The information is given by O.P.Kolesov, Chairman of Federation
of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of Republic Buryatiya

Mt. Veymur, 2280m, 6À, Barguzinsky range, first ascent

Technical data of ascent

1. Barguzinsky range, gorge of the river Ulyun, ¹ 9.2

2. Mountain name: Mt. Veymur, 2280m, NE face, left shoulder.

3. 6A category propounded; first ascent.

4. Character of the route: combined

5. The characteristic of the route:

Extent of route sites:

Average steepness:

6. There were left on the route: Bolts at pitches - 7, bolts - 2.
There were used bolts on the route: 138
stationary bolts - 9 including for aid-climbing - 6
demountable bolts- 1 including for aid-climbing - 1
Total aid climbing devices - 201.

7. Total ascending hours - 47.40, days - 6

8. The head: Kolesov Pavel.
Participant: Gavenko Sergey.

9. The trainer: Kolesov Pavel

10. Starting ascent: 9.00 a.m., 17.02.04.
Summit: 2.40 p.m., 21.02.04.
Returning to the Base Camp: 12.30 a.m., 22.02.04.

Structure of the wall

The beginning of the route

5th pitch

Route description

1. A rocky plate. Complex AID-climbing, using fifi hooks at difficult plate's sites.

2. A not obviously pronounced chimney. Though the steepness decreases it is not easier to climb: we had to keep the same style.

3. A ledge.

4. A complex corner. A snow cornice at the end of the corner represents a danger. We had to accurately bypassed it and racked our brains for making some belay points.

5. A plate with very poor sutface. We had to climb it using fifi hooks, hammering them in the frozen vegetation. The belay is not very reliable.

6. A short slightly hanging chimney with a chockstone.

7. A plate. You can not climb it without fifi-hooks.

8. A plate. Very complex climbing on it for the lack of a reliable relief, and reliable belay. The one thing was stilled us that we could get organized to lead the next pitch. it is very difficult to organize reliable station without bolting in any way on northeast walls.

9. A ledge going to the left. A snow slab that can move down at any moment represents a danger.

10. A long plate: there is a corner from the left side with snow drifts and a cornice that can fall at any moment too. Because of scarcity of the relief and bad points of belay climbing on that plate was very complex. And fifi hooks really helped us very much.

11. A short ledge. We made a pitch at the end of it using a natural relief and not bolting.

12. A plate, free climbed.

13. A short corner, AID climbed.

14. A plate, climbed using basically fifi hooks, hammering them on pass.

15. A short corner, scarcity of a rocky relief does not allow to belay safely.

16. A long ledge. Pitches- in the beginning and at the end of it. At the end of the ledge - a camp. It appeared very convenient, protected by cornices and a wall from a wind.

17. An abrupt short plate with grassy sites.

18. A vertical rocky corner.

19. A narrow abrupt inclined ledge, free climbed. This ledge got us for a rocky bastion from the other side.

20. A complex pitch going on the wall, consisting of not obvious cracks and corners. All the same problems with reliable points of belay and some psychological strain. We had to climb only with the help of fifi hooks. We got organised to lead the next pitch on a rocky ridge.

21. A snow-rocky ridge sixty meters long. A snow slab is a danger to climbers.

22. A complex pitch on not obviously expressed corner. Belaying is complicated with scarcity of the relief. We climbed it in masterly fashion using fifi hooks and organised a pitch using a bolt.

23. An abrupt short couloir with a snow cornice in the end.

24. A rocky corner, AID climbed. It led us on a summit ridge.

25. A rocky-snow crest two hundred meters long does not cause special difficulties. Simultaneous belay.

Descent on a route of ascent. Though there are also other easier ways to descend.

It is blowing a gale constantly because of the pass, standing in the way of the wind blowing directly from Baikal, is very low. We dug a cave right under the wall to accelerate the ascent because of skeletons of tents do not hold strong wind gusts. And a cave is a unique decision in this strange place.

We named as a joke this place as a wind tunnel.

Pitch 8th.

Convenient bivvy on a ledge.

Head of the team Kolesov Pavel.	Climber Gavenko Sergey	On descent route
Combined team of Buryatiya on mountaineering. Gavenko S., Zurbulaev S., Schelkovnikov A, Scherbakov E, Ryabuzov N, Kolesov P., Kusnetsov Å.