Категория

Описание

I

Несколько часов, любой технической сложности (~ F- AD/ D)

• Ancohuma (6427m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, SW Face (normal route) I 45° ( PD), 1000m
• Mount Kitchener (3505m/11,500') , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, South-West Slopes ( Normal Route) I, 1500m
• Mount Temple (3544m/11,626') , Canadian Rockies/Banff, South-West Ridge ( Normal Route) I (PD) [ 4th class ], 5,545' from Moraine lake
• Mount Washington (1917m) , New Hampshire/White Mountains, Huntington Ravine "North Ridge" I [ 5.1 ], 1300m total
• Mount Washington (1917m), New Hampshire/White Mountains, Huntington Ravine "South Gully" I [ WI1 , NEI1 ], 1300m total
• Mount Whitney (4419m) , Sierra Nevada/Eastern Sierra Nevada, trail from Whitney Portal I, 5.860'
• North Twin (3684m/12,087'), Canadian Rockies/Jasper Park, East Slopes (normal route) I

II

Половина дня, любой технической сложности (~ PD- D)

• Glacier Peak (3206m/10,541') , Cascades/North Cascades, "Frostbite Ridge" I-II AI1 yds 3rd class
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, South Side "Owen-Spalding" (normal route) II 5.4 (uiaa III), 640m/2650m
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, South Side "Upper Exum Ridge" II 5.5 (uiaa IV), 640m/2650m
• Huyana Potosi (6088m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, normal route, II 50° (AD-), 600m
• Illimani, Pico Sur (6438m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, SW Face (normal route), mII 50° (PD), 1000m
• Kilimanjaro (5963m/19,563'), Kenya, Machame Traverse II (AK 1), 4000m
• Liberty Bell (2360m/7,713'), Cascades/North Cascades, " Beckey Route" II 5.6 (PD), 150m
• Long's Peak (4345m/14,261'), Colorado Rockies/Rocky Mountains National Park, "Keyhole" (normal route) II 3th class, 5,000'/7,5 miles
• Middle Teton (3903m), Rocky Mountains/Tetons, NW Couloir II AI2-3 5.6, 4 pitches
• Mount Andromeda (3450m) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, "Skyladder" II AI2 (AD+ II/AI2 (45°) 1400m
• Mount Athabasca (3491m), Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, North Glacier (normal route) II (PD), 1500m
• Mount Hood (3426m/11,245') , Cascades/Oregon, S side "Palmer Glacier" II (G2, 35°), 1600m
• Mount Lefroy (3423m/11,227'), Canadian Rockies/Lake Louise, West Face II 35°
• Mount Logan (3286m/10,781'), Cascades/North Cascades, Fremont Glacier, II 4th class (NZ 2), 6,800'
• Mount Rainier (4392m) , Cascades/Southern Cascades, "Disappointment Cleaver" II 35° (PD+, AK 1+), 9.000'
• Mount Shasta (4317m/14,126') , Cascades/Southern Cascades/California, "Casaval Ridge" II+ YDS class 4, 7,400'
• Mount Victoria (3464m/11,365') , Canadian Rockies/Banff, SE Ridge II, 542m
• Nevado Sajama (6542m), BoliviaCordillera Occidental, NW Ridge (normal route) II 50° (AD), 1000m
• Pisco, Oeste (5752m), Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Huandoy, II 45° (IV PD), 825m
• Ruth Mountain (2166m/7,106') , Cascades/North Cascades National Park, Ruth glacier II

III

Большая часть дня уходит на прохождение технического участка маршрута, любой категории трудности (~ PD- D)

• Bugaboo Spire (3186m), Bugaboos, South Ridge "Kain route" III 5.6+ 40° (AD)
• Condoriri (5650m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real/Condoriri, SW Ridge (normal route) III 55° (AD+), 400m
• Elbrus, West Peak (5642m), Caucasus, Southern route (normal route) III 35-40° (PD-, Rus 2A), 1540m
• Forbidden Peak (2687m), Cascades/North Cascades, West Ridge II/III 5.6 50° (AD), 5,600'
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770'), Rocky Mountains/Tetons, South Side "Lower Exum Ridge" III 5.7 (III AD+ V), 640m/2650m
• Half Dome (2695m), Sierra Nevada/Yosemite, "Snake Dike" III 5.7 R (D, f5a), 250m
• Huyana Potosi (6088m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, East face "via de los Franceses", III 55° (AD+), 300m
• Illampu (6368m) , Bolivia/Cordillera Real, SW Ridge (normal route) III- 65° (AD), 800m
• Illimani Pico Norte (6380m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, South Ridge "German route" III 70° (D-), 1000m
• Imja Tse ( Island Peak) (6183m/20,283'), Himalaya/Nepal/Khumbu, SE Flank & SW Ridge (normal route), III 45°,A0 (IV PD+), 1100m
• Ishinca (5530m) Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Chinchey, NW Slopes (normal route) III 45° (PD-), 700/1130m
• Long's Peak (4345m/14,261'), Colorado Rockies/ Rocky Mountains National Park, East face "Kiener's route" III 5.3 AI2 (III AI2 M1+) 2,000'
• Matterhorn (4478m), Alps/Pennine Alps, NE Ridge "Hörnligrat" III (III AD-, G5, NZ 3+/4 III,A0), 1300m
• Mont Blanc (4810m) , Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, Aiguilles Grises Route (rock variation, Italian normal route) III (III PD+ II, AI1 (40°)), 1736m
• Mount Adams (3742m), Cascades/Southern Cascades, Adams Glacier III 45°, 1350m
• Mount Aspiring (3033m), New Zealand/Aspiring, SW Ridge III 60-65° (NZ 3+ Sco III/IV), 800m
• Mount Athabasca (3491m) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, North Face "Hourglass" III 5.5 (D-), 7-8 pitches
• Mount Athabasca (3491m) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, North Face "Silberhorn" II/III 35° (AD)
• Mount Athabasca (3491m), Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, Regular North Face III 5.4 (D-, 52°), 7-8 pitches
• Mount Baker (3285m/10,781) , Cascades/North Cascades, North Ridge III+ AI3 (AD)
• Mount Buckner (2777m/9,112') , Cascades/North Cascades, North Face III 50°, 1,300'
• Mount Edith Cavell (3363m/11,033'), Canadian Rockies/Jasper, East Ridge III 5.3 (D)
• Mount Fay (3244m) , Canadian Rockies/Lake Louise, North face III 40-70°, ), 400m
• Mount Hood (3426m/11,245') , Cascades, Sandy Glacier Headwall III 50°, 1000m
• Mount Katahdin (1606m) , Maine/Baxter State Park, S Basin "Armadillo Buttress" III 5.8
• Petit Meeker (4240m/13,911'), Colorado Rockies/Rocky Mountains National Park, "Dreamweaver couloir" III AI2+
• Mount Mendell (4179m) , Sierra Nevada/Eastern Sierra, "Mendel Couloir" III 5.6 AI2 WI3 (60-65°), 10 pitches
• Mount Rainier (4392m) , Cascades/Southern Cascades, Emmons-Winthrop Glacier II 40° (G3), 10.000'
• Mount Rainier (4392m) , Cascades/Southern Cascades, Kautz Glacier, III (50-60°), 10,800'
• Mount Shuksan (2782m/9,131') , Cascades/North Cascades National Park, Price Glacier III, 6,700'
• Mount Shuksan (2782m/9,131'), Cascades/North Cascades National Park, Sulphide Glacier III class 4 30°, 6,400'
• Mount Stuart (9,415'), Cascades, North Ridge III 5.4, 4,500'
• Mount Washington (1917m) , New Hampshire/White Mountains, Huntington Ravine "Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle" III 5.7, 5-6 pitches
• Mount Washington (1917m), New Hampshire/White Mountains, Huntington Ravine "Pinnacle Gully" III WI2+/3 (D NEI3 (80°), 1300m/200m
• Mount Whitney (4419m), Sierra Nevada/ Eastern Sierra Nevada, East Face III 5.6 (AD), 1,000'/5,860'
• Nevado Sajama (6542m), BoliviaCordillera Occidental, SW Ridge III 55° (AD), 1100m
• Pequeno Alpamayo (5400m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real/Condoriri, WSW Ridge (normal route) III- 45-55° (AD), 250m
• Petit Grepon , Colorado Rockies/ Rocky Mountains National Park , SW Corner III 5.9
• Pico de Orizaba (5610m/18,405'), Mexico, north side "Glacier de Jamapa" (normal route) III 30° (F) 1350m
• Polemonium Peak (4292m) , Sierra Nevada/Eastern Sierra, V-notch Couloir III AI2 (50-60°), 300m
• Sir Donald (3284m/10,772'), Canadian Rockies/Glacier National Park, NW Ridge III 5.2-5.3 (D-)
• The Spearhead , Colorado Rockies/ Rocky Mountains National Park , North Ridge III 5.6
• Tocllaraju (6302m), Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Chinchey, NW Ridge (Arista NW, normal route) III 50-55 (III AD+/D, 50-55° (100m), rimaye wall 60-70°), 1032m
• Urus, Este (5495m), Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Chinchey, SE slopes to east ridge (normal route) III 45-50° (PD-) 1040m

IV

Очень длинный день . Самый сложный участок сопоставим, как минимум, с YDS 5.7. (~D/TD-)

• Aconcagua (22,835'), High Andes, "Polish Traverse" (False Polish) IV (F, AK 2), 2800m
• Bugaboo Spire (3186m), Bugaboos, North-East Ridge IV 5.7 (D-), 450m
• Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya) (4884m(, Oceania, "Harrer" (normal route) IV 5.8 (AD Rus 5A uiaa V), 800m
• Condoriri (5650m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real/Condoriri, SE Face Directissima IV 65° (D+), 350m
• Denali (6193m/20,320'), Alaska, West Buttress IV 50° (AK 2+, Rus 5A, NZ2), 4000m
• Devil's Thumb (2777m/9,077'), Alaska, East Ridge (normal route) IV 5.8 AI4
• El Altar, El Obispo (5319m), Ecuador/Eastern Cordillera, "Italian route" (normal route) IV (AD/D 80°, IV-V), 720m
• Fairview Dome (2966m/9,731'), Sierra Nevada/Yosemite, Regular route IV 5.9 (300m)
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770'), Rocky Mountains/Tetons, North side " Route Canal" IV WI5 5.9 (VI), 1048m
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770'), Rocky Mountains/Tetons, West Face "Enclosure couloir" IV AI3 5.7 (D- uiaa V), 640m
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, West Face "Black Ice Couloir" IV IV/AI3+ 5.7 (D/TD uiaa V-), 640m (15 pitches)
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, North Face IV 5.8 (uiaa V-), 1048m/2230m
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, North Ridge IV 5.7+ (uiaa VI-), 1048m/2230m
• Huascaran Sur (6768m/22,205'), Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Huascaran, West Slope "Garganta" (normal route) IV 45° (PD/AD II, 45°), 2600m
• Huyana Potosi (6088m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, West Face "Laba-Hudson" (via America) IV 5.5 80° (D+), 1000m
• Huyana Potosi (6088m), Bolivia/Cordillera Real, West Face "American route" (via de Lyon) IV- 65° (D-), 1000m
• Long's Peak (4345m/14,261'), Colorado Rockies/ Rocky Mountains National Park, "Alexander's Chimney/The Notch" IV AI4 5.5, 2,000'
• Long's Peak (4345m/14,261'), Colorado Rockies/ Rocky Mountains National Park, NE Face " Casual Route" IV 5.10a (TD), 275m
• Moose's Tooth (10,355'), Alaska, "Ham and Eggs Couloir" V 5.9 AI4 (AK 3+), 900m
• Mount Andromeda (3450m) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, N Ridge Couloir "Shooting Gallery" IV 5.9 (IV WI4 M5) (D+), 1400m total
• Mount Hunter (14,570'm), Alaska, West Ridge IV V/AI3 5.8 (AK 4+ 70°), 2440m
• Mount Katahdin (1606m) , Maine/Baxter State Park, "Cilley-Barber" IV WI4
• Mount Kenya (5199m/17,057'), Kenya, SE Face "McInder's Route" IV 5.7(+) (D- IV), 300m
• Mount Mendell (4179m) , Sierra Nevada/Eastern Sierra, "Ice Nine" IV AI4 WI5 5th class, 330m
• Mount Rainier (4392m) , Cascades/Southern Cascades, "Liberty Ridge" IV III/AI2 (D 50°), 1300m
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, NE Ridge "Fuhrer Ridge" IV 5.4 (D+), 670m/2290m
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, NE Face "Kain Face" IV 48° (D), 250m/2290m
• Mount Robson (3945), Canadian Rockies/Jasper, North Face IV 55° (D+), 760m/2290m
• Mount Robson (3945), Canadian Rockies/Jasper, West Face "Wishbone Arete" IV 5.6, 2950m
• Mount Shuksan (2782m/9,131'), Cascades/North Cascades National Park, North Face IV (50°), 2,000'
• Mount Stuart (9,415') , Cascades, Stuart Glacier Couloir IV 80°, 1,200'
• Mount Temple (3544m/11,626'), Canadian Rockies/Banff, East Ridge IV 5.7 40°
• Mount Temple (3544m/11,626') , Canadian Rockies/Banff, North Face "Elzinga-Miller" IV 5.7 A1
• North Palisade (4341m), Sierra Nevada/Eastern Sierra, "U-Notch & Chimney variation" III-IV 5.2 50° (AD), 300m
• Rasac (6040m), Peru/Cordillera Huayhuash, East Face IV WI4 5.6
• Shiprock (2188m/7,178'), New Mexico, West face "Standard route" IV 5.9 A1, 550m

V

Восхождение от одного до двух дней , потребность в бивуаке . Самый сложный участок в районе YDS 5.8. (~TD/ED-).

• Aiguille du Midi (3823m), Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, South Face "Ma Dalton" V 5.12c (ABO- f7b+/IX- V, A1), 120m
• Devil's Thumb (2777m/9,077'), Alaska, South Pillar V 5.10 A2
• Grand Teton (4197m/13,770') , Rocky Mountains/Tetons, Northwest Ridge V 5.7 (uiaa V), 1433m
• Howser Tower , South (3364m/11,033'), Bugaboos, "Beckey Chouinard" V 5.10a A0 (TD+), 3,500'
• La Esfinge (5325m), Peru/Cordillera Blanca/Huandoy, "1985 route" V 5.11c (uiaa VI+,A1, yds 5.10, C1-2, f6c-/7a)
• Liberty Bell , Cascades/North Cascades , "Liberty Crack" V 5.8 A3 (free at 5.13b), 12 pitches
• Mount Andromeda (3450m) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, N Face "Andromeda Strain" V 5.9 A2 WI4 (ED1), 1400m total
• Mount Kitchener (3505m/11,500'), Canadian Rockies/Jasper Park, North Face "Grand Central Couloir" V 5.9 V/AI4 M6 VS (ED), 1000m
• Mount Kitchener (3505m/11,500') , Canadian Rockies/Jasper Park, North Face " Ramp Route" V 5.8 A1 (TD+), 1000m)
• Mount Rainier (4392m) , Cascades/Southern Cascades, "Willis Wall" V AI3 (IV-V/AI3), 1300m
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, NW Ridge "Emperor Ridge" V 5.6 (TD-ED2), 2500m
• Mount Stuart (9,415') , Cascades, "Girth Pillar" V 5.11c or 5.10 A4
• Mount Temple (3544m/11,626') , Canadian Rockies/Banff, North Face "Greenwood-Locke" V 5.8 A2 (or 5.9 M6) (TD+), 1200m
• Snowdome (3456m), Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, "Slipstream" V WI4+ (VI/WI4+ (80°)), 925m
• Vågakallen (942m), Norway/Lofoten, Storpillaren (north face) "Original" V 5.10c/d A2 (Nor 7+, Brit E3, A2), 700m (20 pitches)

VI

Двое и более суток . Несколько ночёвок. Обыкновенно включает сложные участки для свободного лазания и/или ИТО (~ ED1-5, AK 5-6).

• Ak-Su (5355m), Pamir/Pamir-Alai/Turkestan, North Face "Moshnikov's route" VI 5.10 A3 ( ED+ , Rus 6B ), 1500m
• Cerro Torre (3127m), Patagonia, " Compressor Route" VI 5.10b A2 70° ( ED-/ED1 , f6a, A2-3 , 80° ), 900m
• El Capitan (2307m) , Sierra Nevada/Yosemite, "The Nose" VI 5.10 A2 (free 5.13c, 950m
• El Capitan (2307m) , Sierra Nevada/Yosemite, "The Shield" VI 5.9 A3 ( ED , free f6a ), 950m
• Fitz Roy (3405m), Patagonia, West face "Supercanaleta" VI 5.10b A1 WI3 ( TD+/ED- ( f6a , A2 , 85° ), 1600m
• Great Trango Tower (6284m) , Karakoram, NW Face "Russian route" VII 5.11 A4 ( Rus 6B ), 2675m
• Kusum Kanguru (6367/20,883'), Himalaya/Nepal/Khumbu, North Face "Blanchard" VI AI5+
• Kwangde Lho (6187m), Himalaya/Nepal/Lumding, North Face (Hungo Face) "Lowe-Breashears" VI( VII/WI6 X ), 1400m)
• Mount Alberta (3619m/11,874'), Canadian Rockies/Jasper/Columbia Icefield, N Face VI 5.9 A3 (ED3), 1000m total
• Mount Foraker (5304m), Alaska, "Infinite Spur" VII 5.9 AI4 ( AK6 ), 9.000'
• Mount Huntington (3730m), Alaska, West Face " Harvard Route" VI 5.9 A2 ( AK5 )
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, Emperor Face (NW) "Cheesmond-Dick" VI 5.9 A2 ( ED ), 2200m
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, Emperor Face (NW) "Stump-Logan" VI 5.9 A2 ( ED ), 2500m
• Mount Robson (3945) , Canadian Rockies/Jasper, Emperor Face (NW) "Infinite Patience" VI WI5 M5 5.9 ( ED3 ), 2200m
• North Twin (3684m/12,087'), Canadian Rockies/Jasper Park, North face "Lowe-Jones" VI 5.10 A3 (ED3/4), 4,500'
• Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca, SE Buttress "Italian route" VI 5.9 A1 ED2( VI WI6 M6 ) 1000m
• Trollryggen (1742m), Norway/Romsdal/Trolltindane, Trollväggen " Norwegian Route" VI 5.10 A3 ( Nor VI+ , 7- , A0 ), 1500m
• Trollryggen (1742m), Norway/Romsdal/Trolltindane, Trollväggen " Russian Route" VI 5.10 A4 ( ED , Rus 6B , Nor VI+ , 6+ , A4 ), 1100m
• Trollryggen (1742m), Norway/Romsdal/Trolltindane, Trollväggen "Rimmon route" VI 5.10 ( Nor VI+ , 6+ ), 900m
• Trollryggen (1742m), Norway/Romsdal/Trolltindane, Trollväggen "Swedish route" VI 5.11 ( Nor VI+ , 6 , A2 , Nor VI+ , 7- Brit 6a ), 1000m)
• Vågakallen (942m), Norway/Lofoten, Storpillaren (north face) "Freya" VI 5.12+ A3 , 800m

VII

• Jannu, North Face "Russian route" VII 5.10d,A3+ M6 (3100m)