Report on "Festival Khan Tengri 2000"

Khan Tengri (7010 m) Photo by Oleg Malishev

In honor of the second millennium, the Central Sports Club of the Army and Asia Tourism organized the first international festival for climbers and trekkers "Festival Khan Tengri 2000" from the 6th of August to the 27th of August 2000 in the Central Tian Shan Mountains.

About 520 sportsmen from 30 countries attended the "Festival Khan Tengri 2000" including many famous international climbers. These included Simone Moro from Italy, Alexander Lvov from Poland, Valery Babanow and Vladimir Karataev from Russia. Fifty three professional climbers and two hundred and twenty seven amateurs tried to reach the top of Khan Tengri (7010m) of whom only seventy nine reached the summit Khan Tengri.

During the festival there were a series of climbing events intended to test the skill, stamina and courage of the participants. These were:

1. Speed ascent to the top of Khan Tengri.
This was the first time the North face of Khan Tengri has been attempted and took place on the 22nd of August starting at 6.30am. Seven climbers participated in the speed ascent.
First place was taken by Denis Urubco of the Kazakh Military Sports Club, North Base Camp - Summit (7 hours 40 min); North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (12 hours 21 min).
Second came Nikolay Chervonenco also of the Kazakh, Military Sports Club, North Base Camp - Summit (9 hours 45 min);North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (16 hours 00 min).
In third place was Andrey Puchinin of Kyrgyzstan, North Base Camp - Summit (12 hours 00 min); North Base Camp - Summit - North Base Camp (19 hours 02 min).

2. Paragliding from the summit of Khan Tengri.
Because of bad weather Vladimir Karataev jumped from the second camp (5600m) on the 19th of August and landed on the North Inilchek glacier.

3. Climbing the North Face of Khan Tengri.
A team of Kazakh alpinists climbed the previously unconquered North Face of Khan Tengri. The ascent took eight days due to the danger from avalanches.

4. Solo climb
Valery Babanov attempted to climb the North Face solo a feat never before achieved but was forced to abandon his attempt due to bad weather and the danger of avalanches.

5. Descent from the summit of Khan Tengri
A Slovenian team tried the descent from the summit of Khan Tengry, but because of the avalanche danger the team descent took place from the Chapaev path, (3rd camp, 5900m) by skiing to the South Inilchek Glacier.

6. Ascent of the Pobeda Peak
This season nobody was able to climb Pobeda Peak (7439m) because of very deep snow, high winds and extreme cold. A team of Kazakh climbers had to abandon their attempt on the summit of Pobeda Peak only 400 m from the summit but were forced to turn back due to attrocious weather conditions.

On 26th of August the winners were rewarded with a banquet, and Kazakh national games at the main base camp of Ak Kol, followed by a disco for all participants. The festival was a big step forward in the development of Kazakh climbing and opening up their mountainous regions to international teams of climbers.

With kind wishes Rinat Khaibullin and management of Asia Tourism.

ASIA TOURISM Ltd
city and adventure tours in Central Asia