Prologue: what is the good for the route-setter is the death for the climber (Russian ethnoscience)
Sergey Shemulinkin, Saint Petersburg

Sergey Shemulinkin

Mountain.RU (MR): What about the plan the event's route-setting is taking course on?
Sergey Shemulinkin (S.Sh.).: There is an interesting system. We have got a plan of the routes and everything is going according the scheme committed to paper. We shared our functions. You just have to speak: "I'll make this problem". And you just make it. Then Jacky comes and all of us throng and try to climb the line. After that we change or leave fixed some details.
The business is going on, we have about 40 lines already ready.
MR: Does Jacky have the last word?
S.Sh.: Yes.
MR: In your opinion is he strict in work?
S.Sh.: It's interesting to deal with him. I thought that he would have been more difficult to deal with :) He, certainly, is very skilled. (Yup, do you know a joke about Godoffe? A man comes to him and asks: "Got any baccy?" Jacky go through first his pockets than trousers looking for a cigarette and says with amazement : "Wah, I am just bags of bones…")

It seems to me the problems that we set for Russian Cup were more cheerful. This time everything is tougher here. Probably, it is to resolve the climbers to do their best.
But it is my private opinion. For the last time I have not put in rock-climbing desired time.
Comparing with the Russian lines that we made it is borne in on me: those climbers that really can climb something will get to Finals. But even semifinal lines are more difficult than ours. I have set the problems of average difficulty, i.e. enough simple.
MR: And what about Mr. Godoffe?
S.Sh.: He set a lot of edges for body tension. It will be interesting to our (Russian route-setter's) experience.
MR: How long ago did you take part at such events?
S.Sh.: Really, long ago. But all the lines are different, Jacky has his own specific, others - theirs...
MR: "With long moves"? Sometimes they grumble at Jacky for his long distance moves.
S.Sh.: On the contrary he speaks every time: "No, this is a long-distance moment".
In my opinion, all that discussion: long distance moves, non-long distance moves … This is bouldering! What does it mean "the long distance moment"? - It is a vexed question. Sometimes it happens this long distance moment a small climber can easier send than a tall one. For some reason this is not discussed. Or the other contention: stretched - non-stretched. There is such thing - Elizarov's device. As far as I know, it isn't considered as a dope. You can extend your extremities on some centimeters.

Jacky Godoffe

The Main route-setter of WORLD Rock-climbing CUP, Moscow stage - Jacky Godoffe (France)
MR: Jacky, you are in Moscow, in Russia, not for the first time. Do you think there are a lot of changes?
Jacky Godoffe (JG): It is my fourth visit to Russia. I was in Moscow (three times) and once was in St. Petersburg. First time it was competitions, but then I came here as a trainer - representative of French combined team. I can see a precious sight of changes! (At this moment I looked at my jeans and remembered all the last 300 meters up to the climbing gym finding the consequences of our prolonged winter and permanent building).
People began to be more "European" and the life in Moscow is more similar to ours. When I arrived to Moscow for the first time, it was absolutely other epoch, completely other people.
MR: Now you work with Russian route-setters' team. How do you find on the past experience of them ?
JG: They are real professionals. I have not been acquainted with them earlier except for Alexey Chertov: we are familiar many years, since the time of our joint participation at competitions. And I'm very pleased to work with such team. We easily find common language discussing on a question of route-setting, we have - with a qualification- a one track mind.
MR: Would you like to give any forecasts for the forthcoming Cup? Whether it is possible "place stake on somebody" proceeding from the problems' character ? I mean that someone more succeeds in power lines, but someone - in technical ones, etc.
JG: Our work exactly consists in setting the problems "for everyone", lines of different character. Therefore it is impossible to predict the result beforehand. We suggest the sportsmen to do all their best, show paces. I cannot name future champions. I recon, that the climbers will win who approve themselves physically, psychologically stronger at the present time.
MR: Is there "a psychological barrier" for the Europeans coming to compete to Russia? I mean the other country, culture, time difference finally?
JG: I do not think so. As well as all sportsmen, they easily adapt for the set conditions, situations.
MR: There are some judgements upon the subject ):) that routes which are preparing here and now, are much more complex than that we have at our domestic competition. And probably it will be rather difficult for Russians climbers to compete. Are they typical lines for any other stage of the Cup?
JG: It seems to me, that the guys more often have worked with lines on difficulty that are longer, but bouldering problems are much shorter, intensive. It is meaningful to draw a parallel with sprint where instant jag is required.
Besides the level of world -class climbers is very high. For a while I have an impression that the problems quite are corresponded the World Cup level.
MR: If you do not mind we become personal. Olga Bibik and Sandrine Levet. For three years they have been grabbing each other (and spectators). Sandrine is difficult climbers to compete with. Could you assess each of them? And their chances for this year?
JG: It seems to me, Olga is stronger psychologically than Sandrine but weaker physically. I think Sandrine is behind a little in technique, Olga is excellent in moves on balance, and, on the contrary, Sandrine wins the power moments. It is very interesting to keep up their struggle, they practically are a match for each other. The last season Olga won some stages. I think, she has good chances for "the Big Cup". She will be a winner but I do not know when it will happen. She lacks something, probably, she has to gain force a little. And that's all.
Only one detail will last a good bouldering climber: he has to show paces right at once.
Each of them can to be a winner :)
MR: And what about men?
JG: Men? There is one climber that impresses me all the time. Salavat! I used to compete with him but he and now is kept near the top-level. In the beginning of this year he did not show the best result, but all the same he is an improbable sportsman.
Or Serik Kazbekov. Russian rock-climbing school should glory in their achievements.
MR: What do you do to keep a good shape?
JG: Just climbing :) . 4-5 times a week. I have luck to do that without traumas (I am touching wood), problems with a back, etc. Climbing is meat and drink for me, I needn't search motivation to do that.

Part 2:Alexey Shalygin and Alexey Chertov about route-setting >>