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Notice: Undefined variable: top_comments in /usr/local/www/mountainru/data/article/mainarticle.php on line 486 Author: Miha Valic Gorski vodnik/Mountain guide

82 x 4000

During this winter and early spring, from December 27th 2006 to April 7th 2007, I managed to climb all 82 Alpine peaks over 4000m high that are listed on the official UIAA. I am Miha Valič, a Slovene alpinist and an iternational mountain guide, and I had set my goal to climb all of them in 82 days. Due to the bad weather conditions I ascended 74 peaks in 82 days and completed the project in 102.


Blaz Grapar climbing on Les Droites

Blaz Grapar near the top of Aiguille Jardin

The idea of climbing all 82 4000-metre peaks of the Alps in a row (possibly in 82 days) has been a thorn in the European alpinists' flesh for a while. In the summer of 1993, English climbers Martin Moran and Simon Jenkins ascended 75 peaks in 52 days - the official UIAA list did not exist at that time yet. Next to attempt this Alpine-marathon in the spring time were Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin in 2004, but were unfortunately stopped by an accident after reaching 65 peaks. In the spring of 2006, the Italians Franz Nicolini and Michele Compagnoni climbed 25 peaks from the list and then called off the project due to the bad weather. I was the first to attempt the marathon in the winter time.


Blaz Grapar on Taschorn ridge

Blaz Stres and Miha Valic on the top of Mont Blanc

The classic routes to the popular 4000-metre peaks are packed with mountaineers in the summer, but the situation in the winter time is completely different. The mountain huts are closed or not taken care of, and the snow makes it extremely tiring to reach them. The combination of a short day, extreme cold, strong winds and complete wilderness gave a sense of magnificent high mountain ranges on other continents. Despite the mild winter in the valleys, there was a lot of snow above 3000 meters and the conditions in the mountains were far from mild.


Blaz Stres on the south side of Mont Blanc

Boris Lorencic on Rochefort ridge

I wanted to connect and ascend as many peaks in the least possible time, so I only rarely chose the easier classic routes. None of the individual ascents I did is considered a top-level alpine achievement. However, I have done some ridge traverses that can justly be treated as serious winter routes. To mention a few: traversing Aiguilles du Diable, Rochefort and Grandes Jorasses, the Mischabel group, Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn, the Brouillard ridge of Mont Blanc… The bad winter conditions and strong winds made even the "easier" 4000-metre peaks a serious challenge. Above all, I had to endure until the very end. Endure 82 peaks in 102 days. It was logistically and physically difficult, but it was mostly a challenge of motivation and psychological endurance. Waiting in a van for better weather and snow conditions could easily be compared to the long days in one of Himalayas' base camps, if it wasn't for the masses of shiny tourists jumping around the parking places.


Gasper Rak on the ridge of Monch

Luka Kronegger near the top of Breithorn

During these months I was accompanied by 15 friends, fellow climbers, who attributed to the success of the project with their time and also finances (in a chronological order): Rok Blagus, Alenka Klemenčič (3x), Blaž Grapar (2x), Luka Kronegger, Boris Lorenčič, Gašper Rak, Tina DiBatista, Miha Lampreht, Matevž Kramer, Tadej Debevec, Vesna Nikšič, Miha Maček, Blaž Stres, Klemen Gričar and Tomaž Jakofčič. There were some others, who wanted to participate, but were unfortunately unable to adjust our timings and the weather conditions. Gregor Sluga was daily providing me with the weather forecast.


Miha Lapreht near the top of Obergabelhorn

Miha Valic on the top of 82th 4000 metre peak Les Droites

The project was supported by: Mobitel, Alpine and Mountain Club Rašica, PZS, Pikapoka, Avantura sport, Dumo, Sidarta, Trek trek and many individuals.


Miha Valic on top of Breithorn

Morning near the top of Monch

But the challenge of climbing 82 peaks in 82 days in the winter still remains.


Rok Blagus on Arete du Diable

Ridge of Taschorn

North ridge of Weisshorn

Rok Blagus on Mont Blanc du Tacul

Shadows on the glacier

Tadej Debevec on Liskamm

Tadej Debevec on the traverse of Liskamm

Tomaz Jakofcic on the Schreckhorn ridge

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