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Список эталонных маршрутов

 

 

Категория

Описание

G1

(~F)

  • Bishorn, Pennine Alps, NW Flank, (normal route) G1 (F I 900m)
  • Breithorn, Pennine Alps, South Flank (normal route) G1 (F/PD- 40° 350m)
  • Galdhöpiggen , Norway , from Juvashytta G1-2 (650m)
  • Glittertind , Norway , from Spiterstulen G1 (F/PD- 1350m)
  • Hochferner, Zillertal, via Hochfeiler G1-2 (950m)
  • Marmolada , Dolomites, West Ridge G1-2 (PD 700m)
  • Oberaletschhütte, Bernese Alps, G1
  • Rohrbachstein, Bernese Alps, G1
  • Similaun, Ötztal, West Ridge (normal route from Similaunhütte) G1-2 (600m)
  • Säntis, Central Alps, North Ridge G1-2 (via ferrata 1150m)

G2

(~F+/PD-)

  • Gran Paradiso, Graian Alps, West Flank (normal route) G2-3 (II F/PD- II, II/AI1(35°) 1350m)
  • Grosser Möseler, Zillertal, From west via S Ridge (normal route from N) G2-3 (PD- II 1100m)
  • Grossvendiger, Hohe Tauern, North route G2 (F+ 1100m)
  • Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, NW face (normal route) G2-3 (II PD 45° 1700m)
  • Hochfeiler, Zillertal, SW Ridge (normal route) G2 (F/PD- 950m)
  • Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Blanc Massif, NW Face (normal route) G2-3 (II PD- 40° 700m)
  • Monte Leone, Central Alps, S Ridge (normal route) G2 (F II 700m or 1500m)
  • Mount Hood , Cascades, South Side "Palmer Glacier" G2 (II 35° 1600m)
  • Store Ringstind, Norway, G2-3 (45° 1320m)
  • Store Smørstabbtind, Norway, North Ridge (PD 40° 950m)
  • Storebjørn , Norway , from Smørstabbreen via North Flank G2-3 (PD 40-45° 950m)
  • Strahlhorn, Pennine Alps, Adler Pass & West Ridge (normal route from Britannia hut) G2 (F+/PD 1150m)
  • Watzmann, Bavarian Alps, traverse G2 (II, via ferrata 2500m)
  • Wildhorn, Bernese Alps, from Wildhornhütte G2 (1540m)
  • Wildstrubel, Bernese Alps, from Lämmernhütte G2 (1000m)
  • Zugspitze, Bavarian Alps, NE Ridge (Bavarain normal route via Höllental) G2 (F+ via ferrata C, 2200m)

G3

(~PD)

  • Aiguille d'Argentiére, Mont Blanc Massif, SW side "Milieu Glacier" (normal route) G3 (II PD+ 50° 1200m)
  • Aletchorn, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge from Mittelaletschbiwak G3-4 (II PD I-II, 40° 1200m)
  • Finsteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, SW Face & NW Ridge (normal route) G3-4 (PD, RUS 2A II,35° 1226m)
  • Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, SE Ridge (Südostgrat) G3-4 (PD II 750m)
  • Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, via Grünegghorn (normal route) G3-4 (II PD+/AD- 40° III 1200m)
  • Grossglockner, Hohe Tauern, Normal Route G3 (PD- 35°, II 1700m/350m)
  • Hoher Dachstein, Dachstein, NE Face "Felsensteig & Randkluftsteig" G3 (via ferrata B, II)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, normal route from Rottalsattel G3-4 (II PD+, RUS 2B-3A 40-50°, II 850m)
  • Mönch, Bernese Alps, South-East Ridge G3 (II PD+, RUS 2A II, II/AI1(45°) 650m)
  • Mount Rainier , Cascades, Emmons Glacier G3 (II 40° 10.000')
  • Piz Buin, Silvretta, West Ridge (normal route from Bielerhöhe) G3 (F+ I+ 1280m)
  • Piz Palü, Bernina, West Ridge (normal route) G3-4 (F/PD, 40° 950m)

G4

(~PD+/AD-)

  • Aletschhorn, Bernese Alps, Southwest Ridge G4 (PD/PD+ II 1700m)
  • Lyskamm, Pennine Alps, E-ridge (normal route) G4 (AD-, RUS 2B-3A 45°, II 840m)
  • Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, South-East Ridge G4-5 (AD- II 1600m)
  • Barre des Ecrins, Ecrins Massif, NW Ridge G4 (PD+ 40°, II 1060m)
  • Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, N Face & W Ridge (normal route) G4 (III PD III/AI1(40°), II+ 1840m)
  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, West Flank G4 (AD III- 1650m)
  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, South Ridge G4 (AD)
  • Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, Westflanke & Nordwestgrat G4-5 (AD 50-55°,III 650m)
  • Großes Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, West Ridge from Ewigschneefeld G4-5 (AD+ 1600m)
  • Königsspitze (Gran Zebru), Ortler Group, East Flank G4 (I-II, 45° 650m)
  • Mönch, Bernese Alps, South-West Ridge G4 (II PD/AD- III,45° 650m)
  • Mont Blanc , Mont Blanc Massif, North side "Grands Mulets" G4 (F/PD 40° 1776m)
  • Monte Disgrazia, Bernina, NW Ridge "Preda Rossa" G4 (PD+ II+, 45° 1100m)
  • Ortler, Ortler Group, ESE Ridge "Hintergrat/Casta di Dentro" G4 (PD+ II+, A0, 45° 1240m)
  • Piz Roseg, Bernina, NW Ridge via Agugliouls-saddle G4 (1400m)

G5

(~AD)

  • Aconcagua, Andes, Ruta Normal G5 (F I,40° 2800m)
  • Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, "Hasler Rib" G5-6 (AD+ 50°, II1200m/700m)
  • Aletchhorn, Bernese Alps, WNW Ridge (Westnordwestgrat) G5 (AD+ III 1700m)
  • Dent Blanche, Pennine Alps, South Ridge "Wandlügrat" (normal route) G5 (AD III, 35° 850m)
  • Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, "Galletgrat" G5/G6 (III AD+ III/AD (55°) II,A0 (III) 1100m)
  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge "Mitteleggigrat" G5 (III D IV 615m)
  • Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, South-East Face G5-6 (AD+ III 1000m)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, SW Ridge "Innerer Rottalgrat" (III AD III 1400m)
  • Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, NE Ridge "Hörnligrat" G5 (AD, NZ3+/4 III, A0 1300m)
  • Nesthorn, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge (Nordostgrat) G5-6 (III)
  • Schreckhorn, Bernese Alps, SW Ridge via Schrecksattel (normal route) G5 (III AD+ IV- 1560m/600m)
  • Weisshorn, Pennine Alps, East Ridge (normal route) G5 (AD III, 45° 1570m)
  • Wetterhorn, Bernese Alps, North-West Ridge via Chrinne and Gutzgletscher G5-6 (III 1400m)

G6

(~AD+/D)

  • Grand Cornier, Pennine Alps, NW Ridge (normal route) G6 (AD- III 1150m)
  • Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwestgrat G6-7 (D IV- 1200m)
  • Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, SW Ridge "Liongrat" (AD/AD+, RUS 4A/B III, A0 (IV) 1680m/650m)
  • Mönch, Bernese Alps, NW face "Nollen" G6 (when spur) (III D- AI2 (65°) 1300m)
  • Piz Bernina, Bernina, N Ridge "Biancograt" G6 (III AD III/AI1(50°), III+ 1450m/650m)

G7

(~D/D+)

  • Aletschorn, Bernese Alps, North Flank G7 (D/TD 5-70°, avg.45° 1100m)
  • Balmhorn, Bernese Alps, North Flank G7 (45° 1750m)
  • Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwand G7 (III D+ 50-55°1100m)
  • Grand Cornier, Pennine Alps, South West Ridge G7
  • Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, N Ridge (Nordgrat) G6-7 (AD IV- 1200m)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, "Guggiroute" G7 (D+ 50-55°, II- 1400m)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge "Rotbrettgrat" G7 (D III, A0 1500m)
  • Lauteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge G7 (D IV 1700m)
  • Lyskamm, Pennine Alps, Traverse to the W-summit G7 (IV AD IV/AI1(40°), II 950m)
  • Schreckhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Ridge "Andersongrat" G6-7 (D-/D III 1750m)
  • Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, North Ridge G7 (AD III/III+ 1350m)

G8

(~D+/TD)

  • Alphubel, Pennine Alps, South Flank G8 (D III+/IV 650m)
  • Doldenhorn, Bernese Alps, East Ridge (Ostgrat) G8 (V-)
  • Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, South Rib "Cresta Rey" G8 (AD III- 400m)
  • Ebneflüh, Pennine Alps, North Face "Aschenbrenner-Mariner" G7-8 (IV TD- 50-55° (avg. 52°) 750m)
  • Gross Grünhorn, Bernese Alps, East Pillar (Ostpfeiler) G8 (TD- V- 1400m)
  • Grosshorn, Bernese Alps, " Lauper Route" G8 (TD- V- 1500m)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, NE Ridge (Nordostgrat) G8 (D+, V-)
  • Lauteraarhorn, Pennine Alps, East Rib (Ostwandrippe) G7-8 (D IV 1000m)
  • Rinderhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face G7-8 (1400m)
  • Schreckhorn, Pennine Alps, NE Arete G7-8 (IV, 50°)
  • Studerhorn, Bernese Alps, Nordwand (70°)
  • Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, SW Ridge "Rothorngrat" G8 (AD+/D IV 1335m/400m)

G9

(~TD-/TD)

  • Dent d'Hérens, Pennine Alps, East Ridge G9 (D IV)
  • Finsteraarhorn, Bernese Alps, ENE Spur (Ostsporn) (D+/TD IV+ 850m)
  • Gross Fiescherhorn, Bernese Alps, NE Rib (Nordostrippe) G9 (TD+ IV+ 1000m)
  • Jungfrau, Bernese Alps, N face "Lauperroute" G9-10 (TD IV, 55° 1500m)
  • Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, NW Ridge "Zmuttgrat" G9 (D IV and III, 50° 1200m)
  • Mönch, Bernese Alps, N Face (Nordwandrippe) "Lauperroute" G9 (D+/TD V-, 60°+ 1200m)

G10

(~TD)

  • Alphubel, Pennine Alps, West Rib G10 (D+ IV+)
  • Bishorn, Pennine Alps, ENE Face G10 (TD- 70+°, avg. 45-50° 650m)
  • Dufourspitze, Pennine Alps, East Face "Marinelli Couloir" G10 (D 55°, III-IV 1700m)
  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, South-East Face G10 (TD V)
  • Fletchhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face " Wiener Route" G10 (D+/TD 50-60° 800m)
  • Zinalrothorn, Pennine Alps, Complete SE Ridge "Kanzelgrat" G10 (TD- V 1050m/285m)

G11

(~TD+)

  • Gletscherhorn, Bernese Alps, NW Face (Nordwestwand) "Reis-Etter-Jaun" G11-12 (TD+ 90°, IV 1000m)
  • Grosshorn, Bernese Alps, North Face "Feuz - von Almen" G10-11 (TD- V, 60°, avg. 53° 1200m)
  • Nesthorn, Bernese Alps, North Face "Welzenbach" G11 (65°, avg. 55° 900m)

G12

(~TD+/ED1)

  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, NE Face "Lauperroute Original" G12 (TD+ V, 55° 1700m)
  • Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face "Schmidroute" (TD/ED1, IV+/V, M5, AI1-2(55°) 1100m)

G13

(~ED1-2)

  • Dent d'Hérens, Pennine Alps, North Face "Welzenbach" G13 (TD+, 90°, IV 1300m)
  • Grandes Jorasses , Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "Walker Spur" (ED1,VI-, A1, 60° 1200m)

G14

(~ED2)

  • Eiger, Bernese Alps, N Face "1938 Route" G14 (ED2 V, A0, M5, AI2 (60°) 1800m)

G15-G20

(~ED3-5)

  • Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face Geneva Pillar "Les Portes du Chaos" (ED2 VI+, A3)
  • Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face Geneva Pillar "Symphonie de libertè" (f8a, IX+/X- 300m)
  • Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Ghilini-Piola Direttissima" (ED3/4 f7a, A4 1600m)
  • Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Harlin Direct" (ED3/4, RUS 6B V+, A3, 85° 1800m)
  • Eiger, Bernes Alps, N Face "Yeti" (7c/A0 (5.10a, A1/VIII-, A2) 1000m)
  • Matterhorn, Pennine Alps, North Face "Zmuttnase" G16 (ED2/3 VI+, A3, 50° 1100m)
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