Aladagar. Part1

The Turkish scheme of the region

The orographical map. Central and Southern Aladagar

The scheme of the region

Pass Vostorg (N29, 3101, 1A-graded)

It connects – the left confluent of Aksuat on the East, with the right confluent of the river Edgemis on the West. The coordinates: 37°54,142' N, 35°12,577' E. It was the group under the direction of D. Slavin, that was the first group from Russia, which went through this pass in May 2005.

The Eastern view

The Western view

The pass TNG (N30, 3208, 1B-graded)

It connects the valley of the river Gurmenlic on the North, with the left confluent of Aksu on the South. The coordinates: 37°54,502' N, 35°12,930' E. It was the group under the direction of D. Slavin, that was the first group from Russia, which had passed this pass in May 2005.

The North view, from the pass Bespontovy. 1 – the Eastern saddle of the pass TNG, 2 – the Western saddle, 4 – the way out to the ridge of the road, 5 – the round-up point

The North view, from the point 5

The Eastern view, from the ridge

The Southern point

The pass Bespontovy (N31, 3007, no grade)

It connects the plato Domiki on the North, with the ravine of the river Gurmenlic on the South. The coordinates: 37°55,107' N, 35°12,067' E. It was the group under the direction of D. Slavin, that was the first group from Russia, which had passed this pass in May 2005.

The North view from the plato

The passes of the ravine Northern Demirkazik

The pass N1 (3200, ~2A-graded).

It connects the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the ravine of the right source of Northern Jalik. It is of North – South orientation. It is used traditionally for going to the Eastern ridge of the peak Demirkazik while doing the ascent by the classic variant (along the Eastern ridge). The information about passing it through hasn’t been found. In the couloir of the Southern side of the pass in the beginning of May every year the traces of wet avalanches could be seen.

The Northern view

The Southern view

The avalanche trace in the couloir of the southern side

The Northern view

The pass Northern Jalik (N2, 3260, 2A-graded)

Two parallel and closely placed passes N2 and N3 are connected the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the circus of the right source of Northern Jalik, they are of North – South orientation. The first stated ascent to the pass N2 was made radially from South in May 2002. In the end of April 2004 the pass N2 was gone through from North to South by the group under the direction of A. Lebedev and it was named the pass Northern Jalik. The pass N3 was gone through for the first time from North to South in May 2005 by the group under the direction of D. Chijik.

The Circus of the Northern Demirkazik. Passes N1-N4 are marked with numbers. Red line denotes the general approach to the passes N3 and N4 from the North.

In a small circus of the pass Northern Jalik (N2). To the right there is the Northern slope of the pass N2. To the left there is a long ridge to the pass N3. In the photo 4 it can be seen that the ridge goes to the peak W1

The Northern slope of the pass Northern Jalik.(N2)

The Southern side of the passes Northern Jalik (N2) and Hodgi Nasreddina (N3)

The pass Hodgi Nasreddina (N3, 3260, 2A-2B-graded)

Two parallel and closely placed passes N2 and N3 are connected the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the circus of the right source of Northern Jalik, they are of North-South orientation. The first stated ascent to the pass N2 was made radially from South in May 2002. In the end of April 2004 the pass N2 was gone through from North to South by the group under the direction of A. Lebedev and it was named the pass Northern Jalik. The pass N3 was gone through for the first time from North to South in May 2005 by the group under the direction of D. Chijik.

The view of the ridge that goes to the pass N3 from the North, from the top. It can be seen that the ridge goes to the peak W1. Going down to the saddle of the pass N3 is possible either from the ridge to a small circus straight from the peak W1 along the

A way to a ridge, that goes to the North to the pass N3

A way along the ridge to a pass Hodgi Nasreddina (N3) from the North

A vertical rope in the top part of the Southern couloir of the pass Hodgi Nasreddina

The Southern couloir of the pass Hodgi Nasreddina

The Southern view of the pass Hodgi Nasreddina (N3)

The pass N4 (3460, 2A-2B-graded)

It connects the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the North-Western plato Yedi Goller. It is of North-Western – South-Eastern orientation. The pass is one-side, the main difficulty is a steep couloir of the North-Western slope (from 3200 up to 3460). There is no information about going through the pass.

The North-Western view, the pass is marked by number 2

The Northern view

The Northern view

The summer Southern view from the slope of the peak 3545

The summer South-Eastern view

The summer Southern view from the slope of the peak 3545

The Eastern view from the pass N6

The South-Eastern view

The summer Eastern view from the Southern slope of the pass N6

The summer South-Eastern view

The Western view

The pass N5 (3460, 1B-graded)

It connects the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the circus of the sources of Aksu, it is of West – East orientation. Maxim Kochetcov and Natalya Kilipenko were the first tourists from Russia that went through the pass in May 2004 from West to East. The coordinates of the saddle: седла 37°50,691' N, 35°11,399' E.

The Western view

The Western view

The Eastern view

The Eastern view

The Eastern view

It seems that the saddle of the pass is the single one. It is marked by number 1. The saddle 4 can’t be found in the photos made from the West. Possibly, the saddle 4 is placed in the Western side spur of the watershed.

The pass N5 False (3500, 2A)

The ascent to the pass N5 False

The descent from the pass N5 False (2A-graded)

The Western view of the passes N5 and N5 False (5L)

It connects the circus of the Northern Demirkazik with the circus of the sources of Aksu, it is of West – East orientation. It was the group under the direction of D. Chijik that was the first from Russia that went through the pass from East to West in May 2005.

The ascent is to be made from East. The slope is snow-firn. The slope of it is 25-30 degrees. It is necessary to go up in helmets as stones are falling from the upper rocks. The pass ascension is about 200 meters. There are vertical rocks and steep snow couloirs towards the way down from the saddle. It is necessary to go along the ridge from the saddle to the North and only then go down to the West to a wide snow slope above the rocky fault.

The descent starts along the snow couloir of about 30 degrees (2 pitches of fixed ropes). The belay is realized using rocky juts and hooks. One more pitch of fixed ropes goes bias to the right to go away from the couloir to the wide snow slope. The slope is to be traversed to the right (~80m), then going down to detour rocky faults (~150m). Author: A. Lebedev.