New
route on Peak Gorky (6050m) South face, Central Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzstan (24.12.2003) "..The route named SLOVENIJA DIREKT climbed
in two days (11-12 Aug 2003). Ales Cesen, Anze and Tine Marence
and Darko Podgornik evaluated it with V-VI, 5, 90/50-65, 1700m elevation.
The whole tour including descent took 33 hours..."
Trainer’s
notes disputable and indisputable (22.12.2003) "...I cannot give an advice how to become
the World or even Russia champion in short term. Moreover, I hardly
shall give an advice, how to climb this or that concrete route.
I consider rock-climbing, as one of the ways of individual perfection
through activity..."
JANNU,
North Face. Michael Davi's story (8.12.2003) "...I've never understood this phrase.
Now, apparently, I start to understand. The good climber differs
from … more likely not from bad, but from dead the fact that he
is able to turn back in the right time. I think, we turned in the
right time from the North Face of Jannu during this expedition.
We could try to climb upwards, but that it would be more difficult
to turn, when there would be some hundreds meters up to the top.
However the quantity of troubles escorting this expedition already
exceeded allowable limits..."
Author Michael Davi, Ekaterinburg
ANATOLY
N. Bukreev (5.12.2003) "..1997. For the first time in the history
of mountaineering he did four ascents on the mountains above 8000m
for 80 days. Last two ascents were accomplished for 7 days. A high-speed
solo ascent with record time on a mountain above 8000m..."
Mountains
Fanskie. The information before a season (3.12.2003) "..Mountains Fanskie or it is simple Fans
are about hundred the most beautiful tops, over ten of which are
above 5000 meters at the altitude point and have the walls with
difference of heights up to 1500 meters. The area is located in
a southwest part of Pamiro-Alai between Gissarskiy and Zeravshanskiy
ranges area that is translated accordingly as "Fortress" and "Giving
gold" - this area till now keeps gold-bearing mines..."
Author Budyansky Michael, Moscow
Sports autobiography of Sergey Bogomolov (28.11.2003) "...In total I have accomplished
more than 300 ascents, more then 60 of them were of 5B category
according to Russian classification, and more than 20 of them were
first ascents. I have summit 26 mountains above 7000m in the USSR
and 12 mountains above 8000m...."
Author: Sergey Bogomolov, Saratov
TRUTHFUL HISTORY New route on Pobeda peak (via peak Armenia),
north face (19.11.2003) "...The bottom bastion exceeded all our
expectations. The steepness of some sites came nearer to 80 degrees,
the relief was uneasy with overhangs above. Permanently something
came down from each side. On a head it did not fall yet, but all
the same it was very terrible. We didn't manage to rush to the balcony-ledge.
We named the process of working up on the Wall "fighting start"
and after descending from the Wall we put an asterisk on a fuselage
like pilots in Second World War..."
Author:
Oleg Khvostenko, Krasnoyarsk
Timur
Ahmedhanov and "the Russian Extreme project " in Greenland (13.11.2003) "...When we were swimming through to area,
it became visible these walls, and the first we could see was Ulumasortoq
Wall. This wall is much more assimilated then others. It is also
located closer to a fjord. And it makes a very strong impression..."
Jannu,
North Face. Alexander Odintsov - interview for Mountain.RU (5.11.2003) "...Whether we saw that we had expected?
The Wall did not present any unexpectedness. From the point of view
of extent, we knew, that it was three and a half kilometer long,
from the point of view of steepness, we knew, that the Wall was
practically vertical. Though nobody has seen it close as anybody
hasn't come up to it. If we take under consideration the complexity
of its relief, we saw that we had expected in the bottom and average
part, with one exception: the present relief of ice-fall is the
most objectively dangerous place I have ever seen... Daytime norm
was 15-20 ice-falling collapses in different places. And we had
to manoeuvre between these traps of surprises, well, and also we
expected constantly when you would finally fill up. That we have
stayed safe and sound is the great success..."
Interview
with Mikhail PERSHIN (20.10.2003) "...What relief do you like more? Everything:
mixed, ice, rocks. I prefer the real walls: long, iced, complicatedþ..."
Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
The
description of the route on Agrada mountain of 6A category (Barguzinsky
ridge, Siberia) (17.10.2003) "...In the technical aspect the routes
abound in deaf cracks and corners. Going to climb a similar route
you have to been armed corresponding gear. I can recommend a several
pairs of fi-fi hooks, specially for rocks. There is a lot of grass
on the route. It grows on absolutely vertical sites of a rock. A
struggle against it slows down the speed of ascent...."
The information is given by O.P.Kolesov,
Republic Buryatiya
A
journey to a lost world or out-of-the-way of Chinese Empire The Expedition “Unknown Tien Shan” (15.10.2003) "..In contrast to Kongur-Mustagata, where
it’s the climbing and tourist boom now there is no any information
about that place and it seems there weren’t any tourists. We had
only a topographical map, a few black and white photos of that region
made by the space station “MIR” and some information about a Chinese
Expedition on Tomur from the South side in 1977 and failed expedition
of Japan climbers happened a little later. And it took a lot of
time to prove the opportunity to get there. And we entirety realized
that at worst we couldn’t get any help there should only rely on
ourselves..."
Author Anatoly Juliy, Moscow
Interview
with Simone Moro (13.10.2003) "...I like the alpinism that follows ideas
and not tendencies. I found nice alpinism in the past and in the
present and bad alpinism in the same periods. The exploration today
is more limited than in the past but in alpinism there are so many
climbs that still wait “the first”..."
Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Interview
with Denis Urubko (10.10.2003) "...I consider ultimately that high-altitude
technical ascents are the “king of mountain climbing” - the walls
above 7,000m in the Himalayas and Karakorum, especially when completed
alpine style My own personal dream is to make such ascents in small
groups..."
Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Interview
with Alexey BOLOTOV (6.10.2003) "It was the most complex ascent in my life
and I hope very much that it will not be any ones more difficult.
It was really very hard, very hard physically..."
The interview were prepared
by Anna Piunova
Karavshin - Three Years of Oblivion (3.10.2003) "...Karavshin Valley located in Turkestan
range (Pamiro-Altay) in Batkensky region, Osh, Kirghizia. In upper
reaches it subdivided into Rocky Ak-Su (White Water) and Kara-Su
(Black Water) gorge. In Rocky Ak-Su areas peaks Ortyubek, Slesova,
Ptitsa (Bird), 4774, 4810 are located. And in Kara-Su - peaks Asan,
Usen, the same great and terrifying 4810, the 1000-anniversaries
of a Christening of Russia, Pyramidal, Yellow Wall and K..."
The Main secretary of the championship is G.A.
Starikov
Kongur-2003. The Ascent Datas. (1.10.2003) "...As the result we fond the easier route
from the North then along the ridge. Of course we should to fix
the rope there and there were some difficult parts. For the second
travel we accordingly went those parts of the route again..."
Author: Valery Shamalo, S.Petersburg
8047m-Broad Peak In the steps of the International Kazakh Expedition
“Karakorum-2003” (29.09.2003) "Just we went to the sleeping bags
in the Camp II, 6500m, we learned on the radio that Lafaille felt
unwell but could move in his own and he, Viesturs and Urubko were
descending to find some medicines..."
Author: Sergey Bogomolov, Saratov
Crimea Photosession (26.09.2003)
Eugeny Krivosheytsev, Katja Yaermurd, Andrej Vedenmeer
Photo: Alexey Tselischev, S.Petersburg
The Expedition to Karakorum (Pakistan) (25.09.2003) "...The Expedition took place from 01.07.03
to 12.08.03 in unexplored region in the North part of Pakistan,
Karakorum, Yutmaru Glacier. The ambitions of the Expedition were
to find out about that region, to summit the unclimbed top Pumeri
Chhish, North Face, Yutmar Sar and to take a documentary film about
the Expedition. The ascent is declared to the Russian Championship..."
Valery Babanov. Nuptse East.
Third Attempt (23.09.2003) "Nuptse East is still one of the highest virgin
summits so our expedition is very relevant. What about our chances
for success? Well, fifty-fifty as it's usual in Himalayas. We'll
try our best, though".
New routes in the Crimea (19.09.2003) "...The Crimea is taken on properly at
last. New short and multipitches routes are being bolted with utmost
activity..."
Authors: Konstantin Savelyev,
SPb, Eugeny Krivosheytsev, Odessa
New routes on the Red Stone, Crimea (17.09.2003) "...A lot of new routes have appeared on
the Red Stone. Aleksey Chertov bolted a route on the right side
of the Grey Slab over the puddle. The category is proposed 8b+/8c.
But nobody has tried it to climb yet. And there will be about 10
new routes on the Grey Slab after the conclusion of bolting it..."
Author: Eugeny Krivosheytsev,
Odessa
Kongur-2003 (16.09.2003) "...Further we made two climbing: up to
6000m and 7000m. It seemed there wasn’t any problem from the North
Face. And we really didn’t have 7-8 days more to make third successful
climbing..."
Author: Valery Shamalo, S.Petersburg
North Face of Peak Pobeda. New Route "Siberia" (15.09.2003) "During the 8th – 20th of August the Krasnoyarian
alpinists climbed Peak Pobeda, 7439m within the Russian High-altitude
Climbing Championship..."
8125m-Nanga-Parbat In the steps of the International Kazakh Expedition
“Karakorum-2003” (12.09.2003) "The Diamir Wall impressed us by
the overfall and steepness. Not without a reason it was called “The
Mountain- Killer”. But as people said “You never know what you can
do till you try”. We divided into two groups on the time basis..."
TRANGO TOWER. New route on the NW Face (8.09.2003) "2.08 - Summit! (on 20th days of
climbing)… They climbed this challenging route! high of wall 2000m,
slope grade 800..."
(13.08.2003) We have some project, if in two words: to introduce
our readers to the great alpinists of ourdays and their achievements.
So we start: SIMONE MORO, Italy
Valery
Rozov . B.A.S.E. Interview for Mountain.RU (1.07.2003) "I combine BASE with mountains,
jumping in the mountains – is incomparable pleasure, it’s a combination
of several kinds of activity: hiking or climbing in picturesque
surroundings, and then intense action. And after it – relaxation
in some bar with your friends, talking over how you survived this
time... "
Antarctica (16.04.2003) The 13 expedition members arrived from Cape
Town in Novolazarevskaya on January 25 on board of the cargo aircraft
IL-76. A day later, we started out exploring the heart of the ice
continent. None of us has ever been there.
Valery Pershin and Evgeny Vinogradsky
(Ekaterinburg, Russia). Translated by Anna Piunova, www.Mountain.RU
Valery Babanov (VB) and Vladimir Suviga (VS) were interviewed
by Larisa Martynkina (LM), BASK.
Kodar range,
Czarsky Tron (Czar's Throne, 2500) New Route, 6B, 1000 meters SW
wall (18-03.2003) "On February, 2003 the team from Siberian
city Krasnoyarsk made a new route on SW Face of Czarsky Tron (Czar's
Throne), main summit (approx. 2500m). The mountain is located in
Kodar range, Siberia (Russia). Kodar range could be reached approx.
1 day by train from Baikal Lake towards North-East. "
Photos: members of Russian Antarctic
climbing expedition, International Mountaineering Club
Marko
Prezelj . Interview for Mountain.RU (17.01.2003) "Attention
is to everything - especially to me, my feelings and my complex
combination of physical and psychological strength – skills and
knowledge that I can do what I want. Seeking balance between experience
and training on one side, and uncertainty with decision making and
responsibility on the other side, often creates the complex challenge.
Do everything you can to get is what you want?..
"
