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The Crimea. Results. Salavat Rakhmetov.


After a three-year break I appeared in the Crimea again. I could barely recognize Red Stone - such plenty of routes, renewed bolts, platforms. It looks like Red Stone got new haircut: it has got completely new shape. There is rather appreciable difference after replacement old bolts on new ones on many routes: the bolts are located more competently and they are where it is necessary them to be. It is convenient to clip quickdraws. To tell the truth, for such short time I did not have time to try all routes because did not expect such plenty of new routes on new walls. I'd like the western wall very much: the routes are strongly differ on structure from the routes of the southern side. They are more technical and demand a shrewd coordination. The impression that you climb on completely other rock is appeared.

 

Nikita
As to the routes Nikita is not strongly changed, but bolts are located in convenient places, it became more safe to climb (for example, on Eskadron (Squadron) the third bolt stands there where it should stand.) I was impressed by amount of people: as if I appeared in Arko in September. I had even to queue on simple routes. As a rule, I limber up on 7-graded routes, but once because of a rain I had to do that on Eskadron (Squadron), 8à, a unique dry route.

From new routes on Red Stone I flashed "Flatter", 8à +, and I enjoyed "Mozhet byt (May be) ", 7b very much. It's competently made, with maximal use of relief and opportunities of the rock, without any artificial hooks transforming a rock in a simulator. I do not speak about that for no particular reason, but I want to inform an idea, that rocks need to be used not as a simulator. It is necessary to supplement a relief, instead of bolting new holes or to glue stones as it was made on Koshka (Cat) by Max Ozhiganov during Moscow Championship (Max, do not take offence at, but it is the truth). It is very serious question that needs to be discussed with representatives of Moscow. The main idea: we have to discover new rocks, to bolt new natural lines without AID climbing for carrying out competitions. Route-makers don't like when their routes "are altered and "be improved".

Unfortunately, I was in Crimea not for a long time, but I had time to be recharged by the Crimean energy. Crimea did not want to let me go at all: bridges were blown up, roads were blocked, missile flew, and instead of one day, I reached Moscow by train for two days.

 

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