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Author: Foigel Maxim, Krasnodar New Route in Old Place Dombai Western (4036m) via Southern face buttress, 5B (VI, À1, 1500m), new route
Everyone knows Dombai area. Old kind Dombai… A lot of rocky routes for all tastes and of all levels are laid on every in the slightest degree interesting Dombai’s summit. But it's strange thing: from all huge abundance of the routes there actually no more than third part of them is often climbed. And the reason of that is not in routes and in climbers: it seems a spirit of adventure has left this area for a long time, and that is the way of Dombai that climbers visit it to ascend more and more training routes… Really don't cold beauty virgin of granite rocks entice you any more? Or have you dreamed to lay your own way? Then look around at familiar things under other sight angle and present a life to your new ideas. A lot of the most interesting unduly forgotten routes wait for you and invite you!
Initially our plans included climbing of one fresh route on Dombai Western (6à, M.Zagirnyak, 2000), but the destiny upset our apple-card. This spring was rather snowy, and instead of green grass we trampled snow as in May. Accordingly all the route was snow-covered, moreover the mountain was collapsing pieces of ice and stones from above accurately on all our planned route. Living is high and we did not want to ask for trouble. Miracle! Just in pair hundreds meters more to the right we found a fine buttress lasted through all Southern face. First we were confused a little, that so logical variant was not climbed till now. We didn't like the look of that. However weather favored to us so after a short discussion we started climbing. It is a high time to acquaint readers with heroes of this story: Gubanov Roman (Teberda) - the leader of our team, Eliseev Alexander (Krasnodar), Aliev Rinat (Krasnodar), Foigel Maxim (Krasnodar).
The beginning of the route is a flat "paw" of the buttress, which with gradually increasing steepness rests against a rocky bastion: it is the first crux of the route. Under a roar of falling ice from Zagirnyak's route we approached to the crux. Having decided not to hurry up we set a camp and started fixing the rope. In the afternoon a rain began and we had to stop working on the route and return to the camp.
Within the next two days we managed to reach under the second bastion. Actually this hundred and fifty meter plumb line is a southern slope of the main ridge of Dombai massif and upon a closer view looks impressive. In this place our route and Zagirnyak's route merges together. After breaking trails in waist-deep snow we began to gloomy joke about warm southern faces of Western Caucasus. By the way, though the snow strongly complicated our life, it made all our spending the night rather comfortable. For the fifth day of our ascent weather decided to take a revenge for all previous sunny days. But, nevertheless, this day we summited and were the first climbers ascended Western Dombai this year. Then we descended without any adventures, and by the evening we were at "Ptyshskie" camp site. You can not call our ascent high-speed: we spent five nights on the route. And we would like severe critics to be indulgent. And only the time will show how interesting our route is.
Route Passport Dombai Western (4036,) via Southern face buttress 5B (VI, À1, 1500m), new route Start on June, 13, 2004. Summit on June, 18, 2004. Team's members: Gubanov Roman
Route Description Dombai Western (4036m) via Southern face buttress 5B (VI, À1, 1500m), new route, (F 6b max) Roughly the route begins on the corners located a little more to the right of the place where a flat "paw" of the buttress passes in a rocky massif. It is the simplest way to reach the "paw's" ridge. Overhanging rocks from the left and difficult walls of "paw" from the right get in the way.
R0-R2 On rocks of higher than average difficulty to ascend on the ridge of the buttress. 80m 70 degrees. IV. R2-R8 On the buttress to approach under the first bastion. At R8 it is possible to organize spending the night. 300m 45 degrees. III R8-R9 On a vertical bright red color, wall with small ledges to move upwards to the right in a direction of a vertical crack, very difficult climbing. 40m 85 degrees. VI À1 R9-R10 After the pitch beginning 2 meters to the right into a wide corner. On the corner upwards, then on a rocky site up to the top of a big ledge. Intense climbing, in the top part rocks are washed by falling water. The ledge is climbed on the right. 40m 85 degrees. V R10-R11 Upwards to the right in a direction of a wide corner. Rocks are strongly destroyed. 40m 45-70 degrees. III-IV R11-R12 On platy rocks bypassing an abrupt site on the right, to move under hanging. 40m 60 degrees. III R12-R13 After the pitch beginning to move behind a bend to the left, then, to traverse on a ledge to the left, further climb to the right upwards. 40m 20-60 degrees. II-III R13-R14 To climb on the right side of a wide (not obviously expressed) corner, then get to its left side and climb it and reach the ridge of the buttress. In its average part the corner hangs a little. The corner is well looked through from R10 point. 40m 85 degrees. V R14-R20 On rocks of the buttress to approach to a wide trough. 250m 50 degrees. III R20-R23 Via the right side of the trough to get under the second bastion where you can set the camp to spend the night. 150m 45 degrees. II
R23-R24 to move a little to the right behind a bend from a place where the right edge of the trough deduces under the wall lowering a little and then climb a system of rocky sites upwards to the right. 35m 60ã degrees. IV R24-R25 From a belay station to climb on a ledge to the right, then upwards to a rocky site with a crevice (the crevice is wide and forms a split) very difficult climbing (aid-climbing in places). Further difficult climbing on a system of corners and crevices to a small ledge. 5m 90ã degrees. VI A1, 25m 80 degrees. V
R25-R26 On a five-meter difficult corner on a ledge, then to the right on it and then difficult descent to an inclined ledge. On the ledge upwards on a small shoulder of the ledge. 5m 80 degrees. V, 30m 50 degrees. III R26-R27 From a shoulder to the right upwards on a plate, (it is very difficult to enter the plate), then on the wall upwards. The wall is combined with large blocks of rocks that form cornices and ledges. Intense climbing, rocks wash by water. 30m 80 degrees. V R27-R28 From a belay station on a ledge to the right under a wall with a crevice deducing in an aperture in the sumit ridge, difficult climbing. 20m 80 degrees. V From the tough to the ridge the general direction of movement is to the right upwards heading an obviously expressed depression in the ridge. R28-R29 On the ridge right to the sumit. 400m 40 degrees. III Besides the sites noted in the route description, spending the night can be organized on sites R2-R8, R14-R23, R28-R29, i.e. on the ridge sites of the route, but there is not any convenient place under a tent there, except for R28-R29! |
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