Mountain.RU

newsclimbski & snowboardadventurephotossearch

russian

Tepui - mountain massive, that rise in the South - South-East of Venezuela , is the unique object of nature. It is built of buttes of solid rock of ancient mountains that disappeared long ago. All the sides of the mountains breaks down with vertical walls (up to 1000 meters high) and like giant monuments they tower above the jungles. These were the mountains that Conan Doyle described in his novel "Lost World". The only ascent to this top was made by Americans four years ago.

Certainly, we are going to make an ascent along the new route. Russian step should be left in this mountain region which is difficult of access but very interesting!

Full information about expedition

News of exepedition

Membership of expedition:
Alexander Odintsov
Valery Rozov
Denis Provalov
Sergey Shaferov
Sergey Krasko
Evgeny Primakov
Victor Shvagerus
Sponsors and organizers:

BASK (cloth & equipment for sports and outdoor activity)

Marsat

Read on Mountain.RU:

Venezuela: We had to solve equation with many unknown quantities. Odintsovs letter.

Venezuela , Amazonian region, Tepui, Autana

Joint expedition of the "Russian Extreme Project" and the team of alpinists " Russian Way World Walls"

 

News of exepedition
(28.11.2007)
Venezuela. Five Pitches Sent. Relief Is Terrible

Valera Rozov:
Five pitches were sent. Not so quickly as we've planned. The wall is overhanging slippery, relief is terrible, none of cracks, wet moss, heat, dampness, etc


27.11.07.
Two pitches have been climbed.

The total darkness came and that means all the bloodsuckers gad- and sand- fles, wasps, mosquitos, gnats and other insects in immense quantity here flew away and I can sit still for some time without sudden movements! and to write about our jungle life. (Damn! It's seems I've been too hasty: some horseleeches are stinging me!)

In spite of tactics of delay and deliberateness of local porters we finally got under the wall and set the camp at the altitude of 300 meters in a comfortable place. Everything is OK now. Within minutes of walking distance there is a creak where we can have a shower from a small bottle exercising some ingenuity.

To tell the truth the place is rather curst it's wet, hot, but suddenly without prior warning it starts raining, insects attack and our clothes do not want to dry...

The wall is located in 50 minutes of climbing. Altitude gain by doing so is 320 meters. We paved a rather good path, but sometimes have to take a machete in hands again. It is running wild and the blazes are paling. It is very easy to get lost.

The jungle does not make an lively impression with its grey-green colors.Thelight of the sun does not reach the bottom of it. The trees, bushes, bearded and no, lianas and a piece of the sky somewhere above, murmuring beasts, snakes, rummy speedy black with greenback frogs and shaggy spiders of the size of a Raumer's axe.

At every evening party Valery Rosov titles The Best Scout of the day the most doing guy.

The most part of team's members spend the nights in hammocks wrapping up the mosquito nets. Only weak in spirit Shaferov, Rosov and Provalov, the same old way, smother in tents. Thje Doctor and Odintsov are sleeping in tents too but due to their self-preservative instinct: they fell out of their hammocks and don't want to relive old memories.

The Doctor is a dearest t man. He treats patients gratuitously and gives valuable help.

About the route: the mountain is big and hanging. There are not many suitable spots where to set belay stations and not much cracks and edges.
Minimum up about halfway via the wall is covered with green plants, snags and lianas that just break loose in bad faith when you snatch at it. That grass I adapted to pad under the rope to appear as some kind of a protector.

The wall is wet and greasy in places, but in the afternoon the sun grill us and sometimes stones collapse from above.

Yesterday during afternoon we started climbing. Today have already done the second pitch. Not so fast. . Well, we'll see how the things move on. Tomorrow we will lift the first 50 liters of water that we have to take from BC. Sergey Krasko plans to look for a land-site and make a fire in our turn we will direct him from the wall.

Valery Rozov's first words about future jump: "Well, the things is rather bad just as people told me.

And the bad news: just at the first working day the punch broke down. We have to repair it.

(27.11.2007)
News from Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition 26.11.2007

News from Odintsov's Autana Tepui Expedition (Venezuela, Amazonian region): a three-man team of Shaferov-Odintsov-Provalov has started working on the wall

Finally we got under the wall. A three-man team of Shaferov-Odintsov-Provalov has started working. The first two pitches go via vertical rock, the rest part of the wall is hanging There are only a few variants of the possible route. Valery Rozov and the camera-men are upon the look for a landing site: that wants some doing because there are a lot of trees there Valery will land right on them.

Because of high humidity the cameras refuse to work, because of high trees the internet-connection is almost impossible due to satellite's poor-reception area there.

The Indians appear rather strange people and we couldn't set working relations for a while for an uncertain reason. .

25.11.2007

We have been trekking through the jungle north-east of Columbia boundary for two days.

The satellite connectivity is poor. Today we could find an open space of 2*2 meters to get satellite service area. Because of high humidity in the jungle we feel like in a cave. All the things are wet. The thermometer shows more than 30 degrees of heat. There are a lot of insect like bees around. We have not seen any beast of prey here. We have to save our video hardware and shoot a little due to such humidity

It's really close to our mountain but we have some problems with the Indians they refuse to carry our luggage and show the right way. . It is a problem how to communicate with them.

They just behave disobediently. After an hour of carrying sit and take time off. We have to do that by ourselves: some round trips a day. If to climb a hill we can not see our mountain because of fog drifted obscuringly into everything around.

But we hope to set our BC soon and things will straighten out.

Denis Provalov

22.11.2007

Now we became a machete crew because of every of us got this very dangerous thingy.

It seems we got acclimatized a little as today we can outride the heat. But the sunshine is ferocious in the afternoon at this time of year there. All the plastic things just want to melt under the sun. In the evening when the sun dips below the horizon it becomes rather comfortable. You can use one's beam and move your body.

Everything is ready for tomorrow's date of sailing.

All the things and food are collected and packed.

Denis Provalov

1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: info@mountain.ru
@Mail.ru Rambler's Top100