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Corinne Theroux has got back from her ten-day trip across Iran where he taught Iranian women in rock-climbing. Corinne Theroux, rock-climbing champion of France, one of the lead world bouldering climbers, has got back from her ten-day tour in Iran where he taught about 15 Iranian women in rock-climbing.
There was not any difficulty in communication: Iranian women did not talk about policy and about the American interference in the affairs of their country, but took an active interest in climbing technique and climbing veiled when a man came into a gym. The girls told me that they would like to be trained or take part in competitions outside the country very much, now I wish to help them but it is impossible now to organize that." Source: www.20minutes.fr |
Bogomolov and Tortladze 27.04 For the last three days we did the matter of great consequence: pitched the camp at 6500m, hauled gear there. This day German and Japanese teams headed right there. Weather became to be more cheerful. Everything is proceeding according to plan. |
Be born to climb. World Cup BOULDERING 3RD ROUND runs in sunny Italy. Rovereto waits!
On May, 12-14 in Rovereto, Italy, World Cup 2006 BOULDERING 3RD ROUND will take place.
Check out on the Mountain.RU:
Source: www.planetmountain.com |
Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006
News from 24.04.2006 Today I planned to go to C2 and tomorrow to C3, but as I told I prefer to finish the antibiotic therapy here at base camp. The forecast for next days is also quite bad. Here at base camp the life is going as usual and there are always many things to do. The news we get from Kathmandu said that slowly the situation is returning toward the normal life. The democracy process started again and we hope that the King will not influence the decision of the people and the parliament. Also the Maoist has to be invited at the table to discuss their position and find a solution. Today my Polish friends with whom I'm sharing base camp services and Everest permit reached C2. They will remain there for 2 days and maybe after that period they will attempt to go C3. Today, for the first time I will show their faces and names. Simone News: 24.04, 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04 All photos (number: 4) |
Date update: 28.04.2006 Manasku. Bogomolov and Tortladze: have descended to BC. We are forced to give way...
We have descended to base camp. Denis and Sergey are there too after their summit.
Hopelessness! All the night it was snowing, zero visibility. We had been staying and waiting till 9.00 when it began to tighten from below.
April, 25, 2006
"Today we run the snow blockade in camp 1. Sergey Bogomolov |
Manaslu, Urubko, Samoilov: Summit! Yesterday the Kazakhstan climbers Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov summited Mt. Manaslu at 11:45 (local time). The guys spent the night at 7450m and today plan to descend to ÂÑ. Denis and Sergey became the first climbers managed to climb Manaslu during the period of "calm" since 2003. Source: www.mounteverest.net |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Simone Moro. Lhotse-2006 News from 24.04.2006
Hallo friends! Ciao Simone News: 21.04, 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04 All photos (number: 1) |
Rock Junior 2006 The European Youth Climbing Days 2006 - the fifth edition of the Rock Junior which will take place at Arco (Trentino - Lake Garda, Italy) on Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 June. This is the world's largest climbing festival dedicated to the young generation of climbers aged between 5 and 13 who, together with their families, want to discover the climbing game in complete safety, while at the same time discovering the splendid natural habitat of the small town located close to Lake Garda, in the Trentino region of Northern Italy.
Two fun-packed climbing days await the young climbers and their families at the large open-air Climbing Stadium which, for the occasion, transforms into a made-to-measure children's playground. Maximum safety is guaranteed by: Mountain Guides Friends of Arco, Mountaineering School Prealpi Trentine, the Mountain Rescue services (SAT and Guardia di Finanza), the Moena Police Alpine Training Force (Centro Addestramento Alpino della Polizia di Stato di Moena) and SAT Accompagnatori di Alpinismo Giovanile. The ARCO CLIMBING sports club will provide the technical support to the ROCK MASTER di ARCO ASSOCIATION for the event organisation. To participate simply register on http://www.rockjunior.info
Organisation:
Press Office
Vinicio Stefanello / tel. 049 8808423 /stefanello@planetmountain.com |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu
24.04 |
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo 24.04.2006 On April, 22 Valery and four drovers with a trail of 10 yaks crossed the Sha-Ula pass. The Liaison officer, booked off sick, remained in the settlement of Kharta. On April, 24 the expedition reached base camp located at 4750m. There is a lot of snow and it continues snowing. Weather improvement is expected in early May. Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God Source: http://babanov.com |
Date update: 25.04.2006 Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. 1st Speed World Cup. Results 24.04 SPEED Men: Five Russians at the first 5 places!
1. Sergey Sinitsyn (Russia, Ekaterinburg) SPEED Women:
1. Anna Saulevith (Russia, Ekaterinburg)
22.04 Olga Bibik reports from Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria: " Hurrah! I did it! I can't believe at all! Olga Shalagina (Ukraine)- the second, Anna Shtohr (Austria) - the third, Juliette Danion (France) - the fourth, Angela Eiter - the fifth and the sixth - Julia Abramchuk. We are dog tired and got scrapes.
Men:
Women: 22.04
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. Girls. Only masters are qualified for the final. |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006 21.04 Exausted we arrived to C1 where we found many other climbers blocked since 3 days due the same reason. They were all in line, fixed in the rope but waiting for someone who works in braking trail towards Base Camp, meeting the 20 sherpas coming from the bottom working braking trails and opening the ice fall. Why the most experienced, the guide, the strongest of the climbers of C1 were only waiting and not working????!!! There was also some of them that were only able to speak into the walkie talkie and give orders. Stupid! Go first and work an don't waste time to give stupid orders. In that case the only thing that is necessary is power in the legs and in the muscles and no strategies!!! So, even exausted I and the 2 sherpas continued to brake the trail and after 1 hours we meet the strong 20 sherpas coming from the bottom and we had been able to reach the base camp few hours later. No comments.... The bad news of the day is the daid of 3 sherpas during their climb to C2. A huge serac felt down right in the moment that the 3 sherpas was crossing that section..... They were here to work and now they will remain here forewer. No comment...no word...only reflections.... Some of the sherpas alive, that were close to the three, came in base camp and came also to me asking to telephone at home announcing the tragedy or the missing dead... Simone News: 15-19.04, 11.04, 1-10.04 All photos (number: 6) |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu
21.04 |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006
15.04
16.04
News from 18.04.2006
18.04.06
News from 19.04.2006
Barbara (Simone's wife): Hi, how is the situation today?
Barbara: How are you?
Barbara: There is somebody else there?
Barbara: Everybody is ok?
Ciao till tomorrow All photos (number: 2) |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu
20.04 |
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo
19.04.2006 Valery Babanov: A man is the very weak work of God Source: http://babanov.com |
11 years hence the first man's onsight... The First female 8b + onsight. Of course, Bereziartu :) (Some more details for those who has not thrown your rocky shoes yet after reading the news preview): Step by step the Basque girl Josune Bereziartu came nearer and nearer to this. And finally it happened on April 18 2006: "Hidrofobia", 8b +, onsight (!). 11 years back the Swiss guy Elie Chevieux made the first-ever onsight 8b (Massey Ferguson, Calanques, France, 1995) and in spite of the fact that for this time onsight frames have been expanded for one category nevertheless the list of climbing "elite" remains rather laconic.
The previous best female onsight "was limited" by simple 8b while flash was hardly more "expensive": 8b +. Source: www.planetmountain.com |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Sergey Bogomolov, Manaslu 19.04 It stopped snowing in the morning. The sky is clear. We dedicated this day to breaking trail up to camp I. But great boast, small roast. Snow is new and hard. Our perspective is dim. Let's see how matters stand. News: 17.04 |
ARWorld Series Events and Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007 In 2006
XPD.......................................................Feb 20 - 3 March ‘06 Qualifying Events for ARWORLD CHAMPIONSHIP 2007 (Wilderness ARC Scotland)
The Bull of Africa...............................May 30 - 10 June '06 Source: http://www.arworldseries.com/ARWorldSeries/EventInfo/concept.asp |
Date update: 21.04.2006 On the road to Everest! I am now together with skier Tormod Granheim and photographer Fredrik Schenholm in Nyalam in Tibet at about 3700 metres on the road to Everest. The ambition is to in about a month make a ski descent of the north face of Everest. Here is a short update from our first week, and you can also follow our progress on: http://www.everytrail.net/everest2006/ We started off in Chamonix where we spent the winter season skiing and preparing the expedition. We drove down to Milano the 29:th of March and took a long flight to Kathmandu in Nepal. We had two busy days in Kathmandu where we in cooperation with Arun treks & expedition organized a lot of practical issues like visas, for Nepal and Tibet, and bought food for our two month long expedition. The only problem we had was that our cargo from Bergans with tents, sleeping bags and so on got stuck in Bangkok... It will hopefully be sent up to Tibet a couple of days after us though. We met Tschering Palde Bute and Lambabu Sherpa that will be our film and support crew, two very nice guys with a lot of Himalaya and film experience. We then went by jeep up to the Tibetan border. The Nepalese countryside is incredibly beautiful but it's sad to see all the military activity due to the conflicts between the Nepalese king and the Maoist rebells. Troops, guard towers and even some tanks along the curly mountain road. We had no problems whatsoever though and reached the border with the Friendship Bridge after fore hours. Getting through the Chinese customs was as always a bit of a hassle but we were happy not having to pay a single yuan and spent the night in the stinking border town Zwangmu at about 2300 metres. The next day, Sunday, we drove on bumpy roads up to the Tibetan high plateau. Quite a lot of snow along the road and we on one occasion passed through a dug out snow corridor with about five metres high snow walls! The jeep a couple of hours later arrived in the little mountain town Nyalam at 3700 metres where we now have spent two days doing acclimatization hikes and a bit of bouldering. We will tomorrow head up to Tingri at about 4300 metres.
All the best! |
The review of news from Nepal: Korshunov & Co are already in BC. The information about the Byelorussians, Czechs, Kazakhs...
On Saturday April, 15, Korshunov's team in full complement, the team of First Belarus Everest Expedition and also the Czech team of Cho Oyu Expedition took off from Katmandu to Kodari used the helicopter. Today on April 17 at 7.30 am Maksut Zhumaev and Vasily Pivtsov flew off a charter to Jomsom for further trekking to Dhaulagiri base camp. |
Valery Babanov, Chomo-Lonzo 14.04.2006
Valery calls from Katmandu: All photos (number: 2) Source: http://babanov.com |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Sergey Bogomolov: "We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather." Greetings! We have descended to BC. The route up to Ñ1 is normal, it's a pity only that every day it becomes to be covered with snow. We are in pugnacious spirits and waiting for good weather. Every of us are going to go upward. Sergey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze: "Tomorrow we will set off for the route reco... Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero."
We are in camp after had fixed 100 m of the rope. We were short of 50 meters more to get up to the top. The slope is very avalanche-hazardous. Tomorrow we will set off for route reco and then return to Camp 1. Now it's a strong blizzard, visibility is zero. We congratulate all of you on Astronautics day! |
Fred Rouhling and Kill Bill, 8a, and Moon safari, 8a, and Imkansiz 8a, Héphaïstos 7c, ombre lunaire 7c. Source: www.fredrouhling.com, www.kairn.com |
Date update: 27.04.2006 Simone Moro.Lhotse-2006
11.04
Ciao News: 1-10.04 |
Who and where :) News from Katmandu. The Byelorussians are going to Everest, the Czechs - Cho Oyu, the Kazakhs - Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, the Russians - Everest.
Igor Kulishov reports from Katmandu: "We moved to a new office and changed the address of our web- site. In other respects - practically no changes. Royal Mountain Travel Katmandu, Nepal |
Totmyanin, Korshunov and Bolotov. Everest On the way toward Everest Nikolay Totmyanin: "And again, exactly as in last year, I hopped the steaming out train. I pick up the slack instead of a participant ped out. The aim of a three-man team is Everest via classical route from the North. We start on April, 12".
Yesterday in Moscow a press conference concerning team's leaving to Nepal was held. |
Date update: 13.04.2006 Rosta Stefanek on the "female" Bereziatu's Bimbaluna 9a/a +.
Rosta Stefanek announced his sending "the female nine" Bimbaluna, 9a/a +, in Saint Loup, Swiss area. http://www.czechclimbing.com/ Source: http://www.czechclimbing.com/ |
Date update: 13.04.2006 Everest's Supercouloir and Shivling (6543m) - spring cocktail from Alberto Inurrategi. This spring Alberto Inurrategi plans to climb Everest's Supercouloir, but first he will try Shivling North face. His regular team-mate - Jon Beloki. www.kairn.com |
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