Angarskaya Wall, route “Acrophobia”. (5A grade of difficulty 160 m 6c+) / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


Подсказка
При вводе Логина и Пароля, обратите внимание на используемый Вами регистр клавиатуры!

Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.

Climb >

Notice: Undefined variable: top_comments in /usr/local/www/mountainru/data/article/mainarticle.php on line 486 Author: Alexander Toporkov

Angarskaya Wall, route “Acrophobia”.
(5A grade of difficulty 160 m 6c+)

If you go from Alushta to Simferopol by trolley-bus and alight at the atop “Angarsky Pass” and turn you eyes to the west – in the direction of the Chatir-Dag, you will be able to see the Angarskaya Wall – unprepossessing triangle and to the right from it a small hill covered with forest can be seen. Along the center of the Angarskaya wall an interesting route is formed, it is prepared for free-climbing and from bottom to the top this route is equipped with bots.

How you can get to the Wall .

From the station you should go according the pointer “Tourist center “ Angarsky Pass ””. Having come to the tourist center, you have to turn to the forest and go along one of great number of paths in the direction of the Chatir-Dag.

The path should cross the power line on CONCRETE posts. This line supplies skiing hoist in the forest. Heading for the posts of power line, you have to come to the hoist from which a wide path cut in the forest goes. Having passed about 50 meters along this cutting, you should turn to the right too a fine path, this path will lead you to the beginning of the route.

There is one more orienteer – near the skiing hoist a small river Angara springs. And if you don't find any paths or roads, you should go in the forest, in the direction of the bridge between the hill Saharnaya Golovka (“Sugary bulb”) and the Angarskaya Wall.

We walked along the forest without any path and all the way from the station to the route took us about an hour. It was a nice walk along wonderful broad-leaved Crimea forest.

Route Itself.

The route goes along the center of the wall bolts are marked with red paint.

R0-R1: 40 meters 6a+ grade of difficulty.
R1-R2: 35 meters 6a grade of difficulty.
R2-R3: 10 meters 6a grade of difficulty, 5meters 6 с + grade of difficulty, 20meters 6b grade of difficulty.
R3-R4: 10meters 6a grade of difficulty, 3meters 6 с grade of difficulty, 12meters 6b grade of difficulty.
R4-R5: 25 meters 6a grade of difficulty, 10meters by feet.

The route goes along plates mainly, sometimes even without any holds. Climbing is even, grade of difficulty –about 6a/6b, with the exception of several key strips. Key strips present overhanging coming out from troughs, ledges – such short boulderings. There are slotted holds on the key strips, but not all of them are noticeable.

Relief of the route is rather poor, so nuts will be useless. In some places on the route there are pieces of moss, this says that when the weather is bad, it can be wet on the wall. The question whether the route can be passed in bad weather conditions is vexed.

14 quickdraws and one station loop are necessary to pass this route. The entire route long is equipped with bolts, average interval between then equals two meters, and maximum interval equals 4 meters . Not all of the bolts are thick, diameter of some of them equals 8 mm . at the stations there two bolts, blocked with chain. There was no chain only on the fourth station. Every 25 meters ring for fixing ropes for descending are hammered in, but they are not reliable, so thin chargeable rope will save you nerves. Helmets are recommended strongly as at the ledges in the upper part of the route there are many removable stones.

Nowadays the popularity of routes, formed especially for pure climbing has grown. Acrophobia is a typical climbing route, formed top-down. I would like to recommend it as the next step after passing route “Balalaika” and “Golubaya Volna” (“Blue wave”) on Kush-Kaya. But I must notice that it is not easy to pass this route “on-sight”. I didn't manage to do it.

о нас