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Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol.

Guidebook
Sokol (sector 1)
P.S.

Left Two 2B grade of difficulty [¹3]

R 0 – R 1: 45 meters long, 5a grade of difficulty. Organization of belay is easy, coming out to the ledge via destroyed strip. Station has to be made on the tree.

R 1 – R 2: 45- 50 meters . Going along the ledge, station can be organized on the tree.

R 2 – R 3: 40 meters , 5a grade of difficulty. It is easy to organize belay station can be made on the tree.

R 3 – R 4: 50 meters long, 6a+. Climbing up along the plates to the big stone (it is not easy to organize belay), when you reach the bolt, you have to turn to the left, it is better not to make the station on the tree as it is not reliable. Station can be made 20 meters after on a small juniper + on your own nuts.

R 4 – R 5: 20- 25 meters , 5a+ grade of difficulty. Station can be made on the tree.

Recommended Equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, standard set of nuts, 10-12 quickdraws, 2-3 big and 2 middle loops.

General impression:

Short route of the second grade of difficulty, requires rather high level of climbing. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 2-2.5 hours.

 

Along the bulwark of the eastern part of southern wall 1B grade of difficulty [¹5]
 ( Brinza – S. Brinza , 1994)

R 0 – R 2: 60- 80 meters long, 4c grade of difficulty. Climb up and to the left along slanting crack, then along the ledge up to an interior angle and along it up and to the left coming out to the middle of the bulwark. Stations can be made on the trees.

R 2 – R 4: 70- 80 meters . Easy climbing up and to the left in the direction of the edge. Station R 3 can be made on the tree, station R 4 – on the edge (on the crosspiece between the edge and wall).

R 4 – R 5: 35 meters long. Easy climbing, at first up and to the right for 10 meters up to the crack then 25 meters to the right up to the tree.

R 5 – R 6: 20 meters long. 10 meters long traverse to the right along the ledge up to the dry tree, and further up and to the left along the crack coming out to the plateau. Station has to be made on the plateau.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, standard set of nuts and cam devices, 10-12 quickdraws, 3 big and 3-4 middle loops.

General impression:

Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 1.5-2.5 hours.

 

Idol 3B grade of difficulty [¹8]
(A. Kuzmitsky – I. Artemov, February 2006)

R 0 – R 1: 40 meters long, 6a, A1+. Easy climbing up along the interior angle up to the ledge with a tree, then climbing up along the vertical crack, somewhere it is necessary to use self-made points of rest A1+, you should slightly turn to the left. Station can be made on the tree, on the juniper.

R 1 – R 2: 40 meters long, 4a. Climbing straight upwards. Station can be made on one of big trees at the bottom of the edge.

R 2 – R 3: 40- 45 meters . Easy crossing the edge, belay can be organized of necessity. Station has to be organized on the tree to the left from the bottom of the edge.

R 3 – R 4: 40- 45 meters long, 5b grade of difficulty. Climbing up and to the left along plates to the system of cracks, then along it up to the vertical wall (be careful, rocks there are destroyed) and across the wall up to the ledge. The orienteer is a very big tree on the ledge. It is easy to organize belay while climbing. Further you have to go to the right along the ledge to the bottom of the lean-to plate. Station should be made on a big stone.

R 4 – R 5: 25meters long, 6a+ grade of difficulty. Climbing up along the right side of the lean-to plate (along the giant crack between the plate and the wall), coming to it, further you have to climb upwards via the bolt up to the border of the plateau. Station can be made on a big characteristic pine-tree in 5- 7 meters from the border.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, standard set of nuts, 2-3 large cam devices and hexes, 12-16 quickdraws, 2-3 lengthening loops, hammers, hooks.

General impression:

Short interesting routes with different types of climbing and belay. The first rope is g 5 grade of difficulty, so the route can be recommended for those, who want to limber up before climb the routes of 5 grade of difficulty situated on the southern wall of the Sokol, or, vice versa, for those who want to test his forces on an easy route with an intense rope of five grade of difficulty. Average time of passing the route: 2.5-3.5 hours.

 

Gift collection 2B grade of difficulty [¹9]
(S. Nadtochy – M. Kashirsky, June 2005)

R 0 – R 1: 35 meters long, 5c+. Belay can be organized on trees on it is necessary with the help of your own equipment. Station can be made on the bolt and on the tree, on the small ledge.

R 1 – R 2: 25 meters long, 5b. It is easy to climb, easy to organize the belay on the trees and own equipment if it is necessary. Station can be made on a tree on a big ledge.

R 2 – R 3: 50 meters long, 5c. Climbing from the tree up and to the left via small overhanging, then along the cracks suitable for organizing belay, you have to turn to the right. Station is to be made on a tree on the big ledge.

R 3 – R 4: 50 meters long. Easy traverse by trees to the right along the ledge. Station on the tree.

R 4 – R 5: 50 meters long, 4c. Traverse along the ledge with gradual rise to the saddle. Station on the tree at the left side of the saddle.

R 5 – R 6: 50 meters , 5c+. Through a small piece of a “mirror” you have to come to a crack above destroyed piece of rock, then to the tree. It is not difficult to organize the belay. Station can be made on the tree.

R 6 – R 7: 25 meters long, 5a. Going to the right along the ledge, then climbing along the crack up to the plateau. Coincide with the route “Unit”. Station has to be made on the plateau on a small juniper.

Recommended equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, standard set of nuts, cam devices if you want or have, 10-12 quickdraws, 3-4 big and 1-2 small loops.

General impression:

Beautiful interesting route of the second grade of difficulty, it doesn't require skills of taking stars from the sky.

P.S. Thanks to the guys from the shop “Glacial period”. They are the people that supported u and helped to publish printed version of the guide-book.

 

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