Mikhail PERSHIN
Interview for Mountain.RU

When were you engaged in mountaineering? What was the first summit you ascended?

Mestiya Peak, 1B in 1988. It was in mountaineering camp “Ullu-Tau”.

How many ascents of 5- 6-category have you made?

Not so many. Perhaps about 30 ascents.

Would You name your most serious ascents?

Two ascents of 6B-category for Ak-Su in 1996: the first one was the first ascent via the centre of the bastion of North Face with Alexander Klenov as a technical leader and five other climbers; the second one was on the rope with Igor Nefedov in winter in December 1998.

Peak Slesova, July 1993, first ascent with Klenov and four “Bears” .All four other climbers had the name: Misha. (Misha-such name the Russians call a bear).

To climb Peak of Free Korea in winter is very serious but it is not such high-class ascent as “Bigwall” one. Pamiro-Alay is my favorite mountain range. I’ve been there for 7 times.

What is your level in free climbing (on the French scale)?

I’ve never onsighted the routes more difficult then 7a. This is the limit of my potentialities, I suppose. From time to time I climb in Yastrebinoye lake area, Kareliya. I enjoy climbing there and I consider that place is perfect for mountaineering trainings. The relief there is real like in mountains in contrast to our old Ural’s rocks.

What relief do you like more?

Everything: mixed, ice, rocks. I prefer the real walls: long, iced, complicated.

What are your favourite mountain ranges?

Ala-Archa, Ak-Su, Elbrus area. I like the mountains in France, but not so much.

In your opinion, who are the most outstanding people in the history of world mountaineering? Why? Name them, please.

Irving and Melory and all their company. They ascended Nanga Parbat dressed only in hats and golfs in the last century. And the main thing they climbed the tops as they wanted. Modern climbers aren’t so bright comparing with them.

Have you ever made solo-ascent? Where? What is your attitude to solo-ascents in mountains?

I’ve climbed solo in France. It was a small peak near Petit Dru. I like it and I consider the less climbers the team have the higher quality the mountaineering have. I very well concern to solo-climbers. To make a good showing in mountaineering means to make the complicated ascent by two men team.

What books about mountaineering, about mountains have impressed you most of all?

“Training of the rock-climber” by Piratinsky ;)

If seriously, " Crystal horizon " by Messner and “ The ascent for the forgotten world " by McCinos made a huge impression on me in due time.

Do you have a hobby not connected with mountains?

I adore Adventure races and to make an adventurous travelling on jeeps when roads are impassable.

How much time do you usually spend in mountains?

Now it is not enough, one and a half months, but during the period from 1990 to 1995 I was spending there for 7 months a year.

Do you have training in off-seasons? How many times a week? What are they usually like?

When I was engaged in mountains the rock-climbing training was the most important: 5-6 times a week during for 1,5-2 hours; one day a week- 15-30km racing skis or cross-country in the same volumes if there in not season for skis. But the most important thing is rock-climbing. And the best trainings are the ascents of 4 or 5 categories for the decision of training problems, especially – problem (for my level) seldom climbed routes of 4 category. It is better than any running and rock-climbing.

In your opinion does participation in The Russian Mountaineering Championship mean the additional stimulus to finish a route when it would seem your strengths are nearing to end?

I do not consider so, an ascent is an ascent in any event.

What are the positive and negative features of competitions on mountaineering in your opinion?

In general I consider this is a positive phenomenon as a whole which develops the climber as a sportsman and advances mountaineering even at all idiocy of some positions. The purpose of mountaineering firstly had been just simple ascent on simply high tops until all well known high summits were climbed (All was interested in first ascents). And besides then the wall routes even were not taken under consideration. Then the purpose of climbing became the ascent the most complicated routes on the known preferably high mountains (first ascent). And then the prevail goal became the same, but made in the Alpine style, preferably in the winter, moreover in two men team or solo-ascent as Babanov (the style of ascents). What will become the following goal? And would it be on the whole? The same also will be. The top of development of mountaineering is the ascent of two-climbers or solo-ascent on a cold high wall, for example, the West Face of Makalu or the North Face of Jannu. If somebody could climb there in the two men team, moreover in the winter…. The two men ascents are perspective in complex conditions without any preliminary working it up, hiring helicopters etc. I think, that is the most complex in mountaineering.

What about your plans for the future? I mean for your old age not for the nearest one or five years?

On an old age? Well, when I climb all I want and if I stay safe and sound I will sit in the big warm house and just enjoy living. There will be so warmly, degrees 28. There will be the photos of super-walls and all friends in black and red frames. And I will be sitting near a huge fireplace looking at everything through fashionable glasses.

Well, and tell me your plans for the nearest future.

It isn’t necessary to climb on the super-walls every year. You would like to take a time-out and to be engaged in something else in parallel. And it does not weaken you at all. For the present moment I’m most of all interested in races. Though the mountaineering has the much more risk level then the race. I love the nature at all in any form. I love the Crimea - after climbing I like drinking a little of vine on a beach with friends or to drive by jeep to the nearest beautiful wood and have a good time with a good company.

About races.

Races remind a bit little of a big ascent. Climbers most of all are adapted for this purpose physically and psychologically. They should be trained a little in orientation, cycling, rowing, and going on high-speed long tracks.

What advice can you give to the young climbers wishing to reach a high level of ascents in mountains?

I would advise them to find either the good company or school or the real experienced leader. It is impossible to make up something on one’s own. The mountaineering is an enough complex technical kind of sports.

What companies render to you sponsor's support?

AlvoTitanium in mountaineering. COALCO AG- in racing. But in general it is necessary to change to self-financing to earn money by ourselves. When the sponsors give money you have a bad desire to boast of your ascent. But if you spent on the expedition your own earned money you can always tell the truth: “A, that Mountain was so-so, but this Mountain was really cool!”

If sponsors render you, all your Mountain will seem as cool ones