Подсказка | ||
При вводе Логина и Пароля, обратите внимание на используемый Вами регистр клавиатуры! |
||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Notice: Undefined variable: top_comments in /usr/local/www/mountainru/data/article/mainarticle.php on line 486
Authors: Natalia Perlova and Serik Kazbekov, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine Photo: Otto Kurts and Serik Kazbekov
Bouldering in Fontainebleau
It took us 2,5 days to drive from Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine, to Fontainebleau. At night we had rest and slept, and drove basically daylight hours. In total it appeared 3000 km.
Youth, elder rock-climbers, amateurs and professionals are crowding or climbing alone. Say the least it's the paradise for boulderingers. The locals (admirers of this area) are going from one boulder to another with usual pads: clean rock shoes- send- move- to the following, and all of this they do very easy and without a special boulder pad at smart altitude and on not easy routes.
Whether you know that a tradition to climb great boulders in Fontainebleau appeared in 1889. Already at that time people were fond of this kind of outdoor activity: they went in nature's lap, walked in forests and climbed rocky boulders of weird forms scattered everywhere in the forest cheering by friends. All the bouldering climbers need are:br> a boulder crash pad, a small mat (to clean your shoes from dirt and sand directly ahead of start), a chalkbag with chalk, brushes: a small and big on a long stick, an adhesive plaster (to strap your horny fingers) and a bag with rosin (to knock on crimpers and to sloppers cleaning from dust. Climbing in Fontainebleau appeared very unusual. You think that you just can not hold huge sloppers. They will start to work if you find the certain body position. Friction helps very much, but the edges should be cleaned constantly. The problems seemed to us very difficult, and the 8а-graded lines that we saw were just unreal. First time our friends consoled us: you should just feel it! Clean it! Pat it! Set teeth for it! Another important thing - the condition of rocks. They speak that the best temperature for climbing 0 C. But it was +20 and Serik failed to send a well-known problem with sloppers, 7а, (he started it about 100 times ), but in 2 days after a rain and when the temperature was +10, Serik succeeded it climbing in static.
Finally we got in a good shape and Serik made a lot of routes of 7с and 7с +, and I did many routes of 7а and even 7b.
We saved a lot of time due to our friends Natali and Otto Kurts. They were in Fontainebleau not for the first time, knew everything there and bore us a good company. We were incredibly lucky with weather. Basically it was sunny or cloudy, it was spitting for some times. We met Mauro Kalibani and he told that once had being stayed in a tent under a week-rain. We had time to visit several areas:
Bas Cuvier area is one of the most well-known by its lots of classical problems (the most entertainment and loved by public).
People loved in bouldering and mastered the art of climbing boulders attack a problem ingeniously. They consider that they should:
If you do everything point by points you will be able to send.
One rest-day we devoted to sightseeing tour: Fontainebleau palace built and furnished in Renaissance period, royal residence since XII century (huge castle, park and lake). Napoleon Bonaparte named Fontainebleau "La demeure des siecles" (the residence of centuries) in reference to the large variety of architectural and decoration styles in the palace.
We did not see any garbage in the forest. People are walking, climbing, having a rest but do not litter. Therefore the forest is very beautiful, well-groomed and clean. Culture is a great thing! And we were pleased very much with the fact that Sergey Kovalev is on the right course of bouldering developing in the Crimea. And though the Crimea concedes amount of boulders and routes, but we are going fairway. Bouldering has the future! And crowds of bouldering climbers will come to the Crimea as well as in Fontainebleau. We would like to wish all the bouldering amateurs to visit this wonderful place! And the Crimea too :-) ! We owe you my best thanks our sponsors Scarpa, Singing rock, Milo. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||