The Peak Gastello – 4240 m / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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The Peak Gastello – 4240 m

Report of the team of Tomsk region about the ascent to the peak Gastello made along the glacier from the North, 3B grade of difficulty. (made for the first time)

PASPORT OF THE ASCENT

1. The Tien-Shan, Terskey Alatau

2. The peak Gastello along the glacier, from the North

Geographical coordinates according to GPS N 42 degrees 16.695’ E078 degrees 25.304’
Start of the route according to GPS N 42 degrees 16.840’ E078 degrees 25.125’

3. Grade of difficulty of the route: 3B, passed for the first time.

4. The character of the route: ice.

5. The climb of the route: 387 m.

The extension of the route: 630 m.
The extension of the strips of the route:

• II grade of difficulty – 150 m
• III grade of difficulty – 390 m
• IV grade of difficulty – 90 m

The average steepness:

• Of the main part of the route – 55 degrees
• Of all the route – 35 degrees

6. The number of hooks we used on the route:

• Rocky – 0 items, including used for own points – 0 items
• Chocks – 0 items, including used own points – 0 items
• Ice – 20 items.

All in all we used own points – 0 items

7. It took the team to make an ascent: 6 hours, 1 day.

8. The members of the team:

• Temerev Ivan – the leader
• Savenkov Andrew
• Pshenicina Natalia
• Kireeva Marina
• Kriachko Maxim
• Zazdranvih Konstantin
• Mitiaeva Julia

9. The couch: Novoselova G.V.

10. Start time: 06:00, 11.08.2006

Time we reached the top: 12:00, 11.08.2006
Time we came back to the Base camp: 16:00, 11.08.2006

11. The company, organized the expedition: “Tomsk Federation of Alpinism”.

Index map of the region

Overall view of the summit with the tracks of neighboring routes. The photo had been made from the summit Ayu-Tor.:
1. Blue track – route of 2 “A” grade of difficulty from the pass of Prizivnikov.
2. Red track – route of 3 “B” grade of difficult

Photo panorama with neighboring summits

The profile of the route

The scheme of the route in UIAA symbols

Deion of the route:

5:20 in the morning we set off from the camp on “sheepback rocks”
6:00 – we were at the bottom of the route – we took special equipment
6:30 – the beginning of the climb
11:40 – we went to a rocky ridge in 150 m from the top
12:00 – we reached the top
13:00 – the descent along the route of 2A difficulty of grade in the direction of the pass Prizivnikov.

I think that it is useful to start the route as early as it is possible because to the left and to the right above the glacier there are destroyed rocks and on the glacier itself there are stones frozen in.

R0 – R2 at the right side of the glacier (in the direction of travel) under the protection from falling stones of the icefall we start the climb. We fix ropes, 100 m, 40 degrees of steep, III- grade of difficulty.

R3-R4 We come to the bergschrund under the icefall. Cross it on the right (in the direction of travel) part and go on the climb, 40 m, 60 degrees of steep, III grade of difficulty.

R4 – R5 To the left and upwards to round the icefall, 40 m, 60 degrees of steep, IV grade of difficulty.

R5 – R6 Upwards along the ice, 50 m, 60 degrees of steep, IV grade of difficulty.

R6 – R7 Upwards along the ice, 50 m, 60-50 degrees of steep, III+ grade of difficulty. The base near bergschrund.

R7 – R11 160 m, 45-50 degrees of steep, III grade of difficulty. Coming out to a rocky ridge.

R11 – the top, 150 m, 35 degrees of steep, II grade of difficulty. Synchronous going along the ridge to the top.

The descent along the route of 2 ‘A” grade of difficulty.

An overall view and the track of the route, the photo had been made from the glacier Gastello from the bottom of the pass Prizivnikov an the 7th of August 2006 at 11:50 a.m.
camera NIKON E5600