Qualification

Check out on Mountain.RU: Reports News Comments about UIAA-ICC WORLD Rock-climbing CUP - MOSCOW 2005

Instead of foreword: "Are the lines bad? (Spelling: Fred Uma Cyrill Kohl) - You just do not know how to climb. And do you know how many times I've heard that?"

Sergey Shemulinkin, St.Petersburg

Women. Beginning of the day

Route-setters

Jacky Godoffe

MR: Are the girls climbing how you have planned that? Or in other words everything is under control, Jacky?

JG: Well, yes, almost everything. Always there can be small surprises, but, as a whole, everything goes under the plan. First numbers, not strongest girls are climbing now. They are not able to send all the problems, and that is good. While it's going, as it was conceived. Let's wait for the end of the day and we will see. In an ideal, in qualification there will be the following result: the leaders should send all the lines; "A" group - two ones.

MR: Concerning the present structure of the participants do you think, the strongest girls - Sandrine, Olga - will climb all the problems?

JG: I am sure of that.

MR: First go?

JG: It is possible. But I hope that they could not to do. For my own part these problems is the original test before Finals. The second "block" (bouldering problem) is the most difficult. It's like an inimitable test of climbing level of the participants that will give the answer. It seems to me, it will be rather difficult to send the problems first go. But the girls are very strong.

At men we have somewhat different situation. The matter is that they will climb by two very different structures. And it is necessary to prepare 12 problems. It is difficult "to expect" everything. In principle, it should be a standard situation for a qualifying round: the strongest climbers will send all problems, "weak" ones - two lines. It is not the simplest task.

Climbers:

Elena Shumilova, St.Petersburg:

As for me I met here a lot of new: "edges" , for example, when I competed before they were included singularly. But now at times I do not understand how to climb the problem, to use heels and toes. And, of course, nervous trembling. I feel like somebody is clobbering me. But taken as a whole I was pleased very much. It was interesting.

Everything is well running!

Olga Oshchepkova, (Uma Thurman), Krasnoyarsk (5 from 6)

I think I was lucky a bit. The lines were with long distance moves, very dynamical. The lines for "Speed" were only dynamic: small positive edges, long moves, some huge sloppers. The lines were of the same type.

MR: You compete here in Speed?

O.O.: Well, yes, I keep to climb Speed, but I flirt with an idea to switch to bouldering completely.

Route-setters

Sergey Shemulinkin, St.Petersburg

MR: How long did you set the lines yesterday?

S.Sh.: It was a planned - long day yesterday. We got tired very much, but it was really very interesting to work. And besides we acquired skill. Godoffe has his style and set his lines. For reasons of safety we did not use all altitude of climbing Bouldering wall structures (mushrooms, as we call them) at all. And, if at Russian competitions sportsmen frequently start from sitting position, there is not any such start now.

Yes, the wall structures are high, but at Russian Cup guys jumped from one stand to another.

MR: Girls were afraid.

S.Sh.: Really were afraid? But what you can say then about snowboarding? You will fly without ceremony such mushroom on your board.

Right now I talked to doctors: they complain that they are missing and bored. I asked them: "So, what do you want? Blood?"

Climbers:

Yana Chereshneva, Krasnoyarsk (6 from 6)
16 years, the youngest participant of the competitions

MR: What about your sensations after the first adult cup?

Y.CH.: The lines are very heavy. Especially the fourth, the heaviest. The fifth appeared the most simple. The sixth was easy too. I am very tired.

MR: You climbed this Bouldering wall structures at Russian Cup. Did that give you some experience?

Y.CH.: Yes. The relief is same. But the lines this time are others. Better. Much better.

Venera Chereshneva (mother): In Moscow, at Russian Cup, there were poor-quality lines. For example, in Moscow I did not get the Finals, but here I have climbed in advance of the Russian leaders. All the same it speaks about quality of the lines and their setting. I tried to tell about that, but, certainly, nobody would listen to you and could only say: "You can not climb". It is very difficult to prove that bouldering lines in Russia appear absolutely others as the result.

MR: Yana, the next question is from a series: who do you love more: your mum or daddy? - Who helps more at your trainings ?

Y.CH.: Both of them.

Sandrine Levet, France (6 from 6)

The problems were very nice. I would tell they were more power, than technical. And I climb such strength lines better.

And I liked bouldering wall structures' configuration. They were abrupt enough. I like overhangs.

MR: Was it difficult some times?

S.L.: Two problems seemed me difficult: the third and the fourth.

Olga Bibik, Krasnoyarsk

I do not know. All the lines seemed identical, from the first to the sixth, and not mine. All of them were the same-type with long dynamical moves. They were really hard.

It would be better if route-setters include technical lines too.

Natalia Perlova, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine

N.P.: They were strength lines. I climbed only one problem.

MR: Could you climb better?

N.P.: I've been sick abed with hard flu, and now I do not feel well, only weakness. I just felt my hands unclenched. I think I could really send three problems, but not in such condition.

I more like when the lines are in a variety: strength lines and technical lines. When they are the same it is always not so interesting.

The most interesting competitions turn out when they combine strength and technical lines.

Men. Qualification >>

Portfolio

PERLOVA Natalia	PERLOVA Natalia	PERLOVA Natalia
LEVET Sandrine	BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga
BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga
BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga
BIBIK Olga	BIBIK Olga	OCHTCHEPKOVA Olga,Venera Chereshneva, BIBIK Olga
OCHTCHEPKOVA Olga	CHERESHNEVA Yana	CHERESHNEVA Yana
CHERESHNEVA Yana	CHERESHNEVA Yana	CHERESHNEVA Yana
CHERESHNEVA Yana	LEVET Sandrine	LEVET Sandrine