Эталонные маршруты
Категория |
Описание, примеры |
NZ 1 |
Лёгкое карабканье (~F) |
- Mount Rolleston, Arthur's Pass, Goldney Ridge, NZ 1+ (1350m)
- Mount Sealy, Mount Cook/Sealy Range, SW Face NZ 1
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NZ 2 |
Чуть более крутые участки, возможно, потребуется верёвка (~PD) |
- Aconcagua ( 22,835'), Andes/High Andes, Ruta Normal NZ 2 (F, nccs IV I,40° 2800m)
- Denali ( 6193m/20,320'), Alaska, West Buttress NZ 2 (AK2, Rus 5A, nccs IV 50° 4000m)
- Elie de Beaumont, Mount Cook/Upper Tasman, Anna Glacier NZ 2+
- Mount Dixon , Mount Cook/Tasman/GP, East Ridge NZ 2+ (900m)
- Mount Logan, Cascades/North Cascades, Standard Route (Fremont Glacier) NZ 2 (II 4th class, 6,800')
- Mount Rolleston , Arthur's Pass, traverse from Mt. Philistine NZ 2
- Mount Rolleston, Arthur's Pass, Otira Face Central Direct NZ 2+ (900m)
- Mount Sealy, Sealy Range, North Face NZ 2
- Mount Sefton , Sealy Range, Scott Creek/West Ridge NZ 2+ (500m)
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NZ 3 |
Крутые участки несколько протяжённее. На льду не лишней покажется пара инструментов (~ PD+/ AD) |
- Chimborazo , Ecuador , SW Face "El Castillo" (normal route) NZ 3 (PD/PD+ 40° 1300m)
- Malte Brun, Malte Brun, North Face NZ 3+ (AUS 14 2400m)
- Malte Brun, Malte Brun, North Ridge NZ 3-4 (2400m)
- Malte Brun, Malte Brun, West Ridge NZ 3 (AUS 14 2400m)
- Mont Blanc ( 4810m), Mont Blanc Massif, "Three Mont Blanc" NZ 2+/3 (III PD+, III/AI1(50°) 1730m)
- Mount Aspiring ( 3033m), Aspiring, South-West Ridge NZ 3+ (Sco III/IV (60-65°) 800m)
- Mount Aspiring ( 3033m), Aspiring, NW Ridge "The Ramp" NZ 2+/3 (40-50° 1220m)
- Mount Awful, Aspiring, "The Weta Walk" NZ 3 (AUS 17)
- Mount Cook , Tasman/GP, "Linda" NZ 3/3+ (AD, 40-45° 1700m)
- Mount Cook, Hooker valley, Hooker Face "Porter Col" NZ3 (AD 1250m)
- Mount Cook , Tasman/GP, "Zurbriggen's Ridge" NZ3+ (AD+ 50-55° 1200m)
- Mount Douglas, Fox glacier, "Pioneer Ridge" NZ 3+ (700m)
- Mount Haidinger, Fox glacier, West Face Left Buttress NZ 3+ (AUS 10 (YDS 5.1), 40° 700m)
- Mount Logan , Canada , East Ridge NZ 3 (AK3+ 60° 3500m)
- Mount Sefton , Sealy Range, North Ridge NZ 3+ (2000m)
- Mount Tasman, Fox glacier, North Shoulder NZ3+ (1200m)
- Mount Tutoko , Darran, SE Ridge NZ 3+ (AUS 14 1500m)
- Mount Tutoko , Darran, NW Buttress NZ 3+ (AUS 14 (yds 5.7))
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NZ 4 |
Техничный подъём. Необходимы знания и навыки пользования ледовым и скальным снаряжением. Маршрут на полный день . (~D) |
- Malte Brun, Malte Brun, South Face NZ4 (700m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, "Hörnligrat" NZ 3+/4 (AD-, G5 III, A0 1300m)
- Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc Massif, "Kuffner arete" NZ 3+/4 (D, 50°, UIAA IV, 700m)
- Mount Barnicoat, Fox glacier, "Moonshine Buttress" NZ 4+ (5.9 9 pitches)
- Mount Cook, Tasman/GP, East Ridge NZ 4 (D 1550m)
- Mount Cook, Tasman/GP, North Ridge NZ4- (D- 1700m)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, South Ridge NZ 4- (D-)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, S Face "Original" NZ4 (D)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, SW Face (Hooker Face) "Earles route" NZ 4/4+ (D- 1200m)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, West Ridge NZ 3+/4 (AD+ 2000m)
- Mount Haidinger , Fox glacier, West Face Right Buttress NZ 4- (AUS 12 (YDS 5.6), 40° 700m)
- Mount Hicks, Hooker valley, South Face "Dingle-button" NZ 4- (700m)
- Mount Magellan, Fox glacier, "Balfour Buttress" NZ 4+ (AUS 15 (YDS 5.7+))
- Mount Mallory , Fox glacier, South Face "The Thing" NZ 4+ (7 pitches)
- Mount Robson, Rockies, "Kain Face" NZ 3+/4 (IV 48° 250m)
- Mount Tasman , Tasman/GP, "Silberhorn Arete" NZ 3+/4 (AD+/D, 70° 1100m)
|
NZ 5 |
Напряжённый техничный подъём. Возможны вертикальные ледовые участки (~ D+/ TD) |
- Mount Cook, Tasman, SE Face ( Carolina Face) Direct "Denz" NZ 5- (TD 60-65° 2000m)
- Mount Cool, Tasman, SE Face ( Carolina Face) "Clit" NZ 5 (Sco III, 1800m)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, Grand Traverse via NW Couloir (Great Gully) NZ 5 (2000m)
- Mount Cook , Hooker valley, S face "White Dream" NZ5 (TD)
- Mount Dilemma , Strauchon, Direct Route NZ 5 (YDS 5.8)
- Mount Douglas, Upper Tasman, South Face Left Couloir NZ 5- (500m)
- Mount Drake , La Perouse, North face "Shogun" NZ5+ (AUS 15 (YDS 5.8))
- Mount Hicks , Hooker valley, South Face Left Buttress Regular Route NZ 5+ (AUS 14/15 (YDS 5.9+) 700m)
- Mount Tasman, Fox glacier, Torres-Tasman Traverse NZ5 (1200m)
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NZ 6 |
Несколько ключевых участков. На вертикальном льду возможны проблемы с организацией страховки. Требуются устойчивая психика и хорошая техническая база. Возможны ночёвки. Удалённость от цивилизации (~ TD/ ED) |
- Mount Drake, La Perouse, "Pelican" NZ 6+ (5.10b/c)
- Mount Hicks, La Perouse, North Face Center Buttress NZ 6 (5.7+)
- Mount Hicks, Hooker, valley, South Face "New Gunbarrels" NZ 6 (WI5-, 700m)
- Mount Hicks, Hooker valley, South Face "Yankee-Kiwi Couloir" NZ 6+ (700m)
- Mount Tasman, Fox glacier, "Balfour Face" NZ 6 (IV/AI4 600m)
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NZ 7 |
(~ED) |
- Mount Drake , La Perouse, North Face "Samurai" NZ 7- (AUS 23 (YDS 5.11c))
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