(11.04.2006)
Дата изменения:
27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006
01.04.2006
...here I am again in Kathmandu, with the usual rituals, the usual problems,
the usual encounters made up of the usual questions. But in the end I always
come back to Kathmandu with pleasure and it is always nice to immerse
oneself in the ritual of starting the trekking, and the will to begin to
sweat it out and dream of one's vertical projects. You all know my project
this year, and I have talked about it on this website. I will be alone and
even this is nothing new. As far as climbing permits are concerned I managed
to organize them as usual and at base camp I will organize services with an
expedition of Polish friends going up Everest.
Tomorrow I set off for the trek together with them and we will also climb
Island Peak almost 6200mt. My idea is to spend a night on the summit of this
mountain because I want to acclimatize in the best possible way. The final
result of the ascent which I shall attempt will be a result of an optimum
physical condition.The next report is due in two days time from Namche at
3700metres, the Sherpa village.
Ciao, Simone.
03.04.2006
Namche Bazar, the village of sherpas.and of alpinists. How many times have I
already passed by here. The first time was in 1992 and now I think I have
been here over 30 times... This village which can now be called a town, has
changed a lot. There are no roads which you can drive along, you can only
reach Namche on foot, but apart from that it has nothing missing. Even if
you are at 3600 meters of altitude there is internet, a bakery, cake shops,
a bank, shops and stalls, bed and breakfasts etc.
Today the Poles and I set off from Pakding, 2600 m and very comfortably
arrived here, using our energy to make it last all day. To tell you the
truth in the last hour and a half I tried to accelerate my pacejust to check
out my engine, and everything is ok. Tomorrow we will stay here and we will
reach Syangboche for a flying visit, where our luggage and equipment arrived
via helicopter. We will take out just what we need for the next few days and
in the evening come back down here to sleep. The weather has been good and
has allowed us to take photos and films. Tomorrow we will do the same...
Ciao Simone
04.04.2006
Today is my second day at Namche Bazar. As usual I prefer to stay two nights
here at 3600 meters to give my body the right period of time to acclimatise
well without forcing things. In any case today I reached 3850 meters in
Syangboche to check my baggage and eqipment which arrived with a cargo
flight which also transported food and equipment for the village. I made the
most of my walk to reach Thame and then return to Namche Bazar. The weather
is quite good and I took photos and film even if I have been here more than
20 times. Tomorrow we will go to Deboche crossing Syangboche where the
famous Buddhist monastery is located. In Deboche there is the best lodge of
the valley the "Ama Dablam Garden Lodge" where I have spent a lot of time
during my past expeditions and where I have nice memories. Also this year
after having climbed till 8000 meters during my aclimatisation period I will
go back to that lodge to get 4/5 days rest and than return to base camp and
attempt the new route on Lhotse. Ciao
09.04.2006
Today beautiful weather and sunshine here in Chhukung. Yesterday we came
here from Dingboche (I'm still trekking with the polish "Falvit expedition",
who will attempt Everest) where we stood 2 days. During that period I walked
up to the Dingboche Ri at 5000 meters to test my "motor". Yesterday when I
arrived here at Chhukung at 4713 m, I climbed up to Chhukung Ri at 5600
meters in only...56 minutes... I feel very well and I hope to be in this
condition for all the expedition... Every day I record all my physiological
parameters by my polar watches and at the evening I download them on my PC
for checking all.Today we will go to Island Peak base camp and tomorrow we
will try the summit at 6180 meters. My idea is to remain on the summit with
my tend and sleep there so I can give big stimulation to my acclimatisation
process. In fact I would like to be immediately fast during the first part
of my Lhotse climb. I don't like to spend 1 minute more in the danger
icefall than necessary....
Ciao Simone
10.04.2006
GPSWPT Lat N027 Deg 055'012.352" Lon E 086 Deg 056'005.680" Alt 06131m
04:36:08Z 10.04.06
Here is the satellelite GPS from Simone arrived today by SMS in Italy.
Simone is on the summti from Island Peak. Now he has there his tend and he
will sleep this night there for acclimatisation.....
Tomorrow more details and pictures
Big Hello from Simone
via SMS
About expedition |