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(29.09.2003)
Nuptse South Face

Valery Babanov informs from Nuptse Base Camp:
"It is the 28th of September and the day of Puja ñeremony in Base Camp, we have a rest. The weather has a little improved: less atmospheric precipitates and it's getting warm.
Having worked two more days, on September, 26 and 27, we have reached the altitude of 6000 meters. The route is covered with snow blanket, the biggest difficulty now is the snow edges going upwards. The majority of the gear left last spring burried, the ropes were torn up by the summer monsoons and we have to fix them up again.
After resting, on Monday, September, 29, we are planning to try to get to our Camp at 6200m in the next two or three days (if the fabled weather window occurs), hoping that the lines that we had fixed last spring on the Diamond Tower is still useful.
The Americans went for an acclimatization climb on the British route, their final plans are unknown.
Greetings to all native and to all our friends.
Valery and Yury,
28.09.2003. "

(27.09.2003)
Jannu North Face
Igor Kulishov informs:
I've got a radio message from Gunza, expedition leader has had a hand fracture. Evidently they speak about Odintsov but the locals could be mistaken. We don't know any details besides that he doesn't need to be evacuated. Doctor Bakin has all wherewithal for wound repair. As soon as we get some news we'll inform you immediately.

(25.09.2003)
Nuptse South Face
Hello everyone,
It's our fourth day at Nuptse South Face. We are all ok, safe and sound. Today we are having a rest. September 22 and 23 we worked on the lower section of the route, having reached 5700m. The weather is still bad: it is raining and snowing everyday and it is pretty cold yet. But we are going on with our work. We want to reach the maximum level before the weather gets better.
We are here together with an American expedition: Fabriccio and Billy are very nice guys to talk to. We have different kitchen tents and cooks as well as mountaineering plans: today Americans climbed for acclimatization Bonington's route, and we are having a rest. Tomorrow we are planning to go on with working on the route and return to BC in the evening. We are not going to spend a night on the route until we reach 5900m and the weather gets better.
We have an official opening of our camp on September 28, on the first day of the crescent moon as Pangboche lama recommended. In Pangboche we got blessing for our climb.
Best regards to everyone who follows our progress, who remembers us and cares for us.
Valera, Yura,
Nuptse South Face, BC,
24.09.2003.

(24.09.2003)
Jannu North Face
Igor Kulishov informs:
"Today, on Wednesday, 24, at 12h00 local time, the expedition doctor Mikhail Bakin reported via radio that during two days the weather condition left much to be desire but the guys continued moving forward. They decided also to send the satellite telephone to test and to repair to Katmandu. I hope that in 7-10 days I'll leave for BC with a good nonfailed phone. Ivan Samojlenko - the cameraman - is going to come down from BC in 2-3 days."
You may send the message Jannu-team via info@mountain.ru

(23.09.2003)
Lenin Peak - 75 years
The ascent season on Lenin Peak (7134 m) has been finished.
Even preliminary analysis shows the intensive growing interest to the region v not less than 500 mountaineers have made an attempt to climb the peak. There have not been so many mountaineers since the time of Soviet Union. It was a great comfort that the most representative teams were from CIS countries, Check Republic, Bulgaria, Slovakia, Korea, Japan, Austria, and Germany etc.
"Asia Travel" company (Tashkent), "Asia Mountains" (Bishkek) and "Irkeshtam Tour" (Osh) have carried out the joint project "Lenin-2003", dedicated to 75 year jubilee of the first ascent to the top , having set traditionally the Base Camp on Lukovaya glade. For the first time a wayside yurt camp "Taldyk" (on 142-nd km of Pamir Highway) has started its work within the framework of the project. Nice impressions were from Camp1 (4200) that was equipped with the yurt with a stove.
Due to the comfortable service, excellent meal, steady transport work, medical treatment and trouble-free operation this project was successful and the camp was most visited by mountaineers. In general 210 tourists and mountaineers were served at the base camp. 57 of them have reached the top, a Japan woman Mrs. Kazumi of 67 years is among them. Except the abovementioned camp there were 2 more international alpine camp working near Lenin Peak, but we do not have the statistical data yet.
See you in 2004!

(22.09.2003)
Nuptse South Face
Dispatches:
22.09.2003
The climbers reached Nuptse Base Camp. In the neighborhood there is an American crew. The Americans and Valery talk over the possible variants to climb. Our group is in good spirit. It's bad raining - the dying monsoon
18.09.2003
- Are there Maoists?
- Today we were delayed at Namcha because of our luggage. None of Maoists here. There are a lot of Russian tourists.
17.09.2003
Yury Koshelenko informs: We are at Namcha. Everything is going according to our plan. It's raining on the other hand - none of any dust. Tommorow we'll leave for Deboche.

 

(22.09.2003)
Jannu North Face
Igor Kuleshov informs:
Monday,15h00 local time. Mikhail Bakin reports via radio that everything goes right way. Totmjanin and Pershin are planning to climb tommorow, the rest are on the mountain. They've established Camp II at 6000m and going to push the route forward. Odintsov and Ruchkin will descend to Base Camp tommorow.

(22.09.2003)
Youth Worldchampionship. Veliko Tarnovo (BUL).
Results: Difficulty. Speed.

(22.09.2003)
This is the overall review for several years: the top climbers in Russia.
Girls who have ever sent 8a-route and harder:
Julia Abramchuk, 8b (S.Petersburg)
Ekaterina Yaermund, 8b (S.Petersburg)
Olga Bibik (Krasnoyarsk)
Elena Shumilova (S.Petersburg)
Elena Ovchinnikova (RUS-USA)
Guys who have ever climbed 8b-route and upper:
Jack Ovchinnikov (Krasnoyarsk)
Salavat Rakhmetov (Ufa)
Pavel Samojlin (Ekaterinburg)
Alexey Chertov (Kaliningrad)
Sergej Shemulin'kin (S.Petersburg)
Sergej Terentjev (Krasnoyarsk)
Alexey Tselischev (S.Petersburg)
Mickail Umnitsyn (S.Petersburg)
Alexander Semenov (Moscow)
Konstantin Savel'ev (S.Petersburg)

(20.09.2003)
News from Ararat Expedition of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Luida Korobeshko.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"13, September.
The day was lucky for us in spite of the date 13. The team saw the fragments of the Noah's Ark first-hand. The myth became reality. (If you want to see the unique shooting of the ascension and the fragments of the Noah's Ark, we will be waiting for you on the second of October at 19.00 in the club-cafe Alpindustria.) There are the fragments of the Noah's Ark on the mountainsides not far from the Ararat at about 20 miles. The American Scientists analyzed the fragments of the Noah's Ark and it was found out the fragments are at about 8000 years old, this age corresponds with the ancient legend. The size of the ancient ship is 120m x 40m. Not far from the fragments of the Noah's Ark we researched the second largest crater in the world, which was made from the fallen meteorite.
The part of our team is arriving home tomorrow, but our adventures will not be finished because the second part of the team is going to raft all along the river, the route is rather complicated, and climb up the mountain Olympus. The perpetual and nature fire is alight at the summit of the mountain Olympus. Follow our news!"
Mountain.RU commentary:
Olympos (2630 m) is more known on modern maps as Takhtaly-dag mountain and is one of the highest summits in Toros range on mideterranian Turkey, about 60 km south from Antalya. The mountain is generally trekking point, but relatively difficult 1000-meter East face remain unclimbed (there is no record about any climbs there). Climb from interesting East side (facing the sea) is difficult due to long approach through the forest. Other sides of the mountain are easier. Natural gas flames are not on the mountain, but approx 10 miles to South-East, near the sea shore, on altitude 100-200 m.

(19.09.2003)
The fresh news from the Crimea
We returned from the Crimea on 8th of September and have some information about successful ascents. Konstantin Savelyev sent: Chertopolokh (Thistle), 8b and some new and old routes of 8a- category,
Julia Abramchuk sent: Vremya Ch (Time Ch), 8a - it was her first 8a-route.
Sergey Terentyev: Parallelnyi Mir (Parallel World), 8b+ - 12.09.03. It's the first Russian 8b+ route in the Crimea.
Katya Yaermurd: Chertopolokh (Thistle), 8b. It's the first Russian 8b-route in the Crimea made by girl. Mandrazh, 8a+.

(19.09.2003)
Jannu North Face
Igor Kulishov informes:

"Today, in spite of the general strike I succeded to check up the subscriber's account and support - everything is OK. It seems there is a problem in the telephone receiver.
Misha will leave for Bishkek today (via Deli). He has hip-bone contusion and two ribs fracture (on the left side). I'm going to be back to Base Camp but it depends on the situation with the telephone connection.
On Sunday, just after the strike completion, I will try to get local radio contact with Gunza and ask somebody there to go up to BC and thus to keep in touch with the members of the expedition, maybe some of them (most likely the cook or kitchen boy) will low down to Gunza with the dispatches. "

(18.09.2003)
The 3rd stage of the Bouldering Moscow Cup
Dmitry Bychkov wins the 3-rd stage of the Boudering Moscow Cup ahead of Valery Vorobjov and Michail Pekarev. In the women's event Ekaterina Zajtseva beat Alexandra Balakireva and Ludmila Badaljan, second and third respectively

Dmitry Bychkov
Michail Pekarev
Michail Pekarev

 

(18.09.2003)
Jannu North Face
Igor Kuleshov informed from Katmandu:

"We've got information that the guys have some problems with the telephone communication. Tommorow it will be three days general strike in Katmandu. Misha Mihajlov will leave for Bishkek by air liner on Friday, September, 19. He is OK".

(16.09.2003)
Crimea. Red Stone Rock.
There are 75 routes on Red Stone Rock now. And as it seems many new routes are going to be done. The main news: Sergey Terentyev (Krasnoyarsk) flashed two 8-graded routes: Tsunami and Flatter. He is the first Russian climber who could do it at first.

(16.09.2003)
Expedition on the South face of the Mt.Nuptse is begining
Hi everybody why has an interest to us and our expedition on the South face of the Mt.Nuptse, Our expedition is begining !!!!!
So, now we are in Kathmandu. We are OK! But we are a little bit tired.
Today, it was so long day and night. We leaved from Moskow yesterday at 18:50 PM and we arrived in Kathmandu just today morning at 08:00 AM. So, it was about 14 hours without stopping and with change a plain in Dhaka.
And also we had fly about one hour around Kathmandu with no possibility to make landing. The pilotes say us because it was bad weather in the airport area. Today was a Sunday... so it was not possible to make a lot of things. Tomorrow will be a very busy day... in the morning we are going to buy a foods and some equipment. In the afternoon we will go to the Ministry of the Tourism to get a permit ascent brieffing. We will fly to Lukca on the Tuesday, 16 in the morning. In this evening we met with Fabrizio and his partner named Billy. They are americans. Bouth guys are so nice.
Ours Base Camps will be stay in the same place on 5200 meters and we will be able to associate there without problems. We will be felling not so lonely. But anyway we will be climb a differents routes. They are not desided yet which route the will be climb. Maybe a newone. The have a good high altitude experience. They leave Kathmandy tommorow to Lucla and then we will meet in Dingboche or in Base Campe Nuptse. Also today we had meeting with miss Elizabeth Hawley.
Why climb in the Himalayas...they know this name.
She wishes us good luck and successful. Continue tommorow...
Valeri Babanov, Yuri Koshelenko.

(15.09.2003)
Jannu-2003. Ice fall accident
On Friday, 12 an accident occurs with the youngest team-member Michail Mihailov. He was involved in serious ice fall accident while he was trying climbing up the ice part at 5100m. He has injured badly and the situation became complicated with his nontransportability from that altitude. The team-mates watched by his bedside by turn and yesterday, on Sunday, 15, the helicopter picked Misha up from the wall and he was evacueted to Katmandu's hopital. The rest is OK.
The climbing will go on via another way proposed by Pershin, Davy and Bolotov, their variant seems maybe more technically difficalt but more safety.

(15.09.2003)
I am pleased to inform you that an adventure race VX Zemgale 2003 - 6th edition of VX adventure races - is coming closer.
The race will take place on October 3-5 at Latvia's southern province - Zemgale. Final date for team applications - September 25! As it became tradition in last years there will be two clases in our Race. Elite class teams will race over 150 km distance in 40 hours, Mass class teams - more 90 km in 24 hours.
Rules of the Race: http://www.vx.lv/piedzivojums/sac/vxz03/vxz03_en_rules.htm

(15.09.2003)
Jannu-2003
The latest news from 11.09.03
"Hello, friends! It turned out that the life corrected our plans.
10.09.03 Ruchkin, Totmyanin and Mihaylov fixed 16 ropes over the ice part and descended to spend night in the Camp installed by Odintsov and Pershin right at the foot of the ice fall. At the same time Mikhail Davy and Alex Bolotov ascended as higher as possible and lifted the part of the equipment and the ropes. However the glacier proved to be harder and more tangled then we supposed.
11.09.03 The leading three-men and Bolotov added them fixed two ropes more upwards, lift the load and came up against the huge splits. They had to descend to the 8th rope and to search another way to climb the ice fall. Today they are spending this night on the small plate among the ice fall. It's such a safe place. And tomorrow they are going to search for a new way. That part of the ice fall was quite firm with the ice covered by a layer of shifting ground. While the right part of the ice fall to has crumbled we think. And the huge ice blocks are continuing to fall every five minutes. I decided to ascend the opposite side's slope tomorrow a little higher to coordinate on a radio transmitter the Alex's climbing. It's everything OK in our Base Camp. We all send the warmest regards to our friends, familiars who support us.
Bye-bye Mikhail Davy.

(12.09.2003)
There is another exciting project this fall - the third attempt of Valery Babanov teamed with Yury Koshelenko this time for Nuptse East. They leave Moscow tommorow. We look forward to following their climb as well on our pages (RUS) .

 

 

(12.09.2003)
Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Ararat 2003
Alexander Abramov reports:
"11, September.
We were at the summit of the holy mountain Ararat at 10.30 in the morning. The team of Adventure Alpindustria fulfilled the forethought. On the 11th of September the team of 15 persons were standing at the summit of the mountain at 10.30 o'clock in the morning. We are the first organized and legal team, which ascended at the summit of the Ararat in Russia. The team of 15 persons left the camp 4200m at 3 o'clock in the morning. The weather was fair but the west wind was blowing strongly. The route was leading through screes, two steps forth and one step back. It was hard to move so we had to stop for a moment.
The team reached the tablet "4500m" and halted there. After the tablet the mountainside became a bit even and then it stood on end. We surmounted this obstacle and buried ourselves in the ice mountain slope at bout 100m and 30 degree of the steepness. The railing ropes were set up because the ice was hard and the fall would be 900m down. We passed the slope, climbed the fore-summited table and then ascended 150m on the steep ice to the summit 5100m. Our joy was unlimited. Artur kissed the summit and offered the cognac "Ararat". Nobody refused to drink. The ascension was hard for some persons. Vladimir Musarskiy, Vitaliy and Galina Tomchyk showed miraculous endurance and aspiration to victim.
The gladness was not full. Nurzhan Shaikenov had not taken part in the ascension because of the health. The local guides did not want to ascend one time more over one person. So we (Abramov Alexander and Nurzhan Shaikenov) decided to reach the summit next day. Wish us Good Luck!"

(12.09.2003)
Jannu-2003
The latest news:
Hi, all our dear friends, familiars. Everything is all right.
07.09.03 Finally we reached the Base Camp (4500m) near Jannu after a long 7-hours march from Gunza in spite of Maoists, civic wars, unflying helicopters and terrible leeches. All the way we could enjoy the nature of those pleases. The mountain was like mirage appearing through the mist and the storm clouds and disappearing. The weather was playing with us. And it was always raining in the afternoon.
09.09.03 The Camp was adorned with sacred flags, fires, rice and consecrated by sacred Nepal's prayers to bring us luck and good weather. All the day we were preparing for tomorrow's start and inspecting our equipment. It was planned Ruchkin, Totmyanin and Mihaylov to work the ice falls and then to climbed the plateau at 5400m and all the others to have working trekking to lift the equipment and to install the Camp.
10.09.03 the above-mentioned guys went out to assault at 06.30. At 08.30 they were under the ice falls. The others went out at 09.30. This part of the route isn't safe so we should take off the ropes. Tomorrow three-men Bolotov, Davy, Pershin are planning to fix rope over the steeper and difficult but less dangerous rock route to go round the ice falls. And four-men Ruchkin, Totmyanin, Mihaylov, Odintsov are going to climb straight upwards.
Wish us good luck and good weather, Odintsov, Ruchkin, Davy.

(11.09.2003)
Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Ararat 2003
Alexander Abramov reports:
"10,Septermber. The Adventure Team of Alpindustria is fighting with the foul weather. The wind is blowing strongly and the summit has been covered with heavy clouds. We had got off the first camp 3200m and it took us three hours to reach the second camp 4200m. The second camp was installed on the ridge of the mountain between big stones. Every tent has its own even area like bird's nest. We checked all our equipment: cramps, harnesses, and belays. All persons in the team feel perfect. We will try to take the mountain by the storm tomorrow. At first the route leads through screes and then up to the steep, ice ridge of the mountain. We are planning to set up the railing ropes there at about 100m. There is much talk about Noah's Ark in the team but we have not seen signs of it. The Turk Authorities allows only one route at the mountain from the south. It is like lyric poetry but in reality the weather has changed for the worse. The success of our ascension is questionable. The team will have t! o pluck up the spirit tomorrow. In spite of our expectations the Ararat has turned out to be not simple but rough mountain. Follow our news! Good Bye."
The Leaders of the Expedition: Abramov Alexander and Luida Korobeshko.

(10.09.2003)
Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Ararat 2003
Alexander Abramov reports:
"8, September.
We had been afraid of what nearly happened. I want my team say thank you for their manly withstanding of the first trial. I will try to tell you news one after another.
The weather was fine in the morning. We got on the two microbuses and left the hotel at 9 o'clock in the morning. All team was in a perfect mood. When our documents were being inspected in the military unit some hitch happened. The servicemen told they had not received the fax from the Department of Defense concerning our permission of the ascension in spite of such fact that original of the permission was in our hands. We were not told when we should wait for the answer that day, next day or the day after tomorrow. What had we to do? Luida took all the team to the coffee house. The problem with permission was principle but all the members of our team did not give the way to the panic, they were joking.
At about 15 o'clock the warriors found the fax. Our joy was unspeakable. We reached the village Ali. The mules loaded and we started the ascension. The beauty of the mountain was splendid. The time was 18.30 and at 19.30 it was dark. The sunset was magnificent. I had not seen such sunset long time ago. It was a pity that it met us on the half way. We persuaded Avdonin Constantine and Karapetyan Artur to walk a bit slower but they did not listen. As a result all the team reached the first team and even Anna Ribokova, she was shooting the film. The ascension had been planned in Moscow under the full moon. We did not use the torches because everything was perfectly seen at our camp in moonlight. All the persons were in cheerful mood but very hungry. The Turkish cook was preparing the dinner. If I am not in a hurry, my friends will eat everything.
Good Bye."
"9,Septermber.
We have become acquainted with Gerald Roach. Gerald is the second man in the world accomplished the project "Seven Summits". He ascended at the summit of the Ararat on his birthday. His wife is going to ascend the summit of the Elbrus with "Alpindustria".
The morning is perfectly warm without wind. We are having breakfast in the open air. In the morning at 9 o'clock all the team is going out to have acclimatization to the second camp. Our way runs through scree. Luida is going at the head and I am brining up the rear. The team is ready enough, one kilometer of climbing for three hours without particular effort. We are developing the practice of ascension and necessary equipment. Most likely we will have to set up railing ropes because of the solid ice at the summit. The weather is fine for the ascension up till now. The team is elated. Follow our news! Good Bye. The Leaders of the Expedition: Abramov Alexander and Luida Korobeshko.

(9.09.2003)
Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Ararat 2003
Alexander Abramov reports:
"7, September.
The night in the bus is not a great pleasure. My leg has come numb. From the left side is sitting the moustached Turk and blocks all my efforts to stretch the leg. We are driving up to Dogubeyazit and it needs only 200km to reach it. The landscapes remind mostly the mountain of the middle Asia, hills are covered with rare grass, rocks, and sometimes resembles the desert and vast expenses of Tibet. I imagined the same at that time in Moscow when Luida and I were preparing the expedition. Kurds inhabit these places. Poor villages, most of the houses are covered with earth roofs, the flock of sheep and haystacks are met on our way. It is another picture of Turkey.
The carcasses of the Christian churches remind about the presence of Armenians.
It is the great problem to receive the permission of the ascending. We had been waiting for the permission two months and received it on that day when we were planning to remove the dates of the expedition. Our group consists of seventeen persons. One member of our group is Artur Karapetyan, he is from Armenia, received the permission miraculously but the question is how to pass all the check posts. The military force guards the zone around the mountain Ararat. Artur is an artist, traveler and his dream is to ascend at the summit of the Ararat. Whether he comes true the wish we will know in one week. And now the settlement Agri, it takes only 30km to get to it. What a splendid view of the Mountain Ararat! There is little snow at the summit. The weather is fair. All the team has gathered. We are going to the village Ali, 2200m, at 9 o'clock tomorrow and whereupon our team will try to reach the first camp 3600m, with the help of the mules.
Good Bye."

(9.09.2003)
Jannu-2003
Aleksandr Odintsov called from the Base Camp and said that after a week's way they reached the place at last. They are going to be resting tomorrow but the 10th of September they'll start to work.

"Hi, all friends, we are all right. We had to keep silence and to tiptoe through the taiga to avoid meeting mayoists. Now we are nearly in Los Angeles. They call so a small village (altitude 2350m). Actually it's named Amjulhasa. Now start in succession. We were living in clover in Taplejung village negotiating about a helicopter for three days and nights and. But it seems to take a helicopter is a great luxury in Nepal. Finally we became tired, and all members began to beat a hoof and we decided to go…
Our large caravan comprised 67 porters including three women. Three men were caring a luggage of 65kg and some of the others were caring 45kg. The White man or woman would die but the sherps are very hardy and unpretentious people. Their children go to school for a few hours a day getting across mountain rivers.
With the help of two bottles of changa we persuaded the sherps to move faster as soon as possible to make several crossings a day. It takes 7-8 hours and was very serious. Usually the trek Taplejung-Jannu takes 7-8 days. We are planning to do it for 3-4 days.
First day we hopped to Mitlung (altitude 900m) for 4 hours. We stayed for the lodging for a night at a hotel like a balcony on the second floor. The second crossing Mitlung-Topletok (altitude 1300m) took 7 hours. Topletok is fantastic! The hotel like a shed turned out was closed. So we had to install an only huge tent on a good ground. All the night it was raining. It seemed as a river flowed right here. We didn't enjoy very much being there at all when some guys were washed away under the neighbouring awning.
The crossings were very dangerous. And you are been waiting on each meter of the path by…. Maoists? Not, leeches. They are like wild hungry animals. Some guys managed to catch 10 leeches at once. But the doctor calmed us down and said that some people paid a lot of many for applying leeches and you got them free as in a health resort.
Today is the 5th of September and with a bit of luck we can get Gunsa. The temperature is about 30°C at night in shade and it rises till 50°C in the Sun. The humidity is simply incredible- 69% probably. It could depend on a lot of waterfalls, rivers and streams we encounter here. But we are still keeping going with all our will-power despite sweating and growing thin. We had a lodging for a night in a hotel-balcony again. Fortunately we found beer there and we drunk a little of course to resist such the mad heat and to improve our health. Thanks to the doctor's prescription to eat 30gr of Whiskas to avoid catching liver worms we are still living. And now our toast is "Liver worms go home!" in place of Russian "Your health!" We are alive, we love all of you, and we are not going to be missing and we say to you: "Good-bye!"
On the 8th of September we are in Gunsa. All of us are assembled. Samoylenko and Kuznetsov look like aboriginals. Tomorrow we are starting to Kombachen and then going to the Base Camp. It takes 5 hours. The yaks are caring the luggage and we are caring ourselves. It's not so bad. Hope for the next connection from the base Camp.
Ruchkin and companions"

(8.09.2003)
Russian Adventure Team Alpindustria - Ararat 2003
Russian Adventure Team is heading for the Biblical Mount Ararat (5134m) or Mount Agri as it is also called. It is not technically difficult, but it is pretty hard to get all the necessary permissions. Only in the very last minute we were told that we are allowed to go… Besides, the logistic is pretty complicated. The Team has chosen to divide in two parts - one going via Istanbul and the other - going via Antalya. The whole team is supposed to meet in Dogubeyazit on September 7, from where the trekking begins. We are sending daily news from the mountain. Follow our adventures.
News from Ararat Expedition of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov.
Alexander Abramov reports:
"6,September.
We said goodbye to the warm sea and embarked on adventures. The fact of our crossing Turkey at about 24 hours, through Antalya to the Ararat, surprised the Turks at the stations. It is too difficult to understand our Russian wide soul. For our big country it is not the distance at all. We have rather comfortable and convenient bus with videotape recorder, biotoilet and etc.
The salon of the bus is deodorized and our hands are cologned all the time. It is splendiferous country. Big hills surround us and we soon meet the beautiful lakeside on our way. As Marina noticed we had been traveling 6 hours already. I have not caught the time for me it was half an hour. It is refused to laugh, drink, smoke and use the mobile phone in the bus. The cities amaze us with clearness and sameness in the architecture. The modern buildings alternate with minarets. I have feeling that one of my foot appears in Europe and another in Asia. Illuminated indicators under all traffic lights show the time of turning the lights. There are few cars because of the petrol it costs there 1,5$. Luida Korobeshko flight to Istanbul to meet the second our group and she has already reported that everything is OK.
Good Bye."

(8.09.2003)
Dear friends, colleagues!
The joint project of "Alp-Navruz" and "Asia Travel" companies, dedicated to "Communism - 70 years" and "Korjenevskaya - 50 years" jubilee ascents in the Pamir has been finished.
For the first time in last years 76 mountaineers from 15 world countries arrived in the International Mountain camp on the Moskvina glacier. The most representative teams were from Check Republic, Spain, South Korea, Norway, and Germany.
In spite of the severe weather conditions in the first part of the program and heavily changed landscape of glaciers and slopes (especially on Korjenevskaya Peak), the results of the season are impressive: 26 mountaineers have reached the Korjenevskaja Peak top (7105 m.) and 9 mountaineers have reached the Communism Peak top (7495 m.).
One should notice especially the achievements of Mrs. Dulskaya (Russia, Irkutsk), Mrs Khofmanova and Mr.Milfait (Check Republic) having reached the both summits over 7000 meters and also the mountaineers from Sweden Mr. Ericsson - the first in the World who made the descent from the top of Communism Peak by ski.
Unfortunately there were victims. On 27 July descending from the Korjenevskaya Peak on the altitude of 6500 m. fell down and died a mountaineer from Check Republic - Mr. Wlchek.
Let's hope that 2003 yeas has become the year of rebirth of the International Mountain camp on the Moskvina glacier and the season 2004 will be more successful and safe.
We are welcome you!

(5.09.2003)
Sax on the Elbrus West Summit, 5642m
On Thusday, August, 14 at 9h05 local time the Russian well-known photographer Vladimir Kopilov summited Elbrus with his client Mr Shibata Akihiko-sun. On the summit Vladimir played the sax the famous "Let my people go..."
"The most difficult thing for me was to climb with this rather heavy sax (8kg) and two cameras. But my client felt even worse. He refused to play though it was his idea "the sax part on the highest point of Europe", he asked me to realise his life-long dream. On the summit the hurricane wind was waiting for us (10m/sec) and the temperature was -10C, but I played with pleasure "Let my people go..."

 

(2.09.2003)
Dear friends, Russian Adventure Team on Ararat

September 5, Russian Adventure Team is heading for the Biblical Mount Ararat (5134m) or Mount Agri as it is also called. It is not technically difficult, but it is pretty hard to get all the necessary permissions to get there. Our team has encountered heaps of bureaucratic barriers trying to arrange permissions. Only in the very last minute we were told that we are allowed to go… Besides, the logistics is pretty complicated. The Team has chosen to divide in two parts - one going via Istanbul and the other - going via Antalya. The whole team is supposed to meet in Dogubeyazit on September 7, from where the trekking begins. We are going to send daily reports from the Mountain. Follow our adventures! Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov (he lead a successful expedition to Everest from Tibet side this past spring and is organizing another one in the spring of 2004 again).

(2.09.2003)
Jannu-2003
Hello friends, As the situation with the helicopter hasn't been solved, we have chosen to start to BC with the caravan. Today, September 1, we were driving for 10 hours non-stop along a very bad road, but in the end had only aching backs and 25 km distance from Fidim. Though we did reach our destination - Taplejung village - but the truck with our luggage failed to start today, so it will arrive tomorrow evening at best. We stayed in the only functioning hotel - it's hasn't been built up to the end yet - it has no electricity, so we'll have some problems with charging our laptop. We had a meeting with the head of local police office. He doesn't think we will have any problems with mayoists during the trekking, because they hate mainly Americans. To be on the safe side, we took red T-shirts with hammer and sickle (national anthem of the former USSR) with us
For the time being we are planning to proceed from here with the porters the day after tomorrow.
Best regards to everyone, Mikhail Devi.

(27.08.2003)
Julia Abramchuk became the first Russian women succedeed to do 8b. Recently she sent 4th go "Tropo Shwar", 8Â (Arco, Italy).

 

 

 

(27.08.2003)
Jannu-2003
Aleksandr Odincov report:
"Hi, everyone, August 15, our whole team summited Khan-Tengri peak, and the following day all members safely descended to Base Camp. According to the results of altimeters' measurements, the snow dome this year is 30 meters higher than the tripod (which is 6995m over sea level), so the climbing of Khan-Tengri can be considered to be the climbing of a 7-thousender if you reach the top of this dome
The team spent 2 nights at 6400m for better acclimatization. During the whole time of the ascent the weather was perfect. Tomorrow we are planning to take a helicopter back to civilization, where Alexei Bolotov is waiting for us in Karakol.
We have tickets from Bishkek to Delhi on August 22, and further to Katmandu on August 24, but it hasn't been confirmed yet. Is this is true, we'll try to get Indian visas in Bishkek so that we won't have to hang around 2 days in Delhi airport. We'll tell you our new email address a bit later, Good luck, Till soon. "

(19.08.2003)
South Face of Khan-Tengri (6995m)
After acclimitizating ascent (normal route on the South of Khan-Tengri) the Tatarstan team made ascent via the Khan Tengri South Face (Sviridenko route, 6B). The ascent took them 7 days. The details will be put on our pages later.




(19.08.2003)
Peak POBEDA
Today, on Thusday, August, 19 at 11.20 local time the members of International Mountaineering Club reached the summit of peak Pobeda via new route alone North Face of peak Armenia.
The team memebers are:
Technical leader - Gleb Sokolov, Novosibirsk.
Petr Kuznetsov, Oleg Hvostenko, Vladimir Arhipov, Sergey Filatov, Eugeny Bakalejnikov, Sergej Cherezov, Alexander Mihalitsin
Couch - Nicolay Zakharov, Krasnoyarsk
Expedition leader - Uriy Bajkovsky, Moscou

(18.08.2003)
Kongur - 2003, Bonnington Route
On Saturday, 16, August, at 13.30 we had Andrey Petrov's call:
"...Everybody feels well. The weather is fine. We've installed already both the Camp III at 6900m and Camp IV (assault camp) at 7200m. Now the team has a reste at Base Camp. On Sunday, 17, the second groupe leaves for the ascent and the first groupe starts on following day, on Monday, 18, August."

(11.08.2003)
Kongur - 2003, Bonnington Route
8.08.03 at 20.00 by Hohlov's call
" The weather has become worse. The second groupe starts an acclimatizing ascent (6000m) on Sunday, August, 10. On Monday, 11, the first team leaves for setting up the both Camp III at 6900m and Camp IV (the cave at 7200m). If everything will go right way, they'll continue up to the summit (7719m) The members of first team are: Hohlov U.V., Hlustikov I.N., Volodin I.E., Legkih V.G., Gomerbah V. The members of second groupe are: Petrov A.E., Odohovsky V.V., Medvedev A.P., Urbansky A.V. "

(11.08.2003)
Jannu-2003
Chronicle of Khan Tengri Acclimatizing Ascent.

The Odintsov's team has made the acclimatazing ascent of Khan-Tengri. In the evening, August, 6 they were at Camp I at 4200m. On Thursday, 6 at 7 a.m. they went along the Semenovsky Glacier to Camp II situated at the end of icefall at the altitude of 5250m. In the unceasing snowfall they spent the rest of the day in their tents. There was a heavy fall of snow in the night (20cm of snow-blanket).
On Friday, 8 the weather has become better, it became possible to go up to Camp III (5800m), situated at the dam between the peak Khan-Tengri and the peak Chapaev. The night was spent at the snow cave.
On Saturday, 9 at 9.00a.m. the team downhilled at the Tjan Shan' Travel Base Camp, located at the U.Inilchek Glacier at 4100m.

(8.08.2003)
Jannu -2003. 8.08.03

The message from Mikhail Mihailov, Khan-Tengri :
"The team has started an acclimatizing ascent. This night they spend at Camp II at 5300m. The weather doesn't give any cause for joy, it's snowing hard every day and there is a high avalanche risk. Tommorow if the weather allows them to go on, the guys have an intention to climb up to the col at Camp II, at 5900m."

(7.08.2003)
Jannu -2003

On Wednesday, August, 6 the team has arrived at Khan-Tengri Base Camp. The weather is bad. It's snowing. There are a lot of people at the Base Camp on the glacier Uzhiy Inilchek. Everybody is waiting for the break.

(7.08.2003)
Peak Pobeda-2003
On Tuesday, July, 15 the multi-members team from Krasnoyarsk (Siberia) left for Central Tjan-Shan, peak Pobeda with the goal to make an ascent via Face of Peak Armenia by new route.
Now the team is in Khan-Tengri Base Camp for making acclimatizing ascents. The weather is unsettled; it's snowing all the time (10 cm-blanket of snow at BC). We were about to set up ABC, but we have to delay our start.

(7.08.2003)
Kongur-2003
On Thursday, August, 7 at 9.40am we had a phone call from Hlusticov: We have a rest day at Base Camp. To sum up for today: Camp II was set up at 6000m, the second team became acclimatized at 5100m. The weather is fair but it's blowing hard.

(7.08.2003)
"Ukraine- Karakorum":

On Monday, August, 4, at 17h30 local time the Ukrainian climbers Vladimir Moghila, Alexej Zhilin, Alexandre Lavrinenko and Vitalij Jarichevsky returned to Base Camp after having made the successful ascent on NW Wall of Trango Tower (Great). The descent took them 2,5 days, the weather was awful upper 5000m it was snowing, below it was raining hard.

 




Vladimir Moghila
Alexandre Lavrinenko
Alexej Zhilin
Vitalij Jarichevsky
The team "Trango" in BC

 

(28.07.2003)

Greenland, Nalumasortog (2054 m)

Yes! He did it! The First ever Base Jump in Greenland!

On June, 22 at 15.00 the team summited, the weather was not so good for making base jump. Valera Rozov was waiting up to the late evening and only at 20.30 when the wind calmed down and the fog cleared up could make the first ever base jump from the Greenland summit. Time of flight was 35 sec, the hight was 900 meters.

 

(28.07.2003)

On July, 23 at 14h10 local time the Ukraine team summited Hidden Peak without using oxygen. The team members were Vladislav Terzeul, Nikolay Gorunov, Sergey Pugachov. This alpine style ascent, the first in this season, was made in the memory of their friend Vladimir Pestrikov died 9 days ago after having got terrible accident during the acclimatizing ascent.

(28.07.2003)

For Tomaz Humar Nanga Parbat remains 'love at second sight'

Ljubljana, July 26, 2003 - Top Slovene mountaineer Tomaz Humar returned to his homeland yesterday evening, after having discontinued his attempt to conquer the Himalayan mountain of Nanga Parbat along a new route. He has conquered seven of the world's highest summits so far, but was forced to give in to a mountain for the first time. Although it has been four years since his last venture, which he spent recovering from a very serious injury, it was unfavourable weather conditions and not his readiness that caused him to give in. Humar was greeted at Brnik airport by his relatives and devoted followers. At a press conference held right after his arrival, he described the climbed route in detail and said conditions were 'terrible this year. I have never seen anything like it. A poor season like this occurs in the mountains every few years.

' On June 16, Humar left from Slovenia to 8.125 m high Nanga Parbat, situated in the north of Pakistan, with his ten-member expedition: Josko Bojic, Stipe Bozic, Tomo Drolec, Arne Hodalic, Matej Mosnik, Lado Ogrin, dr. Anda Perdan, Natasa Pergar, Bostjan Repinc, and Gregor Zupanc. The expedition was superiorly organized and fitted with the latest equipment and informational technology. Humar's intention was to conquer the mountain alpine style and on his own along a new route in the Rupal face, with almost 5.000 m considered the highest face in the world. 'Rupal face is a very complicated one,' emphasized Humar during the press conference held at his arrival. 'There are a lot of factors that can't be predicted in advance, a climber discovers them as he goes along, as not everything can be seen from the foot of the mountain or from a certain angle. Average steepness of the slope is high; it is also easy to get lost in its magnitude. When I presented my plan to Reinhold Messner, he didn't recognize the face from the photographs, even though he climbed it thirty years ago. The face is changing a lot.'

Humar counted on the snow to stick to the mountain and for the most part create a foundation that would enable him to make progress. He took many details in consideration, and set the predicted starting date of the ascent also according to the moon - beside the fact that a full moon enables better visibility during the night, it also affects the compactness of snow. The 0°C temperature limit was a 1.000 m higher than usual this year because of early start and uncharacteristic development of the monsoon period. This caused quick melting of snow, abundant precipitations and more avalanches than usual. Warm weather also increased the chances for infections. Despite these facts, Humar tried to complete acclimatization four times. During his last attempt he covered 450 altitude meters in just a few hours. He climbed from Camp III at 6.050 m to the altitude of 6.500 m, sometimes sinking over waist-deep in the snow, and was also touched by an avalanche. 'The fourth attempt was all about going home with a clear heart,' he said. At the time he communicated to Base: 'It would make no sense to enter the face. I feel fine, in fact, but there is virtually no possibility of me returning from it alive.'

The conditions were extremely unfavourable despite the fact that Humar feels he started this expedition better than ever. Preparations were ideal, and his readiness was exceptional. But it took the team a whole day to cover distances they conquered in just two hours during the rare periods of good weather. Avalanches and abundant precipitations tore down the already set up tents several times. The mere journey to the mountain was much harder than it should have been due to demolished roads. From early in the expedition on, its members were faced with repeated infections weakening their physical conditions.

Tomaz Menih, deputy manager of Mobitel company, general sponsor of the expedition, said at the press conference: 'We were aware that this is a difficult project. We suggested Humar to think about going through with the venture. Weather is an objective circumstance that can't be changed.' He also added: 'Mobitel does not abandon the people it sponsors, even when they are unable to reach the anticipated goal.' Humar's decision to withdraw from the venture was accepted with understanding by many who followed the expedition through his web site. A lot of them expressed their support via SMS and e-mail messages. First media reports following the conclusion of his expedition have also been positive. Humar's web site has so far received over 90.000 visitors, who went through all of its articles.

Humar also pointed out that the main question is how this mountain could be conquered. He feels the skill factor is more important than danger. 'I don't think the mountain will be too crowded,' he added humorously, as there is no easy answer to the question of how to conquer it, and no matter what the answer, it would take a superbly prepared and motivated mountaineer to complete the venture. 'Nanga Parbat is most of all a challenge: a climbing challenge, a challenge of orientation … the further you go to the extreme, the easier it is to solve it. It is the weather that holds additional options concerning the logistics of how to conquer the mountain.' Ales Smrekar, who led the press conference, asked him if he plans to return to Nanga Parbat. Humar answered: 'Nanga Parbat has been in my mind for several years now. First I have to arrange my thoughts and get rid of impatience. A mountain waits.

' Fresh reports will still be available at http://www.humar.com, http://www.pinkponk.com, http://www.mobitel.si, and Mobitel's multimedia portal Planet, or via Mobitel's SMS and MMS info service. Additional press related questions can be addressed to humar@agencija41.si

(24.07.2003)

Tomaz Humar ends expedition to Nanga Parbat before time

Ljubljana, July 23, 2003Original plan predicted Tomaz Humar to enter the south face of Nanga Parbat on July 10, climbing it along a new route, but he was unable to do so due to extremely bad weather conditions and illness. Following three unsuccessful acclimatization attempts, he ventured along the Messner route for the fourth time last week. He planned to ascend to acclimatization altitude of 7.000 m. The first three days of the ascent were successful. Yesterday morning he communicated to Base Camp that the conditions in the face are too poor and he is retutning to the valley. At the same time, this concluded the expedition.

Unlike Nepal, where main climbing seasons take place in spring and autumn, summer is the most appropriate time for mountaineering in the west of Pakistan. As far as the weather is concerned, Humar has been extremely unlucky from the very beginning. Temperatures in western Pakistan have been unusually high for July, which made the snow and ice on the mountain melt constantly. Unusually numerous avalanches rolled down the slopes, and snow along the Messner route, which was to be Humar's acclimatization ascent, was so soft he sank over waist-deep at the altitude of 6.000 m and higher. High temperatures were also accompanied by more precipitations than expected in the last month. Rain and snowfall prevented progress along the Messner route and more than once damaged the tents Humar and his expedition members had alredy set up.

Apart from the weather, expedition members also experienced severe health problems. The source of their cyclic stomach problems could not be found, which meant the expedition's doctor Anda Perdan was unable to treat them properly. Their ordeal finally ended with the advice of a Pakistani doctor, more familiar with local diseases: he determined amoeba as the cause of their problems. At least temporarily, this can be treated by administering large doses of antibiotics. More detailed medical tests will be performed once the expedition returns to Ljubljana.

Despite the facts that he was much weakened by illness and that temperatures continued to rise every day, Humar decided on Saturday to try and reach the altitude of 7.000 m along the Messner route one last time. By doing this he would complete his acclimatization and could still enter the face along the planned new route in case of favourable weather conditions. Croatian mountaineer Stipe Bozic accompanied him during this acclimatization attempt, and they made good progress for the first three days: on Monday, they reached the altitude of 6.050 m, something that could not be accomplished during previous acclimatization ascents. They also set up Camp III at this altitude. Yesterday, Humar tried to climb to 7.000 m by himself. Conditions in the face were extremely unfavourable: temperatures only dropped below 0ºC above 6.000 m, snow was extremely soft and sank waist-deep, sometimes even deeper, and avalanches were released constantly. Once he reached the altitude of 6.500 m, Humar communicated to Base Camp that conditions are too poor an he is returning to the valley.

Humar and his expedition members are expected to return to Slovenia on Friday, July 25. There will be a press conference at the conclusion of the expedition on Friday, July 25 at 6pm at Brnik Airport.

(23.07.2003)

The Red Bull X-Alps log book ­ Part III

Friday, July 18th After the tough rain test from Thursday, the Friday was again a flying day for most of the pilots, although the greater part could only start in the late afternoon due to the intense humidity. Kaspar Henny is still in the clear lead. The Swiss launched near Scuol in the Unter Engadin, crossing the Fluelapass, had to take some vertical meters in Weissfluh to continue over Chur until Trin: this day brought him 70 kilometers closer to the first turning point in Verbier and underlined his number one position. Hotspot Seegruben
Thomas Friedrich (GER) and Urs Loetscher were also among the ones passing or better flying over the Swiss boarder. Behind them, a pulk of pilots fighting for good positions. Most of them launched north of Innsbruck at the Seegruben (1905 meters). Will Gadd (CAN/USA) pushed himself into fourth position. David Dagault (FRA), Uros Rozic (SLO) and Krzysztof Ziolkowski (POL) also flow out of the Ober Inntal. Right in the middle of this forefield is Holger Herfurth: On Friday the young German, still ranked fifth, but only made 32 km. Despite the difficult condidtions and the enormous hiking distances the athletes had to undertake the atmosphere is still very good.
Saturday, July 19th 444 kilometers! Kaspar Henny (CH) passed the 50 percent-mark to Monaco on the sixth day of Red Bull X-Alps. With a dream flight the Swiss covered 124 km in one piece on Saturday, he has only some 50 k¹s left to reach the first turning point in Verbier: His closest competitor is compatriot Urs Loetscher, who didn¹t take the common way through the Wallis, but a rather unusual route over the south. Will Gadd (USA/CAN) and David Dagault (FRA) were flying together for the second day and passed the German duo Holger Herfurth und Thomas Friedrich. The only reason Thomas could be overtaken was his landing accident near Chur. His paraglider collapsed and he was falling down several meters. He experienced a heavy compression of his torso and therefore had to take a break for most part of the Saturday. If he will be able to continue at all was not sure on Saturday evening. Supporter Markus Harpf, who also had a car crash on the same day, tried to ease some of Thomas pain with a special massage.
The heros at the end
Not only at the front, but also at the back end of the field the pilots show great flight feeling. Gerhard Gassner (AUT) for example managed to fly over the south part of the Alps and avoided to go through the Ziller and the Inn valley. Arif Kemal Buhara (TUR) fighted his way through the Stubaier Alps, the Oetztal and the Pitztal until the Piller. Tomi Coconea (RUM) was the only one who chose the difficult route over the Arlberg and still was able to cover over 80 kilometers. No success for Walter Holzmüller: The Austrian veteran got directly into an inversion and was not able to gain height at all, he only covered 22 km on Saturday.
Sunday, July 20th Day seven of Red Bull X-Alps and the third day in a row with excellent flying conditions for the pilots. A high cloude base and good thermic brought the teams closer to Monaco. Kaspar Henny was the first one to pass the turning point in Verbier and spent the night in St. Nicolas near Aosta. Pilot of the day was his compatriot Urs Loetscher, who got incredible 132 k¹s closer to Monaco and was hiking until late that night ­ a record for Red Bull X-Alps. Behind the Swiss front a fight in the Wallis between David Dagault (FRA), Stefan Bocks and Will Gadd took place. Winner of the race, the French David Dagault, who will be able to use his local knowledge soon ­ does he know the fastest route through Southern France and will he be able to stop Kaspar?
Thomas Friedrich: He stays in the race Despite his hard landing and his torso compression he wants to continue. But the pain on Sunday is too much that he is not able to put on his harness. He continued walking, saying that he can recover a bit during the hike. He covered almost 30 k¹s in distance on that day. Supporter Markus Harpd: ³He is a really tough guy.²
A look a the flight statistics
What can be seen very clearly is that Red Bull X-Alps is really a flying and not a hiking competiton. The athletes in front have flewn most part of their distance. Kaspar Henny 84 percent, Urs Loetscher 74 percent and David Dagault almost 90 Percent of their route ­ the French is therefore the pilot with the most Œflying miles¹ in the field. Also among the flying pilots ­ Austrian Gerhard Gassner (80 %), Turkish Arif Kemal Buhara (81 %), Italian Andi Frötscher (80 %) and US-Canadean Will Gadd (78,5 %). At the very end of the statistic and also the ranking: Jon Shaw (UK), who still remains motiviated altough he has 300 k¹s between him and the leader. Jon: ³For me, Red Bull X-Alps is a race between the mountains and me. Most of the other pilots are professionals and I am not. It¹s like a regular person is going to race in a Formula I car against Michael Schumacher, it's possible but difficult...

(11.07.2003)
Rock climbing World Championship. Chamonix. Bouldering. Finals.
Day 2.
In the evening the people were gathering in the square, by 8 p.m. there were no chances to get through to the climbing wall.
12 climbing boards were put in a single file, men to the left, girls to the right. Start was given simultaneously.
Christian Core in blue shirt of a Europe Champion climbed second, then Akito Matsushima - young impressive Japenese, a good follower of Uiji Hiroyama, Jerome Meyer, blond Tomasz Oleksy, Mauro Calibani in yellow leader's t-shirt, Serik Kazbekov and Salavat.
Salavat and Calibani got stucked almost in the beginning. Though both amused the audience a lot : iron Mauro, failing to read the third problem, chose to rest a bit, hanging upside down with both hands hanging free. Then Salavat climbed past the holds. Speakers, warming up the audience, shouted loudly : " What is he doing ? He is a freak ! He is crazy ! " Meanwhile Core was topping on the last problem. After the top he jumped down, untied the chalk bag and threw it into the crowd. A second later, still being in the state of euphoria, he took off his Europe Champion fancy blue T-shirt and it followed the chalk bag. One of the DJ cried : " Don't stop there Christian, now for your shorts ! " At the same time a young French girl climber Juliette Danion was topping out too, " Juliette, now it is your turn, give your T-shirt to the public ! "
It is worth mentioning Sandrine Levet's performance. It was definitely her day. She was confidently topping one problem after another. After the fourth problem there was no doubt left about who will get the title of the World Champion. The fifth problem - and again TOP. Now she can relax- but Levet climbs the sixths problem and falls out on the last move.

Female Results:
1 Sandrine Levet FRA
2 Nataliya Perlova UKR
3 Fanny Rogeaux FRA

1 Christian Core ITA
2 Jerome Meyer FRA
3 Tomasz Oleksy POL

Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

(10.07.2003)
"Russian Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face

"Hello everyone, Seregin, Lastochkin and Ahmedhanov started working on the wall. They passed the lower band of rocks and climbed half a pitch. The difficulty is higher then average, approximately A3+, lots of flakes and loose rock, overhangs. Rozov, Dorfman, Lifanov went around the wall in search of easy decent route. But failed to find it. From behind it looks almost the same. The only variant of descent is the ascent route. It's not yet clear what to do with Dima and Leva. The weather is getting worse and colder, misty. Everyone is in good health. "

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

(9.07.2003)
The 2-nd International KHAN-TENGRI Festival wil take place during the period 17 July - 07 August 2003.
The Festival is based on North Inylchek glacier, next to Khan-Tengri North Face. Organizer of the Festival - tour company "Asia Tourism".
Details

(8.07.2003)
Rock climbing World Championship. July 9 - 13. Chamonix. The Title of a world Champion is on stake once in two years.
The seventh Rock climbing World Championship starts Wednesday, July 9 in Chamonix. Usually priorities were given to big cities with indoor climbing walls. But what to say about Chamonix? It is next to impossible to compete with this place in respect of spectacular views of the square with Montblanc and Dru in the background. It is the second time that World Championship takes place in France, the first one was in Paris in 1997, when 8000 people gathered in a huge "Zenith" sport center. Now about 12000 are expected in Chamonix… All three disciplines of modern sport rock climbing are represented at the Championship. In a couple of days we'll know the names of six new World Champions in bouldering, difficulty and speed. Leading top climbers have already confirmed their participation.

The program of the Championship:

Wednesday, July 9 World Championship. Bouldering (outdoor).
11:00 - 20:00 Open

Thirsday, July 10 World Championship. Bouldering (outdoor).
20:00 - 20:25. Finals.

Friday, July 11 Mountain Films Festival, barbeque party

Saturday, July 12 World Championship. Speed and Difficulty (outdoor)
12:00 - 20:00 Difficulty. Open.
18:00 - 22:30 Speed. Open and Finals.

Sunday, July 13 World Championship. Difficulty (outdoor)
12:00 - 15:30 Semifinals
20:00 - 22:45 Finals.

Salute and fireworks - July 14, night.

http://www.escalade-competition.com/2003/chamonix/index.php

(8.07.2003)
"Russian Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face
"Hello everyone, We are still carrying equipment to ABC. We had a funny accident. One of us - we won't mention his name - fell into the bog and got stuck there up to his waist, we got him out, the equipment was not damaged, the sinking guy is also ok, just soaked. In the photo you can see our wall. We are planning to climb the central part of the wall to the right tower. The wall looks like an open book. Our route lies on the right side. Tomorrow we are finally moving to the base of the wall. By the evening we are planning to start working on the route. We chose to leave our generator, so we won't send messages every day.
We've just came after fishing. For dinner we have a 2-kilo fish and 2 kg of sea-food. The weather is good. You know about mosquitoes already. Bye, Till then. "

Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" - mountain wear and information support
"Canon" - photo and video equipment
"Paraavis" - parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses

 

Òðàíãî Òàóýð (8.07.2003)
National expedition"Ukraine - Karakorum 2003"
8 July
Today we installed sun batteries, so we have electricity now, so we can provide you with more detailed information. Trango group has problems with sending messages, we receive only voicemail from them. They are ok, if the weather permits, they are going to start working on the route. They say their route is in good conditions. We (Hidden Group) are putting finishing touches to our BC. The day after tomorrow we are planning to set ABC. Today we hope Terzyul will arrange our first banya. The weather is unstable, it's snowing and cloudy. Two days ago two Spaniards were blown away on Gasherbrum II. The search for them is still on. Actually in Gasherbrum I and II BC(where we live) there are about 10 expeditions, the majority is from Spain, it seems so. We didn't have enough time to make friends with the others. In the evening we'll try to send photos.
7 July
"Dear friends! "Ukraine - Karakorum 2003" National expedition has set Base Camps at Trango Tower (at 4000m) and Hidden Peak (5150m). Everyone is ok and working according to the plan. The weather in the region is unstable (wet snow, mist, cloudy)."

Expedition leader Simonenko V.K.

(8.07.2003)
Karakorum – 2003. Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2
4.07.03 News.
"Tomorrow we are starting for Baltoro glacier. Because of some logistic problems we have a detain in our schedule. We were planning to start July 1. We had a great training. Ilyinsky spared no one (out of Russians). Though these cross-races are very straining, but we don't want to lose our acclimatization on the other hand - we are planning an ascent in alpine style. According to the plan we have to be in BC by July 11. Before that - a trekking from Askole along Baltoro glacier. CIS is opening up this region. We have representatives from 4 countries here already: Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Georgia. The weather is fine. General Sponsors: Ministry of Sports of Saratovskaya oblast, International Mountaineering Club. Sponsors: Redfox, Neways
Hello to everybody, Bogomolov Sergey."

(8.07.2003)
Jean-Christophe LAFAILLE - Big Project - Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak...
"Hello, it's July 4, and we are still stuck in Skardu! Our patience is running out. We are far behind our schedule. We have to find the liaison officer - nobody knows where he is - and take a trekking together with him to Broad Peak BC. All in All we have already lost 10 days. Finally on July 7 at 5 a.m. we are starting for BC. July 12 - Broad Peak BC. In spite of some mistakes in the organization, I hope the weather will permit Jean-Christophe to make a speed ascent of Broad Peak. Bye, Katya Lafaille

http://www.jclafaille.com/fr/fr.html?actu.php~pg

 

(7.07.2003)
"Russian Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face
7, July
Hello, We brought the equipment to the wall. The approach to the wall took us about 6 hours. The lane was mushy and overgrown with plants. From the distance the wall looked differently. It is dominating at the end of the valley as a giant fence. We looked through the variant of our ascent and chose the left side of the second tower. It hasn't been climbed before. With binoculars we could see a logic system of cracks, two big overhangs, the wall is at least vertical. We decided to move our BC 3-4 hours up the valley. Tomorrow the first party of two will spend a night at the wall, and the day after tomorrow they will start working on the route. It got a bit colder today, but in general the weather is favorable. The mosquitoes are terrible. Up the valley there are many other nice objects for climbing. The region resembles both Patagonia and Karavshin. Arkady went fishing, Lastochkin is tormenting the guitar, the others are tormenting the phone and computer trying to send this message. We celebrated Lev's son's birthday. There is another wall nearby, in the background of the picture, called ULUMOSORTOG. Everything is OK, bye!

5, July
We've reached Nonartalique. It's rather a big village: a couple of stores, a hotel, a port, a church. And all this is on the shore of a picturesque bay with icebergs and mountains on the horizon… Mr. Nielce is the owner of a local "Blue Ice" tourist company. We are staying in his camping, and tomorrow morning he will take us to Tasemiut fjord mouth. It is 10 - 15 km from the landing point to the wall. The weather is pretty warm -10C. Though it is a bit windy and lots of mosquitoes. We forgot to by special anti-mosquito nets, so now we are trying to by some repellents.
Today we were buying foodstuffs. We managed to find practically everything in the local store. Actually, the living standards of local Eskimo people are pretty high. At times you think you are somewhere in the Northern Europe. Everyone is feeling fine - our evening training proved it once again. Best regards to our friends, kisses and hugs for our beloved.

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(4.07.2003)
Tomaz Humar. Nanga Parbat.
The weather conditions worsen once again
Ljubljana, July 4, 2003 - After the weather improved in the beginning of this week, four mountaineers, with Tomaz Humar as the leader, started their acclimatization ascent along the Messner route. They spent the night in Camp I and ascended to 6.300 m today, where they are setting up Camp II. Despite bad weather conditions, Humar will try to continue the ascent solo to 7.000 m and set up Camp III, as planned.
Details

(1.07.2003)
By June 30, 2003, twenty one sport climbing routes have been prepared in the vicinity of "Bezengi" mountaineering camp
The routes range from 5+ to 8a, from 12 to 25 meters. Only 4 routes are shorter then 20 meters. We hope to start works on setting new routes up to 250 meters long by June 2004. We hope rock climbers will enjoy staying in our camp.
"Bezengi" mountaineering camp administration.

(1.07.2003)
Tomaz Humar. Nanga Parbat.
Setting up camps and waiting for better weather
Ljubljana, June 30, 2003 - Nine days after their arrival beneath the Rupal face of the Himalayan mountain of Nanga Parbat Tomaz Humar and his team set up two camps in addition to Base Camp: Camp ABC at the altitude of 4.200 m, and Camp I at 5.000 m. Due to bad weather conditions they failed to set up Camp II as planned, but are planning to set it up in the next day or two.
Details

Nanga Parbat(1.07.2003)
Karakorum – 2003. Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2

Some meditations Sergei Bogomolov:
26.06.03. I am sitting and grieving because of physical pain. I have just been deprived of a tooth. It was a decision of our Council of coaches. I've been trying to fight it for over 3 days, gargling it with alcohol. No result. So if I want to get to the summit without letting the whole team down…June 23 we descended to Chilas. It took us 4 days to climb up, and now within 12 hours we lost 3 km. By the end of the day some of us had cramps in calves. Besides we've been having problems with electric power. And when on June 20 our converter burnt down we were left with no power at all. We managed to send the letters we wrote after the summit only on June 25. We've been reproached that we are slow with news, that the westerners are quicker. Sure, but you see Moro has two phones and a laptop, Lafaille has a phone and a laptop, Inaci has a phone and a laptop, I don't know about Viesturs. As for me, I went and ask about sending some information - to send one photo is $10, I don't have this. As for Kazakhs, they have their own obligations - first of all they are sending everything to their own websites. But now we settled everything. We arrived in BC June 1, and on June 17 and 18 we were already on the summit. I daresay it's an excellent result. Moro with his company arrived in BC May 31, but hasn't yet fulfilled his program. But I don't have anything against these guys.
But all my rich experience tells me that many want to be heroes, but only Soviet people can show team results. Strictly speaking, out of 3600m of fixed ropes, 3150m belong to our group of 9 (more then half of it belongs to the first group). Besides we left Camp 4 (7400m) for them. And speaking about speed, Urubko (after returning back) climbed from 7400m to the summit in 3,5 hours. So our coach Ilyinskiy has something to be proud of.
But not everything went smoothly. Damir Molgachev had to turn back to camp 4 because of the threat of frostbites. A day later he made a second attempt to reach the summit. But got very sick and had to think about saving his life. Instead of 1 day of descent it got him 2 on the limit of human resources. These two days he spent with Gerlinde Kaltebrunner and Inaci. I think we'll hear Gerlinde's name in future. She impressed me by her easy behavior at the altitude. Best regards to everyone.

(1.07.2003)
"Karakorum-2003" Ukrainian Expedition.
Vladimir Pestrikov reports from Scardu:
"We arrived in Scarda today, planning to stay here for 1 day, buy all the necessary stuff and leave on jeeps for Ascole the day after tomorrow. The road there is still functioning. In Scardu we are staying in "Concordia" hotel on the bank of Ind river. We are almost alone here. Only somewhere in "Shangri-La" hotel the Kazakh climbers are resting after Nanga-Parbat. Our doctor visited them. We are all feeling well. I'll try to send you some photo, though at the moment we have problems with satellite connection.
Today Shura Lavrinenko (from Odessa) has his Birthday, he turned 35. We drank 1,5 liters for his health (in a Muslim country!). Send please our best wishes to him via internet as well!

Scardu
Lavrinenko

 

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