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(24.04.2006)
Дата изменения: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

21.04
After 3 days and 3 night spent at 6400 at C2 due a storm and heavy snowfall, I'm again here at 5300 meters of base camp in a sunny day. Included the night spent on the summit of Island peak there are already 4 night spent to acclimatize. Yesterday had been a difficult day with a extrem effort. In C2, blocked by the storm there were not only me, but aslo 12 sherpas and 3 alpinists. So I supposed to get a big help braking trail in 1 meter of fresh snow towards camp 1. With a big surprised and angry, I had to work very hard helped from 2 sherpas, Ang Dorji and Zulding, we did the biggest part of the work. Four hours braking trail and look for the fix rope covered from the fresh snow. I didn't understud if the other sherpas and climbers was to tired and unabled to help or wich was the reason of the missing help....

Exausted we arrived to C1 where we found many other climbers blocked since 3 days due the same reason. They were all in line, fixed in the rope but waiting for someone who works in braking trail towards Base Camp, meeting the 20 sherpas coming from the bottom working braking trails and opening the ice fall. Why the most experienced, the guide, the strongest of the climbers of C1 were only waiting and not working????!!! There was also some of them that were only able to speak into the walkie talkie and give orders. Stupid! Go first and work an don't waste time to give stupid orders. In that case the only thing that is necessary is power in the legs and in the muscles and no strategies!!!

So, even exausted I and the 2 sherpas continued to brake the trail and after 1 hours we meet the strong 20 sherpas coming from the bottom and we had been able to reach the base camp few hours later. No comments....

The bad news of the day is the daid of 3 sherpas during their climb to C2. A huge serac felt down right in the moment that the 3 sherpas was crossing that section.....

They were here to work and now they will remain here forewer. No comment...no word...only reflections.... Some of the sherpas alive, that were close to the three, came in base camp and came also to me asking to telephone at home announcing the tragedy or the missing dead... Simone

News: 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

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