Olga Bibik. Impressions after World Cup in Birmingham / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Olga Bibik. Impressions after World Cup in Birmingham

Let's start with weather:) It decided not make us happy this year: the wind, cold. I did not expect that. It was too cold in a gym. Temperature was negative 6, each of us was wearing two jackets, a down parka, but English people were in tee-shorts, children were without caps dressed only in vests...
Russian mothers would just be shocked at that! I immediately wanted to run and save these kids from imminent cold :)

The competitions were led according new UIAA format in three stages with qualification (best 20 climbers), semifinal (6 climbers) and final. It's really difficult to qualify for the final and become one of the six climbers. There are only four problems and without ceremony you can fail if one of the problems is no go. Quite so Julia Abramchuk met with a slight mishap when she could not make a very specific jump at one of the lines: we had never jumped in such manner before even at trainings. There is no bouldering wall structure at us to make such jumps.
Well, the main task is to get in semifinal.

Final

There are four problems and the rotation period is 6 minutes in all the rounds. One climber, instead of crowd, as that was earlier, starts. In the final round all climbers will finish the problems in turn before they move on to the next problem. All competitors will finish their attempts on boulder number one before the attempts on boulder number two are started, etc.

It is much better for spectators, the competitions became to be more entertaining, but it seems to me the common viewing would be more actual. Really, they can slice 10 minutes from schedule of each problem.
And if a climber has made a successful attempt, the next competitor follows immediately. That means that all the time you have to be ready to start and it's not clear when to put on your rock shoes.

As a whole, the new system is quite good, but it needs to be refined.

New system is psychologically more intense. Emilie Abgrall did not remove her headphones at all. All the time you fall into abeyance: your will start now, in a minute or is six minutes.

Shortcomings: we have no chances to see men finals, the final rounds are run simultaneously for men and women. Their problems were by the way similar to ours. Rather hard problems!

I do not exactly understand the English style, they offered us too many reliefs, there were two start crimpers at the first problem, a big "roll" and finish on a "skull". That was all! No holds any more. Starting I thought: "Where is anything to hold?" First it seemed that it would be unreal to send it, but then everything went OK.

(Anna Piunova's comment: hereafter my favorite paragraph, read further):
I have weak hands. I take even a "sphere" like positive edges. My most unloved holds - round, they put me through hoops. But Julia on the contrary takes them with a wet finger. I can not understand how to invigorate my hands by exercise.
I think I need to hang on a log long time. At the last problems there were such good positive edges that I even did not take no notice of how I climbed them.

My general impression: I liked the problems with many reliefs, a big corner of hanging, but due to the modules it was body workout climbing and the overhang was felt wrong. There were lots jumps, almost on each problem were dynamical moves. For example, Kilian did not like such problems and told that he does not like such style at all :)

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