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TRANGO TOWER. New route on the NW Face

The team:

The Climbers:

Technical leader Vladimir Mogila

Alexej Zhilin

Alexandre Lavrinenko

Vitaly Jarichevsky

All are from Odessa, Ukraine

The technical Data:

6.07.03 The BC was installed (altitude of BC - 4000m) The weather is unsettle (it’s snowing, there is a fog, thick clouds)

up to 13.07 Acclimatizing. Installed 350m of the rope. From July, 13 the team uses two portaledges

18.07 Everything goes right way, they climbed 18 pitches

21.07 The weather is fine. They are on half-way…

22.07 Made two pitches more and cornice

29.07 The weather is getting worse. It remains seven pitches (280m)

31.07 Three days of very bad weather. Today they climbed 1,5 pitches (extremely difficult because of wandering ice on the wall).

2.08 Summit! (on 20^th days of climbing)… They climbed this challenging route! high of wall 2000m, slope grade 80⁰. The descent was via this very route

P.S. As it will find out later the guys hadn't summited, managing to make it within 150m of the summit.

3.08 The weather is awful. It’s snowing hard.

4.08 At 17.30 local time the guys returned BC. The descent took them 2,5 days under very bad weather condition: upper 5000m it was snowing hard, under – it was downpour…

Style: capsule

During the ascent the team used perforator HILTI where it was necessary to bolt.

In the upper part of the route they spent the nights in the tent HANNAH.

All of them had crampons for the upper part and for the descent.

TRANGO TOWER. New route on the NW Face