Route “Vspomnit vse” (“Remember everything”) 4B grade of difficulty (SE wall)

Lavrinenko A, Kuzmenko A, Nadtochy S. (December 2006)

The route starts in 50 meters to the left from the route “Podarochny nabor” (“Gift set”). It is easy to find the beginning of this route – it is begins with easy slightly sloping interior angle.

Deion of the route strip by strip.

Strip 0-1. Extension : 55 meters . Grade of difficulty: 5a. Along the interior angle and along the crack you have to climb up, come to the ledge. Station can be made on the tree.

Strip 1-2. Extension: 50 meters . Grade of difficulty: 5b. From the station you should go for 5 meters to the left, further climb up for 10 meters along the exterior side of flushing, then along slightly sloping plate up come to the ledge with a big tree. Station is there.

Strip 2-3. Extension : 50 meters . Grade of difficulty : 5 c . You have to climb up from the tree along the steep wall, come to a ledge with large juniper, then along the ledge you have to go to the left to the group of trees, from it you should climb up, it's easy, then you'll come to a wide ledge. All the difficulty of the strip is amassed in the first meters of the rope.

Strip 3-4. Extension: 60 meters . Grade of difficulty: 5b. Form the ledge you have to climb up along slightly sloping, strongly unfolded angle. There you will often come across climbing on rubbing the angle inside is covered with vegetation. Then you have to come to the ledge, along the ledge go to the left, to the tree. There you can make a station.

Strip 4-5. Extension: 30 meters . Grade of difficulty: 6a, A2. You should climb along the flushing, then along the crack, at the end of the strip you will see it would be necessary to use the technique of trad-climbing with hooks. Station can be made below overhang, there is a bolt.

Strip 5-6. The overhang seems worse than it is in fact . From the station you have to climb upwards and to the right, come in to the interior angle, there you'll find a bolt. Further you should climb up along the angle, sometimes using self-made points of rest (stoppers, middle cam devices are used), there also is a bolt. On the other side of the extreme you have to climb upwards and to the right, on rubbing, then you will come to mountain pasture.

It's better to climb the route using double rope, desirable of 60 meters long, but 50-meter long rope can also be used.

It is necessary to take hooks to the route.

Time of passing the route – 3-4 hours.

The route is irregular, looks like a route if the 3 rd grade of difficulty with attached rope of the 6 th difficulty grade. But it is beautiful, atypical for the Sokol.

Route “Non stop” 5B grade of difficulty, 250 meters long, 6b, A2.

Lavrinenko – Tsushko (the 5 th of January 2007)

Actually it is a variant, between “Zapiataia” (“Comma”) and “Bodun”. Later, in April, when A. Kuzminsky passed his route, his strips 2-3 and 3-4 appeared equal with our 2-3, for some reason he forgot to mention it.

Deion of the route strip by strip.

Strip 0-1. Extension: 50 meters . Grade of difficulty: 5c, A1. The first rope of “Zapiataia”.

Strip 1-2. 15 meters along “Zapiataia” up to the tree.

Strip 2-3. Extension: 55 meters . Grade of difficulty: 6a, A2. You have to climb up from the tree in the direction of the diagonal crack, then along the crack up to the end of it. Further you should climb along the plate upwards free climbing + trad-climbing, there are two bolts. Station can be made on two bolts.

Strip 3-4. Extension: 35 meters . Grade of difficulty: 6b, A2. From the station you have to climb upwards and to the right in the direction of the system of thin cracks, overgrow with grass. Along them you have to climb up, then a little bit to the left and then again upwards along the plate (there are lots of “humming” stuck on stones). The station has to be made in a small ledge there is a bolt and a hook.

Strip 4-5. Extension: 55 meters . Grade of difficulty: 6a, A2. You have to climb accurately using stuck up stones to the right and upwards, ten meters higher you will come to the route “Bodun”, further climb along it for 45 meters up to the mountain pasture.

We used hooks of mild steel + anchors, stoppers, relief skyhooks Cassin + BD Talon.

It is desirable to climb this route having two ropes, as the rope can be spoiled.

The route was passed in 7 hours, I think it is possible to repeat it in 5 hours.

Route “Zlobny Karlik” (“Spiteful Dwarf”) 5A? grade of difficulty, 255 meters long, 6b, A2.

Lavrinenko – Tsushko (the 7 th of January 2007)

The route starts in about 100 meters to the right from the beginning of approach to “Brov” (“Eyebrow”) and “Gran” (“Verge”).

Deion of the route strip by strip.

Strip 0-1. Extension: 50 meters . Grade of difficulty: 4. Easy climbing up to the tree along the crack.

Strip 1-2. Extension : 60 meters . Grade of difficulty : 5 b . From the tree you have to climb to the ledge below the route “Brov”.

Strip 2-3. Extension : 35 meters . Grade of difficulty : 6 a +/5 c , A 1. You should climb along the angle formed by wall and stuck up stone it is difficult to organize belay there. Station has to be made on the ledge using own hooks.

Strip 3-4. Extension : 60 meters . Grade of difficulty : 5 c . From the station you have to climb to the right and upwards, going in the direction of the crack, rounding “humming” stuck on stones”. Further you should move along the cracks, upwardly turning to the right in the direction of the ledge. Station can be made on a bolt and hooks.

Strip 4-5. Extension: 50 meters . Grade of difficulty: 6b, A2. From the station you have to start climbing for 5 meters to the left, further upwards along the angle. The relief is reach but destroyed, there are many unreliable blocks. Along the interior angle (there is a bolt) you have to come to the overhang, the overhang can be passed using self-made points of rest (hooks), further you should climb straight upwards, without going along the ledge, it can't help you/ the station can be made on the plateau, on your own hooks.

We used hooks of mild steel + anchors, stoppers, cam devices. I recommend you to climb with two ropes. As we passed the route for the first time, it took us 6 hours. It approximately can take 5 hours to repeat this route.