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Check out the previous story from Sergey Bogomolov: Ama Dablam (6856 m)-1994 8125m-Nanga-Parbat 8047m-Broad Peak

Author: Sergey Bogomolov, Saratov
Translated by Anna Samodelko, Moscow
Photo from http://www.russianclimb.com

 

 

Sports autobiography of Sergey Bogomolov

 

1971 I was engaged in mountaineering.

1978 I became a member of rescue group. I have lead more than 20 rescue operations, and rescued more than 10 people.

1980 I executed the specification “the Master of sports of the USSR”.

1982 The USSR Championship - "Locomotive" team, traverse of Chiringyad, 5B category, first ascent - 7th place.

1983 I became an instructor - methodologist of 1^st category, gave more than 1000 educational days on trainings of climbers.
IMC "Pamir": - Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya;
- traverse of Kalinin Peak - Communism Peak, 6-category, second ascent;
- Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya;
- rescue operation: a descent from 6900m of Lenin Peak via the "broom" with two Czechs with pneumonia.

1984

IMC "Pamir": - E. Korzhenevskoy Peak, Southern-West Face Ridge, 5B, first ascent (Markelov Â. + 7)
- Communism Peak via Hohlov route (from a plateau on a plateau)
- rescue operation: descent from 6900m altitude of Communism Peak with a Czech (Jury Shvejda) had a concussion.

USSR Championship. I was a member of a team of IMC. Revolution Peak. Because of an ice-fall accident from the south, I got crisis of a basin.

1985

Join Soviet-American expedition on Pobeda Peak via Vazha Pshavel route, 5B category.

1986

American - Soviet expedition on McKinley Peak, via a west rib route.

IMC "Pamir": - E. Korzhenevskoy Peak, via Southern Face ridge (Romanov's route), 5B category.

- Communism Peak (via Nekrasov's route), 5B category;
- E. Korzhenevskoy Peak (via Tsetlin route), 5A category;
- Lenin Peak, (via Razdelnaya), 5A category;
- rescue operation: Hohlov Peak, 5B category, (in the two men team with my brother), a help to a team leaded by Dusharin.

1987

Selection ascents for the second Soviet Himalayan expedition:

- E. Korzhenevskoy Peak (via Tsetlin route)
- Communism Peak (via Hohlov Peak);
- Communism Peak (via Hohlov Peak);

1988

Selection ascents for the second Soviet Himalayan expedition:

- Lenin Peak (via Lipkin's rocks);
- Pobeda Peak, East Summit, from Chon-Teren Col.
- Traverse of Peak Pobeda - Peak of Military topographers.

1989

The Second Soviet Himalayan expedition:

- Kanchenjunga, Main Summit, West Face (via a couloir between Average and Main Summits)

IMC "Khan - Tengri": Khan - Tengri Peak, North Face, via a shoulder of Chapaev Peak, 5B category;

1990

Kazakh expedition - Pobeda Peak, North Face, in winter, 02.02.1990, the unique ascent, (S.Bogomolov, V.Hrishchatyj, G.Bogomolov, S. Ovcharenko, G.Mihaylov summit the top).

Selection ascents for the Russian expedition on Cho-Oyu:

- E. Korzhenevskoy Peak (via Tsetlin route), in two-men team;
- E. Korzhenevskoy Peak (via Budanov route);
- Communism Peak (via Peak Dushanbe).

1991

Selection ascents for the Russian expedition on Cho-Oyu:

- Khan - Tengri Peak, Southern-West Face;
- Pobeda Peak (via Vazha Pshavela Peak);
- Cho-Oyu, 8201m, Southern Face, first ascent.

Rescue operation: descent with Jury Grebenjuk from under the top during which he was lost.

1993

Russian - British expedition: Dhaulagiri, 8167m, North Face, first ascent, the nominee on “ Gold ice-axe ”

1994

Russian expedition: Àmà Dablam, 6800m, Southern Face, first ascent, the team became the champion of the CIS (S.Bogomolov, V. Bashkirov, S.Golubtsov, D.Botov)

1995

Expedition of republic Ossetia - Alania:

- Everest, 8848m, via North saddle. III place in the championship of Russia (7 climbers from 22 summit the top)

1996

Kuzbass Expedition on Makalu, 8463m, North-East Face ridge. III place in the championship of Russia (10 climbers from 22 summit the top).

1997

Kuzbass Expedition on Lkhodse, 8511m, West Face. All of 11 climbers summit the top.

- Complex rescue operation: descent with V.Bashkirov from under the top (first alone, then three men together). V.Bashkirov did not reached the IV camp and died.

2001

Kazakh expedition:
- Hidden Peak, 8068m, North Face, 13.08.01.
- Gasherbroom, 8035m, West Face, 20.08.01 (8 climbers from 10 persons summit the top). I was the first Russian summit these two tops. The team became the champion of the CIS made a doublet of two tops.

2002

Russian - Dutch expedition:
- Shishapangma, Central Top, 8012m, North-East Face ridge, 16.05.02 (S.Bogomolov, O.Nasedkin, V.Belous, M.Ershova).
- Shishapangma, Main Top, 8046m, East Face ridge, 24.05.02, first ascent, (S.Bogomolov - V.Olejnik), the second doublet of two tops.

2003

- International Kazakhstan expedition: Nanga - Parbat, 8126m, 18.06.03
- Broud Peak, 8047m, 17.07.03. It was the third doublet of the mountains above 8000m.

In total I have accomplished more than 300 ascents, more then 60 of them were of 5B category according to Russian classification, and more than 20 of them were first ascents. I have summit 26 mountains above 7000m in the USSR and 12 mountains above 8000m.

I have been called by “ the Snow leopard ” title four times.