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(28.03.2008)
David Graham repeats Kheops ss, 8C

David Graham is currently in Font and he just made the first repeat of Antoine Vandeputte's Kheops sitstart (8C). We haven't heard of any comment from him concerning the grade.

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Source: www.8a.nu

(28.03.2008)
Daniel Woods' Confessions

Yesterday Daniel Woods had his fancy sticky heels on, hiked up the hill to Cresciano and made the 4th ascent of Dave Graham's 'Confessions', 8B+. Nicely done!

Switzerland native Martin Keller also made an ascent of 'Confessions', and from what we gather (his comments are hard to read) his ascent was just before Daniel's which means he got the third known ascent of this problem.

Source: www.8a.nu

(28.03.2008)
Dima Rock Master 2008

Since Dima Rock Master was born in 2005, the main goal of the event that brings together the top specialists around the world is broadcasting this sport

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Tommy Caldwell on Flex Luthor
Photo: Tim Kemple
(28.03.2008)
Hard, Unrepeated American Routes

List of potential V14 and harder boulder problems in North America, list of confirmed V14 and up problems USA.

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Source: climbingnarc.com

(27.03.2008)
Natalia Gross: Succeeded in Histerija 8c+! :)

And I did it! I sent Histerija 8c+ today and reached the new milestone in my climbing career!

It first tried Histerija at the end of november last year when I had to choose a route in a central part of Misja pec for our documentary movie that we are making. However the climbing season ended so I only returned to the route in the beginning of March.

Not everything went according to plans because each time I tried it I was tired from the intense indoor training. But on the day when I finally succeeded I was climbing after two days rest and the moves seemed much easier. I did it on the second try that day.
When I finally cliped the anchor I was so happy that a loud scream of joy came out from the bottom of my lungs!

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(27.03.2008)
56-year-old onsights 7c+

Beppe Catellini on-sighted "la spada di Damocles, 7C+" , two weeks ago, which is a huge performance because Bepe is 56 years old!

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Source: www.8a.nu

(27.03.2008)
Huge Canadian Faces Fall in Winter Conditions

Two major Canadian Rockies walls have had significant ascents in winter conditions: one by a first winter ascent, and the other by a new route. Mr. Everywhere, Raphael Slawinski, was on the scene on both climbs.

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Source: www.climbing.com

(27.03.2008)
Ice Climbers Clean Up in Remote Rockies

An all-star international team has reaped a rich bounty of new ice and mixed climbs in the Canadian Rockies during a nine-day trip to the remote Icefall Brook area. Audrey Gariepy, Caroline George, Jen Olson, Ines Papert, and Jon Walsh bagged 10 probable new routes in a nine-day trip, ranging from 60 to 600 meters, and from WI5 to M12.

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Source: www.climbing.com

(27.03.2008)
Nepal elections special

January 2007 Nepal was led by an interim legislature. The members were:

Socialist - Nepali Congress
Communists - UML Communist Party of Nepal (Unified Marxist-Leninist) Communists - Nepal Workers and Peasants Party Ethnic Democrats - Nepal Goodwill Party (Anandi Devi) Communists - ULF United Left Front Communists - People's Front Communists - CPN (M) Maoists

The government thus consisted of 5 communist parties, one socialist and one small party (3%).

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(27.03.2008)
Karakoram sneak preview: Preliminary list of 2008 expeditions in Pakistan!

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Source: www.k2climb.net

(26.03.2008)
Red Rock Rendezvous 2008 March 28-30

Join us for the fifth annual Red Rock Rendezvous, March 28-30, 2008. If you've never been, come see what all the buzz is about!

Enjoy a weekend of climbing, food and fun with people from all corners of the country. Learn and climb at clinics taught by some of the world's best climbers. We've got something for every climber, from the beginner to seasoned vets.

Never climbed before? Our Intro to Climbing program will accommodate even more students next year and we've got festival packages available that include all the gear you'll need.

If you've been to the Red Rock Rendezvous before, come on out again - it just keeps getting better every year. Stay tuned for updates - we're constantly making improvements and we're adding some new events for 2008!

Source: www.mountaingear.com

(26.03.2008)
Wazabi V13 bouldering in El Chalten, Patagonia

On 15 February Thiago Veloso from Brazil repeated one of the hardest problems in Latin America, Wazabi V13 close to El Chalten, Patagonia.

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Source: www.planetmountain.com

(26.03.2008)
Charlotte Durif (17) onsights 8b+ again

Charlotte Durif as onsighted Leon, 8b+ in Les concluses.

Source: www.8a.nu

(26.03.2008)
9a by Ramonet

Ramon Julian Puigblanque has done El templo del cafe, 9a in Alquezar and as he did it in only three tries he says - 'Soft'.

Source: www.8a.nu

(26.03.2008)
Dhaulaghiri West Face. Babanov&Totmyanin came down to BC

On March, 24 Valery Babanov and Nikolay Totmyanin returned to BC after first acclimatization ascent. They went up to 5000m.

Yesterday they had a rest day

(24.03.2008)
French Bouldering Team for Hall

FFME published list of French strongest boulderingists who will bi fighting in Hall

(Photo LTR )

Staff
MATTHIEU DUTRAY LE COACH
PATRICK VAN ACKERE LE KINE

Climbers

GUILLAUME GLAIRON MONDET
NICOLAS BADIA
SEBASTIEN JALMAIN
JEROME MEYER
STEPHANE JULIEN
GEROME POUVREAU
REMY SAMYN
JULIEN MERAL
LUDOVIC LAURENCE
PIERRE DUROCHE
JULIETTE DANION
LUDIVINE HARMAND
MELANIE SON
ANNE LAURE CHEVRIER
MENANIE SANDOZ
CECILE AVEZOU
SANDRINE LEVET

Source: www.ffme.fr

(24.03.2008)
Announcement of 2008 Judges Ñourses: August 2008 Sydney Australia

After a successful trial in 2007 holding the officials courses the week prior to the YWCH, we are trying again in 2008, putting the Judges and Routesetters Courses the week before the YWCH in Sydney Australia. The courses will begin the 23rd (Routesetters) and 24th (Judges) and will have a few days of theory followed by practicals during the comp.

Read more IFSC

(24.03.2008)
Dhaulaghiri West Face. Babanov-Totmyanin are in BC

Valery Babanovand Nikolay Totmyanin arrived at Base camp, 3650m, on 22.03.
The West face looks very impressive!
They are about to start acclimatization ascent on 23.03.
The weather is good but typical for this very season: it's snowing every afternoon

(24.03.2008)
Patxi Usobiaga's seventh 9a

Patxi Usobiaga has done his seventh 9a and harder the last four months, Fabela pa la enmienda in Santa Linya.

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(24.03.2008)
Pizem Completes Massive 5.13+ Roof Crack

Rob Pizem has done the first ascent of a long horizontal crack near Moab, Utah, that he is giving 5.13d, making it one of the hardest roof cracks in America. Army of Darkness crosses a cave ceiling by a crack approximately 45 feet long that requires a full arsenal of techniques: fingers, hands, and offwidth.

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(21.03.2008)
9a by Said Belhaj

Said Belhaj (SWE) has done his first 9a, El templo del cafe in Alquezar (ESP).

Source: www.8a.nu

(20.03.2008)
Meisules de la Biesces, Dolomites: Riegler brothers free Vint ani do

On 2/03 Florian and Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of "Vint ani do" (8a+ 350m), Meisules de la Biesces (2457m - Sella, Dolomites).

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(20.03.2008)
Wild Ben Nevis Route Completed

After making news earlier this month for his free solo of a possible 5.14b in Spain, all-star all-arounder Dave MacLeod returned to his home in Scotland, where he finished off one of the hardest winter routes in the United Kingdom Don't Die of Ignorance (275m, XI,11)

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(20.03.2008)
8c flash by Marin

Edu Marin, now at #4 in the rankings, has flashed The Mummy, 8c, at Rodellar, Spain. As far as we know, this was the first flash of this route.

Source: www.8a.nu

(20.03.2008)
Nalle Hukkataival repeats Grahams Confessions

Heikki Toivanen reports that Nalle Hukkataival has done the first repeat of Confessions, an 8B+ opened by Graham at Cresciano.

Source: www.8a.nu

(19.03.2008)
Rules 2008-09

INTERNATIONAL CLIMBING COMPETITIONS

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(18.03.2008)
MacLeod Solos 5.14b in Spain

The bold Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has soloed a 5.14b sport climb in Spain.

Video

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(14.03.2008)
Eiger Team Record Bested Again

Less than a month after Simon Anthamatten and Roger Schali broke the team (seilschaft) record on the Eiger Nordwand (see the February 5, 2008 NewsWire), Daniel Arnold and Stephen Ruoss of Switzerland have done it again. Besting Anthamatten and Schali by forty minutes, their ascent from the bottom of the Heckmair Route (ED2, 1800m, 1938) to the top of the Eiger (3970m) took 6 hours, 10 minutes.

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Source: www.alpinist.com

(13.03.2008)

56 th TrentoFilmfestival

TRENTO . The 56th TrentoFilmfestival will begin on the 22nd of April under the artistic direction of Maurizio Nichetti and until the 4 th of May will present a large ion of fiction and documentary films.

The program promises a wide choice of narrative and documentary auteur films presenting exciting stories of man`s association with nature, mountains and adventure. The TrentoFilmfestival will screen for the first time in Italy"The Beckoning Silence", in which Joe Simpson confronts the menacing North Face of the Eiger in a gripping story of alpinism. The film is a pretext to reflect on the inner truth of climbing and its risks. Louise Osmond`s direction, far from the heroic tones of "Touching the Void", has a riveting pace and high quality images. Presented almost at the same time in the UK and USA in November 2007, the film has already received the Best Mountaineering Film award in the Kendal Mountain Film Festival and a special mention by the jury of the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The film "Au delà des Cimes", a poetic and sensitive portrait of Catherine Destivelle, in the repetition of three great classic climbs on Mont Blanc, is a must for passionate climbers.

As usual in recent years, the 56th film festival will open with a rare silent film. The Marlene Kuntz, an Italian cult rock band, with the participation of Gianni Maroccolo and Ivana Gatti, will provide a music score for Paul Czinner`s masterpiece "Miss Else", based on a novel written by Arthur Schnitzler . With live music the Marlene Kuntz will accompany this visionary and thrilling film, which perfectly fits the melodic and turbulent research their music represents.

A program, therefore, that ranges from subjects and events intimately linked with the mountains and mountaineering to environmental, social and historical ones, and includes, as always, MontagnaLibri, the most important international exhibition of mountain publications.

There will also be daily meetings with important guests (Joe Simpson, Pierre Mazeaud) and mountaineering evenings, in which two opposite ways of climbing the mountains will be compared by great solo climbers ( Pietro Dal Prà, Silvia Vidal, Hansjörg Auer ) and the Russian mountaineering team latest exploits: with Alexander Odintsov, Serguey Nilov, Denis Savelyev, Michail Deny, Alex Klenov, Pavel Sahabalin.

The calendar of fringe events includes again this year the World Cup of Speed Climbing in Piazza Duomo in Trento (the 27th of april). And then exhibitions, concerts, theme conferences, meetings with authors and film directors will enrich a programme offering a full and varied cultural proposal carefully prepared by the organisers of the oldest international festival of films featuring mountains, exploration and adventure.

22/04 &ndash 4/05/2008
www.trentofestival.it
TRENTOFILMFESTIVAL
Via S.Croce, 67
Centro Santa Chiara
C.P. 402 - Trento Centro
I-38100 Trento
Tel +39 0461 986120
Fax +39 0461 237832
mail@trentofestival.it
Press office
Artlink
Chiara Veronesi
M +39349 6031544
chiara.veronesi@trentofestival.it
Barbara Gambino
M +39 346 5001654
pressoffice@artlink.it
Trento
Marco Benedetti
T +39 0461 986120
marco.benedetti@trentofestival.it

(13.03.2008)
Award in memory of Sir Ed

The Board of the Himalayan Environment Trust has decided to institute an award in Sir Edmund Hillary's memory. The annual award will be given to an organisation or an individual for outstanding lifetime contribution to the cause of the Himalayan Environment.

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