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(29.04.2006)
Corinne Theroux has got back from her ten-day trip across Iran where he taught Iranian women in rock-climbing.

Corinne Theroux, rock-climbing champion of France, one of the lead world bouldering climbers, has got back from her ten-day tour in Iran where he taught about 15 Iranian women in rock-climbing.

There was not any difficulty in communication: Iranian women did not talk about policy and about the American interference in the affairs of their country, but took an active interest in climbing technique and climbing veiled when a man came into a gym.
"They are short of freedom. There is only one man - husband - in their world. Even I for 10 days visited a restaurant once while Jerome Meyer engaged with boys - climbers was having a good time on full: skied and participated in various parties...
In general, this trip became an excellent lesson for me. I met very cheerful, happy women. They seem much happier than Europeans. They tested my gear and I tried on their clothes:)

The girls told me that they would like to be trained or take part in competitions outside the country very much, now I wish to help them but it is impossible now to organize that."

Source: www.20minutes.fr

(28.04.2006)
Bogomolov and Tortladze 27.04
For the last three days we did the matter of great consequence: pitched the camp at 6500m, hauled gear there. This day German and Japanese teams headed right there. Weather became to be more cheerful. Everything is proceeding according to plan.

News: 25-26.04, 24.04, 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

(28.04.2006)
Be born to climb. World Cup BOULDERING 3RD ROUND runs in sunny Italy. Rovereto waits!

On May, 12-14 in Rovereto, Italy, World Cup 2006 BOULDERING 3RD ROUND will take place.
For today the leaders (after Birmingham and Veliko Tatnovo) are Olga Bibik, Kilian Fischhuber and Jerome Meyer.
In parallel the Cup organizers open competitions under the common idea "Bouldering - For Everyone" and a serious congress under a slogan "Born to climb" in partnership with psychotherapists, osteopathes, psychologists, doctors, technical directors etc. devoted to researching characteristics of the individuums "born to climb". We are conscious of being watched (ñ) :)

Check out on the Mountain.RU:
Bulgaria. World Cup: BOULDERING 2ND ROUND. Champion's Impressions
Olga Bibik. Impressions after World Cup in Birmingham

Source: www.planetmountain.com

(27.04.2006)
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

News from 24.04.2006
Third day of antibiotic therapy and tooth continues to pain. Yesterday I phoned to my Dentist Fabrizio Gamba and he told me that it is an inflammation under the artificial tooth I get since 3/4 years. That's why I started a 5 days cycle of Antibiotic and this is also the reason why I'm still in base camp. The pain become strong if I press vertically the tooth  (when I eat the paint become unsupportable) but  during the day the pain is no so bad.....

Today I planned to go to C2 and tomorrow to C3, but as I told I prefer to finish the antibiotic therapy here at base camp. The forecast for next days is also quite bad. 

Here at base camp the life is going as usual and there are always many things to do. The news we get from Kathmandu said that slowly the situation is returning toward the normal life. The democracy process started again and we hope that the King will not influence the decision of the people and the parliament. Also the Maoist has to be invited at the table to discuss their position and find a solution.

Today my Polish friends with whom I'm sharing base camp services and Everest permit reached C2. They will remain there for 2 days and maybe after that period they will attempt to go C3.

Today, for the first time I will show their faces and names.

Simone

News: 24.04, 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 4)

(27.04.2006)
Date update: 28.04.2006
Manasku. Bogomolov and Tortladze: have descended to BC.
We are forced to give way...

We have descended to base camp. Denis and Sergey are there too after their summit. Hopelessness! All the night it was snowing, zero visibility. We had been staying and waiting till 9.00 when it began to tighten from below.
The mood is varying. There comes change of phases of the Moon: we have to leave. We hauled the main gear at 6500m. Everything is OK.

April, 25, 2006
Bogomolov and Tortladze: "We run the snow blockade"

"Today we run the snow blockade in camp 1.
Set off at 6:00 and climbed up to 6500 m, in middle camp. There is a lot of work there, a lot of snow.
At last they have united participants of the team, but all the same the climbers carry tents Ft one or two, and in fact there is a good collective practice. Everything is OK".

Sergey Bogomolov

News: 24.04, 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

(26.04.2006)
Manaslu, Urubko, Samoilov: Summit!

Yesterday the Kazakhstan climbers Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov summited Mt. Manaslu at 11:45 (local time). The guys spent the night at 7450m and today plan to descend to ÂÑ.

Denis and Sergey became the first climbers managed to climb Manaslu during the period of "calm" since 2003.

Source: www.mounteverest.net

(26.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006

News from 24.04.2006

Hallo friends!
The weather remain quite good, even the blue sky for all the day remain a memory of last weeks. Tomorrow the polish group with whom I have the Everest climbing permit, will climb to C1 and the day after to C2. There are 4 days that I'm here in base camp and unfortunately since yesterday one of my tooth begin to pain. Sheet! So I started a antibiotic treatment, that will go one for 5 days. Tomorrow I will remain here due no progress had been made above C2 and I went there solo with my 26kg pack in 4 hours 20 min, organising my camp, spending 3 nights already last week. Now I will start to the high camps only when I will decide to go to 7300/7400 m and spend night there. It should happen after tomorrow or the day after. In the meantime I will continue to take care to my tooth....

Ciao Simone

News: 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 1)

(26.04.2006)
Rock Junior 2006

The European Youth Climbing Days 2006 - the fifth edition of the Rock Junior which will take place at Arco (Trentino - Lake Garda, Italy) on Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 June.

This is the world's largest climbing festival dedicated to the young generation of climbers aged between 5 and 13 who, together with their families, want to discover the climbing game in complete safety, while at the same time discovering the splendid natural habitat of the small town located close to Lake Garda, in the Trentino region of Northern Italy.

Two fun-packed climbing days await the young climbers and their families at the large open-air Climbing Stadium which, for the occasion, transforms into a made-to-measure children's playground.
Children will also be able to take part in the special Climbing Campus to discover the world of the rocks.

Maximum safety is guaranteed by: Mountain Guides Friends of Arco, Mountaineering School Prealpi Trentine, the Mountain Rescue services (SAT and Guardia di Finanza), the Moena Police Alpine Training Force (Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia di Stato di Moena) and SAT Accompagnatori di Alpinismo Giovanile.

The ARCO CLIMBING sports club will provide the technical support to the ROCK MASTER di ARCO ASSOCIATION for the event organisation.

To participate simply register on http://www.rockjunior.info

Organisation:
ASSOCIATION ROCK MASTER / C.P. 60 38062 ARCO, TN, ITALY/ TEL +39 0464 516830 / FAX +39 0464 517691 /
mail@rockjunior.info

Press Office Vinicio Stefanello / tel. 049 8808423 /stefanello@planetmountain.com
Nicholas Hobley / tel. 049 8808423 /hobley@planetmountain.com

(25.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

24.04
News from Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze. Foul weather...
We are out of luck with good weather. In the morning we set off heading camp 1 for the third time and were caught in the snow. Visibility was zero. We decided to spend the night and take a view of the situation.
Yesterday we met Japanese climbers. Together we discussed joint operating plans. Besides gold anniversary this expedition has the ecological aspect. Pollution of the Himalayas builds up in a global problem.

News: 21.04, 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

(25.04.2006)
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo

24.04.2006

On April, 22 Valery and four drovers with a trail of 10 yaks crossed the Sha-Ula pass. The Liaison officer, booked off sick, remained in the settlement of Kharta. On April, 24 the expedition reached base camp located at 4750m. There is a lot of snow and it continues snowing. Weather improvement is expected in early May.

Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God

Source: http://babanov.com

(24.04.2006)
Date update: 25.04.2006
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. 1st Speed World Cup. Results

24.04

SPEED Men: Five Russians at the first 5 places!

1. Sergey Sinitsyn (Russia, Ekaterinburg)
2. Alexander Pechekhonov (Russia, Meleuz)
3. Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky (Russia, Ufa)

SPEED Women:

1. Anna Saulevith (Russia, Ekaterinburg)
2. Tatyana Ruyga (Russia, Krasnoyarsk)
3. Olga Repko (Ukraine, Kharkov)

All results:women, men

22.04
Hip, Hip, Hurrah!!
Olga Bibik successively wins the World Cup events: BOULDERING 2ND ROUND! "Man's" gold at Austrian Kilian Fischhuber.

Olga Bibik reports from Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria: " Hurrah! I did it! I can't believe at all! Olga Shalagina (Ukraine)- the second, Anna Shtohr (Austria) - the third, Juliette Danion (France) - the fourth, Angela Eiter - the fifth and the sixth - Julia Abramchuk.

We are dog tired and got scrapes.

Men:
1- FISCHUBER Kilian (Autriche)
2- MULLER Tomas (Suisse)
3- MEYER jérome (France)
4- GAIDIOZ Loic (France)
5- MORONI Gabriele (Italie)
6- RAKHMETOV Salavat (Russie)
7- OLEKSY Tomek (Pologne)

Women:
1- BIBIK Olga (Russie)
2- SHALAGINA Olha (Ukraine)
3- STOHR Anna (Autriche)
4- DANION Juliette (France)
5- EITER Angela (Autriche)
6- ABRAMCHUK Julia (Russie)

22.04

Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. Girls. Only masters are qualified for the final.
Semifinal. According to the words of participants: "We have not climbed such horror for a long time... ".
Girls, qualified for the final:
Angela Eiter (Austria), the world champion in lead and the debutant of bouldering. This year she declared her participation in both disciplines: bouldering and lead, the leader of bouldering cups French Sandrine Levet this season abandoned bouldering in favour of lead.
Angela was the unique girl sent two semifinal problems, the four other girls sent only one.
Olga Shalagina (Ukraine), Juliette Danion (France) world champion in bouldering, Julia Abramchuk (Russia, SPb) "second number" in the last year's Cup rating, Olga Bibik (Russia, Krasnoyarsk) - the champion of Europe.

(24.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

21.04
After 3 days and 3 night spent at 6400 at C2 due a storm and heavy snowfall, I'm again here at 5300 meters of base camp in a sunny day. Included the night spent on the summit of Island peak there are already 4 night spent to acclimatize. Yesterday had been a difficult day with a extrem effort. In C2, blocked by the storm there were not only me, but aslo 12 sherpas and 3 alpinists. So I supposed to get a big help braking trail in 1 meter of fresh snow towards camp 1. With a big surprised and angry, I had to work very hard helped from 2 sherpas, Ang Dorji and Zulding, we did the biggest part of the work. Four hours braking trail and look for the fix rope covered from the fresh snow. I didn't understud if the other sherpas and climbers was to tired and unabled to help or wich was the reason of the missing help....

Exausted we arrived to C1 where we found many other climbers blocked since 3 days due the same reason. They were all in line, fixed in the rope but waiting for someone who works in braking trail towards Base Camp, meeting the 20 sherpas coming from the bottom working braking trails and opening the ice fall. Why the most experienced, the guide, the strongest of the climbers of C1 were only waiting and not working????!!! There was also some of them that were only able to speak into the walkie talkie and give orders. Stupid! Go first and work an don't waste time to give stupid orders. In that case the only thing that is necessary is power in the legs and in the muscles and no strategies!!!

So, even exausted I and the 2 sherpas continued to brake the trail and after 1 hours we meet the strong 20 sherpas coming from the bottom and we had been able to reach the base camp few hours later. No comments....

The bad news of the day is the daid of 3 sherpas during their climb to C2. A huge serac felt down right in the moment that the 3 sherpas was crossing that section.....

They were here to work and now they will remain here forewer. No comment...no word...only reflections.... Some of the sherpas alive, that were close to the three, came in base camp and came also to me asking to telephone at home announcing the tragedy or the missing dead... Simone

News: 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 6)

(22.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

21.04
Last night we saw stars in heaven for the first time for 2 weeks. Night was cold, since the morning the sky has been clear. All the mad climbers rushed on firm snow heading to camp 1. Now we are discussing our plans for tomorrow. There are too much ambitions and egoism, team spirit is not present. The Kazakhs, Urubko and Samoilov, want to go simultaneously upwards. The Spaniards want to set tents in camp 2, we could hardly agree about fixing.
We set off five together. Fixed ropes will be useful to everybody. Time will show. Everything is OK.

News: 22.04, 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

(21.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

15.04
Finally we arrived to the base camp of Everest and Lhotse at 5313 m (by GPS). There are many and many expedition. But Everest is Everest and ambitions are ambitions and this is the world.... Just yesterday the sherpas of the commercial expeditions arrived for the first time at C2 at 6303 m and the route is fixed till there. I would like to go to C2 already today due my good acclimatisation but I have to wait the Pusha, the buddist ceremony, before starting on the mountain. The Pusha will be tomorrow and so I will start after tomorrow. The conditions of the Everest and Lhotse face are incredibly dry and I feel that my eventual new route will be technically more difficult as I supposed, but I'm optimist in any case.Today also my polish friends of Everest expedition are with me in base camp preparing the equipment and waiting for after tomorrow. They will go to C1 and than to C2. From today my reports will be published regularly because in base camp I have solar panels and generator to charge my PC and modem.
Ciao Simone
As you can see from the picture, is here also my base camp girlfriend. Her name is Nastia :-)

16.04
Happy Easter from Simone Moro

News from 18.04.2006
Simone via satellite SMS
GPSWPT Lat N 027 Deg 058'054.412” Lon E 086 Deg 053'056.370”Alt 06362m 06:13:50Z 17.04.06 I climbed fast. After 5 hours I arrived at camp 2 with my 26 kilos rucksack. Than I worked 1 hour for my tend platform. I took ice for cooking the “tortellini”….

18.04.06
I’m still in camp 2 and I’m well. To much snow for going down. I will try to go down tomorrow. My batteries are low…
Ciao Simone

News from 19.04.2006
Still in C2. Simone via SMS

Barbara (Simone's wife): Hi, how is the situation today?
Simone: Nothing to do, also today and this night I have to stay here in C2…

Barbara: How are you?
Simone: I’m calm and Ok. I have food and gas for 3-4 days.

Barbara: There is somebody else there?
Simone: Yes, I discovered 3 tends with 3 Austrian 5 minutes above me and 10 sherpas 20 minutes above me. All blocked. The Icefall is closed.

Barbara: Everybody is ok?
Simone: Yes, but the people in C1 are without food and gas and are locking for in the other tends… My pulse is 58 per minute and I have enough food and gas.

Ciao till tomorrow
Simone

News: 11.04, 1-10.04

About expedition

All photos (number: 2)

(21.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu

20.04
This night it was 40 centimeter fall of snow, there can be no thought of climb continuation, the snow is knee-deep, and we are engaged in arranging the camp, excavating and moving our tents.

News: 19.04, 17.04

About expedition

(20.04.2006)
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo

19.04.2006
Weather makes own allowances.
From Valery's call: "… It has been snowing for two days. We managed to estrangefrom the mountain hamlet of Kharta located at 4000 m for 3,5 hours. The further way to base camp lays through the pass Sha-Ula (4900 m). The train of yaks cannot get over the pass in such weather conditions. The yaks shepherded by a mayoral and Liaison officer descended to the settlement. Even if the snowfall stops we will need 1-2 days more for the snow to become overconsolidated and melted or blown off by the wind.
We have 4 trekking days ahead from the pass up to Chomo Lonzo base camp. Despite of expedition schedule delay we are in cheerful mood."

Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God

Source: http://babanov.com


Photo by http://www.planetmountain.com
(20.04.2006)
11 years hence the first man's onsight... The First female 8b + onsight. Of course, Bereziartu :)

(Some more details for those who has not thrown your rocky shoes yet after reading the news preview):

Step by step the Basque girl Josune Bereziartu came nearer and nearer to this. And finally it happened on April 18 2006: "Hidrofobia", 8b +, onsight (!).

11 years back the Swiss guy Elie Chevieux made the first-ever onsight 8b (Massey Ferguson, Calanques, France, 1995) and in spite of the fact that for this time onsight frames have been expanded for one category nevertheless the list of climbing "elite" remains rather laconic.

The previous best female onsight "was limited" by simple 8b while flash was hardly more "expensive": 8b +.
It is interesting fact that an American girl Cathie Brown made it in 1999 on the same line: Hidrofobia (Spain, Montsant).

Source: www.planetmountain.com

(20.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu 19.04
It stopped snowing in the morning. The sky is clear. We dedicated this day to breaking trail up to camp I. But great boast, small roast. Snow is new and hard. Our perspective is dim. Let's see how matters stand.

News: 17.04

About expedition

(20.04.2006)
ARWorld Series Events and Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007

In 2006

XPD.......................................................Feb 20 - 3 March ‘06
Bergson Winter Challenge.................Feb 26 - 5 March '06
Bimbache Extrem Andulucia.............March 20 - 25 '06
Wilderness ARC Scotland..................May 27 - 4 June '06
ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2006 ..................Aug ‘06

Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007 (Wilderness ARC Scotland)

The Bull of Africa...............................May 30 - 10 June '06
EcoMotion Pro.....................................Oct
Bergson Winter Challenge.................Feb '07
Bimbache Extrem................................ March '07
ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP '07 ...... May 26 - 3 June

Source: http://www.arworldseries.com/ARWorldSeries/EventInfo/concept.asp


Picture by Fredrik Schenholm - www.schenholm.se
(20.04.2006)
Date update: 21.04.2006
On the road to Everest!

I am now together with skier Tormod Granheim and photographer Fredrik Schenholm in Nyalam in Tibet at about 3700 metres on the road to Everest. The ambition is to in about a month make a ski descent of the north face of Everest. Here is a short update from our first week, and you can also follow our progress on: http://www.everytrail.net/everest2006/

We started off in Chamonix where we spent the winter season skiing and preparing the expedition. We drove down to Milano the 29:th of March and took a long flight to Kathmandu in Nepal.

We had two busy days in Kathmandu where we in cooperation with Arun treks & expedition organized a lot of practical issues like visas, for Nepal and Tibet, and bought food for our two month long expedition. The only problem we had was that our cargo from Bergans with tents, sleeping bags and so on got stuck in Bangkok... It will hopefully be sent up to Tibet a couple of days after us though. We met Tschering Palde Bute and Lambabu Sherpa that will be our film and support crew, two very nice guys with a lot of Himalaya and film experience. We then went by jeep up to the Tibetan border. The Nepalese countryside is incredibly beautiful but it's sad to see all the military activity due to the conflicts between the Nepalese king and the Maoist rebells. Troops, guard towers and even some tanks along the curly mountain road. We had no problems whatsoever though and reached the border with the Friendship Bridge after fore hours.

Getting through the Chinese customs was as always a bit of a hassle but we were happy not having to pay a single yuan and spent the night in the stinking border town Zwangmu at about 2300 metres.

The next day, Sunday, we drove on bumpy roads up to the Tibetan high plateau. Quite a lot of snow along the road and we on one occasion passed through a dug out snow corridor with about five metres high snow walls!

The jeep a couple of hours later arrived in the little mountain town Nyalam at 3700 metres where we now have spent two days doing acclimatization hikes and a bit of bouldering. We will tomorrow head up to Tingri at about 4300 metres.

All the best!
Tomas Olsson

(18.04.2006)
The review of news from Nepal: Korshunov & Co are already in BC. The information about the Byelorussians, Czechs, Kazakhs...

On Saturday April, 15, Korshunov's team in full complement, the team of First Belarus Everest Expedition and also the Czech team of Cho Oyu Expedition took off from Katmandu to Kodari used the helicopter.
Today we received the message from Korshunov: they got BC Everest at 13.50 Nepalese time!

Today on April 17 at 7.30 am Maksut Zhumaev and Vasily Pivtsov flew off a charter to Jomsom for further trekking to Dhaulagiri base camp.

News from Nepal. 13.04 >>

Source: Royal Mount Travel, Katmandu, Nepal


Valeri in Delhi airport
(17.04.2006)
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo

14.04.2006

Valery calls from Katmandu:
On April, 12 I arrived in Katmandu and it was right the first day after the end of the strike. The life in the capital of Nepal resumes its natural course all the shops and stalls are open.
Today Valery is engaged in buying of food and on April, 15 early in the morning he will leave Katmandu. The same day Bolotov and Korshunov in other vehicle will head to the foot of Everest North face. Thus, their ways run in one direction in part but further they will go away: everyone has own aims and tasks.
Valery times to reach Base Camp under Chomo-Lonzo on April, 22.
On his way to Katmandu, at the airport of Delhi, he was agreeably surprised with a huge photo - panel of Meru Central peak that he had summited solo in 2001. The Expedition has started.
Wait for the further news from base camp.

All photos (number: 2)

Source: http://babanov.com

(17.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Sergey Bogomolov: "We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather."

Greetings! We have descended to BC. The route up to Ñ1 is normal, it's a pity only that every day it becomes to be covered with snow. We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather. Every of us are going to go upward.

Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze: "Tomorrow we will set off for the route reco... Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero."

We are in camp after had fixed 100 m of the rope. We were short of 50 meters more to get up to the top. The slope is very avalanche-hazardous. Tomorrow we will set off for route reco and then return to Camp 1. Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero. We congratulate all of you on Astronautics day!
Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze.

About expedition

(17.04.2006)
Fred Rouhling and Kill Bill, 8a, and Moon safari, 8a, and Imkansiz 8a, Héphaïstos 7c, ombre lunaire 7c.

Video: 1, 2, 3

Source: www.fredrouhling.com, www.kairn.com

(13.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

11.04
Again here in Chhukung in the "Ama Dablam lodge". I came directly here from Island peak summit, that I reached yesterday and where I spent the night. In fact I took all the necessary to organize a high camp and I slept just on the summit to better acclimatize before my climb along the Everest-Lhotse face. The night on Island peak had been not so good due a strong wind and snow fall. Today the weather is quite good and I came back easily here, even I have to walk on the snow. My polish friends slept at 5400 on Island peak and today or tomorrow they will reach the summit and come here. In the next days we will continue our trekking to Everest-Lhotse base camp.

Ciao
Simone

News: 1-10.04

About expedition


Dhaulagiri
(13.04.2006)
Who and where :) News from Katmandu. The Byelorussians are going to Everest, the Czechs - Cho Oyu, the Kazakhs - Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, the Russians - Everest.

Igor Kulishov reports from Katmandu: "We moved to a new office and changed the address of our web- site. In other respects - practically no changes.
Last night first three participants of the first Belarus Everest expedition from the Tibet side arrived. The expedition head - Vladimir Telpuk - arrives in the morning on April 14. The team plans to set off to base camp on April, 15.
The same day we will see a group of Czech climbers to Tibet, under Cho Oyu. The team consists of 11 members, expedition's leader- Milan Wlasak. The team is expected to fly to Katmandu in the evening on April 13.
Tonight Vasily Pivtsov is arriving. He together with Maksut Zhumaev aim to try Dhaulagiri and Annapurna this season plans in a two-man team. Maksut is already in Nepal. For more than two weeks of staying here he managed to male trekking up to Everest base camp. They plan to set off from Katmandu to Beni up to the start point of trekking on April15. If the road becomes to be trafficable by this time... Since April, 6 and till now there has been no opportunity to reach up to Pokhara by ground transport vehicles....
On April 13 in Katmandu is expected arriving the "VBD Everest 2006 expedition" in structure of Surmonin Sergey, Korshunov Boris, Totmyanin Nikolay, Bolotov Alexey. Their aim - Everest from the North. Team's departure from Katmandu is planned on April 15.

Royal Mountain Travel Katmandu, Nepal

(13.04.2006)
Totmyanin, Korshunov and Bolotov. Everest

On the way toward Everest Nikolay Totmyanin: "And again, exactly as in last year, I hopped the steaming out train. I pick up the slack instead of a participant ped out. The aim of a three-man team is Everest via classical route from the North. We start on April, 12".

Yesterday in Moscow a press conference concerning team's leaving to Nepal was held.
The team: Nikolay Totmyanin, Alexey Bolotov and Boris Korshunov. On chance of a successful ascent Boris pretends to become the eldest climber summited Everest.

(12.04.2006)
Date update: 13.04.2006
Rosta Stefanek on the "female" Bereziatu's Bimbaluna 9a/a +.

Rosta Stefanek announced his sending "the female nine" Bimbaluna, 9a/a +, in Saint Loup, Swiss area.
Earlier Francois Nicole (a brother of Fred Nicole) and a well-known Basque climbing-girl Joshune Bereziatu signed out on the line.
Rosta said that he had worked on the route for 5 months until he succeed it on March, 14 2006.
Bimbaluna is 25 meters long and 35 moves. The first part of Bimbaluna is rather easy but then the boulder of nine moves starts (the last three ones are the hardest). The wall is vertical that means the holds are radically fine.

http://www.czechclimbing.com/

Source: http://www.czechclimbing.com/


Photo William Marler
(12.04.2006)
Date update: 13.04.2006
Everest's Supercouloir and Shivling (6543m) - spring cocktail from Alberto Inurrategi.

This spring Alberto Inurrategi plans to climb Everest's Supercouloir, but first he will try Shivling North face. His regular team-mate - Jon Beloki.

www.kairn.com

(11.04.2006)
Date update: 27.04.2006
Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006

01.04.2006

...here I am again in Kathmandu, with the usual rituals, the usual problems, the usual encounters made up of the usual questions. But in the end I always come back to Kathmandu with pleasure and it is always nice to immerse oneself in the ritual of starting the trekking, and the will to begin to sweat it out and dream of one's vertical projects. You all know my project this year, and I have talked about it on this website. I will be alone and even this is nothing new. As far as climbing permits are concerned I managed to organize them as usual and at base camp I will organize services with an expedition of Polish friends going up Everest.

Tomorrow I set off for the trek together with them and we will also climb Island Peak almost 6200mt. My idea is to spend a night on the summit of this mountain because I want to acclimatize in the best possible way. The final result of the ascent which I shall attempt will be a result of an optimum physical condition.The next report is due in two days time from Namche at 3700metres, the Sherpa village.
Ciao, Simone.

03.04.2006

Namche Bazar, the village of sherpas.and of alpinists. How many times have I already passed by here. The first time was in 1992 and now I think I have been here over 30 times... This village which can now be called a town, has changed a lot. There are no roads which you can drive along, you can only reach Namche on foot, but apart from that it has nothing missing. Even if you are at 3600 meters of altitude there is internet, a bakery, cake shops, a bank, shops and stalls, bed and breakfasts etc.

Today the Poles and I set off from Pakding, 2600 m and very comfortably arrived here, using our energy to make it last all day. To tell you the truth in the last hour and a half I tried to accelerate my pacejust to check out my engine, and everything is ok. Tomorrow we will stay here and we will reach Syangboche for a flying visit, where our luggage and equipment arrived via helicopter. We will take out just what we need for the next few days and in the evening come back down here to sleep. The weather has been good and has allowed us to take photos and films. Tomorrow we will do the same...
Ciao Simone

04.04.2006

Today is my second day at Namche Bazar. As usual I prefer to stay two nights here at 3600 meters to give my body the right period of time to acclimatise well without forcing things. In any case today I reached 3850 meters in Syangboche to check my baggage and eqipment which arrived with a cargo flight which also transported food and equipment for the village. I made the most of my walk to reach Thame and then return to Namche Bazar. The weather is quite good and I took photos and film even if I have been here more than 20 times. Tomorrow we will go to Deboche crossing Syangboche where the famous Buddhist monastery is located. In Deboche there is the best lodge of the valley the "Ama Dablam Garden Lodge" where I have spent a lot of time during my past expeditions and where I have nice memories. Also this year after having climbed till 8000 meters during my aclimatisation period I will go back to that lodge to get 4/5 days rest and than return to base camp and attempt the new route on Lhotse. Ciao

09.04.2006

Today beautiful weather and sunshine here in Chhukung. Yesterday we came here from Dingboche (I'm still trekking with the polish "Falvit expedition", who will attempt Everest) where we stood 2 days. During that period I walked up to the Dingboche Ri at 5000 meters to test my "motor". Yesterday when I arrived here at Chhukung at 4713 m, I climbed up to Chhukung Ri at 5600 meters in only...56 minutes... I feel very well and I hope to be in this condition for all the expedition... Every day I record all my physiological parameters by my polar watches and at the evening I download them on my PC for checking all.Today we will go to Island Peak base camp and tomorrow we will try the summit at 6180 meters. My idea is to remain on the summit with my tend and sleep there so I can give big stimulation to my acclimatisation process. In fact I would like to be immediately fast during the first part of my Lhotse climb. I don't like to spend 1 minute more in the danger icefall than necessary....
Ciao Simone

10.04.2006

GPSWPT Lat N027 Deg 055'012.352" Lon E 086 Deg 056'005.680" Alt 06131m 04:36:08Z 10.04.06
Here is the satellelite GPS from Simone arrived today by SMS in Italy. Simone is on the summti from Island Peak. Now he has there his tend and he will sleep this night there for acclimatisation.....
Tomorrow more details and pictures
Big Hello from Simone
via SMS

About expedition

All photos (number: 3)

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