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Photos Klaus Fengler

Mixed Bigwall

„Ban zone“ M9, 287 Meters,
First ascent of the Staubbachfall, in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

First ascent of the Staubbachfall by Robert Jasper and Markus Stofer,
In 5 days, February 2006

Grading: M9 E5,

Warning: This route is objective dangerous!
To evaluate the objective dangers is nearly impossible!
Climb only on a very cold and wind still day and regard the sun influence on midday!
Rappelling after the 7 pitch is difficult.

***

Being one of the highest and most spectacular Waterfalls of the Alps the Staubbachfall was famous long before Ice climbing was being invented.

Already in 1799 when Johann Wolfgang von Goethe traveled to Lauterbrunnen he was fascinated by the beauty and majesty of this Waterfall that cascades 287 meters in free fall down into the Lauterbrunner valley. Goethe captured this impression in his Poem:

“Gesang der Geister über den Wassern” in English: “Song of the Spirits above the Waters”

The Lauterbrunner vally was always in my mind as a jewel in regards of ice climbing and the still unclimbed Staubbachfall always drew my attention but seemed impossible to climb.
Seeing it again and again the idea of a mixed bigwall grew in my mind.

After a first try which ended unsuccessful after five pitches and drilling two bolts our drilling machine soared down into the valley accompanied by our courses.

During the next days in this route we fought with overhanging crumbling rock. The absolute highlight was the “dirt 10 pitch” a 30 meter traverse (only M7+) but the dirtiest one can imagine and only climbable if the rotten slate with its sulphur deposits was frozen.

When we reached the ice balkonies we left with” mixed feelings” our heavy equipment and rappelled off – we know how easily dreams can melt away- but to climb up the route again and again with all this equipment was pure torture.

Returning next day at six in the morning we thought it’s a nightmare the wind blew the waterfall 50 meters up the valley and the water run down on our route- although we tried climbing was impossible and wet to the toe we gave up and tried to save our gear from above.

We had to cross barriers with ban signs: no trespassing- Base jumping forbidden!
It was due to ice fall impossible to save the gear but we opened the last pitch this way.
Few days later we started again it was cold and we tried the complete ascent of the whole route.

With the light of our head lamps we climbed the ice and after 2ohours we already reached the mixed parts when suddenly the exit icicle in the size of a truck passed us. It felt as if the whole waterfall was collapsing at once. We reached the last pitch this day but without ice this was a dead end road. Our rappel down nourished the rumors in Lauterbrunnen from where one could see the flashing lights of our headlamps.

When we returned with the photographer Klaus Fengler and having climbed for the shout all Great pitches it was only that dammed last one missing- the ice was wet- I had to do it and only wanted to climb these few last meters up this icicle and than down again to the belay- Markus lowered me down and as I reached the Band the icicle hit it the same moment just beside me. It’s a wonder I’m still alive and a clear sign that we spent too much time in this Ban zone.

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