter because of low temperatures and a long absence of snowfalls during this period.

The team:
Belousov Vladimir (Odintsovo), expedition leader

Dobrinsky Pavel (Moscow),

Rylsky Ilya (Krasnogorsk),

Paramonov Dmitry (Moscow),

Glebov Vyacheslav (Moscow)

Map of the area:

Sponsors:
OCS

Information support:
Mountain.RU

"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition

Russian

News:

(17.01.2005) new! 15.01 Vladimir Belousov informs: Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500 and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend. One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to all of you.

(14.01.2005) 12.01 Vladimir Belousov reports: 12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously improved then last year.

(11.01.2005) 10.01 Vladimir Belousov reports: Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.

Pumori

Names: Pumori (or Pumo Ri)
Elevation (meters): 7165
Latitude: 28 ° 00 ' 53 “ N
Longitude: 86 ° 49 ' 41 “ E
Location: Himalaya, Nepal Asia; on Nepal -Tibetan boundary, in 8 kilometers to the west from Everest.

George Mellori named the mountain as Pumori that means “Unmarried daughter” in sherpa's language. In climbing circles Pumori frequently called as “Everest's daughter”.

First ascent:

Pumori was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser of a German Swiss expedition.

Route line:

There is a set of routes lead to Pumori summit, two of which are considered as the classical ones. The route via Southeast ridge is the most simple. Nevertheless, it is the most dangerous in a post - monsoonal period and ice collapses from a shoulder of the southeast ridge overhangs climbers. Taking into account winter time of our coming ascent, we choose this route considering that the risk of ice collapses would be minimal in winter because of low temperatures and a long absence of snowfalls during this period.

Weather and routes' condition:

We know from the experience of previous visits and expeditions to Nepal: weather conditions for ascent are almost ideal in winter there. Clear weather holds usually till January, 18-20. It is enough warm in gorges and it is not terrible cold up to 7 thousand meters there. The routes are in a less snow condition because as a rule the strongest winds which blow above the Himalayas during the winter play the master everywhere above 7000 m.

Expedition schedule:

We will start from Moscow on December, 25 and next day arrive in Katmandu.

After receiving permits, we will buy in addition equipment and food and on December, 28 we plan to take off to Lukla, from where we will begin our way to the base camp that we are going to set near to the settlement of Gorak Shep. It is in 3 hours of trekking from Everest base camp.

We will have a New Year wassail in Tyangboche (3870 m).

And roughly on January, 4 we will begin to do the first full carry under the route.

Approximately on January, 6 we plan to make a three-day acclimatization climb up to the first camp site at 6200 m.

After following two-day rest we plan to make the main ascent that will take us about 4-5 days.

The fly back to Moscow is planned on January, 25.