Список эталонных маршрутов
 
 
Категория |
Описание |
G1 |
(~F) |
- Bishorn, Pennine Alps, NW Flank, (normal route) G1 (F I 900m)
- Breithorn, Pennine Alps, South Flank (normal route) G1 (F/PD- 40° 350m)
- Galdhöpiggen , Norway , from Juvashytta G1-2 (650m)
- Glittertind , Norway , from Spiterstulen G1 (F/PD- 1350m)
- Hochferner, Zillertal, via Hochfeiler G1-2 (950m)
- Marmolada , Dolomites, West Ridge G1-2 (PD 700m)
- Oberaletschhütte, Bernese Alps, G1
- Rohrbachstein, Bernese Alps, G1
- Similaun, Ötztal, West Ridge (normal route from Similaunhütte) G1-2 (600m)
- Säntis, Central Alps, North Ridge G1-2 (via ferrata 1150m)
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G2 |
(~F+/PD-) |
- Gran Paradiso, Graian Alps, West Flank (normal route) G2-3 (II F/PD- II, II/AI1(35°) 1350m)
- Grosser Möseler, Zillertal, From west via S Ridge (normal route from N) G2-3 (PD- II 1100m)
- Grossvendiger, Hohe Tauern, North route G2 (F+ 1100m)
- Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, NW face (normal route) G2-3 (II PD 45° 1700m)
- Hochfeiler, Zillertal, SW Ridge (normal route) G2 (F/PD- 950m)
- Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Blanc Massif, NW Face (normal route) G2-3 (II PD- 40° 700m)
- Monte Leone, Central Alps, S Ridge (normal route) G2 (F II 700m or 1500m)
- Mount Hood , Cascades, South Side "Palmer Glacier" G2 (II 35° 1600m)
- Store Ringstind, Norway, G2-3 (45° 1320m)
- Store Smørstabbtind, Norway, North Ridge (PD 40° 950m)
- Storebjørn , Norway , from Smørstabbreen via North Flank G2-3 (PD 40-45° 950m)
- Strahlhorn, Pennine Alps, Adler Pass & West Ridge (normal route from Britannia hut) G2 (F+/PD 1150m)
- Watzmann, Bavarian Alps, traverse G2 (II, via ferrata 2500m)
- Wildhorn, Bernese Alps, from Wildhornhütte G2 (1540m)
- Wildstrubel, Bernese Alps, from Lämmernhütte G2 (1000m)
- Zugspitze, Bavarian Alps, NE Ridge (Bavarain normal route via Höllental) G2 (F+ via ferrata C, 2200m)
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G3 |
(~PD) |
- Aiguille d'Argentiére, Mont Blanc Massif, SW side "Milieu Glacier" (normal route) G3 (II PD+ 50° 1200m)
- Aletchorn, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge from Mittelaletschbiwak G3-4 (II PD I-II, 40° 1200m)
- Finsteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, SW Face & NW Ridge (normal route) G3-4 (PD, RUS 2A II,35° 1226m)
- Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, SE Ridge (Südostgrat) G3-4 (PD II 750m)
- Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, via Grünegghorn (normal route) G3-4 (II PD+/AD- 40° III 1200m)
- Grossglockner, Hohe Tauern, Normal Route G3 (PD- 35°, II 1700m/350m)
- Hoher Dachstein, Dachstein, NE Face "Felsensteig & Randkluftsteig" G3 (via ferrata B, II)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, normal route from Rottalsattel G3-4 (II PD+, RUS 2B-3A 40-50°, II 850m)
- Mönch, Bernese Alps, South-East Ridge G3 (II PD+, RUS 2A II, II/AI1(45°) 650m)
- Mount Rainier , Cascades, Emmons Glacier G3 (II 40° 10.000')
- Piz Buin, Silvretta, West Ridge (normal route from Bielerhöhe) G3 (F+ I+ 1280m)
- Piz Palü, Bernina, West Ridge (normal route) G3-4 (F/PD, 40° 950m)
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G4 |
(~PD+/AD-) |
- Aletschhorn, Bernese Alps, Southwest Ridge G4 (PD/PD+ II 1700m)
- Lyskamm, Pennine Alps, E-ridge (normal route) G4 (AD-, RUS 2B-3A 45°, II 840m)
- Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, South-East Ridge G4-5 (AD- II 1600m)
- Barre des Ecrins, Ecrins Massif, NW Ridge G4 (PD+ 40°, II 1060m)
- Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, N Face & W Ridge (normal route) G4 (III PD III/AI1(40°), II+ 1840m)
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, West Flank G4 (AD III- 1650m)
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, South Ridge G4 (AD)
- Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, Westflanke & Nordwestgrat G4-5 (AD 50-55°,III 650m)
- Großes Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, West Ridge from Ewigschneefeld G4-5 (AD+ 1600m)
- Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Ortler Group, East Flank G4 (I-II, 45° 650m)
- Mönch, Bernese Alps, South-West Ridge G4 (II PD/AD- III,45° 650m)
- Mont Blanc , Mont Blanc Massif, North side "Grands Mulets" G4 (F/PD 40° 1776m)
- Monte Disgrazia, Bernina, NW Ridge "Preda Rossa" G4 (PD+ II+, 45° 1100m)
- Ortler, Ortler Group, ESE Ridge "Hintergrat/Casta di Dentro" G4 (PD+ II+, A0, 45° 1240m)
- Piz Roseg, Bernina, NW Ridge via Agugliouls-saddle G4 (1400m)
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G5 |
(~AD) |
- Aconcagua, Andes, Ruta Normal G5 (F I,40° 2800m)
- Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, "Hasler Rib" G5-6 (AD+ 50°, II1200m/700m)
- Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, WNW Ridge (Westnordwestgrat) G5 (AD+ III 1700m)
- Dent Blanche, Pennine Alps, South Ridge "Wandlügrat" (normal route) G5 (AD III, 35° 850m)
- Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, "Galletgrat" G5/G6 (III AD+ III/AD (55°) II,A0 (III) 1100m)
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge "Mitteleggigrat" G5 (III D IV 615m)
- Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, South-East Face G5-6 (AD+ III 1000m)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, SW Ridge "Innerer Rottalgrat" (III AD III 1400m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, NE Ridge "Hörnligrat" G5 (AD, NZ3+/4 III, A0 1300m)
- Nesthorn, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge (Nordostgrat) G5-6 (III)
- Schreckhorn, Bernese Alps, SW Ridge via Schrecksattel (normal route) G5 (III AD+ IV- 1560m/600m)
- Weisshorn, Pennine Alps, East Ridge (normal route) G5 (AD III, 45° 1570m)
- Wetterhorn, Bernese Alps, North-West Ridge via Chrinne and Gutzgletscher G5-6 (III 1400m)
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G6 |
(~AD+/D) |
- Grand Cornier, Pennine Alps, NW Ridge (normal route) G6 (AD- III 1150m)
- Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwestgrat G6-7 (D IV- 1200m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, SW Ridge "Liongrat" (AD/AD+, RUS 4A/B III, A0 (IV) 1680m/650m)
- Mönch, Bernese Alps, NW face "Nollen" G6 (when spur) (III D- AI2 (65°) 1300m)
- Piz Bernina, Bernina, N Ridge "Biancograt" G6 (III AD III/AI1(50°), III+ 1450m/650m)
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G7 |
(~D/D+) |
- Aletschorn, Bernese Alps, North Flank G7 (D/TD 5-70°, avg.45° 1100m)
- Balmhorn, Bernese Alps, North Flank G7 (45° 1750m)
- Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwand G7 (III D+ 50-55°1100m)
- Grand Cornier, Pennine Alps, South West Ridge G7
- Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, N Ridge (Nordgrat) G6-7 (AD IV- 1200m)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, "Guggiroute" G7 (D+ 50-55°, II- 1400m)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge "Rotbrettgrat" G7 (D III, A0 1500m)
- Lauteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge G7 (D IV 1700m)
- Lyskamm, Pennine Alps, Traverse to the W-summit G7 (IV AD IV/AI1(40°), II 950m)
- Schreckhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge "Andersongrat" G6-7 (D-/D III 1750m)
- Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, North Ridge G7 (AD III/III+ 1350m)
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G8 |
(~D+/TD) |
- Alphubel, Pennine Alps, South Flank G8 (D III+/IV 650m)
- Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, East Ridge (Ostgrat) G8 (V-)
- Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, South Rib "Cresta Rey" G8 (AD III- 400m)
- Ebneflüh, Pennine Alps, North Face "Aschenbrenner-Mariner" G7-8 (IV TD- 50-55° (avg. 52°) 750m)
- Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, East Pillar (Ostpfeiler) G8 (TD- V- 1400m)
- Grosshorn, Bernese Alps, " Lauper Route" G8 (TD- V- 1500m)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge (Nordostgrat) G8 (D+, V-)
- Lauteraarhorn, Pennine Alps, East Rib (Ostwandrippe) G7-8 (D IV 1000m)
- Rinderhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face G7-8 (1400m)
- Schreckhorn, Pennine Alps, NE Arete G7-8 (IV, 50°)
- Studerhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwand (70°)
- Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, SW Ridge "Rothorngrat" G8 (AD+/D IV 1335m/400m)
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G9 |
(~TD-/TD) |
- Dent d'Hérens, Pennine Alps, East Ridge G9 (D IV)
- Finsteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, ENE Spur (Ostsporn) (D+/TD IV+ 850m)
- Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, NE Rib (Nordostrippe) G9 (TD+ IV+ 1000m)
- Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, N face "Lauperroute" G9-10 (TD IV, 55° 1500m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, NW Ridge "Zmuttgrat" G9 (D IV and III, 50° 1200m)
- Mönch, Bernese Alps, N Face (Nordwandrippe) "Lauperroute" G9 (D+/TD V-, 60°+ 1200m)
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G10 |
(~TD) |
- Alphubel, Pennine Alps, West Rib G10 (D+ IV+)
- Bishorn, Pennine Alps, ENE Face G10 (TD- 70+°, avg. 45-50° 650m)
- Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, East Face "Marinelli Couloir" G10 (D 55°, III-IV 1700m)
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, South-East Face G10 (TD V)
- Fletchhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face " Wiener Route" G10 (D+/TD 50-60° 800m)
- Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, Complete SE Ridge "Kanzelgrat" G10 (TD- V 1050m/285m)
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G11 |
(~TD+) |
- Gletscherhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Face (Nordwestwand) "Reis-Etter-Jaun" G11-12 (TD+ 90°, IV 1000m)
- Grosshorn, Bernese Alps, North Face "Feuz - von Almen" G10-11 (TD- V, 60°, avg. 53° 1200m)
- Nesthorn, Bernese Alps, North Face "Welzenbach" G11 (65°, avg. 55° 900m)
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G12 |
(~TD+/ED1) |
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, NE Face "Lauperroute Original" G12 (TD+ V, 55° 1700m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face "Schmidroute" (TD/ED1, IV+/V, M5, AI1-2(55°) 1100m)
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G13 |
(~ED1-2) |
- Dent d'Hérens, Pennine Alps, North Face "Welzenbach" G13 (TD+, 90°, IV 1300m)
- Grandes Jorasses , Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "Walker Spur" (ED1,VI-, A1, 60° 1200m)
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G14 |
(~ED2) |
- Eiger, Bernese Alps, N Face "1938 Route" G14 (ED2 V, A0, M5, AI2 (60°) 1800m)
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G15-G20 |
(~ED3-5) |
- Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face Geneva Pillar "Les Portes du Chaos" (ED2 VI+, A3)
- Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face Geneva Pillar "Symphonie de libertè" (f8a, IX+/X- 300m)
- Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Ghilini-Piola Direttissima" (ED3/4 f7a, A4 1600m)
- Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Harlin Direct" (ED3/4, RUS 6B V+, A3, 85° 1800m)
- Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Yeti" (7c/A0 (5.10a, A1/VIII-, A2) 1000m)
- Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face "Zmuttnase" G16 (ED2/3 VI+, A3, 50° 1100m)
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