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Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar
Lenin peak (7134 m).
2.4. Routes, Base camps.
Routes to the peak of Lenin.
Probably, many alpinists think that the more ascents are made to the summit, the easier of access the mountain is. But this statement is erroneous and even dangerous.
“Onion field”
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“Onion field”
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On the one hand, the Peak of Lenin is really one of the most accessible summits higher than 7000 m on the Earth concerning approaches to it. The character of the ascent doesn’t require using difficult technical alpinistic devices and meteorological conditions are favorable in most cases. But nevertheless the history of ascents to the Peak of Lenin knows unsuccessful attempts.
Base Camp a little bit lower than
International Alpinistic Center.
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Unsuccessful attempts have to be connected with bad weather, low content of oxygen, low temperatures, and, partly, insufficient preparedness of the teams themselves. Snow slopes of the Peak of Lenin from the South as well as from the North can be dangerous for avalanches.
18 routes have been passed to the Peak of Lenin. 9 of them were made on the Northern side and 9 – on the Southern side of the Peak. The most popular routes start from the valley Achik-Tash (the Alai valley), where former International Alpinistic Center was located.
The beginning of almost all the routes from the North the Base Camp (BC), situated on the “Onion field” or a little bit lower – on the “Field of edelweiss”.
The International Alpinistic Center is closed nowadays, but sometimes rare groups of alpinists stay there. Earth road goes up to the “Onion field” 93800 m), where the path, leading to the first high-altitude camp, begins. Base camps of many expeditions are located here from July to August every year.
In the Base camp it is possible to buy gas, some provision, engage a porter or a horse for carrying cargos, and have supper in extemporaneous canteens in yurts.
Routes to the Peak of Lenin from the North
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Certainly, all the services are more expensive there than downwards. For example, one gas-cylinder for high-altitude camps can come to more than 6$, and breakfast for one person costs about 5$. But it is always possible to bargain.
In general, “Onion field” is rather interesting place, where different alpinists from different countries can meet together. The entire field is covered with tents and yurts, and when the weather is fine you can feel cosy there.
Below you can find the list of routes with deion of direction of the first ascents, surname of the leader and year of the ascent.
1. Via the rock of Lipkin, along the Northern edge. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, counterfort, rock of Lipkin.
2. Via the rock of Lipkin, above the icefall with going out to the western edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier.
3. Traverse from the West to the East via the peak Razdelnaya and descent along the rock of Lipkin. According to the classifier: Razdelnaya – Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, traverse.
4. Through the pass Krilenko and descent along the rock of Lipkin. It is not mentioned in the classifier.
5. From the North “straight forward”. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow, from the North “straight forward”.
6. Via the summit “5547” to the Eastern edge. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a combined along the Northern edge via the rocky outcrop (complex).
7. From the canyon Tashkugei, to the summit Razdelnaya (6148) with descent along the rock of Lipkin. According to the classifier: 5100 – Peak of Lenin 5a combined traverse.
8. From the circus of the glacier of Lenin the Eastern along the highest, from the pass of Krilenko, edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier.
9. From the circus of the glacier of Lenin the Eastern along the second from the pass of Krilenko, edge. It is not mentioned in the classifier.
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K. Chernuha, (USSR, 1934)
V. Racek (USSR, 1955)
V. Kovalev (USSR, 1954)
V. Cheredova (USSR, 1960)
Y. Arkin (USSR, 1960)
Y. Skurlatov (USSR, 1967)
N. Shabanova (USSR, 1970)
R. Benua (France, 1974)
S. Duog (Great Britain, 1974)
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Routes to the Peak of Lenin from the South.
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Starting of all the routes from the South is the Base camp on the moraine of the glacier Octiabrsky (4200). In the past an earth road led to the BC. Unfortunately, we haven’t actual information about the state of the road.
From the BC further way lies along the glacier Octiabrsky up to the pass of Trade Unions (5200) in the edge Zulumart, further there is descent to the glacier Big Saukdara to the Southern slopes of the Peak of Lenin. Routes from the South are visited very rarely. Having turned from the Pamir high way you can’t figure on meeting with people and even more on the help in this region.
Below you can find the list of routes with deion of direction of the first ascents, surname of the leader and year of the ascent.
1. Through the pass of Krilenko. According to the classifier: Peak of Lenin 5a ice-snow. From the Pass of Krilenko (E. Shneider).
2. From the glacier Octiabrsky via the Peak of Edinstvo (6673). According to the classifier: Octiabrsky – peak of Lenin 5b ice-snow traverse.
3. From the glacier Big Saukdara via the Peak of Edinstvo (6673). According to the classifier: Octiabrsky – peak of Lenin 5b ice-snow traverse along the Western edge. We have no data about the route.
4. From the glacier Small Saukdara via the Peak of Marshal Zhukov (6852) and descent to the North via the peak Razdelnaya (6183). According to the classifier: peak of Zhukov – peak of Lenin 5b combined, traverse along the South-Eastern edge.
5. From the glacier Small Saukdara via the summit “6257”, Peak of Marshal Zhukov (6852), to the pass of Krilenko, via the peak of the XIX gathering of CPSU (5920). According to the classifier: 6273 – peak of Lenin – XIX gathering of CPSU 5b combined, traverse.
6. From the glacier Big Saukdara along the Eastern wall with going to the “Comma”. According to the classifier: peak of Lenin 5a combined along the Eastern wall from the glacier Big Saukdara.
7. From the glacier Big Saukdara along the South-Eastern wall. According to the classifier: peak of Lenin 5b ice-snow along the South-Eastern wall from the glacier Big Saukdara.
8. Along the South-Eastern edge from the glacier Saukdara. According to the classifier: peak of Lenin 5a combined along the South-Eastern edge from the glacier Saukdara. We have no data about the route.
18. From the glacier of Dzerzhinsky via the summit Razdelnaya (6148). According to the classifier (admittedly): peak of Lenin 5a combined along the South-Eastern edge from the canyon Small Saukdara. (N. Yushin, 1969).
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E. Allvein (Germany, 1928) first ascent to the Peak.
K. Kuzmin (USSR, 1955)
V. Nekrasov (USSR, 1964)
V. Popov (USSR, 1967)
A. Piankov (USSR, 1967)
R. Hoyer (Austria, 1967)
O. Borisenok – Y. Ustinov (USSR, 1969)
V. Nazdruhin (USSR, 1956)
V. Grischenko (USSR, 1970).
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