"Hi,

just wanted to apologize for disturbing the russian climbers in the troll wall earlier this summer. They looked a bit lonely on that wall, so I figured they would be happy to get a visit.
Their hospitality was greatly appreciated.
Glad to hear they made it."

Hans Holmefjord, Norway

All photos (количество: 2)

Unfortunately, we did not climb the entire "Baltic" route as could not find an exit after the hanging bastion. Due to this we made the decision to continue on the Norwegian route. We are not very tragic about that :)

In the result, the logical line of more than 40 pitches is opened: 1200n, 6b +, А3. All our epopee lasted ten days and ten nights".

And a little more details about the climb.

Pavel Fedorov:
"Finally we managed to summit! Banzai!
At last we are able to sleep without self-belay and go on both legs. Everyone finds oneself perfect.
It is a pity only that we could not find the exit to the second part of "Baltic" route, and had to go up the Norwegian route. Last two days especially troubled us, weather was hard, all time was poured with a rain and our trunks became very heavy. Toward the end we started to food.

The summit access presented continuous traverses. For our ten day round wall trip only a retrieving rope left safe. The others were made of 2-3 knots in places of torn braiding.
Clipping on the fixed ropes strongly acted as a brake on climbing progress. We got the summit at midnight covering with a fog and decided to roll ourselves up in the tent of the portaledge and spend the night right there in stones as could not find the descent route. The next morning the following surprise waited for us: planned two hours of descent turned into a ten-hour campaign on moraines. More importantly we had the wit to send forward a guy to rent a vehicle.

In the evening all the camping met us with a hurricane of applause. It appears all the ten days they steadfastly watched us and even placed their bets. In general, we appeared in the center of attention! Even we were treated with pancakes baked to our returning. There were a lot of messages on reception with kind wishes even from the guys from Saint Petersburg. And now we are waiting for a planned small banquet (a base-jumper that had shot us on the wall during his jump promised to come) and rest and once again rest!"

All photos (количество: 14)

29.07.06
Summit! Everyone is safe and sound.

"Today we have fought out bravely a downpour and a lot of flashes of lightning.

Got out the Norwegian route because missed the turn to the "Baltic".

There are another 200 meters to climb.
We hope to summit tomorrow"

"Today is the seventh day on the wall. We are bothered constantly to hang and observe pleased base-jumpers whooshing past.
One of them was just in ten meters from us.

The one thing warms the cockle of heart: we have found a ledge with some snow today"

Denis Savel'ev

23.07.06
We are pressed for water absolutely. And have drunk all cognac :-) . Today we flung down some gas cartridges - we have them more than we need - they blow up cool. Out-of-sight! :)

Today at the foot of the wall we saw a guy aiming to climb Swedish route.

24.07.06
Our spirits sagged: today the Brit started Swedish route solo climb. Wherein rockfall constantly sounds. And died.
Local rescuers flied and took him from the wall for five minutes.

We keep climbing.

July, 18 Day of rest. It still rains. Weather seems not want to improve. 250 meters of "Baltica" is fixed.

July, 15. Doing the first full carry. Starting route "Baltica". Fickle weather with rains.

July, 16 A two-man team Maks-Grigory worked at the route. The other guys were sunning and getting up a portaledge.

July, 13 Route reco and training climb.

July, 12 The team safely reached a camping site under the wall. It was raining and the wall was folded in mist.
Buying food and preparation of the gear.

July, 9
Expedition start.