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Piolet d'Or nominees. Russian version
On November 11-27 2005 Mountain.Ru conducted an opinion poll during for two weeks and lined up about 800 votes.Everybody could take only one vote. List of ascents for voting:
Slovaks, two-man team, a new line on Trango Tower, SW Face, Pakistan, alpine style ascent Steve House and Vince Anderson, Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat, alpine style ascent Two young Canadians, alpine-style first ascent of the North Face of Mt. Bradley, Alaska (2775m, Аlaska Ruth Gorge) Melungtse North Face (attempt, Totmyanin-Koshelenko) Broad peak, two-man team (Urubko-Samoylov), new line, alpine style ascent Khan Tengri North Face, two-man team (Shabalin-Tukhvatullin), alpine style ascent Pobeda Peak, full solo traverse (Gleb Sokolov) Angel Falls - Expedition to the lost world, Venezuela, British team and Alexander Klenov Nose and Freerider free by Tommy Caldwell: one day ascent Others
*** As it usually is the list of ascents - potential competitors of Piolet d'Or turned out diversified: practically all tendencies and styles of modern mountaineering were set out. Therefore the voice of every voter depended on personal preferences of style and subjective understanding of modern mountaineering: high-speed ascent El Capitan, Pobeda solo climb or Rupal Face's conquest by the two-man team in alpine style. However, though the first vote was a double high-speed climb El Capitan for a day (Is that was Max Kostrov’s vote indeed? :), but further Pobeda Solo Traverse done by Gleb Sokolov became the leader and strongly gained a foothold during all the head count. The first place. Further with a wide margin:
• Khan Tengri North Face, Tien Shan, two-man team (Shabalin - Tukhvatullin), • Angels Falls, Venezuela, free climbing. All these stylistically different ascents conditionally have the common motto - They are Russian! Even in view of only one Russian Alexander Klenov joined a team climbed Angels Falls, it's all the same they were even partially our walls, routes, people. The main pretendents to win this year Steve House and Vince Anderson brilliantly climbed Central Pillar Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat (8125m, 8 days, without supplementary oxygen, VII, M5/5.9, WI4, 4100m), in alpine style got obviously fell behind. On all the route Steve and Vince arranged only eight stations, on other pitches they moved simultaneously or unroped. The greatest difficulty was to fix the last camp at 7500m. During the ascent Steve slimmed eight kilograms. Further on the list: Tommy Caldwell (Nose + Freerider combination, El-Capitan, One day ascent: 65 pitches up to F8b + for a day), then Trango Tower (near Azeem Ridge) alpine style ascent, attempt to summit Melungtse (Buhler-Totmyanin-Koshelenko) and Bradley alpine style ascent. The last from the abovementioned (Bradley, Alaska) got only five votes (less than a percent of all the voices). It is less by several times than Melungtse attempt (!) (by the way, among the team-mates - Totmyanin and Koshelenko- previous Piolet d'Or winners).
It seems lack of the information affected: on May, 20-22 two young Canadians Louis-Philippe Menard and Maxime Turgeon made an alpine-style first ascent of the North Face of Mt. Bradley, Alaska (2775m, Аlaska Ruth Gorge), second go (in their first attempt after climbing 900 meters the guys ped a rucksack practically with all gear and had to descend).
By results of voting it is obvious - a healthy patriotism wins. But that's not how it turned out!... Not only we have rooted for the native land.
In spite of the fact that the voting had been organized only on Mountain.Ru Russian Version, extra curious climbers from Britain took an interest in strange Cyrillic letters (Brits are more inquisitive en masse than their colleagues on language over the Atlantic). We were politely asked to tell about the voting in not clear Russian language and explain some questions in more accessible English.
Well, the FIRST place in our voting with a wide margin - Pobeda Peak Solo Traverse done by Gleb Sokolov.
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