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(22.02.2010)
-. ( ) Kairn (Cedric Larcher)
"Huber Brother" interview (english version) from Blomu production on Vimeo. : BEAL |
, 2009 . () |
, (Hamish Dunn, Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley) Nick Estcourt Award-2010 - (Tahu Rutum, 6651) . ( 19 21 ) - , , , ϸ (North Face of the Dru, Walker Spur, Central Pillar of Freney, Peuterey Integral).
(Tahu Rutum) , (Hispar Glacier, - Kanjut Sar).
1977 , , (Kazuya Mitsumoshi, Kazuto Obata, Yoshinobu Tanaka, Yukio Usagawa), , (Nobuo Kuwahara), - .
30 , (Kyle Dempster) - .
21 , A3, - , , , . .
, .
: (Tahu Rutum) - , - . Lee Harrison |
(16.12.2009)
"Free south Africa" . FFA (Torres del Paine) the South African Route 5.12c/7b+ 1200 : |
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(Hoekstra, Martin Fickweiler, Niek de Jonge Jelle Staleman) (Ren Land) .
: The Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak Small Lion. AAJ 2008 , 10 (32) (Apusinikajik glacier) The Cenotaph, 900- . 12 2009.
, , (Shark Tooth), , Disappointment Pleasure. 17 The Cenotaph.
:
( ) - Controversy (VII [5.10d], 900), -.
, 25 2009 , - (McDonnell Peak, 2000) , 2 (Gerard McDonnell). The Small Lion, 1000 (IV [5.5], 450).
, . 30 2009. : Alpinist |
: 19.10.2012 . .
30 2009
" , .
, , , Molar Traverse Mescalito New Dawn Wall.
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(Tim Kemple, Pete Vintoniv) .
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(East Ledges).
, .
, .
. !" Mountain.RU : BD |
: 5.13 (Pamela Pack) 20- (Zion National Park). 5.13, 15 30 .
. . . , 159, , , - . : 2009
, Climbing technic : Climbing
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Ҹ. : + 20 , Ҹ (Colin Haley, Dave Turner), , Regular Northwest Face route (Half Dome) The Nose 20 .
, 3:58 pm (Half Dome) Regular Northwest Face route.
The Nose 12:30 am. . :
, , .
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Lurking Fear , The Nose.
Ҹ . , : , , The Nose? - -, , , Great Roof, , . 4 , , , 11,5 .
, , Half Dome Nose.
Death Slabs , , , 3:58pm. Ace of Base, MC Hammer , The Nose.
, , -, .
, : 15 20 !.
? . ? . , , ! : 31 () 2009 : BD |
: 19.10.2012 . (Kevin Jorgeson, Tommy Caldwell) 1000- , Mescalito. , , - , , . -. 13 , 5.13 . : " , , , .
, , . , , , ". 2009
Mountain.Ru: : BD |
: 27.08.2019 , Wusel (Max Dunsser, Reinhard Hones, Martin Wusel Schindele) 7b+ Yellowwood Amphitheatre.
, , , . --2009 (Rock Rally climbing event) (Waterval Boven), , (Daniel Gebel) . Episode I Fight Against the Dark Side of Gravity (7c) . I II (Episode II), . - 2009
Martin Schindele. Yellowwood Amphitheatre. : Climbing
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(17.11.2009)
() 20 22 , . : 20 . . . 21 (). 10 . 22 (). 10 . . . 15 () 20 . . . 8 905 9964172 .. 4 18 . , 88. |
IV- (Zion) Streaked Wall. - (Brian McCray, Chad Umbel) 11 Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet (VI 5.9 A4, 9 ). , , 9 13 2009, , (Nate Brown, Joe French, Ryan Frost), Wet Stone Wall (VI 5.10 A4, 11 , 1,700'). : , . - , Lord Helmet. 50- (Rubicon Ledge) , . 60 .
Wet Stone Wall , , 300 Lord Helmet. . . , , . Streaked Wall, Zion National Park, Utah, : Lord Helmet Wet Stone Wall. Nate Brown |
(Jeremy Roop, Joe Forrester) Chambe Face, . Lower Chambe Face (aka the Eastwood Route, 2,000') . Upper Chambe Face (Mt. Mulanje, Malawi) 900 . IV 5.10d.
Nkhalango Khoswe IV 5.10. . Mulanje Massif, Mount Mulanje, Malawi, Blantyre, 2226. Sapitwa Peak, 3002. 1800-2200.
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Dragon's Horns BMC Sports Council for Wales, (Steve Beckwith, Matthew Traver) Dragon's Horns, - Tioman. - 10- Waking Dream (5.9 A2) Dragon's Horn, 1999 (Scotty Nelson, Nick Tomlin). 2002 Waking Dream (Rosmann, Sharin) , (Abudullah Danial, Akmal Noor Al Haleq). - , The Malaysian Star. 2004 - (Dave Sharratt, Hank Jones) Waking Dream. , (Hong Kong), , , 2006 Dragon's Horns (aka Bukit Nekek Semekut). , , , , 100 , , , 13 . , , +35C. 'Great Roof', . - , - (E1 5b, A3). 13 , , . , , . 400 (South Horn). 14 . (Mukut). , , Mumbar Peak, Dragon's Horn . |
(Jeremy Aslaksen, Paul Gagner) King Fisher ( Fisher Towers). Weird Science (V 5.7 A4 R) 150- , , Death of American Democracy (5.10 A4 R). 14 . , The Big Nasty (V 5.8R A4, Raleigh-Shipley, 1997) Doric Column Mystery Towers, . : 14-17 2009 (Weird Science)
Weird Science, 5.7, A4(Re-ee) 5 150 FA Jeremy Aslaksen, Paul Gagner - 10/14 10/17/2009 : - Weird Science , - Death of American Democracy
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: 27.10.2009 . Los Tigres del Norte (7c, 1200) - (Cerro Capicua) , (Cochamo Valley, Chile).
, "- " 2001 "Pluja, Fam i Feina", 2005 "Adios Michi Olzowy".
, 2.
, , 7.
.
Trip To Cochamo from Michi Tresch on Vimeo. |
Free Rider. ! (, ) (Cedric Lachat), , , Free Rider ( 5.12d) Salathe Wall (El Capitan). , , , , ( ). 25- (Chloe Graftiaux). , .
, Golden Gate, 11 Heart Ledge, .
Heart Ledge . , , 5.12d (Huber Variation) 24 , , -.
, 5.12 , 5.12+, Roof Salath Wall. . Free Rider. Free Rider . : 2009 |
, Dangermouse, E9 7a
(Miles Gibson) (Wimberry), (Sickbay Shuffle). , . , , , , , , , , 26 2009 , . , . , 2 x E9, 3 x E8, 3 x E7 6 x E6, , 10, () : UKC
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. 2009 Naughty Daddies (630 7b) Nafees Cap, , 7, (Charakusa Valley, Karakorum) . (Adrian Laing), (Scott Standen) (Bruce Dowrick) (Jon Sedon) , (Charakusa Valley) , Nafees Cap, , , . Ledgeway to Heaven (1300, 7c), , (Nicolas Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Adam Pustelnik) 2007 . , , , . 7b, , . , - , , . , 20 , , Ledgeway to Heaven. Ledgeway to Heaven, . , . Naughty Daddies 630 , 7b. 16 19 , , . . , . |
. K7 10 2009 , , (Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol, Elio Orlandi) The Children of Hushe (1100, 7b A2) K7 (5700, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan), 14 Nayser Brakk (5200).
The Children of Hushe, (Riccardo Cassin), 1500 (1100 470 ). , , : (Rolando Larcher) 43 , , , . (Fabio Leoni) 44 , , -. , - . 45- (Michele Cagol) , , - 51- (Elio Orlandi) , , . ( ), ( ).
, . 2008 , , 'El Gordo, El Flaco y LAbuelito' (Torres del Paine, 1200, 7a+ A3+). - Children of Hushe. . . , , : - , . . (), , . : La Sportiva, Montura, Petzl, Salewa.
THE CHILDREN OF HUSHE |
Full House (Phil Gruber, Brett Nelson) Diamond Longs Peak. Full House La Dolce Vita (5.8 A4, Casarotto-Fowler) Gear and Clothing (5.9 A4, Copeland-Hirt), 5.12 8 , 5.11 .
, , , , , Diamond. , 5.12 Diamond, , , Full House Diamond, , , : 28 2009 : Climbing |
(Ines Papert) (Lisi Steurer) "Power of Silence" 400, 5.13a Middle Huey Spire (Cirque of the Unclimbables). , Kwangde Shar (6093), , , . 2310- Middle Huey Spire, 1977, Karl Kosa, Erwin Weilguny Erich Lackner. , 2 2009 . , .
, , "Power of Silence", 7 2009 . , , "South East Buttress" Lotus Flower Tower "Riders on the Storm" East Huey Spire, 5.12 d (7c). , Lotus Flower Tower 800- "South East Buttress", 5.10c, 9.5 "Riders on the Storm", 5.12 d (7c, 11 ) Huey Spire. (Chris Atkinson, Marc Piche), : Arcteryx, Gore Tex, Black Diamond, Lowa, Julbo, Wild Roses, Suunto. Cirque of the Unclimbables,
Power of Silence - Middle Huey Spire,
Riders on the Storm - East Huey Spire, ( Unicorn Peak) A - Proboscis, B - Flattop, C - Bustle Tower, D - Terrace Tower, E - Mt. Meringue, F - Higher Polymer (far away), G - East Huey Spire, H - Middle and West Huey and Phenocryst (all overlapping), I - Lotus Flower Tower, J - Tathagata, K - Parrot Beak Peak, L - Mount Contact, M - Tara Tower
1997, Paul Friberg Kurt Blair "The White Tower" Terrace Tower ( 22a) "Riders on the Storm" East Huey Spire ( 32b). |
(Chris Brazeau, Jon Walsh) , (Auyuittuq National Park), ( ) - , . , :
(Chris Brazeau) , (Weasel Valley).
Pangnirtung , , , (Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse, Stphane Hanssens) (Silvia Vidal). (Mt. Asgard), , , 42 , 32 10 . - , , .
28 , , , - . : - (Asgard's South Tower) (5.12-, 600). , , . , . (Asgards North Tower), (5.11+ C1, 800). , - , 10 - 5.11-, . 60- , 5.11, -, , , .
, , Whiskey Gonzales, 2009. :
The Scott Route (5.11-) (Asgards North Tower).
Stories in Stone (5.12- A0, 600), (Mt. Walle).
Mt. Thor (5.8).
Mt, Menhir (5.10, 600)
Mt. Tirokwa. . , 15 , , . Arcteryx, Moutain Equipment Coop, Scarpa Sequel Naturels . 2009 : Jon Walsh, American Alpine Journal |
28 2009 (Erik Massih, Oskar Alexandersson) Life is Beautiful ( Suzuki-Yamaoka VI- 5.9 A2+ 5.13a, 7c+) (Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland).
14 19 . . , (Martin Jakobsson), , .
, , , , . War and Poetry (FFA ( ) Todd Skinner, Steve Bechtel, Mike Lilygren, Peter Mallamo, Paul Piana, 1998 VI 5.12c) (Ulamertorsuaq formation). War and Poetry Geneva Dihedral (FA (): Dalphin, Piola, Probst, Wietliesbach, 1983 6b A4).
30 30 . 5.10, Arcteryx, Fjllsport Gothenburg, Maxim bars, Sasquatch, Sterling Ropes, SKF Tierra. : 2009 : Climbing |
. , (Nina Caprez, David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Giovanni Quirici), (Rainer Eder, Christoph Frutiger) , , (Lorenz Saladin), , , , 4200. , , , .
, 0, , . , 7b+max, 800 17 . (Fuzzy ) , , , , , (7b max, 24 ). |
: 8.10.2012 , 8c+/9a 2009 (Eneko Iker Pou) Orbayu, 8c+/9a, 510- (Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, ), . , - . .
Mediterraneo, 1980 . , , , , .
Orbayu (), , , . 2000 Action Direct 13- 9.
. Orbayu El Pilar del Cantabrico (8a+, 500, 1997), Zunbeltz (8b+, 500, 2003), Quinto Imperio 8b, 500, 2006) Lurgorri (8c+, 250, 2006).
Orbayu () , , Solo per vecchi Guerrieri (8c/9a, 150, Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla 2006, , ground up), Wogu Rtikon (Adam Ondra, 8c, 230, 2008, (Beat Kammerlander) 1997 ), Pan Aroma (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, 8c, 500, Alexander Huber, 2007) Bellavista (8c, 500 Alexander Huber, 2001).
Mountain.RU:
. Orbayu, 8+/9.
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5.14 (Justin Edl) , Home on the Range (5.14-) Coyote Wall (Vedauwoo) Laramie, Wyoming. , (Steve Petro) Fiddler on the Roof (5.13+) Freemont Canyon. , (Matt Segal) , 5.14. : Climbing |
6+ Fisher Towers? (David Palmada, Esther Olle) - ( , Fisher Towers), A6+. Look Out! Danger 11 , , , A6+, - A5 - A4+. . : Desnivel |
- .
, 17 2005 , (Alexander Huber), , (Voie Petit, Grand Capucin, 3838, Mont Blanc) . ( , -, 1951) 1997 - (Arnaud Petit, Stefanie Bodet), .
2007 . , , , , . - (James McHaffie, Ben Bransby) , , . -: ! , , , . Mountain.RU : DMM
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