Mountain.RU

newsclimbski & snowboardadventurephotossearch

russian

Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
(20.10.2005)
Ural Àìà-Dablam Expedition

The team led by Kirievsky (11 climbers) summited Ama Dablam on October, 17. Marnykh, Zubtsov and Belevsky did not reach the summit.

On October, 21 the team is going to arrive to Katmandu.


Dai Koyamada on Action Direct, 9a
Ph: frankenjura.com
(18.10.2005)
Dai Koyamada repeats Action Direct, 9a just a couple of days after Rich Simpson

Dai did the 7th ascent on the 15/10/2005!

The route had 7 ascents from 1991, and now 2 in one week!
- Wolfgang Gullich (1991)
- Alexander Adler (1995)
- Iker Pou (2000)
- Dave Graham (2001)
- Christian Bindhammer (2003)
- Richard Simpson (13/10/2005)
- Dai Koyamada (15/10/2005)

Source: www.FreakClimbing.com

(17.10.2005)
Evgeny Krivosheitsev, Ukraine, informs:
About Crimea. Good news to improve your self-rating. In the Swede's opinion it is black cruelty instead of grades!

The latest news from the Crimea: "On Wednesday we climbed in Red Stone. Our Swedish friends couldn't on-sight harder 7b. All our grades they consider underestimated, at least on (+) (but in fact they have not been in Moscow climbing gyms :).

The Swedes estimated Vremya Tch as 8à +, Cascade - 7b, Catapulta - 7c +, Telekines - 7b +/7c, King Kong - 7ñ!

At that one of them has one 8b and a lot of on-sighted 8à in his active. And the other guy climbed more than 140 (!) different eight-graded lines. One of 8b he sent using chocks. Well, they are experienced enough".

Jack Krivosheitsev. 8ñ + : one for the road.

On October, 14 After hard working for a week Evgeny Krivosheitsev sent the most complex (in comparison with already climbed lines) route " Banzai! ", 8ñ+.

(14.10.2005)
Richard Simpson repeats Action Direct!!

Finally Richard Simpson got it!!
reports that Rich Simpson (Moon's top sponsored climber) did the 6th ascent (5th repeat, 1st British ascent) of Action Directe the infamous Wolfgang Gullich (Wolfgang did the first ascent in 1991!!) route in the German Frankenjura. Touted as the worlds 1st 9a.

Rich just texted Ben Moon the following:
"Just did it everything was perfect. im so happy it's like a drug for the next few hours i will be gone totally out of here. it's no longer a dream. thanks" Rich Simpson on Infinity 8c+ - Frankenjura Rich obviously has a strong sense of climbing tradition and has been working his way through all the classic sport routes of the 80's and 90's ticking a long the way routes such as La Rose et la Vampire 8b, Le Minimum 8b+, Agincourt 8c, Wall Street 8c, Liquid Amber 8c, Hubble 8c+ and now Action Direct.

Source: FreakClimbing.com and Moonclimbing.com

(14.10.2005)
Death of French famous alpinist Lucien Berardini

The french alpinist Lucien Berardini died last night.
He started opening boulders in Fontainebleau and it leads him to the highest summits of Himalaya like Makalu Between many other first ascents he did the first ascent of Aconcagua South Face, West of Les Drus With Robert Paragot they made a 20 years team whiñh performed at the higher level in the 50's and 60's.

(13.10.2005)
New 8c by Rhouling

New 8c by Fred Rouhling in Haute Savoie
Fred Rouhling just redpointed a new 8c in Allonzier la caille, Haute-Savoie, France, close to where Fred live "La voie du charpentier" is a 18m route with 5 bolts.

Source: http://www.kairn.com

(12.10.2005)
Crimean news: Swedes in Nikita and Red Stone. New 8ñ of Jack Krivosheitsev. "Dvoinoy pryzhok (Double jump)", 8ñ, done by Andrey Vedenmeer.

Yesterday, on October, 11, Evgeny Krivosheitsev sent his new 8ñ "Diagonal" in Nikita (Crimea).
Andrey Vedenmeer put up "Dvoinoy pryzhok (Double jump)", 8ñ.

The Swedes (Note: "Swedes" - iron guys from 8a.nu team) have been already climbing. And they consider Russian grade as hard categories...

(11.10.2005)
Ural Àìà-Dablam Expedition

On October, 11 the team descended to BC and then to Pangboche to have a rest. C1 is established at 5800 m. On October 13 they will leave to set C2 at 6200 m and further to make a summit push as planned. All of the guys are of good health state.

Source: Royal Mount Travel

(10.10.2005)
Dhaulagiri. Angarsk expedition. Summit!

On October, 6 at 2.10 on Nepalese time Alexey Bolotov, Evgeny Vinogradsky, Sergey Petrov, Oleg Naumov, Sergey Kirillov summited Dhaulagiri (8148 m).
After successful descent all the climbers are in BC and safe and sound.

(10.10.2005)
Having worked for two days on the route on October, 8 Evgeny Krivosheitsev finally sent "Sloyzy Krokodila (Crocodile Tears)", 8ñ/+ in Uarch Kaya.

BC
(10.10.2005)
Ural Àìà-Dablam Expedition. C1 is established

A group led by Kirievsky acclimatized in BC for a day and right then left to 5100m to set high-altitude C1. All the team is planned to start in full force.

All photos (number: 2)

Source: Royal Mount Travel

(10.10.2005)
Devoted to Harvard Mountaineering Club 80th Anniversary. The team of the Harvard climbers pushed into unexplored valleys and made first ascents of unnamed and unclimbed mountains in the Borkoldoy Range

Mountain.Ru would like to send our compliments on the occasion of successful completion Harvard Mountaineering Club Borkoldoy Expedition 2005-the first American expedition to the region.

Our congratulations to the team of the Harvard climbers pushed into unexplored valleys and made first ascents of unnamed and unclimbed mountains in the Borkoldoy Range.

See the details and photo-report later on Mountain.Ru.

All photos (number: 1)

(7.10.2005)
Things are up and running! Evgeny Krivosheitsev. "Pikador", 8b +, second go.

Whether the solar eclipse or promised Crimean diet affected, but the result declares itself: one more good news from the Crimea: yesterday Evgeny Krivosheitsev sent a new route in Nikita - "Pikador", 8b +, - second go.

(6.10.2005)
Parallel World of Katya Yaermud. 8b +! Gumanoid, 8b+! Made by Jack Krivosheitsev.

Today, on October, 6, Katya Yaermud (Trial - Sport Climbing Team) sent "Parallellny Mir (Parallel World)", 8b +. It is a quick break! She'll find it easier as she goes along :) Evgeny Krivosheitsev climbed a new connection "Traverse" linking Kadavr and Chertopolokh (Thistle) in Red Stone.
Evgeny and Andrey Vedenmeer sent Humanoid ", 8b + second go. Jack was close to climb "Slyozy Krokodila (Tears of Crocodile)", 8ñ / +, second go in Uarch Kaya but fell right under its finish.

(5.10.2005)
Ural-Àìà Dablam Expedition

Gennady Kirievsky informs: Ural-Àìà Dablam Expedition took off from Katmandu on October, 1 as planned.

On October, 4 at 4.30 am on Nepalese time we came to BC. And today we will set a camp after arriving of the caravan of yaks with our luggage. All the Expedition participants send their love to relatives and friends!

Source: Royal Mount Travel


OLEKSY Tomasz
(3.10.2005)
UIAA Worldcup 2005. Bouldering final stage, Firminy (France). First wins of Danion and Oleksy.

Last weekend the results of short bouldering season were resumed in Firminy. Unexpectedly the surnames of outsiders get the first places.
What is it? - A change of leaders or weariness by the end of the season?

Results

Women
1 DANION Juliette - FRA
2 LEVET Sandrine - FRA
3 STOHR Anna - AUT
4 CHERESHNEVA Yana - RUS
5 ABRAMCHOUK Yulia - RUS
6 ABGRALL Emilie - FRA
7 BIBIK Olga - RUS
8 JANUEL Caroline - FRA
9 AGUIRRE Leire - ESP
10 SON Melanie - FRA
11 BACHER Barbara - AUT
12 MARTIN Delphine - FRA

Men
1 OLEKSY Tomasz - POL
2 DULAC Daniel - FRA
3 FISCHHUBER Kilian - AUT
4 HUKKATAIVAL Nalle - FIN
5 GAIDIOZ Loic - FRA
6 BADIA Nicolas - FRA
7 LAURENCE Ludovic - FRA
8 EARL Andrew - GBR
9 CALEYRON Thomas - FRA
10 POUVREAU Jerome - FRA
11 SAMYN Remi - FRA
12 PARRY Gareth - GBR

© 1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: info@mountain.ru
Ðåéòèíã@Mail.ru Rambler's Top100