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Author: Lavrinenko A., Odessa
Spirada. Route to the Eastern Tower. 5A (6a A2) grade of difficulty
The place is wild, very few ascents were made to this mount, through hearsay, there is only one route formed. The route itself presents a logical line along the edge. It seemed to be easier, we thought it was 4 grade of difficulty, but took much equipment and didn’t feel sorry for it. As a result we came across about 200 meters of 6a A2 grade of difficulty. Deion if the route strip by strip. 0-1. Climbing up along easy rocks for 5-7 meters, then difficult traverse to the crack, then along the crack, you should round the cornice to the right, then climb along the system of interior angle, come to a big grassy ledge. Station has to be made on your own hooks. 1-2. Traverse to the right along the ledge, then climbing up for 20 meters along easy rocks. Station has to be made on your own hooks or hexes. 2-3. Difficult climbing up along the crack, belay can be organized with the help of hooks, in the upper part of the crack there is light overhanging. Station has to be made on the ledge, there is a bolt. Extension of the strip equals 40 meters, grade of difficulty – 6a. 3-4. difficult climbing along the interior angle, belay can be organize with the help of large and middle cam devices, then you have to come to the horizontal ridge, it is better to make a station to the right from the ridge. Extension of the strip equals 25 meters, grade of difficulty – 5c-6a. 4-5. Along 5-meter long narrow ridge you should come to the wall, further you have to climb up for 10 meters using self-made points of rest along narrow cracks (hooks, relief sky hooks can be used, there is one bolt). Then the relief becomes reach, you can move up by free-climbing. At first climb up along the interior angle, then along the rack up and to the left. Station has to be made in the place where the wall becomes less sloping on your own points. Extension of the strip equals 50 meters, grade of difficulty – 6a A2. 5-6. Up and to the left in the direction of the beginning of the interior angle, then along the angle you have to come to the top. Extension of the strip equals 40 meters, grade of difficulty – 5c.
You can descend along the couloir to the left from the tower. In the upper part of it you will have to climb a little and then go on descending along the screes. |
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