При вводе Логина и Пароля,обратите внимание
на используемый Вами
регистр клавиатуры!
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При вводе Логина и Пароля, обратите внимание на используемый Вами регистр клавиатуры! |
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Author: Valery Babanov Photo: Raphael Slawinsky and Yannick Graziani
Expedition To Karakoram. Pakistan
Two enormous walls in Karakoram have been declared in the climbing permit. Early in the morning on May, 23, we will arrive to Islamabad by British Airways. The first: commercial ascents on classical routes on 8000-ers. The attributes of such expeditions are kilometers of fixed ropes, tens of high-altitude sherpas and supplementary oxygen. The second: ascents on the same 8000-ers, but via technically more complex routes. Opening new routes as far as possible and small teams are preferred to rather bulky expeditions. But recently the attention is being increasingly focused on the mountains of 7000 -8000 meters. For the climbers of creative strategy there is the Promised Land there. Just look at these beautiful towering walls and ridges. All of them are still waiting for their pathfinders. And in fact, how many mountains where the foot of man has never stepped on are in the world? In my opinion, the most interesting and important events in high-altitude mountaineering are played now in this kind of ascents. The desire to keep the element of a challenge in mountaineering forces some climbers to pay attention to the big, technically hard, high-altitude walls. The choice of light style, small teams, minimizing of weight and accordingly increasing speed of ascent are the concepts of big-wall (two - three kilometers) high-altitude climbing that are even more often used and spoken about now. As for me, the technical high-altitude mountaineering became a "tool" that I use to try to expand my own horizon and look hardly further the line that sometimes is named the "limit". Five attempts to open the Southwest face of Kunyang Chhish East (7400 meters) have been taken before. The last one of American duo Steve House - Vince Anderson was in 2006. They had to recede because of technical difficulties of the route after they had reached 7100 meters. «In our opinion, the southwest face of Kunyang Chhish East is such huge and hard as Jannu North face in Nepal. This wall is really one of the great climbing challenges in Karakoram». It does not need to be commented but I want only to add that altitude difference of both walls from the glacier up to their summits makes 2600 - 2700 meters. Base camp is at 4200 meters. As you can guess straight away we will climb in Alpine style, without preorganizing intermediate camps and fixing ropes. Information: www.babanov.com Expedition Sponsors and Partners: |
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