The material is prepared
by Mountain. RU.
Photos of Petersburg climbers are
given by Herman Andreev (Saint Petersburg).
By preparation of a material it is used
including the information of the book “ Climbers of Northern Capital
”, in co-ordination with the edition
Solo on Pobeda peak in
1978
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Massif of Pobeda peak from South Inylchek
glacier.
Photo: Mountain. RU
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In connection with especially "warm"
China-Soviet relations at the end of 70th - the beginning of 80th years
the area of Pobeda peak was closed by frontier guards for any campaigns
and ascents.
However during this period - in 1978
- a tourist Eugeny Zavyalov from Petersburg made a solo ascent on Pobeda
peak going round the frontier guards.
By this moment Eugeny Zavyalov already
had solid experience both in mountaineering, and in tourism. Therefore
his decision to try to summit Pobeda peak was very risky on the one
hand, but proved from the point of view of his physical and tactical
preparation, and also his experience of solo ascents and ascents on
"7-thousand" mountains.
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Eugeny Zavyalov
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Zavyalov Eugeny Gennadievich
was born on January, 28, 1944.
In the childhood went in for sports
a lot. For the first time he went to the mountains when he was 14 (tourist
campaign through passes), and was seriously engaged in mountaineering
when he was 22 years, being to that moment the master of sports on boxing.
In the beginning of 70th years he
summited all "7-thousand" mountains in Pamir (Lenina peak, Korzhenevskoy
and Communism peak).
In the middle of 70th
years, working as the instructor on a camp site of the Ministry of Defence
in settlement Tamga (southern bank of Issyk Kul), he used an opportunity
to train and make ascents in the area of Terskey - Alatau (including
solos on peaks Dzhigit (5170m), Dzhety-Oguz, Festival (4500m), Slonenok
(Little elephant) (4726m). During his work in the camp "Issyk" near
Alma-Ata Eugeny had opportunity to train and make ascents on the summits
of Zailiysky Alatau (peaks Abaya (4010m), Komsomol (4376m). In 1976
he soloed peak of Nansen (5697m), situated already in the forbidden
frontier zone, in Southern Inylchek glacier, near to its snout, just
in 40-50 km from the foot of Pobeda peak.
The data of the ascent made by
Eugeny Zavjalov on Pobeda peak in the summer of 1978.
The way on Inylchek glacier should
run around the frontier guards, therefore the travel on the road through
settlement Inylchek (Cultcenter) and Maida-Adyr frontier post was impossible.
He chose the following variant: from the merge of the rivers Ottuk and
Sarydzhaz (through this place it usually pass the way if to get in area
from Karakol through Chon-Ashu pass) not downwards, but Sarydzhaz upstream
and further passing Sarydzhaz ridge (Tjuz pass), descending in a direction
to the snout of Inylchek glacier. By the way, via this way the expedition
of pioneers, who first summited Pobeda peak in 1956 and some other previous
expeditions to this area, went.
The weight of his rucksack on start
was more than 50 kg.
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The Track under the foot of Pobeda peak.
Zvezdochka (Asterisk) glacier, August 2002.
Photo: Mountain. RU
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On July, 29 - beginning of
trekking from the confluence of the river Ottuk in Sarydzhaz (2700m)
upward on Sarydzhaz and further upward on its left inflow - the river
Tjuz in a direction of Tjuz pass. Distance - about 50 km.
On August, 3 - Pass Tjuz (4000m,
1B), Sarydzhaz ridge. Descent from the pass leading in a valley of the
Inylchek river (2800m), flowing hardly upper from the same glacier.
On August, 5 - the first trip
on the glacier. From here up to the foot of Pobeda peak is about 45-50
km, but the way turns out more longly because of constant dodging on
the glacier.
On August, 7 - the place of
the confluence Northern Inylchek in Southern Inylchek (Mertsbahera lake).
On August, 10 - Merge of glaciers
Zvezdochka (Asterisk) and Southern Inylchek (4000m).
On August, 11 - The ice falls
of Zvezdochka glacier was climbed; then- full carry under the
route on the plateau (4450m) under northern slopes of Pobeda peak.
He chose the route of the first climbers - from the north through
the "pillow".
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The "Pillow" of Pobeda peak. Beginning of
the route of the first climbers in 1956. At the left - the northern
walls of East Pobeda, over the foreground - the ice falls of Zvezdochka
glacier.
Photo: Mountain. RU
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On August, 12 - Full carry
up.
On August, 13 - A trip under
North face of East Pobeda over Chon-Teren pass with the purpose of search
some products had left by the previous expeditions.
On August, 14-16 - Days of
rest on the plateau under the route (4450m).
On August, 17-22 - Summit
trip. Summited the top 7349m on August, 22 at 14.00 and beginning of
descent.
On August, 23 - night and
morning - descent to the plateau under the route, then the further descent
to the valley.
On August, 24, evening - returning
to the “green zone” at the glacier’s Southern Inylchek snout (natural
boundary Chon-Tash, 2800m). Thus the descent from the top of Pobeda
peak up to Chon-Tash took hardly more than 2 day. Usually this way needs
not less than 5-6 days.
On August, 26 - Meeting with
the frontier guards in Maida-Adyr.
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Are standing: Leonid Zamyatnin, Vladimir
Balyberdin, Vladimir Shopin, Are sitting: Andrey Walter, Eugeny
Zavyalov
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The trophies from the top (portrait
of Mao Tsedun and the Chinese pendant) were confiscated by frontier
guards and stored in a museum of this frontier district. These subjects
had been lifted on the top of Pobeda peak by Chinese who managed to
ascend on top from the southern face in the summer of 1977 when they
had been organized the big expedition (still unique for today from that
face) on Tomur - such Pobeda peak is named on-Chinese.
From Nikolay Totmjanin's letter (Saint
Petersburg, the fivefold “Snow Leopard”):
“About the solo made by a tourist
on Pobeda peak I heard in 1984 from frontier guards in Maida-Adyr. We
were interested at frontier guards, whether Chinese climbed Pobeda peak.
The ensign we communicated with,
told, that Chinese on mountain were and there was a proof of that fact
- the subjects which the Chinese climbers left at the top. On our question,
where at frontier guards these subjects appeared, he told, that they
took them at the tourist who without the permission penetrated in the
frontier zone and climbed the mountain.”
