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(11.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

01.04.2006

...here I am again in Kathmandu, with the usual rituals, the usual problems, the usual encounters made up of the usual questions. But in the end I always come back to Kathmandu with pleasure and it is always nice to immerse oneself in the ritual of starting the trekking, and the will to begin to sweat it out and dream of one's vertical projects. You all know my project this year, and I have talked about it on this website. I will be alone and even this is nothing new. As far as climbing permits are concerned I managed to organize them as usual and at base camp I will organize services with an expedition of Polish friends going up Everest.

Tomorrow I set off for the trek together with them and we will also climb Island Peak almost 6200mt. My idea is to spend a night on the summit of this mountain because I want to acclimatize in the best possible way. The final result of the ascent which I shall attempt will be a result of an optimum physical condition.The next report is due in two days time from Namche at 3700metres, the Sherpa village.
Ciao, Simone.

03.04.2006

Namche Bazar, the village of sherpas.and of alpinists. How many times have I already passed by here. The first time was in 1992 and now I think I have been here over 30 times... This village which can now be called a town, has changed a lot. There are no roads which you can drive along, you can only reach Namche on foot, but apart from that it has nothing missing. Even if you are at 3600 meters of altitude there is internet, a bakery, cake shops, a bank, shops and stalls, bed and breakfasts etc.

Today the Poles and I set off from Pakding, 2600 m and very comfortably arrived here, using our energy to make it last all day. To tell you the truth in the last hour and a half I tried to accelerate my pacejust to check out my engine, and everything is ok. Tomorrow we will stay here and we will reach Syangboche for a flying visit, where our luggage and equipment arrived via helicopter. We will take out just what we need for the next few days and in the evening come back down here to sleep. The weather has been good and has allowed us to take photos and films. Tomorrow we will do the same...
Ciao Simone

04.04.2006

Today is my second day at Namche Bazar. As usual I prefer to stay two nights here at 3600 meters to give my body the right period of time to acclimatise well without forcing things. In any case today I reached 3850 meters in Syangboche to check my baggage and eqipment which arrived with a cargo flight which also transported food and equipment for the village. I made the most of my walk to reach Thame and then return to Namche Bazar. The weather is quite good and I took photos and film even if I have been here more than 20 times. Tomorrow we will go to Deboche crossing Syangboche where the famous Buddhist monastery is located. In Deboche there is the best lodge of the valley the "Ama Dablam Garden Lodge" where I have spent a lot of time during my past expeditions and where I have nice memories. Also this year after having climbed till 8000 meters during my aclimatisation period I will go back to that lodge to get 4/5 days rest and than return to base camp and attempt the new route on Lhotse. Ciao

09.04.2006

Today beautiful weather and sunshine here in Chhukung. Yesterday we came here from Dingboche (I'm still trekking with the polish "Falvit expedition", who will attempt Everest) where we stood 2 days. During that period I walked up to the Dingboche Ri at 5000 meters to test my "motor". Yesterday when I arrived here at Chhukung at 4713 m, I climbed up to Chhukung Ri at 5600 meters in only...56 minutes... I feel very well and I hope to be in this condition for all the expedition... Every day I record all my physiological parameters by my polar watches and at the evening I download them on my PC for checking all.Today we will go to Island Peak base camp and tomorrow we will try the summit at 6180 meters. My idea is to remain on the summit with my tend and sleep there so I can give big stimulation to my acclimatisation process. In fact I would like to be immediately fast during the first part of my Lhotse climb. I don't like to spend 1 minute more in the danger icefall than necessary....
Ciao Simone

10.04.2006

GPSWPT Lat N027 Deg 055'012.352" Lon E 086 Deg 056'005.680" Alt 06131m 04:36:08Z 10.04.06
Here is the satellelite GPS from Simone arrived today by SMS in Italy. Simone is on the summti from Island Peak. Now he has there his tend and he will sleep this night there for acclimatisation.....
Tomorrow more details and pictures
Big Hello from Simone
via SMS

About expedition

All photos (number: 3)


Ôîòî http://kairn.com
(11.04.2006)
Dani Andrada: New 8ñ +

Dani Andrada sent one more 8ñ + in Santa Linya. The route C.E.S. ultima ola opened in a cave is 25 meters and if to add the remaining 30 meters C.E.S. ultima ola would seem to be a good 9b.

Source: www.8a.nu

(7.04.2006)
ENTER NOW FOR ADVENTURE RACE RIGA CHALLENGE 2006! Date: August 18-20 2006
Place: Riga, city and region, Latvia
Team Composition: 4 members (both genders must be present)
Competitor Age: The minimum age for competitors in Elite and Sport class is 18, in Mass class - 17
Race: Unsupported non-stop race
Disciplines: Orienteering, biking, paddling, trekking, swimming, coasteering, climbing, rope work and special tasks (secret sections, be ready for anything!)
Length of course: 250+ km for Elite class, 150+ km for Sport class and 70+ km for Mass class
Duration:48 hours max for Elite class, 36 hours max for Sport class and 24 hours max for Mass class Team
Limit: 30 teams in Elite class, 40 in Sport class and 50 in Mass class (up to now - 110 teams in 2003, 98 teams in 2005!)
Organizers: City Adventure Agency, E-mail: vx@e-apollo.lv
The founders of this agency are two experienced adventurers: Kristaps Liepiòð(Alpinism instructor with 20 years of mountaineering experience, and the author of idea of creative association Vertical X and the organizer of historic series of VX adventureraces, major race in Baltic states) and Edgars Liepiòð(orienteering well in forest pathways, the participant of uncountable adventure races, the founder of sports club “Concorde”).

Adventure search and accepting the challenge of tough affairs unit us.
This is what we want most of all! And this is why we are here and address you– adventures change the attitude towards life!
Desire to obtain the unknown and earlier not felt moves us forward. In adventures… Join us!

All photos (number: 5)

Source: Kristaps Liepins


Andris Malasevskis - member of expedition
(7.04.2006)
In 10 april 4 climbers from Latvia - Andris Malasevskis, Atis Plakans, Kaspars Klapkalns, Liga Plakane are going to Himalaya to climb Shisha Pangma (8027m) main summit.

This is the first Latvian expedition to this mountain and first 8000m peak for all expedition members.

We will go with Asian-trekking to base camb and back.

(6.04.2006)
BERGSON WINTER CHALLENGE: The Russians are the third (out of team classification that seems to become a good tradition :)

The Russian Arena Adventure Team (Artem Rostovtsev the captain, Michael Pershin, Jury Borodulin, Anna Burlinova) took part in one of the hardest winter races in Sudetes Mountains (of southwestern Poland and the northern Czech Republic).
Despite of one of participants had not stayed the distance (Jury Borodulin was beaten down by severe angina) and following team's disqualification, they continued the race and finished - out of classification - the third.

Bergson Winter Challenge.
Karpacz, Poland. February, 27 - March, 4. Results.

1. Nordic Fitness Sport (Finland) - 91:19
2. Salomon Nawigator (Poland) - 93:42
3. Salomon/Nutrend (Czechia) - 96:20
(-). Arena Adventure Team (Russia) - 96:20 (out of classification due to medical condition of one of team's members)
4. BASK (Ukraine) - 103:20
5. Outdoor Sports Econom/Internet Billboard (Czechia) - 118:38

In total 13 teams from 8 countries started the race.

February race in Patagonia-2005

(6.04.2006)
Chomo Lonzo. Valery Babanov New Project. Interview with TVMountain.com

Video

(5.04.2006)
Extreme skier Doug Coombs was lost in La Grave yesterday

A guide and an extreme skier - the American Doug Coombs and his friend were found dead in La Grave. To all seeming they went on ice or were engulfed in a small snow purge on abrupt couloir "Polichinelle" in sector Freaux.

The accident took place yesterday during afternoon, at about 2000m. 48 years old Coombs and his 32 years old mate fell down about 200 meters on rocks. The rescuers from Briason arrived to the site at 17.30 but it was already late, the both skiers were dead of injuries.

Source: www.kairn.com

(5.04.2006)
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu: The organization marathon finally finished The organization marathon finally finished. Every time I do that a lot of trouble appears.
One thing I would like to tell you: "My friends are my inestimable wealth".
"You, probably, are going to hitch-hike to the Himalayas? - one young lady asked me.
Hardly such question would come with relevance for a football player or a girl with a tennis-racket. This is entirely a fault of my rucksack. Its presence assumes that his owner should somehow to move with it.

But our things stand much easier, we go a civilized way. We fly to the Himalayas and then tomorrow we take off by helicopter to mountain's foot. The prospective problem appeared a reality. Strike of maoists drag on for 5 days. But we will fly over it. And farther we plan to make first full carry to base camp.

(5.04.2006)
Baltic Open Bouldering Edition Results

A
1 Stanislav POPLAVSKIY RUS
2 Deniss CIGANOVS LAT SKK
3 Pavel PESKIN RUS Baurock.ru

1 Natalia MINEEVA RUS
2 Julia SHORIKOVA EST TKK
3 Yulia NITAEVA RUS

BC
1 Jurijs KRASANOVS LAT SKK
2 Gediminas SIMUTIS LIT LTC
3 Dmitrijs OGURCOVS LAT SKK

1 Egle KIRDULYTE LIT LTC
2 Vesta LEIKAITE LIT LTC
3 Elza KALNINA LAT RSP

DE
1 Migle ZUKAUSKAITE LIT LTC
2 Regina ZAICEVA LAT SKK
3 Mara VECELE LAT PG

1 Kostas TURCINAVICIUS LIT LTC
1 Edvinas ALISAUSKAS LIT LTC
2 Evgenijs PLATONOVS LAT SKK

Amateurs
1 Dmitrijs NESTEROVS LAT SKK
2 Martins DENISOVS LAT
3 Janis VAIVODS LAT

1 Kristine MALISEVA EST
2 Dace SMITE LAT Falkors
3 Oksana ZAGARUIKO LAT SKK

All photos (number: 25)


Rustam Gelmanov
(4.04.2006)
First International Bouldering Tournament in Ukrainka. Winners - Olga Shalagina and "the secret Russian weapon" - Rustam Gelmanov.

The first pancake is not always lumpy - in Ukraine First International Bouldering Master finished.

First day:
A beautiful place, a boarding-house in the middle of the wood. There are leather sofas and bathrooms of 15 m2 in the rooms.

Second day: Qualification: Olga Bibik sent all the problems first go. Olga and Yana Chereshneva (Russia), Tanya Tarasova (Russia), Olga Shalagina (Ukraine), Sveta Tuzhilina, Melanie Son (France) qualified for the final.
Olga Bibik: "The competitions are ace-high, music is class, DJ is cool! Russian guys have not failed us and all got to the final! "

Men - finalists:
Salavat Rakhmetov (Russia, Moscow), Rustam Gelmanov (Russia, Moscow), alternate climber Vasily Kozlov (Russia, Krasnoyarsk) invited instead of Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Jerome Meyer, the winner of the of World Cup First Stage in Birmingham, Gedeon Loach, Remi Mulliez (France) and Tomas Mrazek (Czechia).

Finals:

Not most predicted hands:

Women
The first place wins the world champion Olga Shalagina (Ukraine, Odessa), the second place - Tanya Tarasova (Saint Petersburg, Russia), the third place - Sveta Tuzhilina, Olga Bibik is the fourth, Melanie Son - the fifth, Julia Abramchuk - the sixth.

Men
1. Rustam Gelmanov (!!!), Russia, Moscow
2. Salavat Rakhmetov, Russia, Moscow
3. Gedeon Loach, France
4. Jerome Meyer, France (Olga Bibik was the first in Birmingham as well as Jerome, and this time she's at the same place too. Concurrence?)

It remains to add that the route-setters were Sergey Shemulinkin, Serik Kazbekov, Igor Gusak and others.

With good start!

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