The interview were prepared by Anna Piunova, www.Mountain.RU
Translated by Anna Samodelko

CV

Was born on the 20th of January, 1963 in Dvurechensk, Sverdlovsk region. He graduated the Ural Polytechnical Institute. Master of Sport. He was awarded with "Piolet d'Or" in 1998 (Makalu, West Face) and also the Order of the Courage.

The ascents
2002 Everest (without oxygen)
2001 Lhotse Middle, new route (nominated for Piolet d'Or)
2000 Peak Khan-Tengry, normal route
1999 Thalay Sagar, new route; Peak Pobeda (as a guide for Japan climbers)
1998 Everest
1997 Makalu, new route on the West Face - "Piolet d'Or".
1995 Peak Pobeda
1994 Peak Khan-Tengry, The North Face
1993 Peak Pobeda from the West face (with Yokikhiko Shinagava, Japan)

What about your age, the birthplace, family, children?

I was born on January 20, 1963 in Dvurechensk villiage of Sverdlovsk area. I am married and have two children. My son is 17 and my daughter is 15 years old.

When were you engaged in mountaineering?

At university I was fond of tourism, and liked going to ski campaigns. I started to be engaged in mountaineering in 1986, and seriously - in 1988.

What was the first summit you ascended?

Bolshaya Marka (Big Stamp), 1B. It was in mountaineering camp “Dombay”.

What are your favourite mountain ranges?

The Himalayas and Northern Tien Shan.

In Russia they tend to make the bigwall ascents under 40 years then to make high-altitude ascents. What do you think about that?

Not only in Russia. The similar tendency exists all over the world.

What ascents have made by the Russian climbers for the past five years do you consider as the most “modern”?

There have been a lot of good powerful ascents with high sports results. All of them are many-sided, and were made in the different styles that’s why it’s difficult to prefer. Alexander Klenov keeps doing the ascents in his own way. We with the team of high-altitude climbers - do the ascents in our own way. I think that the expeditions leaded by Klenov are all very sports, and all his ascents are the achievements what develop the Russian mountaineering. But in high-altitude class, from the point of view of modern lines, perhaps, I can mention only Makalu.

And what are the modern lines like now?

These are reduction of multi-members expeditions. Small mobile groups from 2 to 4 climbers, the refusal of using the supplimentary oxygen, the technical complication of a route. The ascents that are more difficult in a technical class are being made in higher mountains and the high-altitude climbers are ascending on the technically complicated routes.

At the present stage what "object" for ascent are you interested in?

There are a lot of interesting ones. Moreover, many of them have already been planned: Everest from North Face, Everest from Southern-West Face, Jannu from North Face, Traverse Lhotse-Everest.

Makalu

How do you appreciate the expedition to Makalu briefly?

It was very complicated ascent in spirit of modern evolution: a very difficult route at high altitude without oxygen, without porters. It’s the ascent we all should strive to ascend in such style. To a great regret, we lost there two our friends Salavat Habibullin and Igor Bugachevsky. Mountains are mountains. And no one expedition is insured from accidents. But basically, I consider that the style and the tactics were chosen rightly. It was the most complex ascent in my life and I hope very much that it will not be any ones more difficult. It was really very hard, very hard physically.

Obviously, the mountaineering cannot develop that as it was earlier (with trade-union places, instructors and the whole system of State Financing, etc.) In your opinion, how is the mountaineering in Russia going to develop for the nearest years?

For last 10 years the mountaineering in Russia has grown old equally for 10 years, accordingly that fact that the middle age of climbers has risen on the same number. We have lost the whole generation of young sportsmen. The club system is necessary for development, as in all advanced countries. I do not know as it will be farther, but the forecast is pessimistic for the time being. .

Khan-Tengri

Name your most serious ascents.

Makalu, Thalay Sagar, Everest, Lhotse Middle,

Khan-Tengri via the crescent, Khan-Tengri, North Face.

What is Your level in free climbing (on the French scale)?

6a and 6b.

In your opinion, who are the most outstanding people in the history of world mountaineering? Why? Name them, please.

Messner was the man, who forestalled his contemporaries. It was him who first started to make such things at that time, which nobody did not raise at: the solo-ascent of Everest without oxygen in off-season, the ascents of all mountains above eight thousand meters.

Kris Bonington: a million new routes, a million new ideas, innovations, he was from those who broke the walls

Have you ever made solo-ascent? Where?

I’ve climbed solo a little on rather low mountains.

What is your attitude to solo-ascents in mountains?

In my opinion, the solo-ascent is always on a step or on two ones heavier than the ascent in a group. I have a great esteem for this way of ascent. I would like to climb solo, but I have no opportunity to do it. I have to choose and allow myself the only expedition a year.

How much time do you usually spend in mountains?

Three months. One mountain a year. My work doesn’t allow me to have more time for expeditions. I have to be present at work, to provide my family...

What about your unsuccessful ascents? Have you been injured in mountains? Or have you felt sick?

I’ve had some injuries but not serious illness. I broke my leg, tore cords and was carried down while the Russian Championship in 1990.

I consider the expedition to Annapurna as unsuccessful. The route was quite right and I regret that we couldn’t summit it.

Have you ever made the borderline ascent?

I hope there haven’t been any ones. I have always had a reserve of strength.

Have you ever moved to the line so close when the tragedy seemed inevitable?

The climbers, who ascend difficult routes are always close to the line. And I find difficulty in replying when I was farther or closer to it.

Could you avoid the situations close to emergency?

There were many such situations. And often as it can happen with any climbers it does not depend on your actions at all.

Do you have training in off-seasons? What are they usually like?

My training are go jogging, swimming in swimming pool, climbing.

What about the plans for the future? I mean for your old age not for the nearest one or five years?

I would remain healthy and sports as it is possible longer, lead an active way of life. It isn’t important in what field it can be: the mountaineering, surfing or mountain skiing.

Your personal nearest plans?

Attempt to climb the Jannu North Face.

What advice can you give to the young climbers wishing to reach a high level of ascents in mountains?

While the present time of professionals, those climbers who want to reach the high results in mountaineering should be engaged only in it. It is very difficult to combine, as for me, for example, work of the clerk at office and climbing activity. The times of climber-amateurs have passed. I don’t know many people manage to do it. In Ekaterinburg, perhaps, only Klenov. There isn’t anybody I know. .

Do you have a hobby not connected with mountains?

As for me I have a lot of hobbies connected to an active way of life. In the winter - mountain skiing, snowboard, in the summer - surfing, diving.

I have participated in multisports extreme races.