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Author: Alexey Chertov, Kaliningrad

 

"GULLIH" and All, All, All "near the creek"

The main event of the Crimean summer - sending the route "Gullih" that was made in 2003.

After ten days of the super concentration, groans, crying, injured fingers, broken hook, extreme efforts and iron will - and, at last, Evgeny Krivosheitsev put up "Gullih".

From outside everything looked easily and aesthetically. I just want to go and repeat it. Only the reason rescued me from this hopeless invention.

As always Evgeny's climbing left excellent impression.

The entire route goes on crimpers, the most of them are basically inconveniently located and passive. A good bouldering begins directly from the start, the middle part is a bit easier where in a place you can take breath a little before the final effort.

Krivosheitsev estimated the route as 8ñ +.

Jack Krivosheitsev on "Gullih"

Andrey Vedenmeer, Yalta. "Na konya (On a horse)", 7ñ +

Serik Kazbekov and Andrey Vedenmeer tried the line too.


"At Serik's shop"

Serik found its start very difficult.

Vedenmeer and Krivosheitsev added that the route appeared very interesting.

Well, now in Crimea there is a good memory of the outstanding rock-climber - Wolfgang Gullih.

First sender's comments: "GULLIH" was given to me very hard; I was at work upon it more then a week. The main problem was the heat. It was possible to climb only in the evening and if any wind!

Route by estimations of Serik, Andrey and mine - is 8ñ + (Andrey considers that it is heavier than "Matador" (8Ñ +)). But they are hard for comparing, because they are absolutely different - "Matador" is a body-strength route and "GULLIH" - a very much "crimper" route (your fingers devastatingly strain!)"

By the way, a lot of people climbing in Red stone had a hand in setting the route. In fact the efforts of volunteer assistants helped to make a bridge over a pool on the way for the route.

Therefore, if will climb in Red stone, please, throw stones in a pool under "Gullih" and more to the right, there a lot of many other interesting lines can be opened.

Another significant event of this summer - probably, for the first time in Russia the 14-year-old Evgeny Zazulin sent "Chertopolokh (Thistle)" 8b-grade.

Evgeny Zazulin, Kaliningrad
Evgeny Zazulin on "Chertopolokh (Thistle)", 8b

Evgeny hoped this year to send his the first 8à, but we insisted him to try 8b after he had sent first three 8à lines.

And after two days of working mooneyed Evgeny could make his first 8b - "Chertopolokh (Thistle)"! For what he was awarded with extraordinary watch on kitchen and received a pair of bonks on the head for mistakes in the belay from elderly skilled rock-climber Mike Gogol:)

Mike Gogol, Kaliningrad
Mike Gogol's belaying
Mike Gogol on "Vremya Ch", 8à


Evgeny Zazulin, a.k.a. Chayka
(Seagull)


Evgeny Zazulin. Stretching.
Mike Gogol supervises over the process.


Evgeny Zazulin with trainer Irina Chertova.
Trying on rocky shoes. Lean man's weepy.


That thistle given the name to the route "Chertopolokh (Thistle)"

 

It is a very pleasant fact that the level of Russian rock-climbers essentially increased. A plenty of sportsmen, climbing all "eights"-graded lines were noticed. At last the most complicated routes of Red Stone ceased to frighten off the main crowd of climbers.

Rustam Gelmanov, Moscow

I'm very glad for young talent - Rustam Gelmanov sent the combination of routes of 8ñ + "Parallelny Mir/Chertopolokh". I liked his skill to concentrate while climbing, psychological stability, plasticity of movements and a cowboy's hat :

But I was upset this improbable amount of garbage in the area. It looks as it was specially spread from the helicopter.

I really do not understand what does prevent the climbing people to bring it to the nearest garbage tank!

M.RU note: Alexey Chertov- author of "GULLIH" route.

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