The idea of the route has been changed a lot during the ascent preparation. Primary plan was to pass Bodnik's route, straighten it through the solid, overhanging in its lower part, slab (boulge).
R0-R1: from the tree go upwards through easy destroyed rocks 15 m, then go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing to the overhang 20 m, then AID by cracks 10 m to the belay (3 bolts) IV, À3, 45m
The route goes along the right side of the Southern wall of Shaan-Kaya, in its upper part turning to the left, to the center. As a reference point you can use a big overhanging corner, seen even from the lower road. If you trace a line from the root of the corner perpendicularly to the foot, it will show the start.
The route goes along the southern buttress of Hergiani rock, just opposite the route “Surprise”.
Approach: go along the upper old road to the Devil's Stairs, then 400- 500 m to the east, to a small rock near the road, and 100- 130 m more to the note “Crimea” made with green paint.
Alpinism is closely related to the falls. But fallings can be different. Nobody is secured against occasional break or stone blow. There is no 100% reliability. But the paradox is that people usually get wounded not because of objective reasons, but on account of their own muddle-headedness.
Kastropol wall is situated on the Main ridge of Crimean mountains above Kastropol village. From the quarry under Morcheka go to the west along the upper road for about 2.5 km .
In the evening a snowstorm began, it was time to think about the night. There are 3 ledges on all the route, all of them inclined, covered with ice and stones.
SIMONE’S PASSION FOR EXPLORATION has led him from his playground in the Italian Dolomites to the highest places on our earth. He is world renowned for his all round prowess as an alpinist - on rock, on ice, mixed and at altitude.
Route of the national Russian alpinist team goes along the center of the Western face – abrupt rocky bastion. No one has ever tried to ascend K2 peak by the Western face.
This weekend we had free Sunday, so Maxim and I decided to furrow the spaces of Angarka. The road was nice: sunny, without mosquitoes, the blackberry grew, that's why we were in fighting spirit and decided to climb something interesting.
Angarskaya wall isn't popular among climbers few even know that it has about 10 routes 2-5 grades. Mainly climbers know only “Acrofobia” – a multipitch route (5A) made by V. Ivanov in 90-th years, but such trad routes like “Sickle” (4B) and “Three” (3A) are unknown.
Chelebi massif is located in the Western part of the Main ridge of Crimean mountains, between “Baydarsky gates” pass and Ilyas-Kaya mountain. Its height is 200 m, altitude – 600 m above sea level. In spite of small height, its central part has 5 routes 5 and 6 grades.
In comparison with many other climbing regions of Crimea , walls of Ay-Petri are not so popular because of long approaches, though first steps of Crimean alpinism were made here.
Among the most of Crimean alpinist routes this route is notable for heterogeneous sections. It has sections where you can go on foot in bunches with shortened rope (the most self-confident can go without rope), and there is a difficult climbing section where skills of vertical climbing are needed, as well as making belay.
Spirada mountain is situated above Opolznevoe village. Length of the massif is several kilometers. The most of the massif is 100-150 m high, but several towers are above 200.
From the belay go upwards to the split 3 m (spits), then traverse to the left along the small ledge with juniper till the vertical corner. Go upwards 8-10 m by the corner (spits), to the small cornice, then go to the left to the wall, a good place for a horizontal climbing bolt.
The route of this excursion begins from Yalta bus station, then we will drive along the wide Yalta-Sevastopol highway, which streams Yalta on the north-west, then we will turn to the mountain road, the group will visit the peak, then descent to the Southern coast by the aerial ropeway and return to Yalta by minibus.
Author: Fomenko Alexandra, Yalta Photos: Alexander Demin, Simeiz
The spectacular place was chosen: a solid boulge under a big red cornice in the right part of Chelebi massif. And though the ethics of ascent was not alpinist at all (the lines were fixed up for the exploring of the alleged route), the route was worthy.
The region from Sevastopol to Balaklava is an abrupt shore, sometimes 200 m high. This part is much broken up . There are no rocks useful for climbing.
In spite of the fact that Angarskaya wall of Chatur-Dag is well seen from the Angarsky pass, few people know that it has several routes from 2 to 5 grades. In its right part there is a three grade route which is described in “Crimean Alps” in 1968.
The wall amazes with its steepness, form accuracy and nail relief. It rises vertically above the sea and dip into the blue deep for more than 80 m. In the right section of the wall there is a huge dark overhang.
An idea of switching over from 7000 and starting passing new technical routs on 8000 came to my mind last autumn, in 2007, after ascent to Janna in Himalayas.
The massif consists of separate walls about 15 m wide and 10-18 m high, mainly overhanging and vertical sections and VERY rich relief (on photos only 2 overhanging sections, I didn't take pictures of verticals, photos aren't sharp because it was twilight and many trees).
The Crimean peninsula is situated in the South-Eastern Europe, it is part of the Ukraine. Its area is 27 000 square kilometers. It is washed by the Black Sea and the See of Azov.
As for the general appraise of the routes, for some of them we attend your attention the grade difficulty that differs from the generally accepted one.
Authors: Alexander Kuzminsky, Moscow Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol
All the routes to the summit of the region are combined. Summits that are located in a distance from the main range are built of flimsy rocks and present destroyed edges and slopes.
Next morning began with the problem: alarm clock on our (both) mobiles were set on central European time, so we woke up at 6 instead of 3 o’clock in the morning. We ran up to the face and began the climb at about 8:30.
Gestola is a very beautiful mountain. Its slender pyramid attracts and summons everyone, who has been to the Bezengiysky canyon. And the route of Hergiani to Gestola is also very beautiful and attractive, and even a little bit defiant. And we couldn’t stand up against their beauty…
I didn’t know how, but I managed to do everything, I climbed to the station and began to breathe, having leaned back on self-belay in the bottom of the angle, covered with ice. I looked downwards and gradually gave the rope.
