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(11.04.2006)
Дата изменения: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

01.04.2006

...here I am again in Kathmandu, with the usual rituals, the usual problems, the usual encounters made up of the usual questions. But in the end I always come back to Kathmandu with pleasure and it is always nice to immerse oneself in the ritual of starting the trekking, and the will to begin to sweat it out and dream of one's vertical projects. You all know my project this year, and I have talked about it on this website. I will be alone and even this is nothing new. As far as climbing permits are concerned I managed to organize them as usual and at base camp I will organize services with an expedition of Polish friends going up Everest.

Tomorrow I set off for the trek together with them and we will also climb Island Peak almost 6200mt. My idea is to spend a night on the summit of this mountain because I want to acclimatize in the best possible way. The final result of the ascent which I shall attempt will be a result of an optimum physical condition.The next report is due in two days time from Namche at 3700metres, the Sherpa village.
Ciao, Simone.

03.04.2006

Namche Bazar, the village of sherpas.and of alpinists. How many times have I already passed by here. The first time was in 1992 and now I think I have been here over 30 times... This village which can now be called a town, has changed a lot. There are no roads which you can drive along, you can only reach Namche on foot, but apart from that it has nothing missing. Even if you are at 3600 meters of altitude there is internet, a bakery, cake shops, a bank, shops and stalls, bed and breakfasts etc.

Today the Poles and I set off from Pakding, 2600 m and very comfortably arrived here, using our energy to make it last all day. To tell you the truth in the last hour and a half I tried to accelerate my pacejust to check out my engine, and everything is ok. Tomorrow we will stay here and we will reach Syangboche for a flying visit, where our luggage and equipment arrived via helicopter. We will take out just what we need for the next few days and in the evening come back down here to sleep. The weather has been good and has allowed us to take photos and films. Tomorrow we will do the same...
Ciao Simone

04.04.2006

Today is my second day at Namche Bazar. As usual I prefer to stay two nights here at 3600 meters to give my body the right period of time to acclimatise well without forcing things. In any case today I reached 3850 meters in Syangboche to check my baggage and eqipment which arrived with a cargo flight which also transported food and equipment for the village. I made the most of my walk to reach Thame and then return to Namche Bazar. The weather is quite good and I took photos and film even if I have been here more than 20 times. Tomorrow we will go to Deboche crossing Syangboche where the famous Buddhist monastery is located. In Deboche there is the best lodge of the valley the "Ama Dablam Garden Lodge" where I have spent a lot of time during my past expeditions and where I have nice memories. Also this year after having climbed till 8000 meters during my aclimatisation period I will go back to that lodge to get 4/5 days rest and than return to base camp and attempt the new route on Lhotse. Ciao

09.04.2006

Today beautiful weather and sunshine here in Chhukung. Yesterday we came here from Dingboche (I'm still trekking with the polish "Falvit expedition", who will attempt Everest) where we stood 2 days. During that period I walked up to the Dingboche Ri at 5000 meters to test my "motor". Yesterday when I arrived here at Chhukung at 4713 m, I climbed up to Chhukung Ri at 5600 meters in only...56 minutes... I feel very well and I hope to be in this condition for all the expedition... Every day I record all my physiological parameters by my polar watches and at the evening I download them on my PC for checking all.Today we will go to Island Peak base camp and tomorrow we will try the summit at 6180 meters. My idea is to remain on the summit with my tend and sleep there so I can give big stimulation to my acclimatisation process. In fact I would like to be immediately fast during the first part of my Lhotse climb. I don't like to spend 1 minute more in the danger icefall than necessary....
Ciao Simone

10.04.2006

GPSWPT Lat N027 Deg 055'012.352" Lon E 086 Deg 056'005.680" Alt 06131m 04:36:08Z 10.04.06
Here is the satellelite GPS from Simone arrived today by SMS in Italy. Simone is on the summti from Island Peak. Now he has there his tend and he will sleep this night there for acclimatisation.....
Tomorrow more details and pictures
Big Hello from Simone
via SMS

About expedition

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