Anna Piunova, Moscow

Yekaterinburg. World Cup

Âouldering

Olga Bibik: O.B.

MRU: How do you find the routes?

O.B.: I haven’t been participating in World Cups for a long time:). Though, for the semifinals – considering that I have climbed almost all the routes from the first try – they are pretty good. Some of the problems were more difficult, others were easier, but strangely enough the first route seemed to be the most difficult one for me. Usually it is the other way around – closer to the end the difficulties build up.

I liked the relief, it was very interesting to climb on it. Though it is a bit slippery. I liked problems number one, four and the last one. The last one has a very interesting jump move, though some sportsmen managed to do it differently – just make a long reach with a hand. But I climbed as I have decided to do it.

MRU: Say a few words about the participants.

O.B.: There are not too many people, but all the strongest climbers are here, but none from Italy and Germany. Even Lisa Rands came from America – she is extremely strong. She is into stamina routes. The first problem – where everyone dies away – she just danced it through. But we’ll see – may be we’ll take it over on technical pieces:)

 
Fanny Rougeot (France):

The routes are very beautiful even though not too high, but it is interesting to compete on them. The first problem was very difficult, I was a bit destabilized by it. Usually the first one is the easiest for the climbers to get composed. I got psychic on this first one. It was a surprise:)

Serik Kazbekov:

MRU: What do you think of Natasha’s climbing shape? (Natasha Perlova)

S.K.: Not bad, I always hope on her good performance, but we’ll see, I don’t want to say anything in advance. Natasha is good in tactics and in reading the routes. Much depends upon the character of the routes, if they are technical, I am sure she’ll perform well. If they are stamina routes, then Lisa Rands… it is impossible to compete with her… In general semifinal routes are quite good.

Serik Kazbekov about Olya Yakovleva:

She is very supple, last year she lacked arms strength, but works well with her heel, even too well – sometimes I think it is harmful for the knees. Now I see she has added dynamics. Earlier her dynamic movements were pretty poor, but she worked on it last winter.

Malcom Smith.

Malcom - one of the favorites of these competitions – is not participating. Several days before leaving his home, while training back in England, he seriously injured his arm. But he came to watch.

MRU: Who are the leaders in these competitions?

M.S.: Gerome Meyer, Daniel Dulac, Kazbekov, Rakhmetov. Each of them can win, it’s difficult to predict. But I think that Gerome Meyer will win. He’s got everything for the victory, he is very strong both technically and physically. He can easily read the routes. Though I can be wrong :)

Christophe Buyon, the head referee of the competitions, the coach of Gerome Meyer and Liv Sansoz: Gerome is in perfect shape now, he is easy to work with, he possesses all the qualities necessary for the top climber. He is strong, supple, and composes well before the start.

Natasha Perlova

Natalya Perlova about Serik Kazbekov.

Serik is not showing best results today. It is obvious that he is tired and hasn’t had enough sleep. We got up at half past four our time. We haven’t got used to the time difference. We spent all night in the train and in the morning we had to compete. All this tells. The routes are difficult, no doubt. But Serik doesn’t seem to have his usual drive, strength. He has to force himself. May be tomorrow he will get acclimatized.

 
Serik Kazbekov

What can I say? Better ask Salavat – he is sick to look atJ (Salavat was far ahead of everyone in the Open). We compared the arms’ span, his is one centimeter shorter then mine, but I am 10 centimeters taller then he is. We came to the conclusion that if he let his nails grow longer, he will reach the floor with his hands J

Salavat stands very good chances this year, he can even fight for the final stage. He has to compose himself and struggle.

The routes are superb. But too tough for the Open. I’ve ripped off my muscles J I am not sure I will regain my shape till tomorrow. On the fifth problem I wasn’t even trying of think of something interesting – I only wanted not to miss the hold (the final move on the fifth problem – was a long jump).

I liked the first problem a lot, very interesting, but you have to read it quickly. I even don’t know how I made it – just a drive. I climbed it differently to what I was going to do. The rest of the routes were so-so.

Salavat Rakhmetov.

The routes are ok, but you have to strain every nerve in some places. I would even say the routes are rather complicated, but it is difficult for me to judge whether they are complicated or not. The fifth one was really tough, I haven’t climbed with dynos for a long time, I don’t have the feeling of the route, I tried to reach it without a dyno. I liked the fourth one, it is interesting, technical, about stamina, very hard.
 

Meyer Gerome

Routes are extremely difficult. Of course, I am tired after the flight, but today’s routes are the limit. Maybe tomorrow I will feel better, but tomorrow they will be even harder, no doubt. The fourth problem was the most difficult one. Besides I’ve chosen the wrong way to climb it. Sometimes tactics is the key to the most difficult problems. The fifth was very easy as well as the sixth. Though I climbed it from the second try – just lost concentration and made a mistake.

Corine Theroux.

The routes are superb! Versatile, they are very different from the last year World Cup, but they are nice to climb. Very spectacular!

MRU: Do you always react so emotionally when you fall? (Corine performed a real show: each time she fell she started swearing loudly in French and then she repeated it all in English for everyone to understand:)

C.T. : Yes, I often do:) I get very nervous at the competitions and even psychic when I can’t climb something! But that’s all right, soon I’ll win World Cup in Chamonix and will calm down.

Sandrine Levet – the winner of the World Cup first stage in bouldering

I got a real pleasure from today’s climbing. All problems differ in style and are very nice. I would love them even better if I had not been that tired after the flight. I couldn’t get used to the local time. I quickly understood what to do to send the routes, they were easy to read. I was very tired and I knew that I had to send them from the first try to have enough strength for all. The problems turned out to be technical because the walls are a bit overhanging. Usually I climb more steep routes and it adds some difficulty. I am not very keen on stamina style, but one has to be able to do everything. Last year I climbed a lot of vertical and slightly overhanging blocks, I had a lot of injuries.

I don’t like bouldering problems on rocks, usually they are pretty high, and I got really scared. I don’t get high of this kind of climbing. I climb a lot on long rock routes in difficulty.

MR: By the way, why don’t you stay to participate in difficulty?

S.L.: A week ago I was at World Cup first stage in Imst (Sandrine was placed second there right after the last year World Cup winner Muriel Sarcany). The events are coming one by one, so I need time to get ready for the next one. If I stay, I lose a week. And I prefer to train in France.

MRU: Who of your rivals is strong at present?

S.L. : It’s difficult to say. Olga just starts a new season after a long break, I don’t know in what shape she is now. Then Korin Teru, she is very strong in bouldering. She didn’t show very good results here, but I know her abilities, we train together.

MR: At present do you have any favorite styles, trends in climbing?

S.L. I think, one should be able to combine different styles and different routes. At some points the routes are physically very difficult, too overhanging. At other points they are more technical. You have to climb both

Oleksy Tomasz. Winner of the two World Cup events in Yekaterinburg (bouldering and speed).

Oleksy Tomasz: Yesterday I won the World Cup in Buoldering for the first time, I am surprised, that I won today in speed. Just a week ago I was not on such a good form, but I reached the peak of my form right at these competitions.

MRU: Considering that all the night you spent in the bar (drinking only Cola).

O.T.: Yes, we went for a disco and I came home only at half past three. I couldn’t get to sleep after bouldering, I had too much energy in me. So I decided to exercise physiology theory – active rest is better for your muscles. And it turned out to be right for meJ

MRU: After winning in two events, now you’ll have to choose in which one to participate in future?

Oleksy Tomasz: Yes, that’s a big problem.

MRU: They pay more in bouldering

O.T.: Maybe. But I’d like to participate in both while I can.

MRU: And which do you like better?

O.T.: Bouldering. Bouldering is interesting to climb, you have to use your brains a lot to read a problem. You can train on rocks, I spent much time on rocks. And you can’t train much in speed on rocks. Recently I sent 8B bouldering, it’s a very good result. And a good practice for difficulty. Speed training helps to work out important qualities for bouldering: dynamics, coordination, stamina.

MRU: Where do you train on rocks?

O.T.: In Poland, not far from Tyrnovo, in Italy, in Spain, in France. Where competitions are. This year I spent a month in Thailand. I liked everything there: rocks, climate, exotics. The categories of some routes are underestimated, I sent two 8B+ boulder problems from the fourth try, and two 8A+ on-sight. Such problems are about stamina, 20-30 moves, it was new for me. I used to train a lot before, now I train less, too much time is spent on work and earning money. I was thinking that if this year I didn’t win, I would leave this sport. Just will climb for pleasure and attend to my business. Rock climbing is not an Olympic kind of sport. If it were, I would do only it. I am 26 already, I can maintain this level for 3-4 more years at maximum. I have to think about my future.

Difficulty

Alex Chabot. The winner of Yekaterinburg World Cup event 2003, difficulty.

After the Semifinals.

A very difficult route on resistance. I am glad I managed to top it. Yesterday the route was pure bouldering. Today the route is difficult, but accurate and beautiful, much better then yesterday’s one.

After the Final.

It was very hard for me, I was falling down almost with every movement. The route was very difficult, short and intense. I liked the route in the semifinals better. Of course I am very happy to win, especially that I came here not in my best shape, I felt very tired after a photo cession in France. When I fell on the route I thought I would be second or third..

About Training.

I train at home on rocks and climbing walls, about 20 hours a week. Sometimes Antuan Peche helps me, but usually I train on my own, I don’t have a coach. Participating in competitions helps a lot to gain progress. You see what you lack, what you have to work on.

- Whom do you consider to be your strongest rival?

- Gerome Pouvreau. I find it very hard to compete with him.

Chloe Minoret. The winner of World Cup 2003, Difficulty, Yekaterinburg

After the Semifinals.

Today I liked the route better, it is longer and technical. A very beautiful climbing. I don’ t know what’ll be tomorrow – maybe Muriel Sarkany or Emilie Pouget will win. Alexander – among men. Though he may have a strong rivalry in Ramon Julian and Tomas. But Chabot is well prepared psychologically.

After the Final.

I didn’t expect I would win the Cup. I only counted to get into the first five. These routes are not exactly in my line, they are stamina routes. I can’t say I prepared in some special way for these competitions. Lately me and Francois Petit are climbing mostly for the fun of it. I must say I am totally impressed by Olga Bibik performance at this event. I can’t imagine it’s possible to regain form so quickly after having baby. I am always lacking time for training because of studies.

Christian Brenna (italy).

After Semifinals.

Today the route was superb, very nice, long, just the way I like. There were places to stop and think over the next movement. It wasn’t just a demonstration of one’s strength, but of the style as well. Yesterday at the semifinals the route was a bit tense, very specific. I didn’t get it at all. Today the route-setters made a very beautiful route – 8A, I believe. I don’t know about the final, may be it will be like the last year – worrying about whether you’ll 8^th or 9^thJ My chances are getting low, because yesterday I showed not a very good result. I don’t know how long I would be able to participate in these Cups, I am pretty old already, may be another 3-4 years, not more. Competitions enable me to earn money, I work in an army sports club, so I have to take part in competitions. Still competitions don't interfere with my projects on the rocks.

- You always climb a lot on the rocks!

- I am very fond of rocks. Recently I’ve climbed a stunning route in Valle dell'Orco. The FA of "Itaca nel Sole" was done in 60-s, it has a pitch of easy climbing and a couple of very straining pitches. The first one – is a very beautiful 8a, the second – 8b – hasn’t seen a single free climbing. I managed to free both. And we put no new pitons not to change the original route – this was a matter of ethics, respect to the creators of the route.

Tomas Mrasek.

After the Open

Today it was even harder then usual. Usually the open is easy, but this time it was impossible to climb. May be tomorrow the route will be longer and more like difficulty. I have been training a lot and I am in good shape, so I hope everything will turn well for me.

After the Semifinals.

Nice route! Superb!

Muriel Sarkany (Belgium)

After the Open. This route was a surprise. It is very short and hard. Usually in the open the routes are longer and easier, and there are more then 30 competitors usually. The qualification route should be easy because it is a training for the semifinals.

The route for men is very hard, even the best sportsmen failed to top it, which is a rear case. Sometimes at Lecco competitions they do something similar.

Francois Petit.

After the Open.

It was too hard for the Open. It throws you out of balance when the open is so hard. When I was waiting for my turn, the sportsmen were going one by one. I thought that all of then made it to the top. I was prepared for an easy climb, but it proved out to be different. It looked more like bouldering, not like difficulty. Too hard for the open. Sportsmen came here to climb, tomorrow they will fly away, so it turns out they came to climb a couple of meters – that’s not right.