The best Russian ascent of the year 2007. 13 nominees / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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The best Russian ascent of the year 2007. 13 nominees

On the 24th of November, in the evening, from 13 nominees (no superstitions) the first laureate of Russian premium – the analogue of “Piolet d’Or” will be chosen.
The winner will be chosen according to the objective rating: jury of the premium consists of the leaders of the teams-nominees. Each of the leaders votes for the best ascent from the list, but he can not vote for his team. According to the results of voting the winner will be chosen.
Place of action: Moscow, Dmitrovskoe Highway, bld 2, conference hall of the CSRI Atominform (m. Dmitrovskaya).

List of the teams, nominating for the Russian “Piolet d’Or”:

The Himalayas:

1. Jannu 7710 m (V. Babanov, S. Kofanov).
“Magic Pillar” along the Western edge. Alpine style. Elevation changes: 3000 m. VI, WI 4+, average steepness 80 degrees, M5. Duration of the ascent: 8 days, descent: 2 days, approximately 6B.

The Karakorum:
• Great Trango (6237 m), the Southern Tower, route was passed for the first time (A. Mikhalitsin, E. Beliaev, A. Komissarov, I. Loginov) 7-12of July, (the Southern Tower) (6150 m), along the right part of the North-Western Wall, approximately 6B grade of difficulty, passed for the first time.

• Great Trango (6237 m), the Southern Tower, second passing. (O. Khvostenko, V. Arkhipov, J. Glazirin, A. Litvinov, S. Tcherezov, A. Janushevich)
4-16of July, along the bulwark of the North-Western wall, 6 A grade of difficulty, second passing.

• K2. (P. Shabalin, I. Tukhvatullin, V. Volodin, G. Sokolov, E. Vinogradsky, V. Gorelik, N. Totmianin, A. Bolotov, G. Kirievsky, A. Mariev, V. Popovich.)

Route along the Western Wall was passed for the first time.

• Haina Brak, 5 852м (D. Saveliev, E. Korol, A. Murishev, S. Nilov)
18-30of July (Shipton Spayer) (5852 m), along the right part of the South-Eastern Wall, approximately 6B grade of difficulty, the route was passed for the first time..

• Shingu Charpa (M. Devi, A. Klenov, A. Shabunin).
04-24 of August “Never More” along the Center of the Eastern Wall, the route was passed for the first time.
Grade of difficulty: Fr - ABO 2360 m, 7a(6c obligatore), A3, M5, Rus - 6Б , combine. Elevation changes of the route: 1600 m, duration of the ascent up to the top – 21 days.

Pamir:
• The Peak of Engels. (6510 м), (R. Nagaev, K. Ivanov, R. Kirichenko, O. Koltunov, D. Krasnov)
30.07-11.08 Along the central counterfort of the North-Eastern wall, 6B 9the route of Chunovkin).

Pamir-Alai:

Ak-su (C) (5217 m) in winter. (O. Khvostenko, E. Beliaev, V. Gunko, I. Loginov, D. Prokofiev, B. Rodikov).
27.01-04.02 along the center of the Northern wall, 6B( the route of Ruchkin, the second passing).

• Peak Block (A. Korobkov, I. Bobrov, S. Dashkevich, K. Litvinov, R. Ravilov, S. Timofeev)
5-18of March, along the center of the bulwark of the Northern wall, 6A, the route was passed for the first time.

• Peak 4810 (G. Kochetkov, A. Soshnikov, V. Kozlov) August, approximately 6B

Kirghizia-China:
• Peak Kizil-Asker(5600m) (A. Odintsov, M. Mikhailov, A. Ruchkin)
August-September, along the South-Eastern wall, the route was passed for the first time.

Patagonia:
• Torres del Pain (2800m), (A. Seregin, T. Akhmedkhanov, S. Kovalev, I. Pekhterev) 14.01-02.02 Along the center of the Eastern wall (“Golatso”), 6А.

• Torres del Pain (C) + BASE. (V. Rozov, A. Ruchkin, A. Odintsov, D. Provalov, V. Kachkov, S. Krasko.)
Britain route (of the year 1963). 5B, А0-А1, 17 ropes, 2 days.

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