The Crimea , rock Zamok (“Castle”)

We'll remember you that in November 2006 a team “Extreme - Team” from Kharkov the members of which were Poltavets Evgeny and Sipavin Valentin passed a new route to the summit Zamok (“Castle”) in the Crimea. The route is located along the central part of the summit Zamok. It is positioned between the routes “Sokoliny” (“Falconine”) and “The first motion of Fantik”.

The properties that define the wall are the presence of verdure in cracks and in the destruction of these cracks.

In comparison with other routes for set of technical difficulties “Khod Konem” is equal to the route “Across the Cave”, and for number of intermediate bolt it looks like the route “Sokoliny”. In general, it is more intensive than those routes.

The strips R1, R2 extend along the system of choking cracks, doing several turnings. On the strip R6 our route joins the Jury Lishaev's route “Across the pine-tree, right variant” and along the long crack it leads out to a ledge, that conventionally separate the wall and the “roof”. The climb along the roof can be realized by classical way that concur with the routes of I. Saveliev “Chapa-Chapa” and “Geniusha-Scherbakova” lying along slightly-sloping rocks of roof to the top.

On passing the route we hammered in only 2 intermediate bolts. The station R1 and R6 are equipped with one bolt, on stations R2, R4, R5 there are put in twos bolts “Kons” (stainless steel, L =60 мм , D =10 мм ). The station R3 was made before us and we haven't changed it, there is one bolt.

On the strip R2 – R3 there are 2 holes for sky-hooks.

In the general, on the route we used the technique of trad-climbing more than technique of fee-climbing. The lovers of self-belaying may like it.

To pass the route it is necessary desirable to have:

• Hooks of different sizes and thicknesses, including “hatchets”

• Stoppers

• A big Gex

• A set of skyhooks

• Hawser or thin sling to run through / hang hammered hooks

Deion of the Route Strip by Strip.

R0 – R1. From the ledge with a pine-tree you should move upwards and to the left along strongly-destroyed rocks to a small ledge with bolt. 25 meters , 60-70º, III.

R 1 – R 2. To the left from the station up to a diagonal black destroyed crack and further along it upwards and to the left. The crack becomes a “grab”. From it to the left and further upwards along flushings and choking cracks across horizontal “sand-glass” to a bolt (you should leave small juniper on the right in 5- 7 meters ). From the bolt upwards along the crack. The station is to the right on a ledge with a small tree, it is made with 2 bolts. 40 meters , 80-90º, VI , A 3.

R2 – R3. From the station you should return back to a flushing and move upwards across overhanging grey “paunch” without visible relief to the holes for skyhook. From them move to a small scour and further upwards along choking crack. The higher you climb, the more monolithic the crack becomes, the better belay became. 25- 30 meters higher a system of cracks appears. You should climb along the right one, up to a monolithic wall with an overhang. The overhang you should pass by the right and come to a big ledge. Along the ledge move to the left to a bolt. The length of the strip – 55- 58 meters . If you have a lack of rope you can make a station on a big pine-tree on the right and then go to a bolt. 55- 58 м (50), 85º, VI , A 3.

R 3 – R 4. From the station to the left along the ledge to a destroyed interior angle. Along the angle to a ledge with bolts. 22 м , 90-95º, VI , A 3.

R4 – R5. From the left side of the ledge along somewhere destroyed and overhanging crack upwards, taking to the right. !5- 18 meters further there is a bolt. From it – 3 meters upwards to the bottom of white diagonal stripe on the wall. Climbing along the stripe to the left and upwards for 10 meters and further traverse to the left across the vertical wall to grey plates with two bolts. 35 м ,85-95º, VI , A 3.

R5 – R6. From the station upwards and to the left to a big vertical crack. Along it up to the ledge 40 meters . The crack is destroyed somewhere. Be careful on coming out to ledge – a lot of stone lies on it. 40 m , 85-90º, VI, A 3. Along the ledge to the left for 20 meters to a big pine-tree. Further the route concurs with the route “Chapa-Chapa”.

R6 – R7. From the pine-tree 5 meters to the left along the ledge, further 5 meters upwards and to the left to a hook passing a bolt under a cornice, pass it by the right and along sloping interior angle come to a big pine-tree. 45 m , 75º, IV

R7 – R8. From the pine-tree 20 meters upwards, then upwards and to the right along plates and interior angle to a pine-tree. 55 m , 60º, II .

R 8 – R 9. Further upwards passing interior angle climb to a diagonal ledge with trees, along it go to a pine-tree. From it to a pine-tree near the bottom of break, leading to a top. 10 m , 75º, IV, 50 m , 55º, II.

R9 – R10. From the pine-tree along interior angle up to a mountain pasture. 20 m , 75º, IV