Qualification. Men

Check out on Mountain.RU: Reports News Comments about UIAA-ICC WORLD Rock-climbing CUP - MOSCOW 2005

Stanislav Poplavsky, Moscow

MR: What about the line's specifics?
S.P. The lines provide some variants of sending instead of one.

Basically, the lines are competent: if you make many superfluous moves you will lose, but if you send precisely and correctly you will win.

Tomasz OLESKY, Poland

Now I am not on game because of poor sporting form: I've had to miss a half-year because of a trauma. And this time I was not adjusted on prize-winning places.

In speed? Yes, I' will run. Why not?

Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg
(5 from 6. The Qualification results are unknown yet, finalists are not determined).

D.Sh.: About ten climbers would get to Final. The second problem should be read from the first sight. Shall I? Really I don't believe. I am a pessimist at heart.

The only thing I dislike is that we are banned to leave the gym mats and turn your eyes. All of them are shouting every time.

Serik KAZBEKOV, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine
(6 from 6)

MR: How do you feel here?
S.K.: O.K. I am calm. Deep in peace.

MR: There was not any surprise for you here?
S.K.: As always at the first starts of World Cup I feel a little shaky. I'm looking round: everybody is such healthy, but I'm weak as water. Then you start to calm yourself: well, all right, they are like you.

MR: Serik, you are also a bit old
S.K.: It goes without saying I am already tired to speak about that.

MR: Is it five minutes enough to send the problem?
S.K.: If to climb first go, then yes. But, basically, I worked at endurance climbing not only bouldering.

Salavat RAKHMETOV, Russia
(6 from 6)

I have sent six problems and got a lot of attempts, two of them were superfluous: once I just did not understand the judge about the line's boundaries: I was told: "You can touch" and I touched.

So, there is a chance that I shall come in nowhere.

Jerome MEYER, France

The man, who "blew the audience up"

MR: Tell us about the incident with touching a bouldering wall structure (Note: according the new rules a sportsman has no right to touch a bouldering wall structure prior to start (except for starting handholds), otherwise an attempt is considered).
JM (sufferer): I agree, certainly, if these are the bare bones of the rules. But they should be changed.

That makes me angry. They told me that many climbers got in such situation and the attempt was adopted. Therefore I consider that we have to begin discussion. That is not only my affair. If the rules are not changed up to the beginning of the next year, what will we do then? Just sit and speak: "Î.Ê., that's good"?

But as a whole, I am pleased. The problems were set in style that I like.

Ludovic LAURENCE, France

MR: You have already competed in Russia. A couple of years ago.
LL: Here it's much better, than in Ekaterinburg. Bouldering wall structures are beautiful, they are made very well.

MR: What about the problems?
LL: I can judge only about my qualification group. As for me the lines seem simple enough. I do not know what the other climbers think about them, but I am satisfied with that. While it's the main thing.

MR: Gallup poll . New rules. What do you think about?
LL: What could I tell? These are the rules, and we should respect them. While it is difficult to get used to them, that is only the second competitions after they were accepted. Time will show. I see only one positive moment: a tall climber has no advantage of his shorter contender (he just cannot touch handholds, located above).

We need some time to get used to the new rules.

Daniel DU LAC, France

MR: What about your first impressions?
DD: Excellent configuration of bouldering wall structures, a clean gym, it is a pity only, climbers have a rest at full-front position. But it is not very important.

Many the technical moments, at the same time the lines are rather strength, practically everywhere you make a move and have to lean it. At first sight that seems, apparently, to do without difficulties, but it appears uneasy to climb by no means.

So I am happy, that I sent five problems and qualified for the final. We take the great plunge tomorrow, today only qualification was.

Corentin le GOFF, French Team Manager:

MR: Your opinion about a history with Jerome?
CL: I can honestly say: It's a silly rule.

Competitions are a game, a show, and, first of all, they should think of participants, spectators. It is not only a history with Jerome; this rule concerns all competitive climbers.

What do I think about my team? I'll tell you tomorrow, after the Finals

Finals >>

Portfolio

Matthias MUELLER	Tomasz OLESKY	Stanislav POPLAVSKI
Stanislav POPLAVSKI	Vasiliy KOZLOV	Rustam GELMANOV
Gabriele MORONI	Gabriele MORONI	Christian CORE
Daniel DU LAC	Ludovic LAURENCE	Italians: Gabriele MORONI ..., Jenny LAVARDA, Christian COREa