|
|
|
|
|
|
Mountain photos - amateur
and professional photos of mountains.
|
| Climb > |
|
Mt. Khimik (Chemist), 3975 m., via the center of North Face Bastion, 5-B (Russian grade)
There is not a lot of time prior to the beginning of 2005 summer season and many of climbers will traditionally go to Caucasus. And as usually the question will be what gorge we are going to? And the majority of climbers will go where beer is cheaper :-)... Some of them are already carelessly filing their "Grivel"s and looking angrily not at the poster with Britney Spears but at photos of Shkhara, Gestola, Mizhirgi or even Ushba... (please, underline as appropriate). The main thing is in a choice of worthy object - rocky walls. Only few people will decide to climb Chatyn that means to change a trunk with gear for galoshes and a quilted jacket in vicinities of Ushba - let this to enthusiastic amateurs. Therefore I want to tell about Mt. Khimik, to be exact about a bastion of this mountain where we have laid a new route of 5-grade just a two hour's trekking from the base camp. It took us six hours for preparation. We planned the line right on the
center of the bastion, but further, during our ascent, we became attached
to the relief that did not allow us to lay the ideal diretissima but
we avoided hard bolting...
In the result the route can be passed by free climbing: there are some pitches of F.6b and several pitches of 5 - 7 meters of F.6ñ: right where we had to organize safe belay station with an interval of 3 - 4 meters using friends and chocks. If you don't want to climb F.6b, you can use an eider, rattle with gear this 3-4 meter sites and finally receive your A2 aid-pitches. In other parts of the route (there are slabs in its central part) you can basically set pitons in deaf cracks. All the stations are bolted. By the way, a loop is visible from the second station. It NOT for rappelling only for belay, but behind it there is a bolt! For the teams unsophisticated in rocky ascents we recommend to plan two days for ascent.... We did not carry out the other tests. And in general, read this report and make your own decision how much time will take your ascent of this route... The descent route heads a little in other side: on Northern Adyrsu glacier at one and a half of hour from Ullu-Tau mountaineering camp via two-graded tourist route. That means you do not return to Srednekichkidarskie camp site where the route begins. Route Description: The start camp is located 30 minutes of walking from Northern Face Bastion of Mt. Khimik on Nizhnekidarskie camp site. R0 - snow slope (35 degrees, 80 m, III- graded). It heads to a rantcluft of 1 m width and 8 m depth. R1 - going off the rantcluft on dressed rocks of 45 degrees, 50m, III-graded.
R3 - from the station upwards and to the left on a small corner under a cornice. Wet rocks, aid-climbing (pitons, fine friends). The plug is sent from the left, there is a crack under the friend between the wall and the plug and near to it there are big edges for hands. Further free climbing on slabby faces to the left upwards in the direction of a big couloir. And then going off directly upwards on a big ledge. Station (a bolt, a piton).
R5 - Further 5 m on the crack's continuation and then on the slab 35 m upwards under the right part (black color) of a cornice. Traverse from under the cornice to the right 5 m up to a crack in it, and then upwards on it to a system of split rocks. Then directly upwards to the beginning of a fissure of 5 m. Climbing it up to a ledge where the next pitch begins.
R8 - Further climbing the ridge and on the right slope of it 250 m up to the snow knife conducting to the ice rise. R9 - On the snow ridge (cornices!!!) under the ice rise of 50 m. R10 - On ice directly upwards the ridge 150 m. R11 - On the ridge 350 m to the summit bastion. R12 - Climbing the rocks to the left to the corner leading to the summit. Descent via tourist route 2B-graded the East ridge to Northern Adyrsu glacier. UIAA route description. 1:2000
|
 |
| © 1999-2007 Mountain.RU Mail to: info@mountain.ru |
|
